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Blew the HG on my 455

Seems kind of high temp for an intake manifold?

everywhere else including upper lower hoses and thermostat was on point

Gauge was not showing overheating. Seat is not mounted, so this is just a little driving around town
 

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fordguy said:
Seems kind of high temp for an intake manifold?

everywhere else including upper lower hoses and thermostat was on point

Gauge was not showing overheating. Seat is not mounted, so this is just a little driving around town
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You're measuring the exhaust crossover.
 
M92PV4U said:
You're measuring the exhaust crossover.
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my buddy just told me that too.

I thought a crossover is de ting at the bottom of the exhaust when you got duals

:homer:

i touched it too, to make sure :homer::homer: it was hot

:homer:
 
does the crossover still work even tho i have headers? Read somewhere eith headers nothing goes back in?
 
fordguy said:
does the crossover still work even tho i have headers? Read somewhere eith headers nothing goes back in?
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I am thinking not related to manifolds, if you had air injection that would effect the manifolds but the exhaust crossover is sealed off via intake gaskets not exhaust manifold.
 
Smog engine stuff. Get rid of all the smog stuff if you can. Not sure how it works on smog era stuff in California.
There's no checks or restrictions here. You can run whatever you want, swap in whatever you want.
72 and later gm had smog pump. You can block the passages in the intake and heads to get rid of it.
 
Ok, so thats not a culprit.

Thanks, Ill continue troubleshooting once I get thr gauge to go over
 
fordguy said:
does the crossover still work even tho i have headers? Read somewhere eith headers nothing goes back in?
Click to expand...
Yes it has to do with the heads.
CarterKraft said:
Something like this?

Pontiac Stainless steel exhaust blockoff intake gasket insert kit EARLY – Tin Indian Performance

www.tinindianperformance.com www.tinindianperformance.com
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These or an aftermarket intake manifold will block it, but there are ports in the heads . That is where the egr goes or the choke with the heat riser.
 
fordguy said:
does the crossover still work even tho i have headers? Read somewhere eith headers nothing goes back in?
Click to expand...

On a GM manifold its just a port from one exhaust port to the opposite head exhaust port. You shove the little metal plate that comes with (some of) them to block off the hole in the gasket. Or in the case of fel pro you get pair or regtangular plates, one sert punched one set solid.

This one solid (grey rectangle);
1721689697566.png


Some don't have any hole'
1721689782040.png


The little hole;
1721689841213.png


Different brand;
1721690290903.png
 
Havent lost any fluid, temp gauge seems.to show ok, maybe was a wire or short.. anyway moving on.. put a new fuel pump but someone used a shorter bolt and stripped that side. Luckily an 8mm is a hair larger, a tap and tightened up very decently

Whats the reason I cant roast tires? Should I throw a wideband o2 on? Or is the shit low compression?
 
fordguy said:
Havent lost any fluid, temp gauge seems.to show ok, maybe was a wire or short.. anyway moving on.. put a new fuel pump but someone used a shorter bolt and stripped that side. Luckily an 8mm is a hair larger, a tap and tightened up very decently

Whats the reason I cant roast tires? Should I throw a wideband o2 on? Or is the shit low compression?
Click to expand...

Uh... It's a shitty old 455 with no compression, likely has blow-by, 2.73 gears, and makes about 128hp to the tires.


Those old boats were tire roasters back when everything was still bias ply and traction wasn't a thing yet.:flipoff2::lmao:
 
fordguy said:
Whats the reason I cant roast tires? Should I throw a wideband o2 on? Or is the shit low compression?
Click to expand...
Are the secondary throttle plates opening on the carb? There's an interlock linkage that prevents them from being opened until the choke is fully off. Poke the air door open with your finger and look down at the throttles when you move the throttle cable to wide open.
 
Actually theres a number of possible reasons. Have you checked the timing? Distributer advancing correctly? Are the secondarys opening up? Are the secondarys vacuum or mechanical? Have you ohmed the plug wires? What are the plugs gapped at?

Again, there are possibly a number of reasons.
 
M92PV4U said:
All reasons the driver has control over. It's his own fault that it won't burn rubber :laughing:.
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the most useless answer in the thread, thanks

Ive never actually timed a car :laughing: on the dakota moving the distributor sets the fuel timing not ignition, so I lack that skill completely. zill thtow some new plugs and wires on it too.
 
have you messed around with the timing or distributor?

I've been doing some research on a stockish mopar 440 i'm buidling and for the AMC360 in my scrambler and it seems like the factory distributor springs are an issue. they are too stiff and prevent max advance until too high of an RPM. I just bought a timing light with tach at HF for $100 https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-timing-light-57678.html to start messing with my 360. now i need to get a spring kit for the Motorcraft distributor.

this guy has some interesting videos that got me to thinking:

 
fordguy said:
the most useless answer in the thread, thanks

Ive never actually timed a car :laughing: on the dakota moving the distributor sets the fuel timing not ignition, so I lack that skill completely. zill thtow some new plugs and wires on it too.
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I never had done it either until I got my truck in 2008, when I was 18. I didn't have internet to help me I read books and service manuals.
 
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