Muckin_Slusher
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Rolled up the sani-liner and cut on the table saw. Leaves me with an 8 inch strip left over that will be used for toilet runners.
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Canadian Ice Shack Build (the sequel).
- Thread starter Muckin_Slusher
- Start date
Muckin_Slusher
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Ready to build the floor.
Also posed for next year's calendar.
Also posed for next year's calendar.
Muckin_Slusher
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So, the boy has decreed that we shall build a "game table" for this shack.
So far the plan is to shellac a chess board, sequence board and drill holes for crib.
Any other suggestions (bonus points for pics!).
So far the plan is to shellac a chess board, sequence board and drill holes for crib.
Any other suggestions (bonus points for pics!).
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,562
Make the game table sturdy enough for his girlfriend to get fucked on it because that's gonna happen.
Motorcharge
Unregistered User
Or don't so you get to hear him try to come up with another reason why it broke.Make the game table sturdy enough for his girlfriend to get fucked on it because that's gonna happen.
Muckin_Slusher
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Ordered the steel for the hitches today.
Me and boy built the floor and insulated it. Also resawed the rough 6x6 into 2x2 for the wall studs.
This floor will NOT be notched into the runners, to facilitate easy removal when the runners are rotten, or when the floor is rotten. Made that mistake on my last shack, although it's skookum, it will be lots of work to bust the runners off when it's time.
Me and boy built the floor and insulated it. Also resawed the rough 6x6 into 2x2 for the wall studs.
This floor will NOT be notched into the runners, to facilitate easy removal when the runners are rotten, or when the floor is rotten. Made that mistake on my last shack, although it's skookum, it will be lots of work to bust the runners off when it's time.
Muckin_Slusher
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Hitches welded up for both ends.
3x3x3/16 angle, 42 inches long. 1x1x1/8 square tube crossmember.
3/8 solid round bent into u-bolts as well as the metal mushroom (towing grumps) on top.
3x3x3/16 angle, 42 inches long. 1x1x1/8 square tube crossmember.
3/8 solid round bent into u-bolts as well as the metal mushroom (towing grumps) on top.
Tooheysmax
Look Up Here
I’m stupid and live in a very salty climate way down south. But why are you using zinc coated screws and is this the top or bottom of the structure?and success.
You can see in the last pic there's some tearing of the top layer, but overall it's way stronger than kerf cut plywood.
Used washer head screws to reduce splitting.
Muckin_Slusher
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I used those screws because of the flat washer profile of the head, to prevent splitting the plywood as it's very stressed being bent like this. I know they'll likely corrode quicker in the PT wood, but will be held in place by the proper deck screws that secure the layer of plastic that covers this plywood. Coated screws like this aren't available for pressure treated wood (or not easily available...)
These are the runners (bottom) they are a skid that allows the shed to be dragged over ice and snow on a frozen lake.
Muckin_Slusher
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Hitches bitches!
Used 1/2 inch hot dipped carriage bolts. 3 at each corner, then once the floor is on top I'll add one more bolt at each corner up through the floor. I'll use stainless for those because reduced thermal bridging (steel bolts make ice bumps on the floor).
Used 1/2 inch hot dipped carriage bolts. 3 at each corner, then once the floor is on top I'll add one more bolt at each corner up through the floor. I'll use stainless for those because reduced thermal bridging (steel bolts make ice bumps on the floor).
Muckin_Slusher
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Floor bolted down. You can see there's 2 inches of floor hanging over outside the runners. This is so the walls won't cover the screws holding the runners on. Also so the outside walls can be screwed down from under the floor. We started doing this once we got to the point of changing rotten floors on some shacks----build everything so it can be disassembled with least amount of drama.
Good shot of the plastic getting curled up the walls. This keeps them flashed under the outer steel siding to prevent rain water getting into them, and it's also a bulletproof way to make sure the runners don't get pulled off the shack when they freeze into the ice and we hi-lift the shack out.
Good shot of the plastic getting curled up the walls. This keeps them flashed under the outer steel siding to prevent rain water getting into them, and it's also a bulletproof way to make sure the runners don't get pulled off the shack when they freeze into the ice and we hi-lift the shack out.
