Axle alignment bar and pucks

[Snoop dogg]

Dont mind the crud lol

Fkn send it??

 

[TTMotorsports]

I just did a 14Bolt rear axle with some fixtures I made on my lathe and i had some 1.25" 4130 chromo tubing i used.

 

[Snoop dogg]

I just did a 14Bolt rear axle with some fixtures I made on my lathe and i had some 1.25" 4130 chromo tubing i used.

My buddy turned out some pucks for me out of his scrap bin of aluminum. So i got those. But i think the 1.25 HREW i have probably flexes more than the chromo 1.25.

 

[Dan]

My buddy turned out some pucks for me out of his scrap bin of aluminum. So i got those. But i think the 1.25 HREW i have probably flexes more than the chromo 1.25.

Take your spindles off, bolt your pucks into the carrier bearing bores, and slide the tube through nice and easy. The alignment bar should be sticking out of the knuckle past where your spindle would be. Then slide you're spindles over the alignment bar to the knuckle and see how far off the bolts are.

 

[Snoop dogg]

Take your spindles off, bolt your pucks into the carrier bearing bores, and slide the tube through nice and easy. The alignment bar should be sticking out of the knuckle past where your spindle would be. Then slide you're spindles over the alignment bar to the knuckle and see how far off the bolts are.

Much appreciated!

Ive definitley been staring at it, scratchin my head trying to pinpoint where the bend is. I think* its on the short side tube.

 

[TTMotorsports]

https://www.speedymetals.com/p-1625-1-14-rd-1045-turned-ground-polished-000-001.aspx

For people who want something more precise than DOM tubing. My friend bought this and has used it tons of times with great success

 

[Snoop dogg]

 

[Snoop dogg]

So i got the axle straight. Preheated the diff to 500*.

Used matheson ms3000 1/8 electrodes for dissimiliar metals. They also sell this in a mig wire but they were out of stock.

I mostly mig, tig here and there, and only crack out the stick when necessary. I screwed up on my electrodes...thought i had 3/32. So with it turned up it was a little diff to control the puddle but not too bad. No cracking...got penetration on the tube and diff. Did 1" welds in a pattern alternating each side of diff as well.

Used a weed burner for the preheat which was nice! Only one pass ariund the tubes and did all the plug welds. I wasnt overly pleased with my welds but when i realized i had 1/8 rods it made sense why the rod was getting too hot and startibg to be difficult to control. This will get me through till i put a 60 in though. Used a blanket and no warping or cracking!

I used a bigger bar that od was pretty close to id od the tube housing for the straightenjbg part. Then once that would slide through i used pucks in the diff, 1.25 hrew tube and wifh the suggestion of sliding on spindles and i got it straight. Now just assemble not looking to put more time or money in it....gonna run it and see how it goes till 60 time.

Fyi a 1.25 od bar and dana 44 id spindle bearings are a perfect fit for alignment setup.

 

[desertPOS]

I just did a 14Bolt rear axle with some fixtures I made on my lathe and i had some 1.25" 4130 chromo tubing i used.

Old thread bump - I've got a 14 bolt chained down to a table right now, just picked up a 1-1/4" alignment bar, and just have to figure out pucks. Debating what to do for the outers at the spindle, if anyone has any ideas which would be better:


I could make a puck (or more like a sleeve) that has a 1-1/4" ID and 1.578" OD to fit just the spindle,

OR I could bolt on the hub/bearings like in the pic below and make a puck that has a 1-1/4" ID and 2.875" OD to fit into the hub body (pointer pointing at the outer edge)

I can order pucks for the inner bearing races at the center section it looks like (3.1825" OD) but have to look again to see if anything would work for the outers. If anyone else has done this on a housing with spindles, it'd be awesome to see what you did

 

[Dan]

I could make a puck (or more like a sleeve) that has a 1-1/4" ID and 1.578" OD to fit just the spindle,

I would do something like this but welded to a spindle nut so it threads on rather than fitting the spindle ID. Your idea above should work though, the only issue I see is a variance between spindle IDs and your sleeve not fitting other axles that might have a .005 difference. Are both spindles the same 1.578 ID?

I can post some pictures of my outer alignment pucks for FF spindles if you like. They also work with KP style front spindles.

