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99-04 unit bearing brakes for 609 build

cadman929

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So been scratching my head im looking for some info on brakes to use on my 609 i know theres the branik leagacy stuff but im cheap and dont want to drop $1900 on brakes. So what i have is a trailgear 9” housing, 99-04 sd 60 knuckles, stock unit bearings machined to 5x5.5 and im looking for some info on brakes yes ive been searching but havent found anything good. As far as part numbers etc. if anyone has any info please chime in
 
I run 98 Tacoma rotors and 1987 ifs calipers (4 piston) on my 99-04 unit bearings that are 6x5.5. You could redrill the rotors to 5x5.5.
 
I run 98 Tacoma rotors and 1987 ifs calipers (4 piston) on my 99-04 unit bearings that are 6x5.5. You could redrill the rotors to 5x5.5.
Do you run the calipers on 99-04 knuckles?
 
Do you run the calipers on 99-04 knuckles?
Yep, simple and flat. I don’t have a picture of the second version that in set the caliper to get more rotor contact
 

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For my 609’s I’ll be running 99-04 F350 rear rotors opened up to fit the UB with the corresponding calipers on new brackets. Have one mounted, just need a caliper to draw up the new mounting bracket now.

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It looks like a 79 F150 rotor 5 x 5.5" is very close to a 98 Taco in height, the flat caliper bracket may need shimmed.
The F150 rotor is just a little bigger O.D. which would help fit in the Taco caliper.
The id of the rotors may need to be opened up to slip over.

I don't know the quality of Durago parts on Rock Auto but I do love that they have specs listed.



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97 Dodge Ram 1500 is another candidate the hat is shallower but the rotor is thicker so..heavy.

I would be tempted to drill a 5x5.5 pattern in the Toyota rotors just to save weight.


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Wasn’t 4x4toyotatyler building a 609 and documenting it in his podcast for a bit? He might have some input even though he went a different direction.
 
Wasn’t 4x4toyotatyler building a 609 and documenting it in his podcast for a bit? He might have some input even though he went a different direction.
IIRC he used Reid Super Kingpins with 05+ unit bearings which meant he physically can't run a 5x5.5 pattern anyway due to the size of the hub. I don't know whether he's 8x6.5 or 170mm, but I think he's using parts that don't much apply here. Was worth a shot though
 
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IIRC he used Crane Super Kingpins with 05+ unit bearings which meant he physically can't run a 5x5.5 pattern anyway due to the size of the hub. I don't know whether he's 8x6.5 or 170mm, but I think he's using parts that don't much apply here. Was worth a shot though
He went 8x170. Which everyone I know that has that bolt pattern regrets it.
 
So talking with mofab i kinda changed directions gonna have him open up and redrill my unit bearings for 8x6.5 and on my rear im going to use a set of 8x6.5” sterling 10.5” outers with the 9” center section. Ill leave this up though because theres definitely some good info for anyone doing a similar setup. The main deciding factor for me was my buggy, yj, and now the cj will all have the same pattern which will be nice for wheel interchangeability between the rigs
 
I'm going to use a set of 8x6.5” sterling 10.5” outers with the 9” center section.
I am curious to what axle shafts would be used?
35 spline (30*) Dana spline cut into a Sterling shaft
or

35 spline (45*) Sterling and a Mark Williams spool?
 
IIRC he used Crane Super Kingpins with 05+ unit bearings which meant he physically can't run a 5x5.5 pattern anyway due to the size of the hub. I don't know whether he's 8x6.5 or 170mm, but I think he's using parts that don't much apply here. Was worth a shot though
Reid not Crane
 
He went 8x170. Which everyone I know that has that bolt pattern regrets it.
Why? Plenty of wheels available and plenty of people running 8 on 170mm these days. I've never needed to bum a spare off someone, so is that really that big of a deal anyway?
 
Why? Plenty of wheels available and plenty of people running 8 on 170mm these days. I've never needed to bum a spare off someone, so is that really that big of a deal anyway?
Everyone I know has needed to bum a wheel and can’t. If I was going to run that pattern I’d have a spare wheel and tire at least on my trailer. Most the jk crowd is going to be crate axles on 8x6.5” now. Not many people build junkyard axles for those. I’ll be carrying a spare bored and redrill 99-04 unit bearing for myself.
 
Everyone I know has needed to bum a wheel and can’t. If I was going to run that pattern I’d have a spare wheel and tire at least on my trailer. Most the jk crowd is going to be crate axles on 8x6.5” now. Not many people build junkyard axles for those. I’ll be carrying a spare bored and redrill 99-04 unit bearing for myself.
burn = borrow ?

Why wouldn't you have a spare ?
 
burn = borrow ?

Why wouldn't you have a spare ?
Sorry yes borrow. Some guys thoughts are if they’re running a factory unit bearing not to carry a spare. Dunno it’s the jk crowd not the bouncer crowd.
 
Sorry yes borrow. Some guys thoughts are if they’re running a factory unit bearing not to carry a spare. Dunno it’s the jk crowd not the bouncer crowd.
That's just stupid
 
It looks like a 79 F150 rotor 5 x 5.5" is very close to a 98 Taco in height, the flat caliper bracket may need shimmed.
The F150 rotor is just a little bigger O.D. which would help fit in the Taco caliper.
The id of the rotors may need to be opened up to slip over.

I don't know the quality of Durago parts on Rock Auto but I do love that they have specs listed.



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The rotor thickness is the issue
 
I run 98 Tacoma rotors and 1987 ifs calipers (4 piston) on my 99-04 unit bearings that are 6x5.5. You could redrill the rotors to 5x5.5.
Just curious if there’s any reason you to 6x5.5 and that brake setup other than I assume you already had wheel setup for that?
 
Just curious if there’s any reason you to 6x5.5 and that brake setup other than I assume you already had wheel setup for that?
All because I had a set of boggers on 6x5.5 h1 wheels.
 

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So talking with mofab i kinda changed directions gonna have him open up and redrill my unit bearings for 8x6.5 and on my rear im going to use a set of 8x6.5” sterling 10.5” outers with the 9” center section.

I'd like to hear more about this. I'm building a 9" with full float outers. I was going to do 05+ unit bearings and weld on cups, but I'd really like to have an E-brake. I was thinking about using the spindle and disc brakes from a sterling so I could have the e brake AND easily match my super duty front.
 
I'd like to hear more about this. I'm building a 9" with full float outers. I was going to do 05+ unit bearings and weld on cups, but I'd really like to have an E-brake. I was thinking about using the spindle and disc brakes from a sterling so I could have the e brake AND easily match my super duty front.

Just put an ebrake caliper on the 05+ outer :confused:

Sterling outers limit you to 35sp.
 
Or just use a simple transmission brake on the rear t’case output & save having to run the e-brake cables to the rear axle.
Typically requires machine work most can't/won't do vs just buying a bracket you can booger onto there.
 
Just put an ebrake caliper on the 05+ outer :confused:

Sterling outers limit you to 35sp.
Maybe I should elaborate. I was trying to do most of this with off the shelf parts available at a parts store. I also like the idea of heavier rotors to soak up more brake energy. I don't think any of the lightweight kits offer much more than a 3/8 thick rotor. The easiest way I've seen to achieve this is like Skinny did it using the 99-04 rotors/calipers, but they are 1.5" thick. I was looking at Wilwood electric parking braking caliper to add to it, but they only go up to a 1.25" thick rotor. If I could get my hands on one, I'd study the idea of modifying it.
 
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