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Audio Build Log: The Gnome's 2017 Silverado

The Gnome is stuffing the empty cavities in the C-pillars with mineral wool, applying Damplifier Pro, then applying the foam/thermal barrier.

These two small areas didn't get treated because he'd already put those plastic bits back in place to help support the headliner when it was re-installed.

Getting them now.

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The work is amazing, wish i had time away from my other projects to spend more time on the cars.


Question on custom fiberglass sub enclosures. i have an Explorer and the JL stealth sub enclosure is ~$600 with a sub included. i have some older but still very functional 10W3' that are in a square box that will just take up too much room. I see no point in buying the JL box with another sub when i have some sitting around. What would be a ballpark price if i had someone make a fiberglass enclosure for a single sub? Any other place suitable in a 2013 explorer to put a sub that needs .9 CUFT of space?
 
The work is amazing, wish i had time away from my other projects to spend more time on the cars.


Question on custom fiberglass sub enclosures. i have an Explorer and the JL stealth sub enclosure is ~$600 with a sub included. i have some older but still very functional 10W3' that are in a square box that will just take up too much room. I see no point in buying the JL box with another sub when i have some sitting around. What would be a ballpark price if i had someone make a fiberglass enclosure for a single sub? Any other place suitable in a 2013 explorer to put a sub that needs .9 CUFT of space?

For the price you'd pay a shop to build a fiberglass enclosure you're better off buying the Stealthbox.

Did the math with a customer and between what they'd pay me to build a fiberglass enclosure they could buy the loaded Stealthbox and essentially come out with a free sub.
 
Popped the tweeter pod off the A-pillar and trimmed the grille cloth/CA/fiberglass with some nice scissors/shears from Milwaukee.

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Roloc wheel was used to knock down the edges.
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Then I put the little Snap-On 3" random orbit to use around the sides.
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Time to add more fiberglass filler, skim it with Poly-flex, and prime.
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Installed E-Z Loks at each of the amplifier mounting locations as well as screw locations for the fuse holder and the re-located motor for the power rear window.\n\nCarpeted the amp rack in a heavy black carpet. This wasn\'t as stretchy as stuff I\'ve used on enclosures in the past, but it\'s great for what we\'re doing here.\n\nI left the carpet over the opening for the cabin vents to give a cleaner look when the amp rack is installed.\n\n\nThen we moved back into the cabin and tucked a strip of carpet under the factory plastics under the rear window that was wide enough to tuck behind the amp rack. A few cuts allowed the carpet to fit snugly over the seat back retainer hoops. We also make holes and slots for the car seat loops.\n\n\nPower window motor mounted, DD Audio M3c mounted, and The Gnome is mounting the DD Audio 6-channel amplifier.\n

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Since there wasn't a location to place it on the amp rack, we decided to mount the factory amplifier under the rear seat. The Alpine H800 processor and the Limitless Lithium Cyber 6K will also live under the seat

A shot of the E-Z Loks. These allow things that are screwed into the boards to be screwed into the E-Z Loks instead of causing wear screwing/unscrewing into/out of the MDF. Machine screws into E-Z Loks. Won't wear out.

The MDF is a retainer plate that sits under the carpet. The machine screws pass through the carpet into the E-Z Lok. This keeps equipment secure with no holes in the body of the vehicle.

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Mounting brackets for the Alpine H800 mounted to the 1/2" MDF plate under the carpet.
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An overall shot of the equipment under the rear seat. A pair of lashing straps retain the Liimitless Lithium Cyber 6K. Those straps pass through the carpet (small slots cut) and under a 1/2" MDF plate, then back over to the top of the lithium.
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What does the factory amp do in that setup?:confused:

Keeps all the factory functions. We can't omit it.

This is a 2017 so we're using the Nav-TV GM-650 for integration. My BIL's 2019 has to use this unit with which you have to remove the factory amp.

You can view instructions for each product on those pages.
 
Keeps all the factory functions. We can't omit it.

This is a 2017 so we're using the Nav-TV GM-650 for integration. My BIL's 2019 has to use this unit with which you have to remove the factory amp.

You can view instructions for each product on those pages.

Kind of what I was thinking. No need for the instructions. Truck and audio build are way out of budget:laughing::laughing:
 
Isn’t mineral wool horrible for your lungs? Put a mask on that fucking gnome!:flipoff2:
 
Isn’t mineral wool horrible for your lungs? Put a mask on that fucking gnome!:flipoff2:

Why are you bringing up old stuff? :laughing:

Spent time wiring the truck today. I focused on making and running RCAs (DD Audio Z-wire), re-working some factory cabling, and stuff you don't notice/see.

The Gnome made power cables to run from the lithium battery to the fuse block, then to the amps. All 0 gauge OFC.

Some progress pics,

RCAs into the sub amp and the amp's remote knob cable.
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The Gnome making power cables. Spent a lot of time getting cable length right so they looked right when installed.
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Getting there.
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Factory amplifier wiring was broke down and re-wrapped so that it exited in the proper direction.
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Gave the input RCAs to the 6-channel a 90 degree twist and grouped them as they traveled down the amp rack
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Commander cable and output RCAs for the H800.

That's not TESA tape on that power cable on the right. That's a piece of abrasion-resistant material we removed from the factory amplifier wiring bundle.

I decided to re-use it here with the cable running next to the seat riser.
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Is it really necessary to make the rest of us look like hacks:flipoff2:

Seriously! I'm usually happy to just get the wires bundled together in a loom so that it doesn't look like big bird was trying to make a nest in my car. That wiring is artwork.
 
Seriously! I'm usually happy to just get the wires bundled together in a loom so that it doesn't look like big bird was trying to make a nest in my car. That wiring is artwork.

[Archer voice on] Do you want RF noise? Cause that's how you get RF noise. [Archer voice off]
 
[Archer voice on] Do you want RF noise? Cause that's how you get RF noise. [Archer voice off]

You'll notice I ran the RCA's at a 90 to the power cable to eliminate that as much as possible.
 
You'll notice I ran the RCA's at a 90 to the power cable to eliminate that as much as possible.

Yes, you know what you are doing as noted above.

I had a guy complain about the serious RF noise on his race radio. He had dual MSD's mounted under the dash. His coax antenna cable was about 5' to long. So instead of cutting to length he coiled it up and zip tied it down on top of the ignition box's..........
 
Yes, you know what you are doing as noted above.

I had a guy complain about the serious RF noise on his race radio. He had dual MSD's mounted under the dash. His coax antenna cable was about 5' to long. So instead of cutting to length he coiled it up and zip tied it down on top of the ignition box's..........

:laughing:
 
Seriously! I'm usually happy to just get the wires bundled together in a loom so that it doesn't look like big bird was trying to make a nest in my car. That wiring is artwork.

I've just got a powered sub thrown behind the seat. :laughing:
 
Man I thought I was hot stuff with a Kraco amp and a couple 6x9s mounted to the package shelf in the 70s
Love how you kept the factory jack installed
 
Man I thought I was hot stuff with a Kraco amp and a couple 6x9s mounted to the package shelf in the 70s
Love how you kept the factory jack installed

Owner has a camper that he tows. Useful to have so it was decided that it would stay.
 
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