Barndominium or Shopdominium Steel Building Experience?

[BDK]

There is some good information here I need to consider.

Good idea about moving the stove. I had thought since I am the main cook that I could be looking out over the view if the stove was there.

The french doors on the spare room are because I wanted every room to have access to the outside. I can open up the entire living space that way to get that outside/inside living thing. I also figured I would not need a man door on the shop on that side if I had outside access from that nearby room, and a roll up door on that side of the shop. I understand the benefits of man doors in the shop, so might be adding on to each side.

I have a class A 35' RV and would need it to fit in the shop. Its never been stored outside, is a 2002 and doesn't show its age. Need to keep it that way. I could put a 14x14' door for that one, with the rest 12x10. It sure would open the shop and I don't like closed shops. The shop probably won't be climate controlled to start, but will be heavily insulated.

Originally I had the shop at 60x60, then shortened it a little so it would all fit in a 60x100' space, including the patio. I can always push it out a little more. I don't see much of a build or major work on vehicles in the near future. My off road rig is a project I have been working on for 24 years and now I just use it and fix what breaks. The lift is for vehicle maintenance and repairs. I might get the bug and get a project hot rod if a 70 Chevelle dropped into my lap someday, but that's a big maybe.

Solar with batteries and utility electrical for backup is in the plans. I want it to be as self-sufficient as possible, with the exception of propane for cooking because I don't like electric stoves. The building costs are more, but not having any water or electrical bills would be a plus. After paying $250 a month for water here in San Diego, I am happy to pay the cost for solar. Run the solar to include the well pump. Pump it to a buried tank above the house during the daytime. Property also has phone lines to it. The cell service in that area is spotty, but I got a couple bars of 5G towards the high side of the property so I think I can boost that and have decent service.

There will be a mud room, bathroom between the shop and living areas, but I do like to pee outside. With 46.5 acres, I could pick a different pee spot every day. I was also planning on a dog wash either in the mud room or in the shop. I like the idea of a bench, and hadn't thought of that. I would have figured it out the first time I used the room to remove shop shoes.

I would also have all the living space and outdoor space be polished concrete. Not sure if I would stain it or leave it natural but if they are the same floors, it helps it look like one big space instead of several separate spaces. Radiant floor heating throughout the living area, maybe geothermal heat pump?


If you have suggestions, don't mind if they are not budget friendly. I will decide what I really need. First I need to do some dirt work and a couple of RV pads. Spend a few weeks on the land figuring out where I want the building and how I want to incorporate the view into the building. Figure out where I want to be sitting on the porch enjoying my morning coffee. One of my friends who I showed the plans to asked me where the front door was. I told him there really wasn't one, just french doors all the way around, light and airy. I don't anticipate random people opening the gate and walking 100 yards up my driveway to knock on the door.

 

[BDK]

Even if you aren't in the city with city inspections, or have a loan with bank required inspections, The wall needs to be a fire wall, just out of safety concerns, and you may want to sell the place eventually.

I would see if it is possible to make that wall out of cinder-block wall, it may meet the fire wall requirement and deaden the sound.

The way I want to roof line to change at the living quarters, its almost like two steel buildings joined together. Running a steel panel insulated wall between them should act as a fire wall. No city, no loans, just Mohave County regs. Its going to be willed to my daughter. By then, she might have her own house on the property though. Never know what the future holds, so it will be to whatever codes are required.

 

[rugger]

I'd love to find an existing building on property to build out as I have time and resource. I'm trying to be done borrowing money.

 

[BDK]

I'd love to find an existing building on property to build out as I have time and resource. I'm trying to be done borrowing money.

I looked for a already built building for a few years, but I think I might be too set in what I want for that. Decided to find a untouched piece of property and start from scratch. I know this way costs more but it allows me to have as few compromises as possible.

I really like the open floor plan of the master. If I need to take a private shit I can use one of the other bathrooms. Maybe I could put the toilet in its own little enclosed space, but probably not. A friend of mine has a master like this one but even more open (no walls between bedroom and closet/changing area) and its stunning. I don't like doors that much, which is why I want hanging sliding doors for the master and office. The second bedroom is going to have a traditional door because it will be used for the occasional guests. The bathroom attached to that room will have a pocket door for access from that room, and from the great room. Office will have a hide-a-bed couch for additional sleeping quarters. No bathtubs in the house because no one uses them. I will have a spa or pool/spa for soaking so no need for a tub inside. If I put in a pool, I might need a outside shower and/or a pool room that could be turned into a sleeping area.