Tooheysmax
Look Up Here
You should find a way to incorporate a small engine with a fat tire motorcycle setup that you can use as a pusher on the ice. Have it with steering capabilities by mounting the front forks to the house frame. And put a camera on the opposite side with a monitor attached to the handlebars so you can see where you are driving. And maybe give it the option to tilt up when not in use so in case it brakes through the ice it won’t act as an anchor and pull it down.
Muckin_Slusher
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Child labor in the truss factory.
Muckin_Slusher
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Building the roof on the floor next, then will hoist it on the walls later. Easiest way to build the roof without ladders and guaranteed it'll match the floor.
Gonna put a layer of typar right on the trusses, then insulation on top, inbetween strapping. Corrugated steel after that.
This leaves the trusses open for storage (a strip of 3/8 plywood gets nailed to the "ceiling" inside for storage. It's awesome being able to store a ton of shit up high where it's hot.
Gonna put a layer of typar right on the trusses, then insulation on top, inbetween strapping. Corrugated steel after that.
This leaves the trusses open for storage (a strip of 3/8 plywood gets nailed to the "ceiling" inside for storage. It's awesome being able to store a ton of shit up high where it's hot.
Muckin_Slusher
****
Not much progress because working my real job.
Got back at it for about an hour today. Set the trusses where they'll go and straightened/levelled them so they could be braced. I want to keep the trusses open to the interior so they can be used to store helmets and hang stuff to dry. Next step will be to cover the trusses with a layer of synthetic roof underlay (would have used Typar, but I don't want to see the stupid advertisements on it, and don't want to reverse the Typar because the loose fibers). The underlay is a nice, plain brown color, which will be visible.
After the steel is on we'll hoist it out of the way and build the walls. I found a cheap source for fuckup doors and windows so this thing is going to get a 36 inch entrance door.
Got back at it for about an hour today. Set the trusses where they'll go and straightened/levelled them so they could be braced. I want to keep the trusses open to the interior so they can be used to store helmets and hang stuff to dry. Next step will be to cover the trusses with a layer of synthetic roof underlay (would have used Typar, but I don't want to see the stupid advertisements on it, and don't want to reverse the Typar because the loose fibers). The underlay is a nice, plain brown color, which will be visible.
After the steel is on we'll hoist it out of the way and build the walls. I found a cheap source for fuckup doors and windows so this thing is going to get a 36 inch entrance door.
Muckin_Slusher
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I would really like to use Typar but I can't stand all the writing and advertisement shit printed on it.
Any other options? It needs to be something that won't degrade over 20 years of exposure to the heat of a wood stoved ceiling, and something that won't get too fucked up. I could leave the insulation aluminum foil layer exposed, but it looks like shit after getting holes poked in it.
Cheap woven tarp seems to fall apart into a big mess.
Other options?
Geotextile cloth maybe?
Any other options? It needs to be something that won't degrade over 20 years of exposure to the heat of a wood stoved ceiling, and something that won't get too fucked up. I could leave the insulation aluminum foil layer exposed, but it looks like shit after getting holes poked in it.
Cheap woven tarp seems to fall apart into a big mess.
Other options?
Geotextile cloth maybe?
Muckin_Slusher
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Yes. The trusses will be exposed to the inside and there will be a layer of rigid foam on top of the trusses, then steel roofing on that. I've done it before and works very well, but this time I'd like something more finished showing on the inside. The tinfoil of the insulation gets beat up by stuff poking it over the years.
I've got some vent tubing that I think might work. It's used for underground mining ventilation duct and is a tarp material, but cannot be damaged. It will also act as a second layer to keep water out if it ever gets under the steel roofing.
Muckin_Slusher
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I checked and I don't have enough of that stuff left over, and can't stomach buying 1000 square foot roll ($350) just for 80 square feet.
I dug out a vent tubing. First pic is after a spray with the hose, then dish soap and broom wash. Second pic is after pressure washer.
This stuff is some kind of heavy woven rubberized tarp material. We've used it for ice shack exteriors for years. It lasts over a decade in the sun on a shack.
Muckin_Slusher
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Hung up to dry.
