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CJ5 AMC360 Ford Taurus 2 speed fan wiring

I might be missing how that would be any different from jumping the connector:confused:.
Seriously not trying to be a dick or anything as I appreciate the constructive replies.
 
Make sure your temp gauge is calibrated. I had a mystery fan issue for a while until I figured out I had a gauge that read high. My GPW would run at an indicated 210°F. I cracked into my ECU and discovered that I was running at 195°F according to it. I called Stewart Warner and they recommended adding a resistor in-line because there are some built in variances in the sender.

I'm running this for mine.

Low:
  • On 196°F
  • Off 186°F
High:
  • On 212°F
  • Off 200°F
 
FordFascist said:
Make sure your temp gauge is calibrated. I had a mystery fan issue for a while until I figured out I had a gauge that read high. My GPW would run at an indicated 210°F. I cracked into my ECU and discovered that I was running at 195°F according to it. I called Stewart Warner and they recommended adding a resistor in-line because there are some built in variances in the sender.

I'm running this for mine.

Low:
  • On 196°F
  • Off 186°F
High:
  • On 212°F
  • Off 200°F
Click to expand...
Mine is '61318361787', which is the 80/88C sensor. I decided to not go with the one you have because I want the engine to have active cooling sooner rather than later haha.
 
Ok, well, I had a chance to make some more progress on this.

So as it turns out the wiring for the sensor was incorrectly documented in that the low vs high pins were swapped. With the Volvo relay, it seems that Low and High relays are sequential so that in order for high speed (2) to kick on, low speed (1) has to be clicked first. With the wires reversed, 2 would be closed first, and then 1 would close with the high end temperature range on the sensor, which brough the fan up to high speed, skipping low.

Anyways, so that got sorted however the sensor itself still wont kick on until like 230 degrees at the thermostat for low fan speed. This tells me that either the sensor (cheap off-brand) is not accurately made (very likely) or I need to make a change to how I have the sensor mounted (also likely).

Currently, the sensor is nested into an adapter which then screws into the aluminum in-line fitting.
407049242_1387065778589279_6725396401057943941_n.jpg


My thinking is that all of that extra brass is allowing for a heatsink effect or something. So I bought a cheap 14x1.5mm tap and I plan to drill out and thread the in-line adapter which will sink the sensor directly into the coolant. I also have a more expensive name brand sensor on the way.
 
The switch works like a thermostat, a small amount of material expands internally with heat. Instead of opening a valve it closes the electrical contacts. It's not like a digital temperature probe, there is inherent delay as the material expands. I dont think chasing a faster reaction is bad, but you may have to accept a small temp spike during warm up.
 
MigGunslinger said:
The switch works like a thermostat, a small amount of material expands internally with heat. Instead of opening a valve it closes the electrical contacts. It's not like a digital temperature probe, there is inherent delay as the material expands. I dont think chasing a faster reaction is bad, but you may have to accept a small temp spike during warm up.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I agree and understand the delay in a bimetallic type of switch or whatever they use in there to close the circuit. However, I think I can reduce the heat saturation time by removing some of the intermediate metal. My concern right now is that the high speed does not kick on even when it climbs back up so I think there is some heatsink effect of the adapter. :confused:

Worst case, nothing changes with these next mods and I still have a fan haha.
 
D_JEEPER said:
Ok, well, I had a chance to make some more progress on this.

So as it turns out the wiring for the sensor was incorrectly documented in that the low vs high pins were swapped. With the Volvo relay, it seems that Low and High relays are sequential so that in order for high speed (2) to kick on, low speed (1) has to be clicked first. With the wires reversed, 2 would be closed first, and then 1 would close with the high end temperature range on the sensor, which brough the fan up to high speed, skipping low.

Anyways, so that got sorted however the sensor itself still wont kick on until like 230 degrees at the thermostat for low fan speed. This tells me that either the sensor (cheap off-brand) is not accurately made (very likely) or I need to make a change to how I have the sensor mounted (also likely).

Currently, the sensor is nested into an adapter which then screws into the aluminum in-line fitting.
407049242_1387065778589279_6725396401057943941_n.jpg


My thinking is that all of that extra brass is allowing for a heatsink effect or something. So I bought a cheap 14x1.5mm tap and I plan to drill out and thread the in-line adapter which will sink the sensor directly into the coolant. I also have a more expensive name brand sensor on the way.
Click to expand...