Most of my friends and family have their own RV's, which is why I am planning on a couple of RV pads with water and electrical on the property. The RV pads will make it more likely for them to invite themselves, which is fine with me. The plan is to have a place that I don't want or need to leave very often. Maybe a once a week run into town, or boating on the river, or off-road trip. I do travel but its mostly RV to off-road areas type traveling. If I want to go hiking, I can go right up the canyon into the mountains. If I want to go shooting I can do that on the property (am planning on a small 100 yard rifle range). I am a solitary person who likes his privacy (maybe that's why my wife is always irritated with me), but also doesn't mind guests if that makes any sense. This property suits me because its surrounded by state and BLM land, and its above all the other properties in the area so its very private, except for the occasional cow and wildlife. The most people I could ever see staying there at once would be 6-8 for the occasional hosting of my small off-road group. My best friend lives in Idaho, but he has already stated this place is to be his RV winter quarters. He's all excited because he is a metal detecting nut, I found quite bit of quartz on the property and there is a old mine up on the mountain in the state land. He asked me not to do any shooting until we detect both parcels.

 

[2big bronco]

I accidentally posted this in the off grid thread...

https://www.redfin.com/CO/Fort-Lupton/3706-County-Road-29-80621/home/172388565

 

[BDK]

I accidentally posted this in the off grid thread...

https://www.redfin.com/CO/Fort-Lupton/3706-County-Road-29-80621/home/172388565

Why is that 725K? It must be the dirt.

 

[Johann]

Even if you aren't in the city with city inspections, or have a loan with bank required inspections, The wall needs to be a fire wall, just out of safety concerns, and you may want to sell the place eventually.

I would see if it is possible to make that wall out of cinder-block wall, it may meet the fire wall requirement and deaden the sound.

Good point and prudent whether required or not! But to dampen sound you need to limit vibration transmission. There are isolation materials that can be added. I dimly remember some framing members for home theater walls made to do that to keep sound from the rest of the house.

 

[Curbkrawler]

xWhatever

Almost did a 10' gate on my new fence last year. Only thought about the 8.5' wide trailer, then I flipped the Ram tow mirrors out and realized it's like 9'8" wide then. 12' is good enough, but gets tight every once in a while since the hinges take away a few inches.

Shop has a 10' high by 14' wide door and glad it's wide given the funky approach down the alley and around the house. But it was all here before I moved in.

Yep... throw a truck camper with electric jacks in there as well. I’ve rubbed both damn sides not paying attention.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

There is some good information here I need to consider.

Good idea about moving the stove. I had thought since I am the main cook that I could be looking out over the view if the stove was there.

The french doors on the spare room are because I wanted every room to have access to the outside. I can open up the entire living space that way to get that outside/inside living thing. I also figured I would not need a man door on the shop on that side if I had outside access from that nearby room, and a roll up door on that side of the shop. I understand the benefits of man doors in the shop, so might be adding on to each side.

I have a class A 35' RV and would need it to fit in the shop. Its never been stored outside, is a 2002 and doesn't show its age. Need to keep it that way. I could put a 14x14' door for that one, with the rest 12x10. It sure would open the shop and I don't like closed shops. The shop probably won't be climate controlled to start, but will be heavily insulated.

Originally I had the shop at 60x60, then shortened it a little so it would all fit in a 60x100' space, including the patio. I can always push it out a little more. I don't see much of a build or major work on vehicles in the near future. My off road rig is a project I have been working on for 24 years and now I just use it and fix what breaks. The lift is for vehicle maintenance and repairs. I might get the bug and get a project hot rod if a 70 Chevelle dropped into my lap someday, but that's a big maybe.

Solar with batteries and utility electrical for backup is in the plans. I want it to be as self-sufficient as possible, with the exception of propane for cooking because I don't like electric stoves. The building costs are more, but not having any water or electrical bills would be a plus. After paying $250 a month for water here in San Diego, I am happy to pay the cost for solar. Run the solar to include the well pump. Pump it to a buried tank above the house during the daytime. Property also has phone lines to it. The cell service in that area is spotty, but I got a couple bars of 5G towards the high side of the property so I think I can boost that and have decent service.

