What's new
By:
Filters

'95 Ram 3500 12v - school me

bgaidan

bgaidan

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Member Number
2322
Messages
2,941
Been casually looking for an old new tow rig to ditch my modern diesel. Was planning on picking up a late 90's 7.3, but this 12v cummins kind of fell in to my lap. Supposedly ran well and had a bunch of engine work done and then started having what sounds like fuel problems. I'm getting it cheaper than the value of the 12v core block so I'm not overly worried about it, but I'm hoping it's just filters or worst case the pump.

It's 2wd, auto. Plan would be to swap it to a manual and 4wd. Or at least swap in the t-case with the trans and do the front axle later. Has some cosmetic issues, but no major rust or cancer. It'll probably get a rattle can or bedliner paint job. I figure when it's all said an done, I won't have more than $7-8k in to it, and that's a very worst case scenario.

Idea is to build this for occasional towing and get rid of my '16 diesel Titan while the values are still ridiculous. Probably pick up a smaller truck or SUV to drive for work. (Currently alternate between my truck and my little G37).


Sooo....for a 12v newb, what's going to bite me in the ass on this deal?
 
Kdp is the killer in those engines. If it hasn't been fixed, or hasn't fallen out yet, it will.

95 is p-pump, pretty basic setup. The 95-97s have the better p-pumps that can be tuned/built for big power iirc.

Not a whole lot else other than Kdp to look out for. They're pretty solid all around. The bodies/interiors in those trucks are the bad part of that truck.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Not a whole lot else other than Kdp to look out for. They're pretty solid all around. The bodies/interiors in those trucks are the bad part of that truck.
Click to expand...
Don't forget the frame that rusts out at the splice, the CAD D60 (which should be fine if you stick to stock-ish sized tires) and a front steering/suspension that does its best to give a Chevy truck a run for its money when it comes to eating wear items.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Kdp is the killer in those engines. If it hasn't been fixed, or hasn't fallen out yet, it will.

95 is p-pump, pretty basic setup. The 95-97s have the better p-pumps that can be tuned/built for big power iirc.

Not a whole lot else other than Kdp to look out for. They're pretty solid all around. The bodies/interiors in those trucks are the bad part of that truck.
Click to expand...
Had to look up kdp.....seems like an easy enough fix.

The body looks straight, but the paint is rough to non-existent. Definitely nearing the point where it needs to be taken care of or it's going to turn to cancer. I'll likely hit it with a tinted bed liner all over. I think it needs one dually fender, front bumper and headlights.
1621425792047.png


Interior needs a good cleaning, but doesn't look horrible. There may not even be any cracks on the dash. :laughing: Not a fan of the red...but, whatever.

1621426600562.png



The goal for this thing is to have it as reliable as possible so that I'd have no concerns loading up a couple rigs and driving 2k miles west for a week or two of wheeling. Other than that, it'll probably only see a few thousand miles a year.

I'm hoping with about a $6k budget I can take care of any mechanical issues, drop in a manual trans and t-case, paint and other cosmetic issues and still have a little left over for some power upgrades.
 
Mmmmm porno red! I’d run it as is while putting together a cool chassis & body to drop the engine in.
 
rockota said:
just say no to bedliner paint jobs....
Click to expand...

It's that or tractor paint sprayed from my gravel driveway on a windy day with not so dry compressor air. :flipoff2:


I'd lean toward a subtle dark to medium gray liner with just enough texture to cover any imperfections.


Edit:
Or just clear coat the bitch to stop the rust and run it as-is? :laughing:
 
bgaidan said:
It's that or tractor paint sprayed from my gravel driveway on a windy day with not so dry compressor air. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Don't you have a "brand new to you" compressor with dryer? :p

I'm all for tractor paint... did an 8n with a cheap Harbor Freight ($17) HVLP gun - single stage - turned out well.
 
rockota said:
Don't you have a "brand new to you" compressor with dryer? :p

I'm all for tractor paint... did an 8n with a cheap Harbor Freight ($17) HVLP gun - single stage - turned out well.
Click to expand...
Turns out 7.5hp single phase motors are really expensive and hard to find used/surplus. The big compressor(s) will be shelved until a find a deal on motors. Although I need to plumb that drier in to my old emglo and see if it just needs pressure and/or flow to cure the error code.
 
