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Audio Build Log: The Gnome's 2017 Silverado

That thermal barrier looks nice. It should work well on a jeep hard top and help with the noise

We took it out today and it was much quieter inside than before. The rear doors haven't been treated yet and you could tell. The road noise we heard was coming through the rear doors.

Second skin is some good stuff. I did the doors of my 98 ram with them when I added comps. I couldnt imagine pulling the full interior to do that though, lots of work! All looks well done too, appreciate the product links as well, will need that when I start messing with my new to me 12.

I'll be doing this exact process in the Audi, my Chevelle, and the big van build I have here.

Lots of work.
 
I don\\\\\\\'t have pics prior to this, but here\\\\\\\'s what I do have of the process to get the Alpine RUX-C800 controller mounted in the overhead console of the truck.\\\\n\\\\nThe RUX-C800 controls an Alpine H800 processor. The processor won\\\\\\\'t function without this controller. Instead of selling the processor with the controller Alpine makes you by it separately like a bunch of assholes.\\\\n\\\\nAnyway, prior to these photos I cut out a portion of the sunglasses holder and used Lord Fusor 142 adhesive to bond the flush mount panel that came with the RUX-C800 to the back wall of the sunglasses holder. Had to remove the foam that Chevy put there, but not a big deal.\\\\n\\\\nThen I used a mix of fiberlgass resin with fumed silica (thickener) and 1/4\\\\\\\" chopped fiberglass strand (adds tensile strength) to build the contours on the left/right of the controller. If you don\\\\\\\'t have fumed silica and 1/4\\\\\\\" chopped strand on hand, you can just buy Evercoat\\\\\\\'s Fiber Tech and use that. Pretty much the same shit - just more expensive.\\\\n\\\\nWith the main portion built up with fiberglass filler I skimmed the areas I worked with Evercoat\\\\\\\'s Poly-flex. This bond well to plastics and feathers well to them.\\\\n\\\\nWhich brings us to today.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThe next step was to prime the piece with SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer. I went through the prime/sand/prime/sand... process a bit here to get all of the imperfections out of it.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nYou\\\\\\\'ll notice that I taped the perimeter edge of the piece (to protect the exterior surfaces) and the interior pocket (to protect the area where 3M double-sided tape would be applied).\\\\n\\\\nAluminum tape was used to get a fine edge that wouldn\\\\\\\'t lift around the perimeter and I used masking tape in the pocket.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nSanding and priming.\\\\n\\\\nWhen next step is to give the piece some texture. For this I used SEM Texture Coating. This stuff is awesome for finishing plastics and making them look factory. Takes some time to get the technique down, but it doesn\\\\\\\'t suck.\\\\n\\\\nI used aluminum tape again to mask off the bits that are part of the mechanics of what was the sunglass holder. Don\\\\\\\'t need texture coating getting in these areas.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nStarting with the texture coating. It\\\\\\\'s kind of easy to spray an area \\\\\\\"heavy\\\\\\\" and others \\\\\\\"light\\\\\\\". Getting distance and such right takes a little time.\\\\n\\\\n

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More progress today.

He got the driver rear door fully deadened. Applied seven sheets of Second Skin Damplifier Pro to the rear doors and two full sheets were used on each door card.

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Then it was time for more foam/thermal insulation.
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While he was doing that I got some work done with a migraine. I bounced between the Audi and making progress here.

Ran speaker wire for the passenger mid and tweet.

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I'd love to know the total sheet count / sq footage on the Second Skin Damplifier Pro and the foam/thermal insulation used on the Gnome's truck. I'd really love to insulate mine just for the comfort factor. It looks like $1200 would get it pretty cool and quiet.
Awesome work btw, thanks again:smokin:
 
I'd love to know the total sheet count / sq footage on the Second Skin Damplifier Pro and the foam/thermal insulation used on the Gnome's truck. I'd really love to insulate mine just for the comfort factor. It looks like $1200 would get it pretty cool and quiet.
Awesome work btw, thanks again:smokin:

I just counted what's left of that box of 72 sheets. I have 25 sheets left.


Counting the 34 sheets he ordered that's 81 sheets of material so far.

He's going to have the front door cards off tomorrow to apply the foam/thermal barrier. I'd expect him to drop two sheets per door card like he did on the rear and maybe a sheet (or two) on the back side of the inner door skin. I applied some there already, but I didn't give them 100% coverage. Mainly dropped scraps on the back side of the interior skin.

Only 100% coverage on the outer skin. The stamped/formed inner skin doesn't need it as badly as the big, flat exterior skins.

I'd guess we'll be sitting at another six or 8 sheets installed tomorrow on the front doors.

The cool/quiet is something that is amazing.

I was talking today and stuck my head in the truck to route speaker cable. There was an audible difference in the way my voice sounded just outside the door and once I put my head in the cabin. I compared it to being in the truck of a Bentley (which made The Gnome laugh). I had to remove the factory Naim sub from under the shelf in one and had to lay on my back and support it as I unbolted it. The trunk was DEAD quiet. This truck reminds me of how quite that Bentley was.

Factor in the added benefit of insulation and it's definitely worth it.
 
Essentially a 72 pack of Second Skin + the same sq footage of the foam + a week of Sundays would make my crew cab cozy. I wish this came up a few months ago, I've been off work since mid March and had plenty of time. I'm going back to work in a few weeks and trying to make up for fucking off too much the last few months. I'll put this in the queue for the next time off.
Thanks
 
Essentially a 72 pack of Second Skin + the same sq footage of the foam + a week of Sundays would make my crew cab cozy. I wish this came up a few months ago, I've been off work since mid March and had plenty of time. I'm going back to work in a few weeks and trying to make up for fucking off too much the last few months. I'll put this in the queue for the next time off.
Thanks

We'll be at roughly 90 sheets.

Don't forget MLV on the floor and back wall.
 
So what does all that weigh?

That's in this post

Made the amp rack today. Carpet will be here Friday.

First, a paper template that we transferred to some 1/2 MDF.

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This it was time for a bit of flush trim and roundover work on the router.

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Then we got to work locating everything.

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Not sure how this got over-exposed, but we relocated the window motor to get more space for the DD Audio M3c that will power the subs.
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The factory amp will go in front of the jack where the storage compartment/tray was. I'll break out the factory wires and neaten everything up.
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Because he looks like a gnome, Avi.



New yoga position: Downward Gnome
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Starting the sub enclosure.

Ran some 2" outside corners on the CNC for the rear corners. Used 4" outside corners for the fronts. Holes are for dowels to align the pieces as they're assembled and glued.

While I'm assembling these, The Gnome is doing more deadening in the truck. Nothing to really show there, just packing mineral wool into the upper C-pillar cavities and applying Damplifier Pro and the foam/thermal barrier to them.

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Wouldn’t it have been easier to do that when the seats where still out? Unless the gnome just likes that position...

This was running the cable for the bass knob.

The plan was to run it while seats/carpet were out.

We forgot. :laughing:
 
Your work is on another level. Incredible.

I can't believe people go to this extent for a system in their vehicle. :eek:
 
Your work is on another level. Incredible.

I can't believe people go to this extent for a system in their vehicle. :eek:
It sure is on another level. Me either on the level of effort being put in. It did inspire me though, I am upgrading my cars factory setup with a head unit and speakers. This inspired me to add a bunch of the sound deadener he linked also. Next weekend I’ll pull out the seats and carpet to install it. My hands look like I fought a cheese grater after installing it in all the doors.:homer:
 
It sure is on another level. Me either on the level of effort being put in. It did inspire me though, I am upgrading my cars factory setup with a head unit and speakers. This inspired me to add a bunch of the sound deadener he linked also. Next weekend I’ll pull out the seats and carpet to install it. My hands look like I fought a cheese grater after installing it in all the doors.:homer:

I just plopped in a powered sub and called it a day. Put some Rockfords in front and rear. meh
 
It sure is on another level. Me either on the level of effort being put in. It did inspire me though, I am upgrading my cars factory setup with a head unit and speakers. This inspired me to add a bunch of the sound deadener he linked also. Next weekend I’ll pull out the seats and carpet to install it. My hands look like I fought a cheese grater after installing it in all the doors.:homer:

The trick is that with all of sound deadener, sound absorption, and sound blocking material you'll notice you have your volume at a lower level.

In the Silverado he was at about 1/2 volume while on the road. Now it's at 1/3 volume on the head unit. By reducing the noise floor we've reduced the needed output level to hear the music.

We haven't wired the new system yet. The reduced noise floor will let you hear details in the new system that would be lost without the sound treatment.

Then there's the added benefit of improved interior temp control.
 
The trick is that with all of sound deadener, sound absorption, and sound blocking material you'll notice you have your volume at a lower level.

In the Silverado he was at about 1/2 volume while on the road. Now it's at 1/3 volume on the head unit. By reducing the noise floor we've reduced the needed output level to hear the music.

We haven't wired the new system yet. The reduced noise floor will let you hear details in the new system that would be lost without the sound treatment.

Then there's the added benefit of improved interior temp control.

You ever run into a problem with the...iunno, kickplates on the door frame floors? The little plastic pieces you'd step onto to get into the vehicle? I popped two off to wire in my sub, and snapped off the little plastic tabs that snap through the floor. now they sort of just rest there. They're like $300 for replacements. =/
 
You ever run into a problem with the...iunno, kickplates on the door frame floors? The little plastic pieces you'd step onto to get into the vehicle? I popped two off to wire in my sub, and snapped off the little plastic tabs that snap through the floor. now they sort of just rest there. They're like $300 for replacements. =/

Sill plates.

The previous installer broke the driver's rear sill plate.

I use a panel popper in an attempt to reduce that possibility.
 
Hrm. I used a door panel tool and every one said nope! :homer:
 
Yup if you're gonna do interior work investing in some panel popping tools is a good idea. I have a selection of nylon pry bars and some specialty body clip puller tools to do all my work. I also have a neat little contraption that wedges between the door and the door buzzer plunger so you can key the car on and not get dinged at the whole time.
 
Yup if you're gonna do interior work investing in some panel popping tools is a good idea. I have a selection of nylon pry bars and some specialty body clip puller tools to do all my work. I also have a neat little contraption that wedges between the door and the door buzzer plunger so you can key the car on and not get dinged at the whole time.

I bought this five piece blue set that work on. its fine, but those sill plates all snapped. the clip portion is exposed from underneath and New England winter just pooched them all.
 
I bought this five piece blue set that work on. its fine, but those sill plates all snapped. the clip portion is exposed from underneath and New England winter just pooched them all.

Yeah some of that shit is unavoidable. Plastic clips are beyond annoying. Nothing like putting plastic that gets brittle relatively easily out in a harsh environment. Time for some Sheetmetal Screws:flipoff2:
 
Hrm. I used a door panel tool and every one said nope! :homer:

:laughing:

Forming the tweeter pods.

Bought some ugly blue grille cloth from Keyston Bros. for cheap when we were in Hawaii.

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Wrapped the area of the A-pillars where I'll be working with aluminum tape. I can glue to it, form to it, and it'll peel right off the pillar when I'm done.

Ran some mounting rings for the tweeters on the CNC from some 1/4" PVC sheet and got the aiming/angles sorted out. Sanded a bevel to get the angle correct and tacked the ring in place with CA glue (super glue).

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Then I cut some scraps from 1/4" PVC to reinforce the tweeter mounting ring. CA'd those to the mounting ring and to the aluminum tape.

Used some of the ugly blue grille cloth to stretch over the tweeter ring. wicked medium CA through the cloth to the ring and hit it with accelerator. I then stretched the grill cloth around the tweeter ring and supports and CA'd the cloth to the aluminum tape. If I had to fold the cloth to get it to lay flat I'd so it close to a leg. I CA the cloth to the leg, fold excess over it, and CA the layers together.

End result is a hard, plastic housing.

I could've used fiberglass resin to wet the grill cloth but CA is much faster.

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After that it's a matter of applying Evercoat Fiber-Tech to get close to the shape.

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So that's where I am right now. Posting this pics in pretty much real-time today.
 
3M heavy duty double sided sticky tape. It's holding trim and weather stripping onto a lot of my shit:laughing:

Yea, its on the list of things to work on. I've got about 400 things before that, though. :laughing:

mmk, sorry for fucking up the badass audio build. :homer:
 
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