The sensor needs to be in the waterflow BEFORE the thermostat, not after it. You're better off T-ing it into a heater line or into the actual gauge sender location.

Thermostats begin to open at the specified temperature (e.g. 180°) which means that the mixture of cool un-circulating water and hot water are well below the operating temperature of the engine and will thus never trigger a temperature switch.

TL;DR move the switch to the hot side of the engine.
 
As I mentioned before, when we were running a similar setup (w/ ford contour fan) we had the switch on the manifold. In practice I don't think the fan ever really went down from high speed to low speed unless we were on the freeway and didn't notice it over the 3000 RPM V8 and tire noise.:lmao:

For sure sitting at idle the low speed could not keep it cool.

It might be cool to set up a simple harness with some LEDs that you can tell if the high or low fan speed is on while you are driving around for testing.

I agree that if you are not getting the reaction speed that you want after you're next round of mods than you need to try tapping into the engine side of the cooling system.
 
Ok maybe I am full window-licker on my thinking here.... but isn't the water flow out of the top of the rad into the motor on the AMCs?

So relatively hot coolant on the bottom of the rad flowing in and top of the rad flowing out? So I would want the temp sensor to be reading the radiator fluid flowing into the engine to determine the state of heat saturation in the radiator for whether or not to trigger the fan, right?

But I do agree... if I cannot get this working how I want, I will be tapping into the top of the manifold somewhere.


Also, my new IR Temp gun came in today so I can be a bit more certain of the temps I am seeing on the gauge vs reading on the motor itself.
 
D_JEEPER said:
Ok maybe I am full window-licker on my thinking here.... but isn't the water flow out of the top of the rad into the motor on the AMCs?

So relatively hot coolant on the bottom of the rad flowing in and top of the rad flowing out? So I would want the temp sensor to be reading the radiator fluid flowing into the engine to determine the state of heat saturation in the radiator for whether or not to trigger the fan, right?

But I do agree... if I cannot get this working how I want, I will be tapping into the top of the manifold somewhere.


Also, my new IR Temp gun came in today so I can be a bit more certain of the temps I am seeing on the gauge vs reading on the motor itself.
Click to expand...
No. The hot side on an AMC 360 is the top hose. The arrow shows your thermostat housing.

1705453249988.png
 
FordFascist said:
No. The hot side on an AMC 360 is the top hose. The arrow shows your thermostat housing.

1705453249988.png
Click to expand...
Ah ok, so I got that bass ackwards. :homer: When installing the water pump I was fairly certain it was pushing to the bottom hose when I spun it. Oh well...


Well I guess I will see where this next iteration of sensor location configuration and such leaves me haha. If it is still not working as expected I will be moving to an engine-mounted setup. I do have the tap for the 14x1.5mm BMW sensor though so that can find its way into a thermostat housing or something.

I will cross that bridge when I get there haha. Unfortunately I seem to only have time on the weekends to mess with this stuff.
 
For reference, I put mine in the waterneck. On a Ford 351W, the port on the waterneck is in the path of the bypass hose, so you get a consistent read on the temperature.

1705506706730.jpeg
 
OK, I need to update this haha. Got the name brand sensor in and it works SO much better. The old one had a really slow heat response whereas this new one is super quick and much more precise. Also, the plug wires needed to be swapped BACK to how I originally had it.

Lesson learned... buy name brand shit. :shaking:
 
So I have had zero issues with this setup since I finished it. Low speed cuts on when it is supposed to and it never gets above 190 so far even when idling/revving while stationary.

The only time I have heard high speed is when I have been running it and turn the ignition off for a few minutes. It seems to heat soak the sensor. Once I start it up (after sitting for like 2 minutes with no power) it runs high for about 10 seconds, drops to low until it turns off.
 
When I was doing the Taurus fan in my Frontier, I ended up using a Dakota Digital 2 PAC2800BT controller to run the Volvo relays. Not the cheapest method but can adjust on/off of both speeds to whatever I want from my phone. It has built in A/C and disable inputs, so avoids the need for additional relays.

It uses a sender like an ecm so reads real time temps.


20221023_175441-XL.jpg
 
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