There will be a mud room, bathroom between the shop and living areas, but I do like to pee outside. With 46.5 acres, I could pick a different pee spot every day. I was also planning on a dog wash either in the mud room or in the shop. I like the idea of a bench, and hadn't thought of that. I would have figured it out the first time I used the room to remove shop shoes.

I would also have all the living space and outdoor space be polished concrete. Not sure if I would stain it or leave it natural but if they are the same floors, it helps it look like one big space instead of several separate spaces. Radiant floor heating throughout the living area, maybe geothermal heat pump?


If you have suggestions, don't mind if they are not budget friendly. I will decide what I really need. First I need to do some dirt work and a couple of RV pads. Spend a few weeks on the land figuring out where I want the building and how I want to incorporate the view into the building. Figure out where I want to be sitting on the porch enjoying my morning coffee. One of my friends who I showed the plans to asked me where the front door was. I told him there really wasn't one, just french doors all the way around, light and airy. I don't anticipate random people opening the gate and walking 100 yards up my driveway to knock on the door.

this is my generic when people ask me what I'd do if I built again list. This is for an area that gets cold in the winter so some might not apply to your geo area. Also its for stick built homes not a metal half shop/house thing.

[Wood blocking in walls where you will wall mount stuff; TVs, TP holders, Towel racks. No more accidentally knocking it off the wall.

Pre-wire for under cabinet lighting in the kitchen all to one switch.

Under roof eve outlets if you're into decorating for holidays with lights.

Under window outlets for electric candles as well if that's the wifes thing. Wire all those outlets back to a single location in basement/utility room for easy control.

Pick a location for network stuff. wire the single coax there. Put an outlet in for all things tech in there. Then pull smurf tubes from that location to attic and basement. In the future this will save mad cash as tech changes and you need to pull some magical new wire we haven't thought of yet to make your xbox 6780 work.

Prewire for roof solar or put conduit in the walls for this purpose. It will keep the god ugly conduit they slap on the sides of houses from ruining the look of the house. minimal cost to put conduit in now with walls open.

Garage with hot/cold faucet in it. praise be whomever thought of that first.

Outlets in closets at correct shelf heights. For charging shavers, dyson vacuum, etc. keeps the clutter from the counters and in the open. esp in the bathroom.

Spray caulk for house air tightness - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpTdrVESqJg&t=9s

You doing a NG generator? tankless NG heater? Size your meter now for anything you might do in the future if you're getting natural gas.

NG outlet where grill might go. nothing sucks more than trying to grill and the stupid tank is empty.

Ethernet; wire your house and garage with a handful of ethernet runs to ubiquiti access points. Run some ethernet to the garage too for an access point in there.

I would highly suggest pulling ethernet to outside camera locations in the eves of the house. up high, sheltered from weather. good coverage. POE powered cameras are the shit now. (as in really good)

Heated bathroom floor. If you're doing this in the master size a bit extra to also heat the floor of the shower. This will dry it the shower floor out and reduce issues in there.

Garage sub panel big enough to charge electric cars. I'd pull 100a personally to a 2 car family just for charging. if i was the handy type i'd pull another sub panel to the garage for garage circuits I can't think of yet.

Outside spigots should get 3/4" supplies for actual good flow rates.

Not sure on basement but if possible go an extra foot deep. the height is never a bad thing down there. if I could do it over i'd go full 10' height to the finished ceiling and then another foot above that to the joists for mechanical.

edit:

Maine? heated garage floor. hell heated sidewalks and driveway too. water loops fed by a mix of propane/ng boiler and a wood boiler. so you can feed it wood when you are there but still go on vacation and the house won't freeze up.

a bathroom with shower that has a door directly into the garage. nothing sucks more than getting your master shower dirty as hell cause you were working outside. also serves as the outside bathroom. no taking boots off to go take a #2 is really nice.

I can't believe i forgot this one: bidet outlet and nit light in the bathrooms. its so nice to not get blasted with the sun for the 2am piss - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-rad...let/1000272629

pex home run plumbing a manifold for all fixtures. no joints between manifold and fixture. 3/8" lines for sinks.

led compatible dimmer switches on every lighting circuit in the house.

orient the house on the lot for optimal sun glare/warming for your uses. ex: nothing sucks more than a living room with a view you have to keep the curtains pulled on to watch tv when you normally watch it.

4x3 90 so the bathroom tilers can tile directly up against it. then seal it with silicone before you put the closet flange on the inside. if the toilet ever leaks it won't rot the wood below it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-4-...HD43/100345726

hard pipe for all toilet supplies. they'll last a lifetime.

if you're on city water put 2 ball valve cut offs before the meter. lord knows when you need to turn the water off one will leak.

https://leaksmart.com/ consider automatic leak detection as well. esp with the freezing that maine experiences.

all tile work should be done on a decoupling membrane/waterproofing. i'm partial to schluter products. plus you can embed electric heating into it. you should totally heat the kitchen floor.

zip system for exterior sheathing. standing seam metal roof.

quartz is a much better kitchen counter product than granite. no sealing, more durable.

his and her shower systems in the shower. i know my wife likes her temp at "surface of the sun" and i enjoy a nice cold shower on hot summer days. with two systems our temp settings are the same. bonus two people can shower at the same time. put a linear drain in and make the shower floor curbless.

panasonic whisper bathroom exhaust fans are the best there is. size them correctly. get the one with the humidity/motion sensor. wire it to a switch in a closet that is labeled. and then just leave it on all the time. let the automation keep your bathroom mold free.

heated towel rack. put the outlet in the right location for a hard wire replacement.

put the laundry where the bedrooms are. waterproof the entire damn space. tile up the walls and everything. put a 1" curb on the entrance. if a line ever blows/leaks it won't ruin the house.

strongly strongly suggest putting the uponor fire sprinkler system in any house built. https://www.uponor-usa.com/residential-fire-safety.aspx

a "set tub" / Slop sink / concrete bowl in the garage bathroom and/or in the garage itself. a sink you won't give a shit about. Also make sure the trap is 2" and easily serviced. cause lord knows you're gona put stuff down it you shouldn't be.

if we're talking unlimited budget this is my heating cooling solution: HVAC handlers for the main areas/floor/hallways. HVAC solution for bedrooms. I'm partial to mini split cassettes in the ceiling.
For heat: Nat gas/propane heated floors throughout the home. Air handlers will get a water insert into their plenum.
For heat sources for the water loop: geo thermal, wood boiler, ng boiler.
Program them all together with priority. aka pull from the wood boiler first. if it can't keep up add in geothermal. if that ain't working then first up the NG boiler.

Glued deck to reduce squeaking. this may be code in some areas. also tongue and groove decking. If you hate noise put a double layer down with green glue noise reducer between it.

HVAC lines should be rigid metal ducting. avoid flex at all costs for trunks. last 10' is flex to absorb sound.
put the filter in an easily serviced area as well.

you want a HRV in the colder climate since your house is so tight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RtbwkI2lH0

In the basement you want an interior french drain to a sump pit with 2 sump pumps in it.
on the exterior you want downspouts to go to their own drainage system.

6" gutters or bust. bigger is better with them. also get the big mouth downspout kit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4YlGPPl204

Whole house generator. Preferably NG. then propane. then finally diesel. storing diesel long term is not ideal for a home owner. If you do propane bury the tanks. 2 - 1000 gallons. lets you buy in bulk and save. do a whole 200a transfer switch. or a 400a if you got dual 200a panels. frankly you probably will. added via u/Maehlice

as i stood on my heated bathroom floor this morning it dawned on me i missed something in here. when you put in an electric heated tile floor ALWAYS put in a second floor temp probe. you can't put these in after the fact so if the one unit goes you'll be SOL. spend the minimal extra money and get a second one put in when tiling.

one thing for you that i think may help is pour a foundation slug near the main door to the welding area. put a jib crane in that location that clears under the open garage door and can pick things up from outside the shop. then clearance to swing around to the weld table area. life changing from the few guys farm shops i'd see with it. really really handy if you're into heavy stuff.


Also this guys channel has a ton of walk throughs of what people are doing for ideas something that sticks out to me is you're not even talking about a second floor in the living area. why not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF_Ka4Rjxzw


edit: some more thoughts after reading your comment:

Get a 6 burner stove. the 30" ones suck if you're into cooking. 36" is a good bump in size without getting nuts. tons of options in there.