You can tab the kdp or get a newer style front cover that has tapered holes where the dowel goes. Headgaskets seep near the t-stat and can get real bad, fuel lines going to lift pump tend to fail at the worst time. I would highly suggest getting a 5600 trans as the gear splits on a 4500 suck for heavy towing.
 
bunk said:
I would highly suggest getting a 5600 trans as the gear splits on a 4500 suck for heavy towing.
Click to expand...
Oooh....I like that. Not sure if it'll be in the budget at first, but I'll be looking when the time comes to swap.
 
rockota said:
just say no to bedliner paint jobs....
Click to expand...
This, that's how you ruin a trucks value and tell the world you're a cousin fucker.

Clean truck otherwise. Cant help with how it runs because you gave no symtoms.

For $6k budget, reshoot it, reasonable injectors/turbo, build the auto if needed, catch up on maintenance. You cant lose on it that way.
 
You can chew up 6k on a manual transmission swap pretty easily if you buy everything new.

Friend of mine has used high-impact with good success. When I'm ready to stick in a new nv4500 in my truck, I'll use them:

high-impact.net

Transmissions - Manual -

high-impact.net
 
TRINDU said:
This, that's how you ruin a trucks value and tell the world you're a cousin fucker.

Clean truck otherwise. Cant help with how it runs because you gave no symtoms.

For $6k budget, reshoot it, reasonable injectors/turbo, build the auto if needed, catch up on maintenance. You cant lose on it that way.
Click to expand...


From what I was told it started "bucking" while at speed like it was starved for fuel. It had been rebuilt and then sat for a while. Very possible it's just filters or lift pump, but I'll be prepared to replace/rebuild the injection pump.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
You can chew up 6k on a manual transmission swap pretty easily if you buy everything new.

Friend of mine has used high-impact with good success. When I'm ready to stick in a new nv4500 in my truck, I'll use them:

high-impact.net

Transmissions - Manual -

high-impact.net
Click to expand...

A nv4500 is about $800 used, really hasnt changed much in 10-15 years.

A cummins "swap kit" sells for about $2500. That's typically the first thing to go when parting one out.

Buying everything new will definitely eat up more than just building the auto.
 
NV4500s aren't that cheap mid-south east coast, not that i've seen. Saw one ad for a "used but good, not beat" nv4500 that was behind a 1500hp engine apparently, for almost $1500. Not beat, thought that was funny.

If this is going to be a tow pig, don't go nuts with the injectors/turbos. A set of twins from PDD would be sweet, but entirely unnecessary. Clutches become the weak point with decent engine power while towing, so IMO don't go nuts. I had to put a twin-disk in one of my trucks with just injectors to keep the clutch from slipping while towing (~25k gross weight). Keep that in mind if you intend to go stick.
 
The thing is only rated for 18k combined from the factory and I don't plan to push it too far past that for legal/liability reasons. Goal is reliable with enough power to not have to do 45 up the NC/TN mountains.


Are the 5600's that much better than the G56? Seems like the G56 is a little more readily available and a bit lighter due to the full aluminum case.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
95 is p-pump, pretty basic setup. The 95-97s have the better p-pumps that can be tuned/built for big power iirc.
Click to expand...
'96-'98 (pre 24V) had the better pumps.

The 4500 gear splits do suck for towing, but it's manageable. If you're going to do the 6 speed, do it the first time. Driveshaft lengths, trans mount location, and input shaft are different so it's not as easy as just swapping the trans.

A plate in the fuel pump is of course a must, and a boost elbow. The governor springs help a lot and aren't too expensive. Do a basic 4" exhaust. At this point you're into an expensive clutch. Next step would be a turbo, the hot budget turbo swap used to be the HE351 from an '04.5-07 5.9. The injectors likely need at least a refresh at this point, might as well get a set of 5 x .012s.

And no on the bedliner paint.

