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Best parts for 02 f250 7.3

2big bronco

2big bronco

Og irate
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
188
Messages
4,166
Loc
Prunedale ca
My 02 f250 just closed on 300k and is need of a decent amount of maintenance. Im willing to spend the money to do things right and would like to get another solid reliable 100k worth of big dumb loads out of her.

-Power Steering pump has been slowly taking a dump. Wines sometimes... works better then others sometimes, and leaks.

Whats the best one I can buy for reliability?


-front unit bearings... the ones in there are stock and have never even been looked at. I figure they should be relaced for preventive maintenance. Whats best?

-vacume pump is out... dorman?


- U joints... all stock and no problems. Leave them?
 
Ditch the vacuum pump and convert to hydro-boost.

All power steering pumps are shit. Buy something from with a parts store with a lifetime warranty because you might need to change it 1-3x before you run across a good one that goes 20yr.

Leave the U-joints and carry spares. Having a spare on hand is more important than having new joints installed because new or old you're more likely to pop one doing something stupid than you are to wear one out so fast you can't replace it at your leisure.

Ignore everything related to the axles and keep your eye out for a wide track 60 and S110/130 pair.
 
2big bronco said:
- U joints... all stock and no problems. Leave them?
Click to expand...
300k is a good run. Its easier and cheaper to change them before they go out. Get the solid spicers, not the greaseable ones
If its got a carrier bearing. Good chance the rubber is cracked to hell
 
Last edited:
2big bronco said:
My 02 f250 just closed on 300k and is need of a decent amount of maintenance. Im willing to spend the money to do things right and would like to get another solid reliable 100k worth of big dumb loads out of her.

-Power Steering pump has been slowly taking a dump. Wines sometimes... works better then others sometimes, and leaks.

Whats the best one I can buy for reliability?


-front unit bearings... the ones in there are stock and have never even been looked at. I figure they should be relaced for preventive maintenance. Whats best?

-vacume pump is out... dorman?


- U joints... all stock and no problems. Leave them?
Click to expand...

No advice on power steering pumps other than buy a new one and hope it loves you long time, or get a rebuilt with a lifetime warranty from Vatozone/O'Reilly's and hope you don't have to change them out too often. Mine is getting pretty bad too. If you want to go the bling route, there are conversion kits from a few manufacturers to go to a P-pump.

For wheel bearings, Timken accept no substitutes. You can buy them online for the same price or slightly cheaper than the junk part store brand stuff. I can't believe you still have the stock ones at 300K :eek:

No advice on the vacuum pump.

I would consider changing the u-joints if there's slop or the feel chunky, but if the truck was rarely put in four wheel drive they are probably fine. Spicer non-greaseable if you do change them. When you change out your unit bearings, inspect the spindle bearing surface for wear. It is fairly common to have to replace the stub shafts because the spindle bearing runs dry/gets contaminated and grooves the shaft causing it to all flop around and spin with the unit bearing.

arse_sidewards said:
Ditch the vacuum pump and convert to hydro-boost.
Click to expand...

It's already Hydroboost, the vacuum pump is electric on 7.3Ls and only used for HVAC controls :homer:

EDIT: Damn it, YotaAtieToo beat me to it.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
No advice on power steering pumps other than buy a new one and hope it loves you long time, or get a rebuilt with a lifetime warranty from Vatozone/O'Reilly's and hope you don't have to change them out too often. Mine is getting pretty bad too. If you want to go the bling route, there are conversion kits from a few manufacturers to go to a P-pump.

For wheel bearings, Timken accept no substitutes. You can buy them online for the same price or slightly cheaper than the junk part store brand stuff. I can't believe you still have the stock ones at 300K :eek:

No advice on the vacuum pump.

I would consider changing the u-joints if there's slop or the feel chunky, but if the truck was rarely put in four wheel drive they are probably fine. Spicer non-greaseable if you do change them. When you change out your unit bearings, inspect the spindle bearing surface for wear. It is fairly common to have to replace the stub shafts because the spindle bearing runs dry/gets contaminated and grooves the shaft causing it to all flop around and spin with the unit bearing.



It's already Hydroboost, the vacuum pump is electric on 7.3Ls and only used for HVAC controls :homer:

EDIT: Damn it, YotaAtieToo beat me to it.
Click to expand...


Cool, ill go with timkin.

As for U joints i was specifically thinking the rear driveline, however none of them have ever been done and the hubs have been locked in the last 130k. It also doesnt make any clunking noises or show signs of needing them so.. maybe I stick with the ones that work.

Ive been waiting for years to have to do the front wheel bearings... and turbo and injectors. Guess I got a good one.
 
Just got done changing the oil and atf in the zf6. I was plesantly surprised that at 130k from the last fluid change in the trans it still looked almost new. Ordered up the dorman electric vacume pump on Amazon and about to go see what Vato zone has for a power steering pump.
 
As a guy that packs like a boy scout, I'm always impressed with your "just roll with it" mentality:laughing:

Are you keeping spare parts with you? As far and often as you travel with that I'm thinking Belt , belt tensioner, idler pulley, 2.5 gallons of oil engine oil, 3+ gallons of water, fuel filter, funnels, random pieces of hose, probably a spare hub for the trailer, crank position sensor and tools to change it. If your batteries aren't 100% I'd buy a pair of AGMs and cry about the price for the next 8 years:laughing:

Then tires, a quality plug kit and a quality air compressor that will give you 80psi and reach the trailer.

$10 multi meter that stays in the truck


Edit: I'd be pretty tempted to keep one of the old unit bearings in the truck as a spare:homer:
 
Projectjunkie said:
As a guy that packs like a boy scout, I'm always impressed with your "just roll with it" mentality:laughing:

Are you keeping spare parts with you? As far and often as you travel with that I'm thinking Belt , belt tensioner, idler pulley, 2.5 gallons of oil engine oil, 3+ gallons of water, fuel filter, funnels, random pieces of hose, probably a spare hub for the trailer, crank position sensor and tools to change it. If your batteries aren't 100% I'd buy a pair of AGMs and cry about the price for the next 8 years:laughing:

Then tires, a quality plug kit and a quality air compressor that will give you 80psi and reach the trailer.

$10 multi meter that stays in the truck


Edit: I'd be pretty tempted to keep one of the old unit bearings in the truck as a spare:homer:
Click to expand...
Cam position sensor, 10mm wrench and a gallon of oil. All you need for a long distance trip with a 7.3 if you even mildy keep up with maintenance.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Anyone ever actually see a cam sensor fail? I think that was the most overhyped thing on 7.3s.
Click to expand...
Had one die on my 97 at 320K. They may not die often, but when they do it will be in the worst possible place.
 
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