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Class A Ford V10

AK_F250

AK_F250

Red Rocket
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
178
Messages
741
Loc
Alaska
Yeah yeah, 2BB started a similar thread a month ago. I actually bought one though so it's different. :flipoff2:

On Friday I bought a 22k mile 2001 34' class A Coachmen Santara, one owner and basically new other than faded graphics and a fender ding. This is my first V10 or "modern" ford and I'd like to get a jump on maintenance and any modifications that should be made right off the bat. It'll be used to tow a toyota or dirtbikes/quads occasionally, but nothing major, I have my diesel for that. I haven't driven it much but I'm sure I'll be disappointed in performance over my 600+whp cummins with a bumper pull and I came to terms with that going in. 3 people and 2 dogs in said truck suck for long trips way more than getting there at the speed limit.

Tips, tricks? Run?
 
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Clb said:
Under
Powered

R
U
N
:stirthepot:
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Fuck it, guess it's Fummins time with the rust dodge donor! :flipoff2:
Amazing that this ghetto fab RV is in better shape than an 06. Well, maybe not...:lmao:
This thing is an amazing hack fest of square tube supporting the body 2' off the frame, it's a sight to behold. Guess it's better than the non RV chassis though.

The top of the rear tire is about even with the top of the frame and the bin tops are at the floor for reference. Ghetto grave digger under there :smokin:
 
ALLAH ACKBAR!!!!! GET OUT OF THE TOPIC!!!
(thread hijack) :flipoff2:

can anyone decode this?

The front makes sense at least, just don’t put much weight on the overhang?

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EB2B05F5-EC24-4546-8892-98201CE05244.jpeg
 
AK_F250 said:
Yeah yeah, 2BB started a similar thread a month ago. I actually bought one though so it's different. :flipoff2:

On Friday I bought a 22k mile 2001 34' class A Coachmen Santara, one owner and basically new other than faded graphics and a fender ding. This is my first V10 or "modern" ford and I'd like to get a jump on maintenance and any modifications that should be made right off the bat. It'll be used to tow a toyota or dirtbikes/quads occasionally, but nothing major, I have my diesel for that. I haven't driven it much but I'm sure I'll be disappointed in performance over my 600+whp cummins with a bumper pull and I came to terms with that going in. 3 people and 2 dogs in said truck suck for long trips way more than getting there at the speed limit.

Tips, tricks? Run?
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Either they used time travel, or there was a typo in your post as your stickers both say 2007, not 2001.

Aaron Z
 
My sis has a v10 inna 30 ish footer, purty hard to let an auto "rev".
Let's put one of those stupid multi speed (10-15?) automatic trannys that never stop shifting to add to the festivities:stirthepot:
the 10 is ok but really not a commercial quality power plant.
 
The motorhome I was talking about in 2BB's thread is a 1999 33' Coachman Catalina which looks very similar. Nothing to add to the original thread except if it has manual fill airbags on the rear axle make sure to keep air in them and they make a huge difference on ride quality and even sway.

I think the manual says to measure ride height empty and then load all your shit and use the bags to bring it back up to ride height. We usually forget and just put 60-90 psi in them but check your manual.
 
Cant tell from pics and I'm not going to research. I'd want something deeper than 4.56s with a 2v and 4r100. That's an underpowered pig.
 
Clb said:
My sis has a v10 inna 30 ish footer, purty hard to let an auto "rev".
Let's put one of those stupid multi speed (10-15?) automatic trannys that never stop shifting to add to the festivities:stirthepot:
the 10 is ok but really not a commercial quality power plant.
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the V10 is used as an industrial engine and has been reliable in commercial vehicles.
 
Provience said:
basically just stand on the pedal and hold it there, it will go eventually or it won't :flipoff2:
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If it blows it needed fixin anyway. That’s always been my philosophy, my former used car dealer boss stopped letting me “test drive” stuff. :laughing:
 
Thatg9659 said:
If it blows it needed fixin anyway. That’s always been my philosophy, my former used car dealer boss stopped letting me “test drive” stuff. :laughing:
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still cheaper to flop a whole new V10 into it for something minor rather than "injectors" or "lift pump" on anything diesel :rasta:

Grr..tough cummins, all the power!

Eek...oil changes and dirty fuel! :flipoff2:
 
Provience said:
still cheaper to flop a whole new V10 into it for something minor rather than "injectors" or "lift pump" on anything diesel :rasta:

Grr..tough cummins, all the power!

Eek...oil changes and dirty fuel! :flipoff2:
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Oil pan to intake is like 300$ :usa:
 
I would check the spark plugs in what you have - search the intar-web about the best way to make it last without having the heli-coil the heads. Other than that the V10 is solid. The engines are everywhere

My dad has a 34 Foot '03 Southwind on a F-53 chassis with a 2V V10. It has been reliable - though not fast. He just took it to South Dakota and back towing and had no issues whatsoever. His has the updated heads (late '03). Only complaint is compression braking - which that would imply it has it - which it doesn't. That can be managed, but that would be the only thing that is bad about any gasser RV.


Oh yeah - and your tach will never go below 3000 on anything resembling a grade.

Screen Shot 2021-05-13 at 3.12.45 PM.png
 
FordFascist said:
Only complaint is compression braking - which that would imply it has it - which it doesn't. That can be managed, but that would be the only thing that is bad about any gasser RV.
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you seem to be implying that diesels natively have any sort of engine braking abilities
I'd bet that v10 pulled down a gear holds back a lot better than a 7.3DI would

unless its doing some DBW fuckery where it opens the throttle wide on overrun, the manifold vacuum provides a whole fuckton more engine braking than engine friction alone
 
[486] said:
you seem to be implying that diesels natively have any sort of engine braking abilities
I'd bet that v10 pulled down a gear holds back a lot better than a 7.3DI would

unless its doing some DBW fuckery where it opens the throttle wide on overrun, the manifold vacuum provides a whole fuckton more engine braking than engine friction alone
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Rented a transit 250 with the ten speed, put a lot of stuff in it & had the cruise at the speed limit, got to a downhill and that fucker downshifts & nearly redlines to maintain the set speed :lmao:

I think The 6.8 engine brakes well, but I’m the type that would rather wear out rings bearings and clutches than brakes. I’ll set it sit at 4500 in 2nd going downhill before I touch the woah pedal.
 
[486] said:
you seem to be implying that diesels natively have any sort of engine braking abilities
I'd bet that v10 pulled down a gear holds back a lot better than a 7.3DI would

unless its doing some DBW fuckery where it opens the throttle wide on overrun, the manifold vacuum provides a whole fuckton more engine braking than engine friction alone
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I always attributed engine braking ability to compression. Higher the compression is, better the engine braking will be, hence why diesels are inherently better at it.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I always attributed engine braking ability to compression. Higher the compression is, better the engine braking will be, hence why diesels are inherently better at it.
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Diesels make up for their compression by not having a throttle.

There's a reason heavy trucks have exhaust brakes and jake brakes.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I always attributed engine braking ability to compression. Higher the compression is, better the engine braking will be, hence why diesels are inherently better at it.
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you get it right back on the absent power stroke
the only loss is leakage past the rings (or through the cylinder walls on an idi)

ETA: modern ones get around it by clamping down on the vanes in the turbo to be a pretend exhaust brake
you can get a lot more pressure in the exhaust (most manus seemed to spec around 30 psi years back) than the -12 psi or so that the intake will get to, so exhaust brakes are indeed a lot more effective than a throttle plate
a proper compression release brake though can get nearly your full compression pressure against the engine, thus why when they're available they're the de-facto king, what with 200 psi or whatever working at holding you back
 
not very relevant as ours is a much newer V10 (30' 2016 Coachman Pursuit) but we've put almost 40,000 miles on it in the last 2 years racing Ultra4 and Renegades/Dirt Riot. With the Comanche, spares, and enclosed 26' trailer we're somewhere around 11-12k lbs towing and the v10 doesn't care at all. MPG is the same regardless of towing or not at 6 mpg but we do cruise at 70 mph everywhere. Only place its really struggled was the last stretch of hills before you turn onto the road that takes you to Hammertown and in West Virginia. The trick IMO is to have the momentum up as much as possible before the hill, if you're going 50-55 you're fawked and going to slow all the way down to 30 something.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I always attributed engine braking ability to compression. Higher the compression is, better the engine braking will be, hence why diesels are inherently better at it.
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Well you’re wrong and No they aren’t. :homer:
 
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My little tiny camper with a V10 can climb any paved grade there is, and do it faster than just about every diesel RV. Power to weight is the answer. So, to the OP, you have a better power to weight ratio than most semi trucks. And an order of magnitude less than every car/pickup. Scale your expectations accordingly, and everything will be fine. On the way down the hill, just hold it back a gear. I wish you had the same 6-speed I do, because it's pretty great in that regard.

And people bitching about the 10 speed---more gears are better. I like having 3 or so useful engine braking ratios, but wish it was 5.
 
OHV Wildcat said:
My little tiny camper with a V10 can climb any paved grade there is, and do it faster than just about every diesel RV. Power to weight is the answer. So, to the OP, you have a better power to weight ratio than most semi trucks. And an order of magnitude less than every car/pickup. Scale your expectations accordingly, and everything will be fine. On the way down the hill, just hold it back a gear. I wish you had the same 6-speed I do, because it's pretty great in that regard.

And people bitching about the 10 speed---more gears are better. I like having 3 or so useful engine braking ratios, but wish it was 5.
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I have two kenworths and I can tell you for a fact they have way more ass than this fat bitch does with 40k behind them. All about the available gears, when you can keep the engine in the sweet spot power to weight doesn't matter nearly as much.

Is the 6 speed a supported swap? I'm not too up on ford stuff, 15 years ago when I was working in a transmission shop the 4R100 was the newest we ever saw. Just with the driving I've done around town and up the side of the mountain to my house I can tell that 2 more would really help.
 
[486] said:
you get it right back on the absent power stroke
the only loss is leakage past the rings (or through the cylinder walls on an idi
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Not really responding to you but
That 99ish% back on the downstroke is why diesels are such fuel sippers at idle and generally don’t create any heat while idling, no pumping losses.
 
Thatg9659 said:
Not really responding to you but
That 99ish% back on the downstroke is why diesels are such fuel sippers at idle and generally don’t create any heat while idling, no pumping losses.
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yup, running against manifold vacuum is a pretty significant amount of load
swhy they'll go to such crazy lengths to eliminate manifold vacuum on gas engines
ever seen inside one of them BMW mini cooper motors where they got the linkage that varies the intake valve lift rather than throttling with manifold vacuum?
 
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