Not a lot of storage space. no mechanical room? no conditioned general closets really.


no Man doors in the shop area? i'd put one right at the end of the porch near the blue truck at min. wide as you can. 40" is what I would do. makes carrying stuff in and out a lot easier.

I can't stress enough the importance of lighting. do it right. dimmers. all LED. mix of 6 and 4" rounds is what i'd do. spots are nice as well for hall areas. with your open floor layout you can define spaces by lighting.

consider a lean too 3 sided area for RV and boat storage off the right side/back


you asked about a fire pit setup with built in seating. watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWWEyCl7qL8 its the build on the above linked one's fire pit area. to give you an idea of whats involved to go built in. personally i'd run some shop air to the bottom of the pit to supercharge the fire.

 

[BDK]

Thanks, very cool stuff

The back wall of the shop would be all storage space, 60 feet worth and as high as the ceiling. Stuff up on top would be long term storage. Mechanical room would be added if necessary, probably on the outside of the back wall or outside on the wall with only one roll up door. LED lights are a must, I usually put in twice what I think I will need with dimmers.

I have watched a bunch of videos of that barndominium dude

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

Thanks, very cool stuff

The back wall of the shop would be all storage space, 60 feet worth and as high as the ceiling. Stuff up on top would be long term storage. Mechanical room would be added if necessary, probably on the outside of the back wall or outside on the wall with only one roll up door. LED lights are a must, I usually put in twice what I think I will need with dimmers.

I have watched a bunch of videos of that barndominium dude

no welding or grinding in the shop expected?

 

[BDK]

In one corner, which would end up in the entire bay closest to the living quarters. Where the lift is going to be. I was looking at shop dividers I saw like these to keep the boat and RV clean, but really I have been welding and grinding in my little 3-car garage with 3 cars in is for many years. The storage is as far away as I can get from the work area. I also do wood working from time to time and have a Shop Smith. I would probably roll that outside or pull the RV out when doing that stuff.

I'm not sure if I would even get a new air compressor. My old one went out about three years ago and I haven't missed it much. If I get a plasma cutter, I'll think about it then. 90% my tools are electric.

 

[BDK]

Escrow closed one day early today. I got the well report yesterday morning with the labs. The water is clean and clear, and can be consumed right out of the well. 18.5GPM steady.

I modified my building plans a little. I put a island in the kitchen with a overhanging top for bar seating instead of a counter, still not sure if I like it this way but it makes it easier to get in and out of the kitchen. Also stretched out the side kitchen counter so it can be used as a cocktail or food serving area. Added a bench in the mud room. Put a man door on one side of the shop. Decided I wanted to keep the office on the front of the house for the view. Decided to keep the french doors in the spare room for access, light, and air flow. Thinking about how I want the building to sit on the property, I might have to swap the front and rear of the shop. Moved the lift back a little so it won't interfere with walking through the shop with a vehicle on it. Changed all the roll up doors to 12' width.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

If you're still looking for advice:

-invert the entire living quarters so your man entry from garage is a short walk to the mud room/house entry. without a defined front door, the shop man door will become the natural entry point. and make that door 42" wide. good commercial steel door IMO. you might get away with just flipping the kitchen and mudroom entry area. trying to get the entry to the living closer to the exterior door. if you swap the front and rear of the shop you accomplish the same thing.

- I like the longer counter on the wall in the kitchen. if you can swing it, extend it another 2'.

-the kitchen table placement kinda ruining paths in the house. you for sure doing a round? not a rectangle?

- I like the island. i'd rotate is 90 degrees. so you can eat and watch TV at it. right now your back is to the main entertaining area.

- stack the washer/dryer, put the slope sink in the garage right behind the entry door, move the bench to the freed up space.

- im not a fan of a master bathroom without a door. difficult to keep humidity in control if your wife showers like my wife.

- still not a lot of indoor closets. ex: where you gona keep a vacuum? linens for beds/baths?

-have you considered the cool glass garage roll up doors vs bi fold exterior doors? if you're going for that I live in an auto shop building look it can assist.

 

[xr-nut]

I modified my building plans a little.

