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95 S10 2wd to V8 1 ton 4wd

Skinny said:
Neither have I. I used to post all the time. Then it seemed like members started to get some pretty thin skin over anything that was counter to what they say followed up with a temp ban.

There is a lot of useful information on that site but I no longer contribute. I don't have much time for retarded riff raff anymore.

Thanks!

This build doesn't seem to get much traffic. I guess V8 S10's on narrowed 1 tons is boring now🤣

I'll keep posting.
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"I don't have much time for retarded riff raff anymore."


You came to the wrong place. This is literally the mullet section. lol. But we're mostly good dudes. Keep documenting the build, I have a 4 door 2002 S10 that has 05+ SD axles, a ecobox/205, and 42" Pitbulls that's almost done
 

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Haha

Let me rephrase...I am the retarded riff raff. I just don't like it when you say something to a grown man and then they fill out a hurt feelings report with the moderator.

Cool, do you have a build thread?
 
Worked on mocking up steering with an WFO dropped draglink. It fit very nicely.

The factory S10 pitman which is 6" hole to hole with about a 3" drop actually has enough throw to turn the SuperDuty axle lock to lock which was unexpected.

It does clear the spring but I'm going to try a Wagoneer arm which is one inch longer and has less drop which should get it further away from the spring.
 

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_stucky said:
Look at the partsmike pitman arm that is flat. The waggy arm is a bit weak. I have the partsmike one on my s10 with an Astro box.

1PM536FPA PITMAN ARM - Flat undrilled - 5.25" - 7"

PITMAN ARM - Flat undrilled - 5.25" - 7"
www.partsmike.com
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I saw that one. I was questioning if it would be too high and put the castle nut into the frame. Ordered a Waggy arm last night. We will see how it looks.

This is still a proof of concept at this stage. Once I get the truck on the ground driving to see how it feels I will tweak it.

I'm not too happy with how far away the draglink is from the tie rod. I'd like to push the steering box back a few inches to get them more parallel. If I do that I'll probably go to a flat arm, drill it out for the exact amount of throw I need, and make it perfect.

I actually think the S10 has the perfect amount of throw I need which is weird considering it's a 1 ton axle.
 
Measuring for shock mounts, figuring out where all that is going to land. I've got about 6" of wheel travel. I'm ok with that, any more and the oil pan would be eating pumpkin.
 

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Cool build, not sure how I hadn't noticed it.

I like the concept of maintaining track width and a low ride height on these s10s.

I never really considered them because they normally end up full width and taller then I want to lift my leg to get into.

Out of curiosities sake, did you go tbi 5.7 over an vortec or Ls just because it was cheap?
 
Thanks

In new New England the full width doesn't work very well. That and I didn't want to go that crazy so keeping the tires under the fenders is an important part of the build.

The 5.7 TBI swap into a 4.3 TBI truck is just about the easiest swap ever. It was literally stick the radiator into the core support, headers, motor mounts, then program the EEPROM chip.

The LS is probably far superior in every way but way more money. The TBI engine is very antiquated but still works well. If my truck had a CPI 4.3 I probably would have gone LS. But since my fuel system and ECM was a simple swap that's really what pushed me.

I'm sure if if rebuild the engine it would be a lot better. The old girl has a quarter of a million miles on her so it's tired. But it goes when I get in the skinny pedal.
 
This is nothing short of awesome. Did i miss what t-case is going in?
 
Thank you!

Using a 242 from a Grand Cherokee. Used a Tom Woods SYE so it's 32 spline on both outputs.
 
More Ford parts for this Chevy. Towers are welded on.

Astro glide steering box mounted up with a Waggy arm. Today I put a Holley steering shaft in as the factory rubber pick has seen its final day. It had a quarter inch of play with just the box mounted. Whoops... Steering is finalized aside from bleeding.

Tranny is out and ready for the transition.
 

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Finalized an engine crossmember that is removable so you can service the bottom end. Pulled the pan and did a rear main and gasket. Just some housekeeping while it's easy.

Put some new HD S10 springs in out back. Was still sitting a tad low so I moved the shackle hanger below the frame. Sits pretty good considering it's a box of mismatched LEGOs.

I think once the springs settle and a winch bumper goes on it will be balls on. We will see.

No pics but I've got a 1 ton MC on and I'm reworking all the brake lines with some cupro nickel to all the new flex lines.

I cut the control mounts off last night and I'll be slinging the axle back in for the last time.
 

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You gonna box what’s left of the coil pockets in the frame?
 
Once I get the truck together I will. Most likely box then in and use that pocket for bumpstops.

I get into analysis paralysis easily and everything turns into a full frame off. So my main goal is to get it together then in another round go through and finish details like that.

I have seen guys cut the pockets out and make a new frame rail. I didn't want to get into that. Not opposed to it but putting a plate over the hole may be just fine.
 
Today's progress...
 

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Skinny said:
Once I get the truck together I will. Most likely box then in and use that pocket for bumpstops.

I get into analysis paralysis easily and everything turns into a full frame off. So my main goal is to get it together then in another round go through and finish details like that.

I have seen guys cut the pockets out and make a new frame rail. I didn't want to get into that. Not opposed to it but putting a plate over the hole may be just fine.
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Boy do I hear you there. I like the motto David Frieburger pitches - don’t get it right, get it running.
 
Frieburger is King!!!

Yeah I always bring myself back to making this a runner and not a show truck.

I have a strict deadline to get it out of storage before the snow hits so my nice trucks can be out of the weather and this POS being beaten like it owes me money.
 
Skinny said:
Frieburger is King!!!

Yeah I always bring myself back to making this a runner and not a show truck.

I have a strict deadline to get it out of storage before the snow hits so my nice trucks can be out of the weather and this POS being beaten like it owes me money.
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Saw pics of snow in Colebrook this morning, get working! :flipoff2:
 
Skinny said:
No pics but I've got a 1 ton MC on and I'm reworking all the brake lines with some cupro nickel to all the new flex lines.
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What MC did you go with? I think I'm going to go with the same brakes front/rear. There is an easy bolt in for my jeep that is a 1.25" bore. I'm cautiously optimistic that will be in the ballpark of what I need to push these big calipers.
 
Are you working on a yj? I used a 2000 dodge 1 ton Cummins 4x4 master cylinder with the factory 95 dual diaphragm booster and had good results. I think I had to extend the rod, which was just a bolt widdled down
 
_stucky said:
Are you working on a yj? I used a 2000 dodge 1 ton Cummins 4x4 master cylinder with the factory 95 dual diaphragm booster and had good results. I think I had to extend the rod, which was just a bolt widdled down
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That’s my plan. I’m curious what bore Skinny is using.

What brakes are you running?
 
I have 1/2 ton calipers on a 60 and 70 in the yj. My 04 s10 has a 79 trans am with disk brakes master cylinder, factory booster, same 1/2 ton calipers on a 44/14. My 87 k20 has the same trans am master, the stock booster and front calipers on a 60, with whatever calipers are on an 04 14b. They all stop pretty well. They all have a simple adjustable prop valve on the rear line.

Edit: extending the rod may have been on the s10 but I think it was the yj.
 
Sorry been hammering in the shop. So I'm taking a stab at this one:

1989 CHEVROLET V2500 SUBURBAN 5.7L 350cid V8
CARDONE101873 (10-1873)Master Cylinder$ 36.79$ 0.001$ 36.79

This bolts on and reservoir fits under the hood. I saw an S10 build online with 1 ton brakes and they said it worked good.

I am running a disc/disc combination valve. Then the rear circuit goes through an adjustable proportioning valve. I am a ways away from testing brakes so it s question mark till the road test.

Got the tranny and tcase jammed in there. Driveshafts should be in this week. Shout out to Tom Woods for a super fast turn around.

Once they are in I can mock up the exhaust, crossmember, and finalize the rear spring perches.
 
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