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CarterKraft said:
It can't actually be 210 at the inlet that's the lack of flow causing the coolant to saturate.
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Engine temp 230° is taken from the head which should be the hottest since it’s next to the exhaust ports.
Internal water temp is going to be lower as it is absorbing the head heat.
210° was the water entering the radiator which makes sense as it should be lower than the head temp.
 
Rangerrod said:
Since you’re a buggy guy and seen a bunch of rear mounted radiators and LS builds. What the best way to burp the coolant system?
Click to expand...
Vaccum fill kit.
Solved all the problems.

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Are they double pass cross flow? Ports on same side so water flows through half of radiator then moves to side tank and onto second half and flows back.
Restriction is twice as much.
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He's had both. No problems with either.
 
Pressure test was a fail.
Core leaked from the braised bars.
Driver tank, back side had no leaks.
Driver tank, front had one leak where the tube/bar was lower than the other bars. Visual identifiable that it was not properly aligned before brazing.
Passenger tank had at least 7 leaks between front and back. Most were not visual identifiable defects in the core.
This is the third core from Triton that has leaked. Two on the buggy now and the new replacement.
Apparently core leaks are pretty common due the quality of the core. They leak between the brazed bars and spacers.
Triton suggested alumaseal but I don't want that crap in an other wise leak free system.
My friend who is running a $1000 plus CBR also has a leak at the core on what was a new radiator.
Not really excited to try welding up or buying another one of these type of radiators.
Right now I could try a Griffin radiator which is lighter duty.
I am leaning towards using a Thermal Transfer hydraulic oil cooler which is like the Triton and CBR and most of the higher end manufactures using bar and plate style cores. The difference is Thermal Transfer QC's and warranties their products. They are also rated to 250PSI. Problem is they don't have a dual fan sized core that is small enough so I would have to do some major fab to make it all fit and new longer hoses. Most likely going this route as I am done with the crap quality. It would also be nice to have a stock part that bolts in rather than a custom one off. Thermal Transfer coolers are available all over from hydraulic shops.
 
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HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Pressure test was a fail.
Core leaked from the braised bars.
Driver tank, back side had no leaks.
Driver tank, front had one leak where the tube/bar was lower than the other bars. Visual identifiable that it was not properly aligned before brazing.
Passenger tank had at least 7 leaks between front and back. Most were not visual identifiable defects in the core.
This is the third core from Triton that has leaked. Two on the buggy now and the new replacement.
Apparently core leaks are pretty common due the quality of the core. They leak between the brazed bars and spacers.
Triton suggested alumaseal but I don't want that crap in an other wise leak free system.
My friend who is running a $1000 plus CBR also has a leak at the core on what was a new radiator.
Not really excited to try welding up or buying another one of these type of radiators.
Right now I could try a Griffin radiator which is lighter duty.
I am leaning towards using a Thermal Transfer hydraulic oil cooler which is like the Triton and CBR and most of the higher end manufactures using bar and plate style cores. The difference is Thermal Transfer QC's and warranties their products. They are also rated to 250PSI. Problem is they don't have a dual fan sized core that is small enough so I would have to do some major fab to make it all fit and new longer hoses. Most likely going this route as I am done with the crap quality. It would also be nice to have a stock part that bolts in rather than a custom one off. Thermal Transfer coolers are available all over from hydraulic shops.
Click to expand...
That's pretty shitty.

I tried to determine where to get a quality core when I was investing radiators and intercoolers and didn't really figure out a heiarchy.

Can you rebraze the bars/leaks? Probably just turn it into a pile of scrap (if I did it).
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Pressure test was a fail.
Core leaked from the braised bars.
Driver tank, back side had no leaks.
Driver tank, front had one leak where the tube/bar was lower than the other bars. Visual identifiable that it was not properly aligned before brazing.
Passenger tank had at least 7 leaks between front and back. Most were not visual identifiable defects in the core.
This is the third core from Triton that has leaked. Two on the buggy now and the new replacement.
Apparently core leaks are pretty common due the quality of the core. They leak between the brazed bars and spacers.
Triton suggested alumaseal but I don't want that crap in an other wise leak free system.
My friend who is running a $1000 plus CBR also has a leak at the core on what was a new radiator.
Not really excited to try welding up or buying another one of these type of radiators.
Right now I could try a Griffin radiator which is lighter duty.
I am leaning towards using a Thermal Transfer hydraulic oil cooler which is like the Triton and CBR and most of the higher end manufactures using bar and plate style cores. The difference is Thermal Transfer QC's and warranties their products. They are also rated to 250PSI. Problem is they don't have a dual fan sized core that is small enough so I would have to do some major fab to make it all fit and new longer hoses. Most likely going this route as I am done with the crap quality. It would also be nice to have a stock part that bolts in rather than a custom one off. Thermal Transfer coolers are available all over from hydraulic shops.
Click to expand...
I ran a Griffin engine rad for the longest time with 0 problems.
I am putting another Griffin back in.

My oil cooler is a Triton core. This makes me worried now.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Pressure test was a fail.
Core leaked from the braised bars.
Driver tank, back side had no leaks.
Driver tank, front had one leak where the tube/bar was lower than the other bars. Visual identifiable that it was not properly aligned before brazing.
Passenger tank had at least 7 leaks between front and back. Most were not visual identifiable defects in the core.
This is the third core from Triton that has leaked. Two on the buggy now and the new replacement.
Apparently core leaks are pretty common due the quality of the core. They leak between the brazed bars and spacers.
Triton suggested alumaseal but I don't want that crap in an other wise leak free system.
My friend who is running a $1000 plus CBR also has a leak at the core on what was a new radiator.
Not really excited to try welding up or buying another one of these type of radiators.
Right now I could try a Griffin radiator which is lighter duty.
I am leaning towards using a Thermal Transfer hydraulic oil cooler which is like the Triton and CBR and most of the higher end manufactures using bar and plate style cores. The difference is Thermal Transfer QC's and warranties their products. They are also rated to 250PSI. Problem is they don't have a dual fan sized core that is small enough so I would have to do some major fab to make it all fit and new longer hoses. Most likely going this route as I am done with the crap quality. It would also be nice to have a stock part that bolts in rather than a custom one off. Thermal Transfer coolers are available all over from hydraulic shops.
Click to expand...