ETA

Standard threads on one side and the other end has LH threads for the oddball axles that aren’t 14 bolts.

Random alignment pucks for tube ID.

 

[TTMotorsports]

The 14 bolt line up tool I used and been driving truck for months now without problems had an aluminum puck that would fit inside the outer spindle with the 1-1/4" through hole. No problems using it or any issues after the axle was completed and used.

 

[desertPOS]

I would do something like this but welded to a spindle nut so it threads on rather than fitting the spindle ID. Your idea above should work though, the only issue I see is a variance between spindle IDs and your sleeve not fitting other axles that might have a .005 difference. Are both spindles the same 1.578 ID?

I can post some pictures of my outer alignment pucks for FF spindles if you like. They also work with KP style front spindles.

I don't know if I measured both spindles - will have to double check that later. Pictures of your out alignment pucks would be great

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

I would do something like this but welded to a spindle nut so it threads on rather than fitting the spindle ID. Your idea above should work though, the only issue I see is a variance between spindle IDs and your sleeve not fitting other axles that might have a .005 difference. Are both spindles the same 1.578 ID?

I can post some pictures of my outer alignment pucks for FF spindles if you like. They also work with KP style front spindles.

ETA

Standard threads on one side and the other end has LH threads for the oddball axles that aren’t 14 bolts.

Random alignment pucks for tube ID.

That's a nice set, you make them or pick them up somewhere?

When using on a front do you prefer using the inner or outer puck one over the other or both?

 

[total newb]

I have a set like that i bough from cyro dean/kickass offroad. Kit came with the danas up to 70 and 3 of the threaded spindle sockets, 2 rh 1 lh for the sterlings.

I had to make a set to do a dodge aam front but he did offer more pucks than what came with the "kit"

 

[TTMotorsports]

The one that I used didn't thread onto the spindle at all was just a tight fit into the spindle with a 1/2" thick HAT on the end that pushed against the end of the spindle.

 

[Dan]

That's a nice set, you make them or pick them up somewhere?

When using on a front do you prefer using the inner or outer puck one over the other or both?

I bought the og set up from cryo dean/ kickass offroad about 12 or 13 years ago, same place as total newb. That kit came with the 2 carrier pucks for Dana 60/70/80, and 14 bolts, the bar, and the outer threaded pucks I posted. The other 3 pairs I just bought for a couple junkyard 609 axles I’m building and haven’t used them yet but probably will in the next week or so.

I bought the new pucks from sendcutsend. They have a decent cut tolerance of like +/- .005” so I wanted to try them out for this. There are just a couple spots I need to smooth out but they are basically perfect and were cheap. With a piece of dom tube and some alignment pucks from them I bet someone could build an alignment set up for around $100 or less?

 

[desertPOS]

Thought this would be a good thread to ask another question or two. Finally moving on with a 14 bolt I need to weld up. Bought some pucks for the carrier, got a bar, made some half-assed pucks for the spindles, then got sidelined with other work for the past month+ but hoping to get back on this in the next few days.

I've got the axle mounted to a fixture table, planning to use a weed burner for preheat, 400º 'marker' and digital temp gun, then wrap with welding blanket after welding. Anyone care to share the steps they went through as far as the weld process goes? I've got to weld truss to third, and a bit on the tubes. After that (was going to save till other welding is done) going to cut/weld in a TMR axle shave kit.

Preheat till mark melts, weld all at once, heat all with weed burner again, and wrap? Or preheat, weld an inch or two on opposing sections, then wrap - rinse and repeat till it's done? If pucks aren't sliding in how they should on the spindle ends, planning to use a bottle jack or two till they do, then maybe an extra pump of the jack more for a little extra

If anyone would care to share their process, it'd be cool to hear

 

[Snoop dogg]

You can preload the axle a little bit with jack and chain.

Welding center to tubes or truss to center with a ni55/ni99 peen the weld, I used an air needle scaler. Don't think it's necessary for just the steel to steel welding like truss to tube.

I'm not a professional, just what I did to straighten and fix a Dana 44 couple years ago.

Edit:I also realize my post is redundant lol.

 

[desertPOS]

You can preload the axle a little bit with jack and chain.

Welding center to tubes or truss to center with a ni55/ni99 peen the weld, I used an air needle scaler. Don't think it's necessary for just the steel to steel welding like truss to tube.

I'm not a professional, just what I did to straighten and fix a Dana 44 couple years ago.

Edit:I also realize my post is redundant lol.

I've read enough to garner a general consensus that with pre/post heat, just mig ER70xx it is fine? I could also TIG with high nickel rod, although in terms of heat control, I could mig a lot quicker than tig - feel like that's worth something

Peen - air hammer with a needle? While still hot or after cool to ambient temp? Hammer and a punch?

I think mild steel to mild steel like truss to tube, I'd still want to weld sections at a time, on opposing sides of the tube when possible, to avoid heat soaking the part too much. I guess it wouldn't be any different welding to the cast section, unless pre/post heating changes any of that. So maybe preheat to ~400, weld inch or two, heat with torch to maintain ~400, once weld area cools to 400, weld the next section, stick with that process till welding done, then wrap in a blanket. Check alignment pucks during that process in case adjustments need to be made

I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but Welded quite a few axles in the past, just never with an alignment setup

 

[Snoop dogg]

I've read enough to garner a general consensus that with pre/post heat, just mig ER70xx it is fine? I could also TIG with high nickel rod, although in terms of heat control, I could mig a lot quicker than tig - feel like that's worth something

Peen - air hammer with a needle? While still hot or after cool to ambient temp? Hammer and a punch?

I think mild steel to mild steel like truss to tube, I'd still want to weld sections at a time, on opposing sides of the tube when possible, to avoid heat soaking the part too much. I guess it wouldn't be any different welding to the cast section, unless pre/post heating changes any of that. So maybe preheat to ~400, weld inch or two, heat with torch to maintain ~400, once weld area cools to 400, weld the next section, stick with that process till welding done, then wrap in a blanket. Check alignment pucks during that process in case adjustments need to be made

I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but Welded quite a few axles in the past, just never with an alignment setup

If people say the ER70 wire works then I'd trust that....was specifically talking about a cast center section weld to steel tube. I've used some matheson dissimilar rods,ni55,ni99 for cast center welded to steel tubes. I like the nickle rods.

I just peened it with the needler when I got done welding around the tube.. Again my understanding is peening is necessary for cast welding or cast to steel.

And yea ideally don't pour all your heat into one spot....there's enough to be welded on your project to hop around. Have everything tacked nice and where you want your truss. The bottle jack and a little preload should keep everything true till it cools.

Some people posted thinking it was odd to use a bottle jack and chain to keep things straight, but I picked that up from an old 4wd mag jn early 2000s....also I remember some article about wagoneer machine shop in Oklahoma and their axle builds. And basic Internet search will bring up threads from the old site on a little pre load.


I used some steel tube, aluminum puck that a buddy turned were close enough, big I beam chain and jack. ...used a weed burner and temp gun, welding blanket, etc.

It worked well enough that I could drive my 67 Ford on 37s straight down the road with one finger. I did rebuild the axle though too.

Edit: I believe the main thing about cast to steel is the different rates it cools and why you need to peen it (I peen cast to cast as well) and good post heat. (I post heat cast to cast and wrap).

 

[Winchested]

I've done 5 axles now with 70S6 .035 wire. Not a single one has cracked. Pre heat, weld, tap with a friggen chipping hammer, wrap in blanket.

Guys like to make this more of a science experiment then it needs to friggen be.

And never checked a single one for straightness, no abnormal tire wear or bearing failure. All driven on road for minimum 15k km. 2 dana 44s, dana 60 front and two 14 bolts.

 

[mobil1syn]

i just preheated my 8.8 to burn out most of the oil after i bent it. blasted it with regular ol' mig wire and then beat the welds with an air hammer. this is supposed to prevent the welds from shrinking and cracking. had some fixture pieces and it was good enough to smash hoops without leaking.

 

[Winchested]

i just preheated my 8.8 to burn out most of the oil after i bent it. blasted it with regular ol' mig wire and then beat the welds with an air hammer. this is supposed to prevent the welds from shrinking and cracking. had some fixture pieces and it was good enough to smash hoops without leaking.

Is it just my eyes or what that taco'd over a 1/2" on both sides?

 

[Snoop dogg]

Is it just my eyes or what that taco'd over a 1/2" on both sides?

Lol....that shit is bent. My 44 wasn't that bad, but bad enough that I needed to straighten it.

I did the same setup as mobilsyn1, except mine was extremely ghetto looking....his setup looks sano.

 

[mobil1syn]

Is it just my eyes or what that taco'd over a 1/2" on both sides?

nope, it was all kinds of bad. tubes were straight, they just moved in the housing.

 

[Winchested]

nope, it was all kinds of bad. tubes were straight, they just moved in the housing.

Ooh. So pressed it up straighten em in the casting, then re weld plug welds and tubes to housing! Looks good.

 

[Rangerrod]

I've done 5 axles now with 70S6 .035 wire. Not a single one has cracked. Pre heat, weld, tap with a friggen chipping hammer, wrap in blanket.

Guys like to make this more of a science experiment then it needs to friggen be.

And never checked a single one for straightness, no abnormal tire wear or bearing failure. All driven on road for minimum 15k km. 2 dana 44s, dana 60 front and two 14 bolts.

Couldn’t agree more I’ve done 5/6 now exactly the same way. The Sterling and superduty 60 the 60 welded a little shittier than the Sterling.

 

[desertPOS]

Ordered these pucks from Rhodes for a 1-1/2" bar, and ordered some bushings from McMaster since the alignment bar I got is 1-1/4" - I've got a TG front housing that I need to straighten, and the ID coming through the knuckle C is not much more than 1-1/2 so went with the smaller bar

Well shit - with the bearing caps just hand tight, I can't slide one of the bushings into the puck because the bar is bottoming out on the spindle on both sides. Guess it's not straight, which is awesome since the truss is already welded to the tubes. Probably have to cut the truss I imagine

Axle fixturing/welding/unbending table I built and drilled out. Would really like to make some bolt-on acme threaded jacks to use in lieu of bottle jack, and some heavy duty chain turnbuckles. Tried hitting it with the bottle jack to see if it'd move anything at all, and the turnbuckles were just stretching out. Locally, those were the beefiest ones I could find. Need to search and see what else I can get, or just bolt chain straight to the table. Hopefully work on this more this weekend

Now that I'm posting this, I'm realizing that I need to flip the axle before I can jack it straight
Edit: nevermind - think I've got it the right way - if I jack it up with the bottle jack the way it's set up, that should center the bar in the tube

Drilled part of the center section and it produced curled drill shavings, which according to the web seems to mean that it's cast steel or ductile iron, as opposed to powdery drill shavings indicating actual cast iron? Or something like that. Which is a good thing in terms of welding, so I'm leaning towards just sending it with the mig

 

[arse_sidewards]

I think you’re just gonna bend the table if you put any real force on that.

 

[Winchested]

Ordered these pucks from Rhodes for a 1-1/2" bar, and ordered some bushings from McMaster since the alignment bar I got is 1-1/4" - I've got a TG front housing that I need to straighten, and the ID coming through the knuckle C is not much more than 1-1/2 so went with the smaller bar

Well shit - with the bearing caps just hand tight, I can't slide one of the bushings into the puck because the bar is bottoming out on the spindle on both sides. Guess it's not straight, which is awesome since the truss is already welded to the tubes. Probably have to cut the truss I imagine

Axle fixturing/welding/unbending table I built and drilled out. Would really like to make some bolt-on acme threaded jacks to use in lieu of bottle jack, and some heavy duty chain turnbuckles. Tried hitting it with the bottle jack to see if it'd move anything at all, and the turnbuckles were just stretching out. Locally, those were the beefiest ones I could find. Need to search and see what else I can get, or just bolt chain straight to the table. Hopefully work on this more this weekend

Now that I'm posting this, I'm realizing that I need to flip the axle before I can jack it straight
Edit: nevermind - think I've got it the right way - if I jack it up with the bottle jack the way it's set up, that should center the bar in the tube

Drilled part of the center section and it produced curled drill shavings, which according to the web seems to mean that it's cast steel or ductile iron, as opposed to powdery drill shavings indicating actual cast iron? Or something like that. Which is a good thing in terms of welding, so I'm leaning towards just sending it with the mig

Did you not read any of the comments from those of us that have welded the frig out of these housings with standard 70S6 mig wire...

You ain't straightening that without cutting that truss off.