Congrats on getting closed and a day early! Now its time to get to work on the building. I like your plan and one thing I would change is the mud room / laundry area. Flip it to the other side of the kitchen, putting your laundry closer to where the laundry is generated. I moved ours in our 2-story to a closet by the master up stairs and it was the best thing I have done since marrying her 28 years ago! Just my .02. I am watching along here, thinking of ways I will have to change the building to work in a 4 season area. Cold as balls here in winter and hotter than hell in the summer. Its a humidity thing they say.

 

[BDK]

If you're still looking for advice:

-invert the entire living quarters so your man entry from garage is a short walk to the mud room/house entry. without a defined front door, the shop man door will become the natural entry point. and make that door 42" wide. good commercial steel door IMO. you might get away with just flipping the kitchen and mudroom entry area. trying to get the entry to the living closer to the exterior door. if you swap the front and rear of the shop you accomplish the same thing.

- I like the longer counter on the wall in the kitchen. if you can swing it, extend it another 2'.

-the kitchen table placement kinda ruining paths in the house. you for sure doing a round? not a rectangle?

- I like the island. i'd rotate is 90 degrees. so you can eat and watch TV at it. right now your back is to the main entertaining area.

- stack the washer/dryer, put the slope sink in the garage right behind the entry door, move the bench to the freed up space.

- im not a fan of a master bathroom without a door. difficult to keep humidity in control if your wife showers like my wife.

- still not a lot of indoor closets. ex: where you gona keep a vacuum? linens for beds/baths?

-have you considered the cool glass garage roll up doors vs bi fold exterior doors? if you're going for that I live in an auto shop building look it can assist.

Probably going to end up inverting the shop area. Kitchen table is what I have, an antique table with two extra inserts. Furniture can be moved anywhere it needs to be after the walls are up. All the linens would be in the main closets because they are large enough to handle all of our stuff. Vacuum, brooms, crap like that would be in the mud room. I don't want to take up any more space with closets.

 

[ScottRS]

Why is that 725K? It must be the dirt.

Acreage enough to have something before the decimal point, outside of HOA hell, within commute distance to Denver. Real estate here is insane, has been for a while. Prices drop dramatically once you get far enough east to not reasonably commute to Denver from there.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

Probably going to end up inverting the shop area. Kitchen table is what I have, an antique table with two extra inserts. Furniture can be moved anywhere it needs to be after the walls are up. All the linens would be in the main closets because they are large enough to handle all of our stuff. Vacuum, brooms, crap like that would be in the mud room. I don't want to take up any more space with closets.

that'll bring the entry path to something more reasonable. I'd suggest a motion light in that path area in the shop so it just comes on at night when you are trying to get outside that way.
understood on closets. I get it.

 

[BDK]

With all concrete floors, probably won't need a vacuum anyways.

 

[DT75FLH]

then this today...

2 touched down in kingman today.....ive lived in vegas for 20 years and have not seen one since i left chicago :)



im an hour or so from your property on the nv side

 

[larboc]

Good point and prudent whether required or not! But to dampen sound you need to limit vibration transmission. There are isolation materials that can be added. I dimly remember some framing members for home theater walls made to do that to keep sound from the rest of the house.

Block wall would take care of all the concerns. The wall between my house and attached garage is 4" block against a 2*4 insulated wall and blocks virtually all the noise. The connecting door is where all the noise comes through.

 

[45acp]

Block wall would take care of all the concerns. The wall between my house and attached garage is 4" block against a 2*4 insulated wall and blocks virtually all the noise. The connecting door is where all the noise comes through.

Easier than that... plain old 2x6 stick wall with stone wool batting. Assuming drywall on the inside, osb or whatever you want on the shop side.

Stone wool with a little bit of dead airspace works magic.

 

[BDK]

then this today...


2 touched down in kingman today.....ive lived in vegas for 20 years and have not seen one since i left chicago :)

im an hour or so from your property on the nv side

I saw that. My buddy that lives up in Willow Creek area (about an hour east of Kingman on I-40 in the mountains) send me a news link. Then he trolled me when I was asking "WTF, tornados??" Said its normal and they get Cat-5's up there all the time. Fucker.

I also texted the realtor with "Tornados, nobody disclosed tornados??" She called me to make sure I was kidding.

Easier than that... plain old 2x6 stick wall with stone wool batting. Assuming drywall on the inside, osb or whatever you want on the shop side.

Stone wool with a little bit of dead airspace works magic.