Bar/plate coolers typically have much higher air side restriction than tube/fin. Custom guys like it as they can just saw them down and weld tanks on. They are not using it because it is better. I don't know if the strength of that type of core is needed, probably depends on how you want to mount it.
 
Rangerrod said:
Since you’re a buggy guy and seen a bunch of rear mounted radiators and LS builds. What the best way to burp the coolant system?
Click to expand...
best I have found on the trail, is to get the rad as the highest point, and the literally nurse or pump the lines by hand at the elbows...
 
CarterKraft said:
Do they actually make the cores?
Click to expand...
Yes.

Capture.JPG
 
mobil1syn said:
so did triton just say, thats just how it is with no input on replacement?
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The cores I have now were used even though they leaked in their prior life, just didn't know it. I was advised to use a sealant. Didn't want to.
I paid for the replacement core after it was shipped not knowing if I was going to be charged or not. I think it was $225 plus $50 shipping.
No reply from Triton on the new leaking core.
 
American Cooling Solutions makes the same bar style coolers with or without fans.
1 year warranty

Looks just like the Thermal Transfer but at a lower price. The OC 72 is $715 shipped on ebay. $650 on their website not including shipping. That core size is good for two 16" Spals 16"x32"

Looking at the OC72/DC50 with a shroud but minus the fans as I already have them. I'll see how much they charge for the shroud.

www.americancoolingsolutions.com

Mobile Hydraulic Oil Cooler, 0-120 GPM, 65HP; Model OC-72 With or Without Bypass Valve

OEM Quality drop in replacement Radiators, Oil Coolers, Inter Coolers, Condensers, Charge Air Coolers, and Evaporators for Tractors, Trucks, Skid Steers, Loaders, OTR Trucks, ATVs, Excavator, Dozer, Back Hoe and Automotive.
www.americancoolingsolutions.com www.americancoolingsolutions.com

ACS001.jpg

ACS002.jpg
 
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Dumb question.

Are there any internal differences between a cooler designed for oil and a cooler designed for water?
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm glad you asked :homer:
Click to expand...

It just seems that there is such a difference between the two fluids that there would also be differences in the design of the coolers.

Plus, if it's a stupid question, it'll be buried 3 pages back in a couple days.:flipoff2:
 
gt1guy said:
It just seems that there is such a difference between the two fluids that there would also be differences in the design of the coolers.

Plus, if it's a stupid question, it'll be buried 3 pages back in a couple days.:flipoff2:
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I don't think it is.
Looking at the various pix of the raw cores it's really hard to tell what is what.

General racing sites like Dewitt's etc. claim how effective tube/fin cores are and how bad a extruded tube cools due to thickness.
Hydro is challenging all I've read with his radiator, but he has the math to back it up.

I have no idea.
 
CarterKraft said:
I don't think it is.
Looking at the various pix of the raw cores it's really hard to tell what is what.

General racing sites like Dewitt's etc. claim how effective tube/fin cores are and how bad a extruded tube cools due to thickness.
Hydro is challenging all I've read with his radiator, but he has the math to back it up.

I have no idea.
Click to expand...

It will be interesting to hear if he says there's a difference between them.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The cores I have now were used even though they leaked in their prior life, just didn't know it. I was advised to use a sealant. Didn't want to.
I paid for the replacement core after it was shipped not knowing if I was going to be charged or not. I think it was $225 plus $50 shipping.
No reply from Triton on the new leaking core.
Click to expand...

ahh, you bought parts not a complete radiator
 
From what I have seen, water tubes are thinner with more fin area. Oil tubes are thicker with same fin size but less fin area because the tubes take up more room per core size.

Water cores are probably seeing sub 20 PSI were oil cores are rated around 250 PSI. Wall thickness is needed for higher pressures.

Flow rates on an oil core can be 120GPM while a similar size water core might be 40GPM. They would also commonly have the same size port -20.

A lot of water radiators for off road are being built with oil cores.

An oil core can handle a lot more impact compared to a water core.

Oil cores weigh a lot more than water cores. On a light weight race car, an oil core would add a lot of unnecessary weight.

On a vehicle speed forced air, a water core is going to flow more than an oil core.
 
It sounds like you just made the case for running a water core. More fin surface area and better air flow through the core.

Is your choice to run a oil core based on the strength advantage? Or?
 
Notice the difference in the turbo air core tube thickness vs the water core.
None of these pictures are of the same, just showing differences.
IMG_6321.jpeg

IMG_6322.jpeg

IMG_6323.jpeg
 
gt1guy said:
It sounds like you just made the case for running a water core. More fin surface area and better air flow through the core.

Is your choice to run an oil core based on the strength advantage? Or?
Click to expand...
Oil coolers can take way more abuse and impact. I almost lost a Griffin water core from dropping a fitting on a tube from about a foot high. By the time you mad max it to keep it safe you might be at the same weight as an oil cooler.
I like how oil coolers have bolt holes and flanges and strong tanks. There is a reason why a lot of mobile industrial equipment water coolers are identical to oil coolers.
 
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