(heavy equipment is soooooo nice. It will change your life)
(heavy equipment is soooooo nice. It will change your life)
Muckin_Slusher
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I had enough synthetic underlay to cover the visible parts. Added the vent tubing on top so I have a second layer of waterproof.
Ripped two 2x6x12 in half and put them on as strapping. I left 12 inch overhang front and rear. The sides should get about 5 inches of overhang, so this shack shouldn't see much weathering from rain.
That front peak overhang is just begging for an oxygen bottle bell.
Ripped two 2x6x12 in half and put them on as strapping. I left 12 inch overhang front and rear. The sides should get about 5 inches of overhang, so this shack shouldn't see much weathering from rain.
That front peak overhang is just begging for an oxygen bottle bell.
barrelroll
Red Skull Member
Love the vent bag roof, your ice shack isn't the first I've heard of with vent bag on it.
Muckin_Slusher
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Great stuff for tree stands too. We make 4x8 platforms with a 4x4 "phone booth" covered in vent bag.
I dug out some old pics, you can see some shacks made with those plastic shed connector kits they used to sell that uses 2x2 wood. (The angled walls are a dead giveaway.)
Covered in vent.
Also found one from when my truck was newer. This was my fishing setup when I only had one sled (no family). I worked through college at an aluminum fabrication shop so I built the sleigh, truck bumper and roof rack while I was there.
I doubt current tailgates would take that load.
Muckin_Slusher
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Why isn't stainless singlewall stove pipe (flue liner) more common?
We had a local sheetmetal guy who was awesome and made all our stovepipe in house. Old timer and he's dead now.
I'm thinking about buying a sheet and making my own. Should be pretty easy, right?
I want to exit through a wall, and add a cleanout tee outside (the outside elbow always fills with soot).
Would be cleaner and simpler to go straight out through the roof (and better draft!) so I may roll that idea around some more. Then I wouldn't be fabricobbling fuckin 6 inch elbows and tees.
We had a local sheetmetal guy who was awesome and made all our stovepipe in house. Old timer and he's dead now.
I'm thinking about buying a sheet and making my own. Should be pretty easy, right?
I want to exit through a wall, and add a cleanout tee outside (the outside elbow always fills with soot).
Would be cleaner and simpler to go straight out through the roof (and better draft!) so I may roll that idea around some more. Then I wouldn't be fabricobbling fuckin 6 inch elbows and tees.
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Muckin_Slusher
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Updated the layout. The original wasn't working out when we mocked it up.
New setup will be like my original, which works well. Stove beside the door (they both take up space, but if you stick them close together they take up the same space).
Purple is upper bunk 24 inches wide and might be made to tilt up a bit as it normally won't be used. Pink is lower 39 inch wide bunk. Green is door, red is wood stove.
Blue is optional bed for forth person, won't be a permanent thing.
The eaves are going to have a 4 inch overhang, and the end walls are going to be 12 inch overhang. Stove at this location gives option to chimney out either wall, or straight up.
New setup will be like my original, which works well. Stove beside the door (they both take up space, but if you stick them close together they take up the same space).
Purple is upper bunk 24 inches wide and might be made to tilt up a bit as it normally won't be used. Pink is lower 39 inch wide bunk. Green is door, red is wood stove.
Blue is optional bed for forth person, won't be a permanent thing.
The eaves are going to have a 4 inch overhang, and the end walls are going to be 12 inch overhang. Stove at this location gives option to chimney out either wall, or straight up.
Muckin_Slusher
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Ok. I'm on board with that. Nice and simple and light. It'll solve a few different problems, and I already have one length 36 inch of stainless pipe, so that'll go through the roof, and just use the black stuff inside.
Now, how do I flash it?
This is the stuff I'm using. Standard 7/8 corrugated roofing steel.
I've done one in the past for my shed, and was able to put a flashing on it, then another panel on top that went right up under the ridge cap.
Actual chimney flashings are made for 6 inch insulated chimney, so the smallest they get is about 8 or 10 inch holes. I guess I'm looking for a galvanized steel flashing for smaller pipes. Not looking forward to beating it into this profile, and even if I do, that's gonna shrink it and turn it into a pretzl.
I need Ron Covell!
Also, I've tried the red silicone "high temp" caulking before on these things, and the temps they see is too much for that stuff...
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