Pete
 
bgaidan said:
The thing is only rated for 18k combined from the factory and I don't plan to push it too far past that for legal/liability reasons. Goal is reliable with enough power to not have to do 45 up the NC/TN mountains.


Are the 5600's that much better than the G56? Seems like the G56 is a little more readily available and a bit lighter due to the full aluminum case.
Click to expand...

Just bump it up to 300/600 and itll be more than enough. He351, plate, and injectors as the other guy stated.

The auto/4500/5600 is a moot point for me. I've put 20k behind all of them and they did the job just fine. 6 one way, half dozen the other on 5600 vs g56. Theres tricks to both.

I'd check the bands on the trans and go from there
 
Out of curiosity... feedback/review of the Cummins Titan?
 
rockota said:
Out of curiosity... feedback/review of the Cummins Titan?
Click to expand...

Like the idea.

Love the ride. It's plush and rides like a cadilac.

Tows great for what I need - no problem pulling my 7k carhauler at 70mph over the mountains in NC and TN. My old gas titan would overheat and do about 50 up black mountain.

They did a horrible job marketing them. I've lost count of how many people didn't even know they were made and hardly anyone knows they have a 5.0 V8.....everyone just assumes it's the same I6 as the ram.

It's a goofy class. It's not a 3/4 ton, but it's way overbuilt for a half ton....even though newer half tons have almost the same tow rating, I'd tow 12k with this thing before an F-150 or 1500. It's technically a 5/8 ton truck, but it really could be rated as a 3/4. It weighs 8k lbs, has an asin trans that's nearly the same as the upgrade on the 3500 ram, and the rear axle is a semi float version of what's in the the 3/4 ton ram.

They dropped the ball with warranty support and addressing obvious problems. I went through 3 EGR coolers under warranty. I deleted as soon as it was out of warranty. My engine locked up a few thousand miles later.

I lost an engine at 102,500.....it had a 100k warranty. It took a phone call to Nissan USA and the service manager at my local dealer really stepped up in dealing with them and they eventually covered the replacement. (Would have been $14k). Mine's a '16 (first year) and those are the ones that seemed to be failing the most. Lots of theories on why - bad crank forgings, resonance from the harmonic balancer, bad injector harness causing an injector to get stuck open and washing a cylinder. Nissan/Cummins certainly aren't going to admit to it and they don't let the dealers tear them down so it's all internet theory at the moment.

My problem is that I no longer trust it and I don't know if/when the engine is going to let go again. I can't afford to be 2,000 miles from home and have that happen. I feel like I can drop some $$ in to this old mechanical 12v and make it near bullet proof and take it anywhere. And if it does have issues, it's going to be a hell of a lot easier to work on.
 
The G56 is a good transmission. Just noisy with a single mass flywheel.
 
buc4x said:
The G56 is a good transmission. Just noisy with a single mass flywheel.
Click to expand...

The gear rollover noise is because some dumbfuck spec'd ATF4.

Overfill it a quart through the shifter with synthetic 50w and its quiet as a mouse. IIRC delvac was the one to use.
 
bgaidan said:
Like the idea.


They did a horrible job marketing them. I've lost count of how many people didn't even know they were made and hardly anyone knows they have a 5.0 V8.....everyone just assumes it's the same I6 as the ram.
Click to expand...
Most of the XD's around here are the diesel... of course, Nissan's NA HQ is in Cool Springs....

Agree on the marketing, overall. Nissan seems to lag in that department. Neighbor just bought a 2021 XD Gas... seems to like it so far...
 
It is crazy how the 5th gear nut gives problems on a Dodge NV4500 behind a Cummins. My transmission has a Chevy main shaft, tail housing, 5th gear, and the internal damper. Everything related to 5th gear is shot including the cluster shaft. The 5th gear nut only had red Loctite and never backed off. I was towing in 5th gear at 24k a lot.
 
If you end up getting that, I have a kdp kit I'll send you for the cost of shipping. I bought it to do first thing to my last 2 trucks and both already had it done when I got in there. So, 2 dowels, 2 cover tabs, 2 bolts extra. You would just need a crank shaft seal and tube of Rtv for the timing cover. Let me know I guess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh