Chief buggy

[mobil1syn]

why get a the nice pump from radial and not pair it with their reservoir?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

why get a the nice pump from radial and not pair it with their reservoir?

2 fold, I have never had a problem getting my other systems to bleed, I have heard mixed reviews of it, and its But mostly it's cost..

 

[Bebop]

I have heard mixed reviews of it

Really?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Really?

Sealed vs vented systems. I do believe it works at the de-aerating the fluid. But honestly its the cost. THat on item alone costs more than most of the steering system combined.

 

[Bebop]

Sealed vs vented systems.

Who said that sealed is better?

 

[JR4X]

Who said that sealed is better?

I do.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Have also talked to some other racers/high stress applications who have sealed their psc systems. Also this isnt to insult any maker, more of an open discussion.

I will say ppl say the Radial pumps are amazing.

 

[Sean]

I run sealed too....though my PSC reservoir has a long "vent" tube (it's capped) for expansion to take place when it heats up.

 

[94toytruck]

I run a PSC resi with a filter in it and a Radial dynamics cap with extended line and pressure vent.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

I killed 2 PSC TC pumps in a sealed configuration. The 3rd one is lstill going with a check valve on the vent to keep the system pressurized.

The new setup will be the RD TC pump, Resi and check valve as Eric recommended on the phone.

 

[JR4X]

I killed 2 PSC TC pumps in a sealed configuration. The 3rd one is lstill going with a check valve on the vent to keep the system pressurized.

The new setup will be the RD TC pump, Resi and check valve as Eric recommended on the phone.

Do you have an adequate cooler or have any idea what your actual power steering fluid temperature runs?

 

[Sean]

I killed 2 PSC TC pumps in a sealed configuration. The 3rd one is lstill going with a check valve on the vent to keep the system pressurized.

The new setup will be the RD TC pump, Resi and check valve as Eric recommended on the phone.

I plan to do the same in the future with RD components....mainly b/c that's what Eric recommends. I sort of liked the sealed set up though since it never pukes fluid regardless of angle or how hot it gets.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

I have had a Derale cooler w/fan on it the entire time which, from what I have read, should have been more than adequate for the system. The only things I have changed are the TC pumps and some of the hose routing and the addition on the check valve on the vent. I have never gotten a running temp on on the steering fluid which probably should have been done.

 

[Bebop]

I do.

Explain please.
The cars have a 12x12 CBR cooler with a 12" fan, 160 degree thermostat and will run around 140 to 160 during heavy race use.
We're running a vented system as per Erik's instructions.
Performance is great, but anything we can do to improve I'm all ears.

Thanks

 

[JR4X]

Explain please.
The cars have a 12x12 CBR cooler with a 12" fan, 160 degree thermostat and will run around 140 to 160 during heavy race use.
We're running a vented system as per Erik's instructions.
Performance is great, but anything we can do to improve I'm all ears.

Thanks

Gladly. I’ll have to check back in later to chop up some word salad though

 

[FleshEater]

Do you have an adequate cooler or have any idea what your actual power steering fluid temperature runs?

Assume the best place to check temp is out of the cooler?

 

[JR4X]

Assume the best place to check temp is out of the cooler?

Or the reservoir. The temperature that matters most, is the temperature of the fluid going into the pump.

 

[chaplinfj60]

Or the reservoir. The temperature that matters most, is the temperature of the fluid going into the pump.

well damn that would be easy to put a bung on the side of res. easy day

 

[Bebop]

well damn that would be easy to put a bung on the side of res. easy day

RD resis have the port for that already.

 

[JR4X]

well damn that would be easy to put a bung on the side of res. easy day

Or just shoot it with an IR temp gun. Once you know your system is good it’s not like you have to monitor it constantly. The only reason it would get hotter than normal is if something went wrong like running low or out of fluid.

My systems run about 105° at the reservoir and output from the pump about 200°. Which is pretty much the ideal conditions for the fluid itself. That’s in a vehicle with an under hood temp between 180° ~ 200°. We average 4 years on a TC pump in the 4500 car.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

RD resis have the port for that already.

I didnt even think about using the aux return port for a sensor location. Adding that to the list..

 

[JR4X]

Explain please.
The cars have a 12x12 CBR cooler with a 12" fan, 160 degree thermostat and will run around 140 to 160 during heavy race use.
We're running a vented system as per Erik's instructions.
Performance is great, but anything we can do to improve I'm all ears.