I like that idea. Have to put in a divider anyway and that sounds much easier and cheaper than a block wall.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

I saw that. My buddy that lives up in Willow Creek area (about an hour east of Kingman on I-40 in the mountains) send me a news link. Then he trolled me when I was asking "WTF, tornados??" Said its normal and they get Cat-5's up there all the time. Fucker.

I also texted the realtor with "Tornados, nobody disclosed tornados??" She called me to make sure I was kidding.



I like that idea. Have to put in a divider anyway and that sounds much easier and cheaper than a block wall.

If you really REALLY want actual soundproofness, build a 2x4 insulated wall, then build another 2x4 insulated wall that doesn't touch the first one in any way. Each wall gets it's own door (like adjoining motel rooms). Insulate both with rockwool.

From what I understand about soundproofing this is the only real way to do it.

 

[rockota]

Easier than that... plain old 2x6 stick wall with stone wool batting. Assuming drywall on the inside, osb or whatever you want on the shop side.

Stone wool with a little bit of dead airspace works magic.

I would guess that fire codes would not like this approach, assuming codes cares, for fire protection.

Personally, and it's easy to critique from a keyboard, I'd not have a bedroom next to the shop... and I'd do a core filled or close-cell-spray-foam filled 6' block between the shop and living area, with walls framed out on the living quarter side of the brick wall for sound protection. Overkill? sure. But the brick could likely provide additional fire protection should something happen in the shop area.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

If you really REALLY want actual soundproofness, build a 2x4 insulated wall, then build another 2x4 insulated wall that doesn't touch the first one in any way. Each wall gets it's own door (like adjoining motel rooms). Insulate both with rockwool.

From what I understand about soundproofing this is the only real way to do it.

correct. you can also do a double layer of drywall with greenglue sound glue.

the real sound leak is the door seals

 

[heavytlc]

this is the hallway that leads to the shop. It is 6’. 6’ closet, behind the closet is the mechical room accessed from a great room on the back side.

the shop wall is on the right, so the kitchen and all that goes with it absorbs all shop noise and if you are in the kitchen you would not be trying to sleep.

I I I

The wall on the left is the 2x6 wall that the kitchen, bathrooms, hall, closet are on. You can also see the r25 insulation along the wall at the ceiling. The whole shop is now liner paneled floor to ceiling and completely trimmed out.
All welding, fabrication and work take take place in the two bays to the right. I also have a room that I incubate bob white quail in and an area to brood them off the back of the shop.






I built mine with a 2x6wall, 1/2 dry wall inside, shop side is pbr metal panel, 5/8 sheet rock, 7/16 osb, r19 fiberglass insulation, 1 fire rated 36” man door. That did wonders, but the layout inside is what makes all the difference. My kitchen, full bath, hallway with pocket door, closet and mechanical room are all along the shop side down stairs. Up stairs is an office, full bathroom and closet space. I intentionally put as much of the “house” and walls between the shop and the living room bedroom.

 

[heavytlc]

I meant to load these photos in reverse of this order.
Built with no eve extensions, 60x100 with a 20x100 shed roof on the back. That was a horrible mistake. After 10 years of hating it, I added 6’ eve on the front wall and 3’ on side walls. Should have done 6’ all around.
Decided to add some insulation and trim out the front wall on the non shop side in hardie to brake it up. Added framing above the hardie trim to add a shed roof. The shed roof will be 16x20 across the front, 45deg the corner and 16x20 down the side. If I end up doing it it will be all red iron and metal, 24’ between the columns. If I get the some of the crew that is building the new house it will be wood, framed and fancy looking but probably 12’ between columns. The wife will run into the one between the 10x10 doors for sure. I like red iron better, they might actually finish it. I don’t have the time or much desire to do it.

 

[bdkw1]

I like that idea. Have to put in a divider anyway and that sounds much easier and cheaper than a block wall.

If you use 2X4 studs and stagger them so that the inside wall is on 1 set of studs and the outside is on the other set, it transmits way less noise.

 

[NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE]

If you use 2X4 studs and stagger them so that the inside wall is on 1 set of studs and the outside is on the other set, it transmits way less noise.

if you can do an expansion joint under that dividing wall as well. less transmission of vibration from shop to house that way. or the other way if the wife starts going off.