A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[SLOWPOKE693]

This thing is bad ass ! Keep posting progress !

What he said.

 

[WaterH]

What he said.

X3, doors fit great!

 

[mobil1syn]

I was going to mount a tee bulkhead fitting in the center of the housing, then a single flex line up the driver side upper link. The brake plumbing on the axle led to an interesting conversation with a local road racer. He said if I mount the bulkhead tee off center, the wheel end with the shortest line will lock up first.

STOP ... you are overthinking it. keep it simple, keep it serviceable.

 

[Wisconsinite]

STOP ... you are overthinking it. keep it simple, keep it serviceable.

I overthink a lot of things . But I don't think the placement of the bulkhead T would make it drastically more or less serviceable. I mean, I guess it could.

The front truss (rear too, for that matter) are centered on the axle. It would not be hard to make both sides equal length, and that would satisfy my ocd. If it turns into a big no go, I will mount it where it fits best.

I ran into a snafu last night while playing with the ram plumbing.... When I started messing with the front limit straps, for some reason I never thought about checking clearance at full bump or articulated......... The tabs on the limit straps hit each other when mounted in the proper orientation. If I leave the bottom mounting bolt loose, the lower tab can rotate to the rear and doesn't cause interference. I may run it loose, and see what happens.

Can't do much outside tonight due to the weather, hopefully I can work on the rig a bit...

 

[Wisconsinite]

STOP ... you are overthinking it. keep it simple, keep it serviceable.

What's your thoughts on the difference in brake line length? Think there is any truth to that?

 

[mobil1syn]

I overthink a lot of things . But I don't think the placement of the bulkhead T would make it drastically more or less serviceable. I mean, I guess it could.

The front truss (rear too, for that matter) are centered on the axle. It would not be hard to make both sides equal length, and that would satisfy my ocd. If it turns into a big no go, I will mount it where it fits best.

so mount it where it fits, run the lines and move on the to the next item. i know where you are at in the project, focus on task completion before moving on the next. you run the risk of having to redo something but you have to move forward to see how it all works out.

as for the limit strap issue, can you move the lower mount lower and run a longer strap?

What's your thoughts on the difference in brake line length? Think there is any truth to that?

not enough to worry about

 

[Wisconsinite]

so mount it where it fits, run the lines and move on the to the next item. i know where you are at in the project, focus on task completion before moving on the next.

That is solid advice I will try to follow.

 

[WaterH]

What's your thoughts on the difference in brake line length? Think there is any truth to that?

Im no expert, but hard to believe there’s a difference. Isn’t that the whole reason of hydro brakes?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Im no expert, but hard to believe there’s a difference.

I'm with you on that.

If the system has no air in it and you apply xxx lbs of force to the fluid at the master cylinder, that same force should be generated equally throughout the entire system. The only way I can see something changing that would be rubber line length. If the LF caliper had a 10" rubber line going to it and the other 3 had 3" lines going to them I could possibly understand their being a pressure difference at the caliper with the longer line due to flex, but even then I don't think it would be drastic enough to cause issue.

Hmmmmmm....

 

[Im4yotas]

Brake line length differences would have a very, very small effect that an offroad rig will never notice. I could see on a road racer, where a 1/100th of a second advantage in the same corner over 100 laps makes enough difference to be worth worrying about, but not for us.

 

[rfr002]

Key words: road racer. They are concurred about brakes being repeatable so that they know exactly how hard they can get on them before locking them up. They also usually have the same amount of traction at each side of the vehicle (yes, corners blah blah. I'm saying the pavement is the same on both sides).

As others have said, offroad you'll never have the same amount of traction on both sides of the vehicle. Therefore, one side will almost always lock up before the other. And it might be the opposite side you'd expect.

 

[Wisconsinite]

As others have said, offroad you'll never have the same amount of traction on both sides of the vehicle. Therefore, one side will almost always lock up before the other. And it might be the opposite side you'd expect.

You think after all the work I put into it, I am going to risk damaging it off road and getting the polished links scratched??


And yes, you guys are right, I won't ever notice it. It was just an interesting convo, and wanted to get some more input.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Ahh, I didnt like how the dash was narrow to clear the stock cage. I was pretty disappointed how bad ass their JK dash was compared to the TJ. I haven't even looked at the cowl drain, whats the printed one look like?

Are you planning on running doors and a top? The dash is TIGHT with the doors when both are installed. I don't think there is 3/16 gap between the door panel and the dash panel.

If no doors are planned, then yes, you could make it wider.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I am at the point in the build now, where I spend all day dinking around on the jeep, and have nothing noteworthy to show.

Started messing around with line layout for the hydro steering, radiator, and trans cooler.

Trans lines are -8, and are mostly ran back to the trans.

Below are the -8 parker tough coat 4000 hoses to the ram. I have these little line seperators drawn up, and my little brother is 3d printing them out of polycarbonate. They are strong as hell. They will seperate the two hydro lines and a 3/16 brake line.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=ZV9HdUlLU1pEdkN5Mm4tbDU4eEFwSHNOeTVBVGJn

This was a fun one.... I ordered a straight thermostat housing to make the hose run as smooth as possible in the limited space available. I figured a ls water pump is a ls water pump is a ls water pump. So I ordered one up. ERRRRR, the LS3 and L92 water pumps have different thermostat housing bolt spacing, as I came to find out later.Upon installation, I realized this specific unit used a special thermostat. I am trying to limit the non-stock parts on this () so I can get part store replacement. I figured no big deal, chuck it in the lathe and open up the bore to accept the factory thermostat. Ten minutes later, go to bolt it on, and no go. Bolt spacing is off........ I called it a night after that.

You can see the hole is 1/3 diameter off....

 

[Bebop]

Be careful, there are also thermostat depth variations depending on your water pump :

 

[Wisconsinite]

Be careful, there are also thermostat depth varaitions depending on your water pump :

Interesting. I will have to look into that a little more. I am using the thermostat that came in the water pump. The housing is from CBM

 

[Wisconsinite]

Need some input from the board; I was hot to trot in regards to running a flipped intake so the filter would be in the cab sucking clean and cool(er) air. The flipped intake idea is possible, but it would kill most of my under dash space, and create a large opening in the firewall to patch and attempt to seal. The throttle body would be mid plane of the firewall, and make it real PITA. I ditched the idea and started messing with the intake in the normal position.

It is pretty tight, but doable for sure. I haven't given up on the in-cab filter situation, but am not sure if it is worth it/ or even THAT benificial?

I have the flanged coupler that will accept the filter in the cab, and then I was planning on welding a piece of AL tube to the engine side. Then use a silicon coupler to connect that to the main intake tube.

The filter would live in this area, right below the cowl/HVAC intake.

OOOOORRRR, just mount it in the engine bay, also doable.

At this point, I have the parts to go either way. WWID?

 

[Wisconsinite]

This was part of the reason for not wanting it in the engine bay sucking hot air.

 

[Jeffh555]

Intake in the cab will be loud, I'd avoid it for that reason.

 

[Bebop]

OOOOORRRR, just mount it in the engine bay, also doable.

At this point, I have the parts to go either way. WWID?

This, for sure.
Don't overthink the power loss, you're not doing max effort racing with this thing.

 

[Wisconsinite]

This, for sure.
Don't overthink the power loss, you're not doing max effort racing with this thing.

I agree that I am not racing, or trying to get every last % of power available. But at this point, it would be drilling 5 holes and a little welding.

 

[Bebop]

I just gave you my opinion. And it is that in-cab filter fucking blows. I don't even run one on an open buggy.

If you really want it inside the cab, flip the intake and add a spacer between the manifold and the TB. That way it won't be in the way of the firewall.

 

[mobil1syn]

Intake in the cab will be loud, I'd avoid it for that reason.

this, unless your racing no way i would
do it. listening to it suck air all day gets annoying.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Intake in the cab will be loud, I'd avoid it for that reason.

I just gave you my opinion. And it is that in-cab filter fucking blows. I don't even run one on an open buggy.

If you really want it inside the cab, flip the intake and add a spacer between the manifold and the TB. That way it won't be in the way of the firewall.

this, unless your racing no way i would
do it. listening to it suck air all day gets annoying.

Thanks guys. I was pretty set on having it in the cab. But after being a little more realistic, I am not building a race car and it would probably sound cool for about 10 mintues, then be annoying. I will probably mount in the engine bay and call it a day.

 

[gt1guy]

I don't think it would sound cool for even 10 minutes.

 

[csutton7]

Engine bay is my vote too.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Alright. It is pretty clear that the engine bay is the right choice for the filter. Thanks guys!

 

[Bebop]

Can I change my mind ?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Can I change my mind ?

Go for it!

The final form of this rig includes a rotary muffler right where the filter would go in the engine bay. My thinking with the filter in the cab was it would be a little more future proofed for when I add a turbo. But, that is a long way off, and when the time comes I can revisit the filter location. I am however going to keep the proposed filter location in the cab unobstructed to minimize rework in the future.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

If you mount it "inside" then create an open box around it so that the noise goes outside, while using the space inside.
Make sure a tire can not throw a rock into it and punch a hole.