Blew the HG on my 455

[fordguy]

Lower hose collapsing/sucked shut at constant engine speed?

no, not at all

 

[M92PV4U]

Went up to 240 on the fwy and stayed there till i got home

center top of radiator 240 degrees
center bottom 140 degrees
upper hose 235
lower hose 195

water pump?

if center bottom of rad is a nice 140, seems like radiator is doing OK?

I have a new waterpump, but havent read about the clearancing thing. Also thermostat leaking from the gasket, I dont think its the right gasket for the edelbrock

Have you ever changed the thermostat?
I had a truck do similar things and some dumbass installed the thermostat upside down .

 

[fordguy]

Have you ever changed the thermostat?
I had a truck do similar things and some dumbass installed the thermostat upside down .

I just changed it yesterday, went to a 180 from a 195

Still went to 240 on the highway

never overheats in town tho

 

[TanTJJim]

Went up to 240 on the fwy and stayed there till i got home

center top of radiator 240 degrees
center bottom 140 degrees
upper hose 235
lower hose 195

water pump?

if center bottom of rad is a nice 140, seems like radiator is doing OK?

I have a new waterpump, but havent read about the clearancing thing. Also thermostat leaking from the gasket, I dont think its the right gasket for the edelbrock

That 140 degree spot likely indicates a partially plugged radiator. Could certainly explain why it cools okay at light load in town but overheats on the highway.

 

[fordguy]

Thanks, I will start with the rad then!

 

[CarterKraft]

Yeah 140 spot is zero flow?

A fully functional radiator has approximately 10* delta T so when you see those wild inlet/outlet temps you aren't moving the water through it.

 

[arse_sidewards]

A fully functional radiator has approximately 10* delta T so when you see those wild inlet/outlet temps you aren't moving the water through it.

How true is this in a system with a thermostat? The coolant might be in there a fairly long time if the thermostat is barely open, which is the case most of the time on an engine that isn't running all out.

 

[CarterKraft]

How true is this in a system with a thermostat? The coolant might be in there a fairly long time if the thermostat is barely open, which is the case most of the time on an engine that isn't running all out.

Well at 240 engine coolant the thermostat should be fully open.

Only assuming "good" thermostat cause he said he already replaced it.

 

[fordguy]

Well at 240 engine coolant the thermostat should be fully open.

Only assuming "good" thermostat cause he said he already replaced it.

Problem existed with old 195, new 180 made in Israel, going to go with thermostat is out of equation

Not losing coolant, so will keep chasing the cooling system for now

 

[CarterKraft]

Also 10* deltaT may not be completely accurate for his application however,

When the engine is at 240 and the inlet is at 195 it's actually not cooling, the thermostat is wide open (180* ) and the engine water inlet is already above that.
I'm making a lot of assumptions... But the proof is there, cruising at highway speeds fan is not really part of the program.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Well at 240 engine coolant the thermostat should be fully open.

I meant like normal people with functioning cooling systems trying to decide if they need more radiator or fan by pulling over with the temp gun in hand after a hard pull, not him.

 

[6869704x4]

This thread woke up some brain cells

 

[CarterKraft]

I meant like normal people with functioning cooling systems trying to decide if they need more radiator or fan by pulling over with the temp gun in hand after a hard pull, not him.

Trust me I've had similar questions
Even my own elcamino thread I was trying to "scientifically" determine how much radiator I had, and if I needed more.

I really couldn't figure out how to math it so I got a bigger one than would fit

Someone like Hydrodynamic can probably tell you the specifics of deltaT, radiator size and ambient air temperature but I are not that smart.

 

[fordguy]

I see a LOT of different radiator sizes depending in website - design looks like they just "sit" inside the rubber pockets?

I thought griffin was a good brand, but lot of reviews say leaks? Cold Case?

Honestly Ive been researching rads but hitting some dead ends and moving in to the next thing (have Baer 13" 4 piston BBK coming)

 

[M92PV4U]

Bought a radiator from here, about 2yo no problems yet.

OFFICIAL AlloyWorks Store I Radiators & Auto Parts

OFFICIAL AlloyWorks Store I Radiators & Auto Parts

www.alloyworksplus.com

 

[CarterKraft]

Cold case is some brands sister company?
Griffin is good.

Hard to go wrong these days over OEM brass shot IMO.

I put a all-star universal in my junk and unless you like to fabricate I don't think I'd do that again

 

[Ummduh]

Is this a Pontiac 455?

I really don't know shit about these engines but I do remember reading how some of the Ford design decisions came to be, some of those things came from Buick and Pontiac designs because the designer came from there
So that got me thinking and I googled a pic of the front dress of a Pontiac 455..
So a common issue with sbf's is replacing the water pump and not putting the separator plate back on. This causes a lot of overheating issues because the pump can't effectively pump the water.



It sure looks like there's a plate between the pump and timing cover. Is there supposed to be one on yours, and is it there?

Edit: yup, looks like there should be a plate

https://butlerperformance.com/n-13390-pontiac-water-pumps.html

 

[fordguy]

Ill check, thanks!

 

[fordguy]

New pump on, adjusted the plate for tighter clearance, some pitting on plate and timing cover, hopefully thr paper gasket + permstech waterpump rtv do the job, I didnt gobble it on though, just a nice thin layer.

While putting the hoses back on, new radiator got nicked after it tapped thr body sheetmetal a couple times

Looks like just a dent, damn that must be thin. Should I be concerned? Alum JB weld, take it to a pro (if theres even any that still do this?) or run it?

 

[M92PV4U]

Looks like just a dent, damn that must be thin. Should I be concerned? Alum JB weld, take it to a pro (if theres even any that still do this?) or run it?

I would just keep an eye on it for a while.

 

[CarterKraft]

New pump on, adjusted the plate for tighter clearance, some pitting on plate and timing cover, hopefully thr paper gasket + permstech waterpump rtv do the job, I didnt gobble it on though, just a nice thin layer.

While putting the hoses back on, new radiator got nicked after it tapped thr body sheetmetal a couple times

Looks like just a dent, damn that must be thin. Should I be concerned? Alum JB weld, take it to a pro (if theres even any that still do this?) or run it?

Very thin, probably why they are so effective.

You could put some JB on it or something but I don't think that actually prevent it from leaking. If it didn't leak I don't think I'd mess with it.

 

[fordguy]

I put some radiator JB weld on (supposed to be alum friendly) and ran it.

Drove for 3 hours.today, 80-90 degree weather, gauge between 190-195 the whole time, so I will consider this resolved. Radiator is hot in all spots too (unlike the old one, cool in the middle) so my money is on the clogged rad.

Thanks all

 

[Ummduh]

I put some radiator JB weld on (supposed to be alum friendly) and ran it.

Drove for 3 hours.today, 80-90 degree weather, gauge between 190-195 the whole time, so I will consider this resolved. Radiator is hot in all spots too (unlike the old one, cool in the middle) so my money is on the clogged rad.

Thanks all

So what do you suppose was the issue? Just a general lack of routine care?

Edit:duh, sounds like new radiator

 

[fordguy]

So what do you suppose was the issue? Just a general lack of routine care?

Edit:duh, sounds like new radiator

water pump and radiator looked original, my guess the radiator corroded inside. Would explain good temps at idle and slow speed, and overheating on highway.