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Any Love for OBS Fords in here?

Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
E4OD, cause that's what I have. If I could find the right manual, I'd run it, but I am getting older. Manual isn't as much fun as it used to be :rolleyes:
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I get annoyed with shifting at times, I get it.

You might be looking for deeper gears with 4.10s and 37s imo. But everyone is different.
 
I'd like to know more about this 05+ suspension swap. How much of a pain in the ass is it to do. I've wanted to dually swap my black truck posted above. Seeing yours REALLY makes me want to do it now.

:smokin:
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
E4OD, cause that's what I have. If I could find the right manual, I'd run it, but I am getting older. Manual isn't as much fun as it used to be :rolleyes:
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With my E4OD and 255/80-17 (33s) and 4.10s, I could use more power and/or more gear with my tuned 7.3 for towing anything more than a car trailer and car..
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I'd like to know more about this 05+ suspension swap. How much of a pain in the ass is it to do. I've wanted to dually swap my black truck posted above. Seeing yours REALLY makes me want to do it now.

:smokin:
Click to expand...



Rear 05+ bolts onto factory leafs. Have to build new axle side shock mounts (I have the dxf file from mine, happy to discuss making a set for ya on the plasma table). 05 rear sway bar and end links bolts right up. Rear diff speed sensor gets swapped for OBS axle to 05 axle. Need an adapter for the brake hose fitting. (Can't remember size off hand) use 05 softline.

Front- I used a kit from Ryd Motorsports. Basically adapts the 05 suspension to the OBS chassis (radius arm bkts, coil buckets, sway bar bkts, and panhard bkt). Uses Ford radius arms, 05 sway bar, etc. Kit is much easier to install on 4wd truck (holes drilled already). RYD definitely caters to the big gay truck crowd, but its pretty beefy stuff, customer service is a solid meh. Can't go much lower than mine sits in front without reworking their panhard bracket (gets into diff cover at full bump, could probably be clearanced to get more up travel).


Steering- 05+ box bolts on in stock location. Steering shaft slips right on. Need a pressure hose from a 99-03 7.3. Return line is easy.



I'm happy to do a full write-up build thread if y'all would like? I can show the good and bad of the RYD kit and explain what should be done different if anyone wants to do the swap themselves..


Edit- if you're gonna go through the hassle of drw swapping, do yourself the favor and do the 05+ swap. Rides great, parts are just as cheap or cheaper and easier to find. And its fucking BEEF :smokin:
 
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Well, I will chime in I guess. Picked up this 97 with 7.3 running 37's at the end of January this year out of Grand Junction Colorado. Only has 147K on the clock Stopped in McDonalds in Moab on the way home.

20200131_144258.jpg
 
Nvr-enough said:
Rear 05+ bolts onto factory leafs. Have to build new axle side shock mounts (I have the dxf file from mine, happy to discuss making a set for ya on the plasma table). 05 rear sway bar and end links bolts right up. Rear diff speed sensor gets swapped for OBS axle to 05 axle. Need an adapter for the brake hose fitting. (Can't remember size off hand) use 05 softline.

Front- I used a kit from Ryd Motorsports. Basically adapts the 05 suspension to the OBS chassis (radius arm bkts, coil buckets, sway bar bkts, and panhard bkt). Uses Ford radius arms, 05 sway bar, etc. Kit is much easier to install on 4wd truck (holes drilled already). RYD definitely caters to the big gay truck crowd, but its pretty beefy stuff, customer service is a solid meh. Can't go much lower than mine sits in front without reworking their panhard bracket (gets into diff cover at full bump, could probably be clearanced to get more up travel).


Steering- 05+ box bolts on in stock location. Steering shaft slips right on. Need a pressure hose from a 99-03 7.3. Return line is easy.



I'm happy to do a full write-up build thread if y'all would like? I can show the good and bad of the RYD kit and explain what should be done different if anyone wants to do the swap themselves..


Edit- if you're gonna go through the hassle of drw swapping, do yourself the favor and do the 05+ swap. Rides great, parts are just as cheap or cheaper and easier to find. And its fucking BEEF :smokin:
Click to expand...

You running the stock vacuum boost master cyl?

The brakes are probably the biggest weak point on my 97. I don't mind pulling grades slow. But quick stopping can be scetchy when heavy.

I may just do the 08+ calipers and ~10+ dodge rotors on mine and then go F-superduty hydro boost. I need to switch the rear axle anyway, so I may just redrill a 99-04 rear. Or just get an 05+ rear and run some minimal thickness adapters in the front since my 16s won't fit the bigger brakes.
 
49939928582_b5df72899e_c.jpg 20190304_105012 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

33583884008_27f87b439e_c.jpg 20190324_123738 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

heres mine.
92 f250 d60 front zf5 with a 13" southbend clutch. 7.3idi with a r@d stage 1 turbo, custom uppipe. 3" exhaust elbow and downpipe. intercooled. custom intake with a big Donaldson filter. Rear wheel dynoed at 460lbs of torque, i think i have a bit more now. thats double factory na and about equivalent to a stock 6.0. Does everything I need it to. I have been daily driving it for 4 years now. just about to hit 420,000 miles
All my friends are buying new trucks, but Id much rather spend a weekend a month on repairs/maintenance to keep this old truck on the road then to have to make payments. Its all manual including the windows. the only thing id really would like to do is get my down pipe to stop rubbing the fire wall.... And insulate the cab/doors to make it quieter on the highway.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You running the stock vacuum boost master cyl?

The brakes are probably the biggest weak point on my 97. I don't mind pulling grades slow. But quick stopping can be scetchy when heavy.

I may just do the 08+ calipers and ~10+ dodge rotors on mine and then go F-superduty hydro boost. I need to switch the rear axle anyway, so I may just redrill a 99-04 rear. Or just get an 05+ rear and run some minimal thickness adapters in the front since my 16s won't fit the bigger brakes.
Click to expand...


Yes, currently running the stock vacuum booster. That with the 05+ brakes will put you into the windshield, stops GREAT. But, I will say the pedal leaves a little bit to be desired, feels a little 'vague,' almost like how air brakes feel.


If your truck still has the RABS module (inside drivers frame rail, kinda under drivers foot), make sure to bleed the bleeder on that. Made a huge difference on my truck before doing the 05 swap. And then made a big difference after the swap (I forgot to rebleed it initially :homer:). Yes, the rear ABS still works on my truck, after the swap. Lol


That said, I'm probably going to swap to a hydro-boost set up, for 2 reasons. 1) Hoping it might give me a little better pedal feel. 2) Prepping for the possibly coming cummins swap.
 
I have fsuperduty hydro boost. 100% worth the time any money. Better stopping power, better pedal feel, more room in the engine bay.

Anyone know how to get a sag pump on a serpentine idi?
 
So I pulled my dump trailer packed full of "garden soil" (like 14-15k with the trailer) up a pretty good grade today. I wasn't expecting much speed, but usually if I hit a good grade heavy, 3rd gear will tractor on up. Today it just wasn't happy, engine temp got past the L in normal, and I was only seeing 10-12 lbs of boost.

I think I'm loosing boost through my semi hack IC piping. Does anyone make a kit for these? It's the E99 spyder and 6.0 IC, so nothing too crazy.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So I pulled my dump trailer packed full of "garden soil" (like 14-15k with the trailer) up a pretty good grade today. I wasn't expecting much speed, but usually if I hit a good grade heavy, 3rd gear will tractor on up. Today it just wasn't happy, engine temp got past the L in normal, and I was only seeing 10-12 lbs of boost.

I think I'm loosing boost through my semi hack IC piping. I used a set of 6.0 and SD 7.3 pipes, the 7.3 pipes were aluminum so I coupled them near the ac pump, that boot has a hole in it. Does anyone make a kit for these? It's the E99 spyder and 6.0 IC, so nothing too crazy.
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Well I answered my own question

https://www.carsonstaufferdiesel.com/products/csd-obs-intercooler-pipes?variant=3365935448090

Seems very reasonable for the pipes. I'll have to look at my boots and see if I need the boots since they're more than the pipes? :homer:
 
Anyone mess with their turbo? Mine is literally untouched with 330k. I almost just ordered a biller comp wheel, but then I figured may as well get the 1.0 housing, then may as well rebuild it. Then it's $500 in parts, maybe I should just spend a little more and get a drop in replacement? :laughing:​​​​​​

I don't plan to go any further than stage 1 injectors eventually. But I'd like a little quicker spool. I think the billet wheel alone is a good bang for the buck?

I'd also like to delete the fuel bowl, but keep the stock fuel pump for simplicity. Anyone have any info on that?
 
You might want to Talk to russ (type4) on obn he builds some nice stuff, justin might be burried...
 
love my 97 zf5 4x4. had it since 08 since i got out of usn a-school. got like 270xxx on the clock.

RUGER
 
I don't even know what the fuck you guys are talking about? :flipoff2:

Obn?

Wes?

I'm just supposed to search the whole internet for a russ and Wes? :flipoff2:


I'm just curious if anyone has used a billet wheel or other budget turbo upgrades. I've read about them in the diesel ricer forums, but those forums also say you don't need an intercooler with stock injectors :rolleyes:



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