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A little arts and CAD tonight to work towards an inner fenderwell.
patterned
Dont have to remove anything to slide it out from behind the coilover.
started shaping. Will fill the cutout with either a welded in or aircraft riveted section and enclose the top with some light rubber flashing to allow for flex.
EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
Oh whooptie do.
Another update.
Another update.
Go build something, wouldja?Oh whooptie do.
Another update.
EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
Go build something, wouldja?
Getting there. Getting there.
Trying to catch a ground hog now too. If I get this sumbitch ... that'll be #5 for the year.
I hear they're delicious. Like grass fed beef.
EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
Funny ... 10 min after i posted --- #5 (for the year) has been caught.
Anyone need a toupee or chest hair?
Got this coolness today for a little extra engine insurance. If you don't run an oil accumulator, as a former hydraulics tech I would highly recommend one. 1-3 extra quarts of capacity (this one is 3, and by far the most cost effective, and the only one with billet mounts). Gives you extra time in an off camber or rollover situation to keep oil flowing at full pressure. I also bought a normally closed solenoid valve, so when the key turns on, it dumps the accumulator and acts as an engine prelube device to prolong engine life and prevent dry starts.
that's my sales pitch for the day.
that's my sales pitch for the day.
Working on closing these inner fenders. Just a couple more pieces to make and tab them in, and inner fenders will be complete.
Then I prepped and cleco'd the coilover closeouts.
With plenty of roon for the fitting to clear. Going to fill the remaining gaps with rubber covers for flex.
and made a cover to close out the sides of the shock towers for a little added ooh factor when you open the hood. Drivers side is done other than mount tabs for all this crap. These will all get painted body color to really tie everything together.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Looks great. I know that was a lot of work.
Thanks. Yeah. It was a stupid amount of time and a lot of cardboard and tape to get them right. I really think it will make the front end look "right" when everything is painted and assembled. More of that making people guess what's actually been done to this thing.
EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
Hes making a shelf for a hotdog warmer. Mark my words .... once he tries Nathans ---- that warmer will be operational in no time.
Found out about Nathan's years ago in Ohio. Definitely my favorite dog.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
wicked nice 
EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
I've been to several ..... but going to the original is NO comparison. They still use the original grease from 1916.
That's what makes it so special.They're no longer open 23 hours a day tho.
LF- 1130
RF- 1226
LR- 997
RR- 1067
50% cross
53% front
47% rear
4413 measured
Figure 4800 Fluids, fuel, upholstery and glass. Rear tank and upholstery should push it to 50% F/R bias.
There it is fellas. Not quite as light as I was hoping, but still shouldn't cross 5k lbs.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That's lighter than I would have guessed.
I've tried to cut weight everywhere I could. 120 wall frame and 3/16 steel and aluminum armor as compared to 3/16 frame and 1/4" armor many people do on their builds shaved a ton of weight. I was bs'ing with Rodney Hendrix (the green stretched flat fender all over insta) he's 4700+ because of frame and armor. That's nuts.
Holy cow! Where have aircraft rivets been all my life. This is my first time trying them (and I made some minor mistakes) but these are the best thing since sliced bread. So much easier than pop rivets, though more time consuming. They almost disappear. Also made the whole structure way stiffer. Installation was a breeze.
Dzus tabbed and installed the drivers side. That was enough for me today with the heat.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Oh no, that's not going to cut it at all. You can't drop the aircraft rivet bomb and just walk away like that.
What the deal with them? I don't think I've ever even seen one in the wild. Are they the things that are hammered into place? No mandrel? Do you need to be on both sides of the part at the same time?
Spill the beans
They look almost flush. I dig it.
What the deal with them? I don't think I've ever even seen one in the wild. Are they the things that are hammered into place? No mandrel? Do you need to be on both sides of the part at the same time?
Spill the beans
They look almost flush. I dig it.
I can leave you hangin' if I want to, and there's not a damn thing you can do about itOh no, that's not going to cut it at all. You can't drop the aircraft rivet bomb and just walk away like that.
What the deal with them? I don't think I've ever even seen one in the wild. Are they the things that are hammered into place? No mandrel? Do you need to be on both sides of the part at the same time?
Spill the beans
They look almost flush. I dig it.
But, if you really want to know...... yes, you have to have access to both sides of the panel. They sell bucking bars, but any flat piece of steel to back it and fit you object shape will do for aluminum rivets (the better its polished, the better the overall finish)
I got mine from McMaster. They come in a few different head styles. I'll concentrate on flush head (thats what im using for now). You have to pick the rivet length for the material thickness you're trying to join, but there is some leeway since we aren't building aircraft.
Then you put the panel back together, cleco, insert a rivet, and hammer it home, repeat til done. I'd say it wasn't worth it, but they are so much cleaner than pop rivets, and once you get to install, it's so much easier and faster to put them in.
Thanks Bud!
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Thank you for that kind Sir. Sounds like you just need to pay more attention to the prep. The tools don't seem bad or overly expensive ether.
The finished product certainly makes any extra effort worth it. It looks fantastic.
And yes, you held all the cards. All I had was begging.
The finished product certainly makes any extra effort worth it. It looks fantastic.
And yes, you held all the cards. All I had was begging.
No problem. Hopefully you find some benefit in it.
Front min. (Comp.) length: 39.125"
At ride height: 39.375"
Full droop: 40.500"
Build length 39.8125 inches
Body changed angles vs axles as I was lift and lowering the body.
Front angular change through travel:
Compression:
T-case flg: 83*
Axle flg: 85* (2 deg change)
Ride height:
T.C. Flg: 83*
Axle flg: 87* (4 deg change)
Droop:
T.C. flg: 65*
Axle flg: 91* (26 deg change) (should be 6.5* max on each joint at cv, and 13* at Axle, should be fine)
Proud of the numbers on the rear shaft
Compressed: 37.25"
Ride height: 37.375"
Droop: 37.25"
1/8" overall change through travel
Angular reference:
Comp:
TC flg: 82*
Axle flg: 85* (3*)
Ride height:
TC flg: 96*
Axle flg: 84* (12*)
Droop:
TC flg: 90*
Axle flg: 83* (7*)
Max differential rear will see is 3* and 3* at cv and 6* at Axle. I can live with that for sure.
Front retube needs to be:
Stock shaft (1978 chevy K20 shaft) length (31.875")
Add 8" to tube length (stock tube length 15.5" needs to be 23.5" ; 2.0" OD tube)
Rear shaft:
Stock 09-18 dodge 2500 front shaft:
31.500" from CV flange face to center of slip flange U joint.
Length needs to be 37.25" at center of slip joint
Add 5.75" to tube
Tube length: 14.25"
Cut and face tube to 20"
Pilot inside to 2.260" to a depth of .695" one side and 2.250" pilot to depth of .355"
Totally stealing this from Bondo. I needed a good place to mount my fuel pressure regulator and return system. Moving the coils up and away from the heat is a bonus. So I ordered one today.
Rockchump
They call me Bondo
This turned out so much like I originally had planned for my CJ6. It’s turning out great!! Can wait to go chase each other around the hammers!!
Hell yes. I'm excited.