Thanks

Doesn’t sound like you have any performance issues to correct. Does your vented RD reservoir spray a mist of PS fluid all over your engine bay like both my race cars do? The only performance benefit you’d get is a little pressure on top of the fluid is like free hydrostatic pressure forcing fluid into the pump intake.

Just like your shocks, or your pressurized coolant system. You can’t cavitate pressurized fluid as long as your air pocket stays on top of the oil. I have talked with Eric about it one on one. He doesn’t like the pressure on the pump like I do because he says it isn’t built for that. Any pump with a can like a p-pump won’t put up with that. I can prove that with a properly assembled system that doesn’t get hot, both a TC and CB pump will happily take a pressurized sealed system for years! And I’m only talking about the tiny amount of pressure it builds due to heat, not starting out by adding pressure like in a shock. Never measured but it would only be a few psi.

I wouldn’t care about not being vented if this terrible idea didn’t spray a 360° mist of PS fluid all over my engine bays. This thing right here is my biggest regret on both of our cars currently. The radiator cap for a lid was a dumb design (sorry not sorry Eric of RD because I know someone is going to tag him or screenshot this and send it to him) and he knows it because now his new cans have a screw on lid like a PSC can with a threaded port in the center.

I’m not in a position to spend another $850 each on two new cans to fix the colossal error of that stupid lid idea. They don’t just spray fluid out of the little nipple in a single stream either. Whatever the radiator cap does when it relieves it paints everything under the hoods with a film of oil.

 

[Bebop]

JR4X As always, thanks for your detailed info.

We have the new resi and use the remote pressure valve then a catch can, so we don't have that problem so far.
The worry I have about the sealed system is the complete lack of control over what pressure happens in the resi, which is a function of the fluid level and temperature. I like ot be able to control things.


BTW I have an old RD resi for my personal car and was already planning to convert it to a regular cap because how much of a pita the rad cap is to use. Should be as simple as welding this to the top and boogering Jessica's perfect TIG welding :

2-3/4 in. BLUE FILL CAP WITH ALUMINUM WELD BUNG - C73-777 at The Chassis Shop

Part Number: C73-777, Description: 2-3/4 in. BLUE FILL CAP WITH ALUMINUM WELD BUNG 2-1/4-10 Straight Thread<br/>2-3/4 in. Outside Diameter Bung<br/>5/8 in. Bung Height<br/><br/>Made in the USA<br/><br/>(Cap Replacement O-Ring is C73-788-A)

secure.chassisshop.com

 

[chaplinfj60]

So my cap also burps. But It has a fitting and I direct the fluid away from the rig. Also has his relieve valve in line too.

 

[93blackxj]

Seems like you are basically saying a sealed system can be equivalent to a pressure relief system like the radial dynamics setup if the pressures only reach a few lbs with a proper setup. The RD relief is 10 psi. On the other hand, if the sealed system only reaches a few PSI why would the radiator cap spew fluid? Isnt it like a 10 psi cap? I know a radiator cap will begin to bleed off before its set pressure but wouldn't think it would if it never got over a few PSI. Id say the relief valve is just a little bit more forgiving.

Burkey at Busted Knuckles says the reason he started modifying the PSC like the RD one is because he has busted a steering reservoir and almost burnt a buggy down. I found it a little funny that Burkey started advertising his cap around the same time RD came out with one but said he had been modifying the PSC cap like that for years.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

No major updates but piecing together some things. I picked up a used smittybilt 9500 7hp winch, $250, came with jm rigging line. No remote but it’s gonna be dash wired anyways. It was already narrowed once,but I still had to cut 1.5” out of it to fit the narrow “comp” footprint of the winch tray.

Modded the winch tray adds little clearance on the motor terminals. And burned it in. Also used a bulldog winch fairlead. For less than $350, I’m happy.

 

[ridered3]

I like how the winch and fairlead tuck behind the bumper, especially for $350!

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So that cradle is all Hulse engineering. I cannot claim that idea.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So in looking ahead, for interior, I am figuring on adding a water temp, trans temp, and oil pressure gauge? and a little cig socket style volt gauge?

I want to run the trans temp sensor inline vs in the pan. Im guessing use something like this?


Improved Racing Products ENV-151

 

[Wisconsinite]

They make smaller fitting that accomplish the same thing if you want it a little more sleek.

Depending on what you are using for a dash/gauge set up, I like these little guys.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors/temperature_sensors/parts/30-2013