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'95 Ram 3500 12v - school me

any reason to not get a breadvan flywheel housing and run a SBF ford ZF5?

then you can toss a dirt cheap 05+ superduty 60 under it too (I forget if dodge is passenger drop in those years)

re: paint run it as is, eventually the roof will leak, then you bedliner over the rust holes or stick the motor into a better shipping crate, again 05+ superduties got nice running gear other than the engines
 
Ram is driver drop.

I don't see much of a reason to run SD stuff other than ball joints and u-joints will last longer. But it's also probably 30% heavier, which would take away from my max combined weight.
 
You buy this truck yet? I do i need to get it for myself?

You're thinking way too much about weight if you think adding an axle matters. You already stated it would be <10k which is childs play for that chassis.
 
bgaidan said:
Ram is driver drop.

I don't see much of a reason to run SD stuff other than ball joints and u-joints will last longer. But it's also probably 30% heavier, which would take away from my max combined weight.
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in that case keep it 2wd, get a detroit for the d70
I ran into the same thing with my truck, was gonna do the 4wd thing but realized that I don't want to jump through all the hoops to get enough plates for any actual amount of payload
thus it remains 2wd and I actually removed the big heavy jib crane I made outta old in ground car hoist parts
been thinking about a lighter engine than the 900lb boat anchor IDI, too, for what I do I don't even really use the 120 or so hp it puts to the wheels anyways
 
Detroit or not that things still gonna suck with the cummins up front and no weight in the rear. Plus 2wd sucks anyway. :flipoff2:
05+ F450/550 axles would be pimp. The benefit of a kingpin front is you can leave the rear alone and keep 8x6.5 wheels.
You can probably fit a divorced 205 behind the current auto pretty easy left or right drop.

First thing would probably be to buy it and fix whats wrong though.:flipoff2:
 
Dan said:
Detroit or not that things still gonna suck with the cummins up front and no weight in the rear.
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eh man, it made an amazing difference in my 2wd drw 12' flatbed
it ain't no 4wd but it doesn't weigh anything and it goes in in a few hours
 
[486] said:
eh man, it made an amazing difference in my 2wd drw 12' flatbed
it ain't no 4wd but it doesn't weigh anything and it goes in in a few hours
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The weight of the 12' flatbed alone would help. Its not a bad idea and if you ever go 4x4 you'll already have a detroit and lockers are always nice to have.

I guess I just don't like 2wd trucks.:homer:
 
Dan said:
The weight of the 12' flatbed alone would help. Its not a bad idea and if you ever go 4x4 you'll already have a detroit and lockers are always nice to have.

I guess I just don't like 2wd trucks.:homer:
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2wd is fine if all you do is burn up the highway. The ass end is light regardless of what's up front.
 
Projectjunkie said:
Buy it yet?
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It's mine, just haven't worked out logistics to getting it home. It's about 2.5 hours away. Won't fit on my trailer with the duals but should with the outside tires off....but still borderline on overloading my trailer. Seller offered to deliver it since we're doing a partial trade for an axle I have so may just take him up on that. One way or another it should be in my (junk)yard next weekend.
 
Nice, I'll buy every single one of those if it's cheap enough

For $30 throw an "over flow valve" at it, along with a fresh fuel filter
 
Everyone say welcome to my new shitshow. :laughing:

I was worried that this was going to turn in to a BDL when I was headed to pick it up, but I don't think it could have fit any more perfectly on my trailer. Almost perfect tongue weight and pulled like a dream. Actually felt better than either of my wheeling rigs on there. Though I do suspect I may have been a couple hundred pounds over weight on those axles. 7k trailer that weighs probably 2k. Truck weighs 5,615 according to the manual.....so actually perfect if I had 600+ on the tongue.

1622901707626.png



Good news is that the body is actually really straight, except for a hole in one dually fender and obviously the front bumper. Not sure if the black is originaly paint, but the upper half used to be red. It's straight rust now....but no holes or cancer. Interior is a little gross, but otherwise not completely roached out. Once nice split down the center of the dash, which seems typical.


First step is to actually get it running and diagnose the shitty running/fuel issue. As soon as I can confirm that the engine is healthy, I'll put together the plan on how she'll get built.
 
I suggest buying a new fuel filter and a new water in fuel sensor that fits in the fuel filter and swap the filter before trying to start. You will have to cycle the bulb on the lift pump 300-350 times to prime the system well enough to start. I made a tool so i dont have to lean in to push the bulb.
 
Great truck to have around :smokin:

There's so much you can do with them, between just cleaning it up and using it, or swapping to 4wd and building whatever you wanted

You'll spend money on the manual swap, expect to pay 3k for a nv4500 flywheel to drive shafts

You could buy a builder 4wd auto tranny and t case for $600 and have it built

Depending on your time, skills, budget, etc, (How bad you hate autos) maybe have the tranny built with some upgrades and clean the truck up, then swap a 60 and divorced t case in later...

Anyways, keep us posted
 
I'm leaning toward the G56 over the 4500....just because. Supposedly it's a direct swap (including swapping the flywheel) and slight mod to the mount/cross member.


What kind of t-case to the later models have? Push button or manual shift?

I actually have a KP 60 sitting in my driveway right now with no real plans for it on my other projects so it's most likely going under this
 
bunk said:
I suggest buying a new fuel filter and a new water in fuel sensor that fits in the fuel filter and swap the filter before trying to start. You will have to cycle the bulb on the lift pump 300-350 times to prime the system well enough to start. I made a tool so i dont have to lean in to push the bulb.
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No. Fill your new filter with ATF and then fire it up. Fucker shouldn't even skip a beat.
 
My 3rd gen with the g56 had manual shift.
 
bunk said:
Fuel or atf, still gonna need to pump tf out of the lift pump
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why? ive let the engine do the pumping dozens of times

crack most of the injectors crank it till fuel comes then close the injectors, always works for me, that is on older mechanical diesels like a 12v
 
bunk said:
Fuel or atf, still gonna need to pump tf out of the lift pump
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Sounded like you were priming an mt filter. I've changed the filter a few times and can't remember ever touching the little weed eater button on the pump.
 
2/4 drop with helper airbags, 4th gen alcoas, build the 47re, crank up the pump, he351 turbo, new paint. Leave it hooked up to a trailer and burn up the highway.

Leave it two tone red and black. That's iconic of the generation.
 
Yeah, just lower it and then when you need to do real work you can use your other truck.:flipoff2:

But at least it will look cool burnin' up and down the highway, in the city, or on the pavement.
 
Dan said:
Yeah, just lower it and then when you need to do real work you can use your other truck.:flipoff2:

But at least it will look cool burnin' up and down the highway, in the city, or on the pavement.
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dunno man, little bit lower can be better
easier to load
and its 2wd so it'll need some good tow hooks anyways
 
rockyota83 said:
why? ive let the engine do the pumping dozens of times

crack most of the injectors crank it till fuel comes then close the injectors, always works for me, that is on older mechanical diesels like a 12v
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Cause the starter is designed to start the engine, not prime the fuel system like the primer bulb is designed for. Plenty of ways to skin a cat, but some dont create issues down the road ya know?
 
bunk said:
Cause the starter is designed to start the engine, not prime the fuel system like the primer bulb is designed for. Plenty of ways to skin a cat, but some dont create issues down the road ya know?
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that's why you feed it ether until it primes, duh.

:flipoff2:
 
bunk said:
Cause the starter is designed to start the engine, not prime the fuel system like the primer bulb is designed for. Plenty of ways to skin a cat, but some dont create issues down the road ya know?
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I don't bother with the primer. Take less than a minute of cranking to prime and fires off.

pro tip: start and immediately rev to no less than 2,000 rpm after changing the fuel filter, and it'll stumbles for a second as air passes through, done. :laughing:
 
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