What's new
By:
Filters

Canadian Ice Shack Build (the sequel).

Neat (but pricey!)

I've used the rubber/lead flashings for poop pipe vent before. That one is similar, but all metal.

I was wondering how they got stainless to be "dead soft" and they didn't. The base is aluminum.

I think I'm gonna walk around the hardware store tomorrow and see what's cheap that I can spend a whole day fiddle-fucking with. :homer:
 
So I had a think last night.

A couple of 45 elbows inside and I should be able to get the flashing near the peak and tuck it under the ridge cap and still keep the stove where it is. Then for the bottom of the flashing I've got that foamy closure strips stuff. I guess I could even cheat a little more and use flat roofing steel to extend the flashing up to the ridge cap, just bend the edges down a bit to line up with the corrugations.
 
Flashings are unobtainium apparently.

I even talked to the 80 year old contractor/hardware store owner (who is super knowledgeable and helpful) and he told me that what I want doesn't exist. Selkirk stuff is huge (6 inch chimney is 10 inches because of the insulation).

I went home and googled b-vent flashings and think that's what I want.

Took this pic of my old shed-port roof. That's a 6 inch stainless singlewall pipe. Pretty sure I got that flashing from the old time tinbanger who's dead now.

I've got a friend going to the city tomorrow who is gonna look for one.

thumbnail_IMG_1032.jpg
 
No progress today, getting ready to attend a wedding (not mine luckily).

Lifted off the roof and laid out the new floor pattern. Cooled is the wood stove. That's a 36 inch door. I'll have to make a frame for it.

thumbnail_IMG_1036.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_1039.jpg
 
Selkirk 105825

I think the hole measures pipe size. It's for a 5 inch pipe b-vent, and states the hole is about 5.3 inches, so perfect for "trim to fit"

Now I just gotta get my hands on one.

61SHIVowowL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg
 
So, I'm considering using my old "bush stove" that I built to be a portable stove that packs up and fits in the ski-doo basket.

This shack is going to be pretty well insulated. A smaller stove kinda makes sense. I recall this one is 8x8x12 inches, with a 3.something inch chimney. I could use 3 or 4 inch exhaust pipe single piece out the roof. Also lets me mount the stove square to the shack and less heat shielding, etc.

Just a bit of a pain to junk the wood up smaller.

This one was made so the chimney pieces and cap would fit inside the stove. The door slides and is also the damper.

Edit: I just measured. It's 10x10x17, so it's exactly half by volume of the regular stoves I make. The chimney being 4 inch is also exactly (about) 1/2 the area of the 6 inch chimney, so that matches I guess. Should work well.

RIMG2592.jpg
RIMG2540.jpg
RIMG2584.jpg
RIMG2608.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ordered a 3 foot piece of 304 stainless exhaust pipe 4" diameter and a 12"x12" piece of stainless plate 2mm thick.

Gonna make a hole in the plate and stick the pipe through and weld. That' will be my roof flashing. It will get tucked under the ridge cap.

So, I've got 308L stainless 0.030 mig wire. I've got the regular 75/25 mig gas, and I've also got a bottle of straight argon. Which do I use to weld this?

Edit: I've also got stainless stick welding rod. Should I use that?

41qcDM3i0SL._SL1001_.jpg
51isvGG76wL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
Decided on 84 inches for the wall height, then realized it's exactly the same as the floor width. Clamped all the wall stuff to keep square, layer of typar where the vapor barrier would normally go, then ringed nails 3/8 rough plywood on top.

The plywood will be the interior substrate, and will be structural since the outside steel siding doesn't have the best shear strength.

Full rough 2x4 for the corners for strength and for nailing surface.

P9063952.JPG
P9063953.JPG
P9063954.JPG
 
Notched out the plywood for the trusses. I was a little long on the plywood, so instead of cutting it all down 1/4 inch I made plastic shims for the trusses to sit on, screwed in place. I'll be chopping 2x2 or 3x3 aluminum tubing 2 inches long to make corner gussets. It'll be a neat place to hang stuff (will make sense once installed).

I'm happy with how the plywood goes right up to the ceiling, no need for trim. If I had been forward thinking enough I would have skipped the plywood on the end trusses so I could finish plywood right up the gable ends. Way too much trouble to destroy them now (with all those ringed nails!).

thumbnail_IMG_1079.jpg


Bought fuckup windows for cheap. They didn't have nailing flanges, so I came up with this to mount them. In the middles I used squares of duct sheetmetal.

thumbnail_IMG_1084.jpg
 
Never built an exterior door jamb (or an interior jamb) so we had a bit of a learning curver.

I routered out the hinge spots and went extra in the corners because I thought the hingers had squared corners there. They didn't so now it just looks sloppy, but I now see why door hinges are curved on one side and square on other.

thumbnail_IMG_1085.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_1088.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_1092.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_1093.jpg
 
For the flashing for the pipe I would have used a piece of TPO rubber and lots of urethane sealant. Cut a hole in the middle and slide it over. Seal around the pipe with urethane and where it meets the roof. Use a hose clamp around the TPO and pipe for good measure.

I know very little about flashing a pipe but I did see this style of flashing on a 4” pipe that went through a roof last week. Roof was flat TPO though.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Ordered a 3 foot piece of 304 stainless exhaust pipe 4" diameter and a 12"x12" piece of stainless plate 2mm thick.

Gonna make a hole in the plate and stick the pipe through and weld. That' will be my roof flashing. It will get tucked under the ridge cap.

So, I've got 308L stainless 0.030 mig wire. I've got the regular 75/25 mig gas, and I've also got a bottle of straight argon. Which do I use to weld this?

Edit: I've also got stainless stick welding rod. Should I use that?
Click to expand...
all of the stainless that I've welded with stainless filler has been tig, so straight argon
but all the stainless that I've welded with mild steel filler (a lot more of this) has been mig with some 75/25 but mostly straight co2

whatever you use with your stainless filler be sure and pickle it with acid so it doesn't rust despite being stainless
even if you use the stick rod (which I've also used but I don't like it, since if you turn the amps up enough to see what you're doing past the heavy slag you'll have the rod glowing before half of it is burnt)
 
[486] said:
all of the stainless that I've welded with stainless filler has been tig, so straight argon
but all the stainless that I've welded with mild steel filler (a lot more of this) has been mig with some 75/25 but mostly straight co2

whatever you use with your stainless filler be sure and pickle it with acid so it doesn't rust despite being stainless
even if you use the stick rod (which I've also used but I don't like it, since if you turn the amps up enough to see what you're doing past the heavy slag you'll have the rod glowing before half of it is burnt)
Click to expand...
Thanks. Why is life so hard?

Plan now is to use the rod. Any need for shielding gas on the back side?

Recommendations on something easy to get for pickling?
 
Last edited:
Muckin_Slusher said:
Thanks. Why is life so hard?

Plan now is to use the rod. Any need for shielding gas on the back side?

Recommendations on something easy to get for pickling?
Click to expand...
muriatic acid

oh yeah the back side and the inside of the pipe does need shielding gas
underside of the flashing would be easy to stick a piece of angle iron or whatever on, but inside the tube just use whatever doesn't have oxygen, co2 works good
 
[486] said:
muriatic acid

oh yeah the back side and the inside of the pipe does need shielding gas
underside of the flashing would be easy to stick a piece of angle iron or whatever on, but inside the tube just use whatever doesn't have oxygen, co2 works good
Click to expand...
I got some of this stuff, but the website says it's not a pickle paste or passivation compound.

Guess it just makes it pretty?

thumbnail_image0.jpg
 
Better shots of how the windows are mounted.

They're flush with the inside, and stick out just right for the J-trim on the outside. I read the instructions after so I shouldn't have put the upper shims. They don't touch the window, so it'll be fine...

P9093956.JPG
P9093957.JPG
 
Insulation is half done. Poly-Iso with the fiberglass facing (R-board). I like it a lot more than the foil shit.

P9093960.JPG
P9093962.JPG


Decided on a third interior window, just above the bottom bunk. I'm dreaming of the airflow on hot summer nights.

P9093966.JPG


I like how the ceiling turned out. Nice and tight.

P9093967.JPG
 
Java230 said:
Why not an off the shelf pipe boot?
Click to expand...
I only found those red silicone ones for high temp (400-500 F). Lots of varying opinions about them and how long they last.

You make a good point though, now that I've committed to using the smaller pipe, and have a flat piece I should check them out again.
 
Trimmed off the vent bag and tyvek. I wrapped the upper corners with all-round since there's no traditional double top plate to tie the walls together.

First time working with fiberglass polyiso (R-bord).

I like it. It's way tougher than the foil faced stuff. Walls got 2 inch. Floor got 1.5 inch.

Steel siding should be in next week.

thumbnail_IMG_1114.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_1115.jpg
 
Poly iso is good. Looses r value faster in cold, but starts higher than other foam also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh