Chief buggy

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So a great update. Ram is mounted, got tie rods finalized. I used laser bros(ppl who cute the brackets for hulse). Kinda like sendcutsend. I would totally recommend. Send some stickers and candy

1/4” plate. Added 1”sq blocks inside each foot. This creates a stop beyond just the bolts.
Diff cover can be removed with the ram in place.

Also keen eyes will notice the whole axle is welded out. Preheat, weld baby weld. wrap and let it cool. Caster is set at 12* caster, 3* pinion angle.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Also from Laser bros, I got a steering wheel center that ties in with the buggy name and gas tank mount .

 

[ridered3]

Awesome on updates and pretty cool to get "free stickers and candy" with your orders

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Thanks. I drew the plate up and had it cut. Should allow for a soft shackle suck down/recovery point. And the mini truss doesn’t add too much bulk and weight. These 05+ 60’s are stupidly heavy. I have cut as much fat as I can

 

[chaplinfj60]

thats very cool.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

A little update. I wanted a rear winch, never used on but I have a feeling this buggy will teach me some new tricks. I relocated the battery behind the passenger seat. To clear it I had to redo the big ammo can mount to push it back 1.5”. This actually helped all around and just clears the packout. Then added the rear winch. It’s an HF Apex 5500. Harbor freight is killing it with these. Comes with wiring, switches, disconnect, etc.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Also, in the stages of building my cart for my fuel system, and trans cooler lines, etc. In the past I have had good luck with speedway pushlok stuff.

but is there an advantage to the two piece thread together style

 

[Bebop]

Depends what hose you use.
Pushlock stuff will deteriorate faster.

I'm replacing all my pushlock stuff after 4 years cause they are done.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

probably earls vapor guard or summit braided...

 

[Bebop]

Earl Vapor guard requires a different type of barbs than the pushlock stuff shown above.

Summit braided you need the 2 piece fittings.

 

[YJ4Rox]

Im using Fragola "pushlock" on my trans cooler and fuel system, no complaints so far.

Bebop is correct some brands like earls push lock are specific to their hose. I try not to mix and match on push lock stuff. If i use fragola push on fittings i use fragola pushlock hose.

 

[chaplinfj60]

for fuel i used the braided stuff that you had to thread into each fitting and tighten down. push lock was for all my lower pressure stuff like coolers and such.
dont forget about Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com these guys for fittings. about the cheapest i have found. just make sure they fit your need.

 

[Bebop]

for fuel i used the braided stuff that you had to thread into each fitting and tighten down. push lock was for all my lower pressure stuff like coolers and such.

Coolers are usually higher pressure than fuel.

dont forget about Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com these guys for fittings. about the cheapest i have found. just make sure they fit your need.

yup

 

[94toytruck]

I use push lock for return lines, vents and none pressurized coolers. Everything gets 2 peice for pressurized lines. If you use brand-x fittings use their hose. Adapter fittings like a 1/8pipe to -4 you can use whatever, they all have the same taper.

I have a bunch of extra fittings I carry in my spare box. Also have a peice of normal hose with a -6 male fitting on it I carry in the buggy. Just so I can transfer fuel out my return line into another car in a pinch.

 

[Weasel]

I dunno, I've used RedHead, Earl, and Summit push locks on my rigs and seems to holding up fine.

I did buy a fancy assembly tool that is pretty awesome for push locks but it's spendy. Should rent it out. Works best with straights but does angled ones okay enough with some finagling.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

A small update. I did a little grinding on my truss to get some tighter gaps. And added some tie in gussets for the link towers. Used the saddle gusset from BlackfishFab.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So getting somewhere with the mid ship shaft. Used a 1350 drive shaft part that came with one of my super duty axles, a busted d60 pinion, d60 yoke and some tubing. Add in a bearing pillow block and bam…

My debate is which way to face the bearing. One pushes it closer to the live end, the other is more typical.

 

[FleshEater]

So getting somewhere with the mid ship shaft. Used a 1350 drive shaft part that came with one of my super duty axles, a busted d60 pinion, d60 yoke and some tubing. Add in a bearing pillow block and bam…

My debate is which way to face the bearing. One pushes it closer to the live end, the other is more typical.

My location dictated which way I faced the bearing. Not sure it matters. Maybe just the easiest side to access the set screws?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

fair point. I might play with it some more.

Also got t case shifters finalized. Called the snap on man for some pry bars to cut down. Also mounted the cutting brakes. Everything clears and is easy to reach

 

[white-rhino]

Bearing location should be dictated by where you want your front driveshaft to pivot from, how much droop, u-joint angle etc.

 

[FleshEater]

Bearing location should be dictated by where you want your front driveshaft to pivot from, how much droop, u-joint angle etc.

Looks like he’s a good bit past the lower link joints.

 

[chaplinfj60]

fair point. I might play with it some more.

Also got t case shifters finalized. Called the snap on man for some pry bars to cut down. Also mounted the cutting brakes. Everything clears and is easy to reach

thats not a bad idea. colored handles.

 

[WaterH]

thats not a bad idea. colored handles.

Yea, but mixed up port and starboard. (Unless that’s the picture)

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Looks like he’s a good bit past the lower link joints.

Nope. Joint is directly over the bolt.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Yea, but mixed up port and starboard. (Unless that’s the picture)

thats not a bad idea. colored handles.

Haha well the colors were picked by the kids. Pink is front diff

And they aren’t really pry bars. Just handles

 

[chaplinfj60]

but still awesome idea. i am so used to toyota BS i cant do the 205 to save my life half the time. mainly because far left was front axle. next one was high low so it was easy. but with colors i could remember that **** easy. pink for front.....

 

[JR4X]

Looking good

 

[cdemart2]

Driveshaft looks good. I've been using d60 pinions as midship stubs for years with the same bearing. Only issue I had was the mount tab ripping off so I doubled it up. Been working fine.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

A little update. Got to the steel store. Have them bend a piece for the mount. Then got the mount fans for he base and the bearing. It should also serve as a drive that loop of sorts as the shaft goes thru the mount. Uses poly bushings for some give.

 

[Blase]

So getting somewhere with the mid ship shaft. Used a 1350 drive shaft part that came with one of my super duty axles, a busted d60 pinion, d60 yoke and some tubing. Add in a bearing pillow block and bam…

My debate is which way to face the bearing. One pushes it closer to the live end, the other is more typical.

Looks good!! What size tubing are you using for the mid shaft? Just to make sure I'm understanding what's going on your sliding the course splines for the 1350 slip inside one end of the tub and the machined dana 60 pinion in the other end and welding them up correct?