95 S10 2wd to V8 1 ton 4wd

[Skinny]

Big parts are in...

 

[YJLOPES]

Sorry been hammering in the shop. So I'm taking a stab at this one:

1989 CHEVROLET V2500 SUBURBAN 5.7L 350cid V8
CARDONE101873 (10-1873)Master Cylinder$ 36.79$ 0.001$ 36.79

This bolts on and reservoir fits under the hood. I saw an S10 build online with 1 ton brakes and they said it worked good.

I am running a disc/disc combination valve. Then the rear circuit goes through an adjustable proportioning valve. I am a ways away from testing brakes so it s question mark till the road test.

Rock Auto says that is a 1.125" bore. That sounds a bit small, but who knows? Looking forward to a report.

 

[Skinny]

The 1873 should be 1.5" ID...hope it's right. Already bolted it in so I'm not going to remove it to inspect. Rut Row shaggy

This is what I am referencing.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/1911-punch-list-dialing-2001-solid-axle-swap-chevy-s-10/amp/

 

[Skinny]

So the Cardone says 1.1" bore and the FVP both new and reman says 1.575"

Always something innit 🤦

I just measured the casting and the end is just about 1.5" which wouldn't exactly fit a 1.5" piston.

I'm going to run it. I assume if I don't have the fluid volume I'll have a low pedal. I do have a prop valve to dial it up a bit but at the end of the day if this MC doesn't work I either have to find another GM application or go aftermarket.

The issue on the S10 is it's mounted at an angle so the gallon sized reservoirs of the Silverado body style trucks will absolutely not fit. Also doesn't look like the reservoir swaps across the parts.

 

[Projectjunkie]

Lookout for the square body master having drum residual valves in the back, could cause dragging on disc's

 

[Skinny]

Lookout for the square body master having drum residual valves in the back, could cause dragging on disc's

So I can only find a reference to the valve being in the older all cast iron MCs. I am going to pull the lines off of mine and inspect with a paper clip to verify. That would really F my day up of they are in there.

The MC I'm using is a quick take GM so I wonder if the primary or the quick take end is 1.5" ID and the secondary is 1.1"

If I'm bored I'll take it apart but probably not. I've got a big list of shit to finish so I'll probably just run it and road test it.

 

[Projectjunkie]

So I can only find a reference to the valve being in the older all cast iron MCs. I am going to pull the lines off of mine and inspect with a paper clip to verify. That would really F my day up of they are in there.

The MC I'm using is a quick take GM so I wonder if the primary or the quick take end is 1.5" ID and the secondary is 1.1"

If I'm bored I'll take it apart but probably not. I've got a big list of shit to finish so I'll probably just run it and road test it.

It's been a while, but I've done a few drum to disc fords, and was ase certified at one point... but drum brakes get like an 8lb residual pressure valve to keep the shoes close to the drums, disc's get like 2lb since caliper seals do the job without pressure

Put disc's on a drum circuit and they drag, so you've gotta use a drywall screw to pull the tit out, then the spring and rubber then put it back together without a residual pressure valve at all

So maybe find a master from a 4 wheel disc setup the 1st time around, my $0.02

 

[arse_sidewards]

It's been a while, but I've done a few drum to disc fords, and was ase certified at one point... but drum brakes get like an 8lb residual pressure valve to keep the shoes close to the drums, disc's get like 2lb since caliper seals do the job without pressure

The residual valve became an oversize looking thread adapter fitting on the master at some point in the early 80s.

See that big brass fitting between the flare nut and the master in the rear hole. That's it.

Thanks for reminding me these exist because I bet I can halve the engagement distance for my front end loader brakes if I slap one on.

 

[_stucky]

I have a 91 k5 I used to drive that got a semi float 14 bolt swapped in with disks. The original master cylinder on it was terrifying. First I gutted the stock prop valve and put on an adjustable one, still terrible. Swapped to a 79 trans am master cylinder and was pretty happy with it. I used that same master cylinder and prop valve in my 04 s10. It’s still there.

I have a mechanic buddy that was building a 66 c10 for a customer. Did disks all around. He had a bunch of trouble trying to get the brakes acceptable with some aftermarket master cylinder that came with the disk swap stuff. I told him multiple times to try the trans am one. I even had one sitting there to go on my k20. He finally put it on, and was surprised at how much better the brakes were. It’s still there too.

I have no science for it, but I don’t think the square body master cylinder is worth the trouble to swap onto anything including a square body. For disk disk swaps, I’m a firm believer in the 79 trans am master cylinder.

 

[Skinny]

According to the interwebs the 79 Trans Am is a 4 wheel disc application with an 1 1/8" bore which is pretty good. That's why it works well with disc/disc swaps.

Two issues...

One, the S10 brake assembly is angled and very close to the hood so not everything fits including factory disc/disc truck MCs. The reservoirs are too big and they don't appear to interchange.

Two, the calipers on a 99-04 SuperDuty axle are a lot bigger then a half ton Chevy or El Dorado caliper used in most swaps.

So I think I'm going to need more blew then less. Good news is everything in this vintage is $30-60 so I'm open to seeing what works.

 

[Grendel]

I have a shit ton of masters if you want to try em.

 

[Skinny]

Thank you

I'm going to run this and see what happens. Cross the bridge when I have to.

Pretty sure this is what I have which would make sense as to why the bore is coming up with different dimensions.

GM 2 Stage Master Cylinder 1.125 and 1.5781 In. Bore (not compatible w/ Hydro-Boost)

GM 2 Stage Master Cylinder 1.125 and 1.5781 In. Bore (not compatible w/ Hydro-Boost)

www.powerbrakeservice.net

Looks like Wildwood only goes up to 1 1/8 max.

We shall see 🙈

 

[Skinny]

Looks like a 99 SuperDuty has two different MCs with either a 13/16" bore or a 1.375" bore so we are in the ballpark.

As long as I don't have any residual pressure check valves F'n my game up I should be set up for success here.

 

[Skinny]

Ok so did more interweb research. Looks like a 99 C3500 is a disc/disc configuration, has a 40mm bore for both circuits so not a quick take configuration, and the reservoir appears to be the same setup as the older trucks. So if it doesn't clear I can use the lower profile one I already have.

Dorman Products - M630028

Brake Master Cylinder

www.dormanproducts.com

Think I'm going to pull the trigger on it before going through the hassle of bleeding the system.

 

[posford]

Ok so did more interweb research. Looks like a 99 C3500 is a disc/disc configuration, has a 40mm bore for both circuits so not a quick take configuration, and the reservoir appears to be the same setup as the older trucks. So if it doesn't clear I can use the lower profile one I already have.

Dorman Products - M630028

Brake Master Cylinder

www.dormanproducts.com

Think I'm going to pull the trigger on it before going through the hassle of bleeding the system.

sounds logical

 

[Skinny]

Drove it out of the shop under its own power today. Still have a bunch of little things to finish but the end is in sight.

 

[rockota]

I dig those wheels.

Re: master cylinders. Dorman’s site allows a person to search by bore size and other criteria. Can be helpful for finding an MC based on specs vs trying by application.

 

[Skinny]

Thanks

That is good to know. Haven't road tested it yet. Pedal isn't terrible. Not great but not ruling it out yet.

 

[baldduck1974]

This build actually made me decide to register today, Ive been building a 93 S10 truggy, makes me wish i wouldve kept it simple. Looks good

 

[Skinny]

Nice! Congrats on joining.

Well big difference in usage. I'm sure at some point this thing will get all cut up on 40's. I'm putting all the parts in now to handle that. The NP242 may not be up for that but I've got 60s, all 1350 driveshafts heavy wall'd, lots of clearance up front, etc.

Today I got some cheapo shocks on and finished my Chinesium stainless exhaust. Running a flow through Dynomax. Hopefully it's not too loud but enough to say she's gotta a V8 under the hood. Have a "catalytic converter" to keep Greta happy. I invite her to stick her head through it to see how great it works🤣

 

[Skinny]

Truck finally made it onto the ground and driving. Found out that the Dana 60 and engine crossmember occupied the same space. Fab'd up a new crossmember.

Installed a new PSC pump even though the 80-96 application doesn't actually fit an 80-96 engine.

Front driveshaft contacts the body when I give her the beans in low range. Need to clearance that with a BFH.

Brakes are pretty good. Pedal is a little low for my liking but all my other junk has rear drums so the pedals are high and hard. For a 4 wheel disc it is probably fine. Stops like 10 motherfuckers. Going to run it for awhile as is.

Steering is pretty good, actually better then I thought. Standard ratio box with a Waggy arm gives me full lock to lock with the SuperDuty axle. Though the T style steering with the forward facing pitman would give it a lot of weird characteristics which are non-existent including the usual vague center feel. All seems good.

Suspension is too soft. Very twitchy at speed, not a one hander. Thinking about getting some new leafs first. If that doesn't help then I'll drive into new shocks and sway bar.

Need to work on a winch mount now. Don't want to get into a whole bumper just yet. Pretty happy with how it came out stance wise.

 

[Levigarrett76]

 

[rattle_snake]

Hell Ya