What's new
By:
Filters

Audio Build Log: The Gnome's 2017 Silverado

ProjectTwin

ProjectTwin

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1193
Messages
447
So The Gnome has been coming to the house/shop for a while now. He originally went to a local car audio shop and they didn't do things right. The guy that did the install came to my place for an enclosure build and I guided him on that so THAT part of the build worked properly.

The rest was kind of jacked up.

So he's here for a full rebuild. We're starting with full sound deadening/heat treatment with the exception of the floor. That will be done later.

We're using Second Skin Damplifier Pro and some 10mm foam/thermal barrier from Amazon.

I started with the front doors. I used six sheets of Damplifier Pro on each of the outer door skins and the back side of the inner door skin. I didn't do 100% coverage of the inner skin (where the factory moisture barrier is) because we wanted to have the truck where it could be easily serviced. I've never liked the installs with sound deadener covering the entire inner door.

After I was done with the doors I removed the rear seat and started stripping the rear wall so I could lay out and plan where the amplifiers, processor, fuse block, and lithium battery would go.

With the door sill plates pulled, and the bottom halves of the B and C pillars pulled, there wasn't much left to just drop the head liner and apply sound deadening.

So...that turned into "May as well install thermal barrier while we're in here."


100% coverage of the roof skin. He also packed Rockwool into the empty cavities.
116242374_177042373799548_4847278114389531222_o.jpg


The foam/heat barrier.
116895817_177042417132877_8750479118149775017_o.jpg



"It's fucking getting hot in here.":laughing:
116597210_177042440466208_1813720593700155258_o.jpg


Full coverage of the roof. You can see mineral wool in the cavities above the rear window. He came back and applied Damplifier Pro over that bare area above the rear window.
117038382_177042397132879_3078180782129281611_o.jpg
 
With the headliner done it was time to focus our attention on the rear wall and D pillars.

The Gnome packed mineral wool into the D pillar cavities then applied Damplifier Pro to everything before following up with the foam thermal barrier.

We'll do the floor with the same treatment later, but for the floor we'll be adding MLV to the mix.

A lot more to do to this one and we haven't even started the audio build yet.

117386749_177810613722724_6430146918597398880_o.jpg


117312250_177810683722717_2253104001214445708_o.jpg


117430523_177810663722719_5071699417182987003_o.jpg


117310533_177810713722714_3897021226611439777_o.jpg
 
I want to print out your pics on adhesive vinyl, and slap them on every shitbox auction Crown Vic I'm stuck in traffic next to, listening to their fatiguing sheetmetal make more noise than their crap music.
 
subybaja said:
How does that foam do for insulation? My 715 has nothing, and it gets cold!
Click to expand...

If you're talking about he foam/thermal barrier, it's awesome. It gets fucking hot installing the shit. I did the entire cab of a '53 Studebaker pickup and was hating life. :laughing:

I originally ordered this stuff for out 4-door '66 Chevelle but haven't had time to start work on it. I plan to do a shitload of treatment on the Chevelle.

He started the truck, fired up the AC, and it got fucking cold. :laughing: Had condensation on the outside of the windows.

In heavy rain he no longer hears rain hitting the roof.

I'll find out in the morning how big of an improvement the back wall treatment made. Monday we start building the amp rack.
 
Last edited:
xr-nut said:
Why not tear out the carpet and do the floor with everything else already out?
Click to expand...

The carpet, seats, and center console come out on Monday.

TrikeKid said:
No issues with the insulation being over the cab vents in the rear wall?
Click to expand...

Can't see it from the pictures, but there's an opening at the bottom of the cabin vents.

The factory insulation was actually closed off over the cabin vents. We left the heat barrier open at the bottom of the vent. Top/left/right sides are closed.

He's been driving it to/from the shop. No issues with them.
 
Yesterday we pulled the seats, center console, and carpet then started the process of applying Second Skin Damplifier Pro to the entire floor pan.

I bounced between this, the Audi, and some other projects.

The Gnome packed the B pillars with mineral wool as well as all of the empty cavities above the floor pan where we couldn't apply Damplifier Pro.

Then we got started on the floor pan with the Damplifier Pro.

For now he's going to do two DD Audio 2508s in an under seat enclosure, but the real plan is to run four Stereo Integrity BM mkV 12s under the rear seat. Will have to wait until they get here.

Four 12s under the seat. :laughing: Should be fun.

Anyway, we've been making progress on the truck today. Hope to get a good start on the foam/thermal barrier today.

Also have Sumo welding away on the Audi so there's progress happening there.

117341444_178441996992919_4521955614103286924_o.jpg


117198179_178443300326122_887113832623770726_o.jpg
 
Johann said:
Why the foam? So Gnome One can hear you scream! :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

:laughing:

The Damplifier Pro adds mass to panels to reduce vibration/lower resonant freq.

It's not a catch-all solution. None of the CLD (constrained layer damper) products do. They'll have either a butyl or asphalt damper with a foil layer. The foil helps as a heat barrier, but mostly serves to keep the stuff from becoming an adhesive. Only one side sticks.

The closed cell foam/thermal layer we're adding will block freqs that CLD doesn't. The thermal barrier on it adds another layer of thermal protection.

We'll add mass loaded vinyl to the floor after the foam/thermal barrier is in. That's 1lb/sq ft and is another layer of sound blocking/reduction.
 
Got the Damplifier Pro applied to the floor.

We did two layers under the rear seat because he'll eventually have four 12s under there.

After these pics we started the foam/thermal layer on the floor.

Tomorrow the rest of the foam/thermal layer will go in, MLV will get installed on the floor and rear wall, and then the carpet, front seats, and console will go back in.

117303388_178735930296859_6285993867126252951_o.jpg


117737509_178735956963523_5677085514947033532_o.jpg


117595136_178735986963520_4009953943857732032_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
That looks great! How thick will the 3 layers be and does it affect the fit of the carpet in any way? I'm jealous, I'd love to do my crew cab but$$
 
Firstram said:
That looks great! How thick will the 3 layers be and does it affect the fit of the carpet in any way? I\'m jealous, I\'d love to do my crew cab but$$
Click to expand...
\n\nI\'d guess 3/8\" - 1/2\" when uncompressed. I could measure tomorrow and tell you for sure.\n\nNot sure if I mentioned it, but there\'s also mineral wool (Rockwool Safe n Sound) in the empty cavities of the cab. It doesn\'t absorb water so it\'s a good solution for those areas. The B-pillars, B-pillar roof braces, the windshield header, D-pillars, and all the empty cavities in the floor above the floor pan.\n\nWe used the mineral wool in areas where we couldn\'t apply the foam/thermal barrier or Damplifier Pro. Those areas are stuffed with it. Makes a difference in the knuckle test.\n\nWe just got the MLV, carpet, center console, and front seats in tonight. Wife had to sit in my lap while we bolted the center console in place. :laughing:\n\nEverything else fit without issue, but we kind of planned for less material at mounting points.\n\nA couple of pictures of the foam/thermal barrier in place. We knew the center console fit would be tight so we did the Damplifier Pro on the floor and I applied the foam/foil layer to the bottom of the console.\n\nWe avoided seat mount locations with the Damplifier Pro and applied the foam/thermal barrier under the seats. There\'s actually 2-3 layers of the foam/foil under the seats. We put as much thermal protection under there as we could.\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117275032_178976226939496_3320234081919492102_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=417r3hDqhpkAX9_Y8xg&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=a53f572ead27c7febf6c81a9956c247d&oe=5F5A06E3\"}[/IMG2]\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117258157_178976200272832_5374799450985886066_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=iNEyVFyELR0AX8JO1M0&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=d708bb0c1fc1c12378f91b66a7b4b8f9&oe=5F5D28FA\"}[/IMG2]\n\nFinal bit was the Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV).\n\nWe started with the largest areas and worked from there.\n\nWe used some nice double-sided tape from Second Skin to get the pieces to stay in place. Came in handy for wrapping the MLV over corners.\n\nAreas where we made relief cuts or wanted to join to pieces of MLV we used scrap MLV and vinyl adhesive\n\nThe Gnome at work.\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117770057_179276100242842_9051618474190908653_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=mXteNTH7hnEAX8FSUeA&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=9e2e9eda80b05e204f1c8add1a60123e&oe=5F5B3465\"}[/IMG2]\n\n\n\nThe MLV process was much faster than the foam/thermal barrier and MUCH faster than the Damplifier Pro installation.\n\nWe applied everything so that if/when the vehicle goes in for service everything is easily accessible and nothing we\'ve done would cause the mechanic to have to work around things. All of the factory wiring is easily accessed.\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117905371_179276206909498_6742937517762481450_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=fltVnD8Da_EAX8oXPPK&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=39ee651c9a4c69c66951a6f274a9cbec&oe=5F5C6623\"}[/IMG2]\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117776210_179276120242840_5482613229777049021_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=1s7ZwUC7SJsAX94WclA&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=050c4ba5a267a7e18d1b691d8b2f4278&oe=5F5A80A4\"}[/IMG2]\n\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117818389_179276170242835_2506454435705265956_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=w2qICwAgHbAAX96yxkk&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=efa76c71cb1258d7c49b4c59747204a7&oe=5F5C6742\"}[/IMG2]\n\nCarpet going back in. I spent a couple of hours cleaning the carpet yesterday before I let it go back in today.\n\n\nYou\'ll also notice 0 gauge power cable and a pair of RCAs and a remote wire.\n\nWe ran the 0 gauge along the driver\'s side of the trans tunnel and ran the RCA and remote wire along the passenger side of the trans tunnel. There will be two speaker leads per side that run to the front. We\'ll run those in the factory door sill channels.\n[IMG2=JSON]{\"data-align\":\"none\",\"data-size\":\"full\",\"src\":\"https:\\/\\/scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\\/v\\/t1.0-9\\/117931687_179276153576170_280526713455495836_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=13VU43aarbgAX9DEDC4&_nc_oc=AQlAsm1efH-f449j7M-LFn_Y3QdK-UhNGnIdzQ_l2eSer44OeRSQeL6D4u0dDcOHQcY&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.xx&oh=b49647e6e9a7b6a1af389d1a9431f06c&oe=5F59A43F\"}[/IMG2]\n\nSo now that we\'ve done the prep work, it\'s almost time to actually start the build of the audio system. :laughing:\n\nSound deadening is a hard sell. People have a hard time justifying the expense for something they can\'t see. Most of them think an amp and speakers to be louder will be plenty.\n\nThis truck is A LOT quieter inside and we\'re still not done. I\'ve already treated the front doors with Damplifier Pro but tomorrow we\'ll get the rear doors treated with it and treat all four door cards with the foam/foil barrier.\n\nMonday will be when the real audio build starts.
 
Last edited:
Firstram said:
Great write up, thanks for the clear pictures and product lists along the way:smokin:
Click to expand...

No problem. Hopefully it's of use to folks.

I forgot the links to the MLV and vinyl adhesive I'm using. Added those.
 
I had planned to do some sound deadening but this is convincing me to do insulation too and to do it sooner than later. My pocket book says you can fuck off but I know it'll be worth it. :laughing:
 
Need that thermal barrier on the floors of my FSJ the three inch exhaust gets the floors a might toasty after a few hours, sound deadner wouldn't be a bad idea either
 
Loving this :smokin:
Is this going to be a comp rig? Any idea how much extra weight all the insulation adds?
 
  • Like
Reactions: DWT
DWT said:
I had planned to do some sound deadening but this is convincing me to do insulation too and to do it sooner than later. My pocket book says you can fuck off but I know it'll be worth it. :laughing:
Click to expand...

:laughing:

When we had just the roof and back wall treated with the Damplifier Pro and the foam/thermal barrier he noticed that he had to raise his AC setting. The truck was getting TOO cold. He's getting condensation on the outside of the windows.

We're in Georgia. It's 92+ degrees.

Curious to see how it is now that we've got the floor treated.

bigun said:
Need that thermal barrier on the floors of my FSJ the three inch exhaust gets the floors a might toasty after a few hours, sound deadner wouldn't be a bad idea either
Click to expand...

Do it.

OllieNZ said:
Loving this :smokin:
Is this going to be a comp rig? Any idea how much extra weight all the insulation adds?
Click to expand...

He's mentioned competing at some point. For now it's just his daily driver and a vehicle he plans on keeping. All of this soundproofing and heat insulation will help when he does the engine work he has planned.

Weight...the Damplifier Pro is about 3/4 lb per sheet. I used six sheets per front door (4 1/2 lbs), and I'd have to count to see what's left to get the number of sheets for the headliner, back wall. If we used 72 sheets, that's 54 lbs of Damplifier Pro.

Today the rear doors will get treated with Damplifier Pro and we'll treat all four door cards with the foam/thermal barrier.

The foam/thermal barrier is fairly light. It's 3 1/2 lbs per 60" x 40" sheet (16 1/2 sq ft).

The MLV is 1 lb per sq ft.
 
Second skin is some good stuff. I did the doors of my 98 ram with them when I added comps. I couldnt imagine pulling the full interior to do that though, lots of work! All looks well done too, appreciate the product links as well, will need that when I start messing with my new to me 12.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh