6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

[YotaAtieToo]

On my 22 it doesn't say Regen required until 100%

Someone mentioned that it should give an option to manually regen above 80%?

I did a '19 550 at work and you can't prevent the idle regens due to PTO strategy. If yours doesn't have PTO it might be different, the c&c are definitely not the same as pickups though

Not a pto, but does have a large inverter that we use when fusing pipe. I think it's absolutely retarded to idle a modern diesel to power a 3kw inverter instead of just using a small generator, but oh well, that's how they set the truck up.

 

[CarterKraft]

Someone mentioned that it should give an option to manually regen above 80%?



Not a pto, but does have a large inverter that we use when fusing pipe. I think it's absolutely retarded to idle a modern diesel to power a 3kw inverter instead of just using a small generator, but oh well, that's how they set the truck up.

Does it have the manual Regen switch?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Does it have the manual Regen switch?

No

 

[Snowy]

Someone mentioned that it should give an option to manually regen above 80%?



Not a pto, but does have a large inverter that we use when fusing pipe. I think it's absolutely retarded to idle a modern diesel to power a 3kw inverter instead of just using a small generator, but oh well, that's how they set the truck up.

You have the option to command a regen on a 2011-2016 6.7 when the truck is fully warmed up, in park, with a soot load over 80%.

You have to hold the ok button on the wheel a couple of times to flip through the parked in a safe spot, without the exhaust pointing at small children warnings.

 

[CarterKraft]

No

Nothing to back this up but I think that is required on c&c trucks for full control

 

[Tiha]

Don't trust the percentages. On my Son's 3.0 F150 it does not regen until 200% or maybe it was 300% not sure, but either way. Not what you think it would be.

In order to do any regen, manual or automatic it is true that all the conditions have to be met. Like engine temp. No fault codes stored. and a few others.
Always got a kick out of Class 8 drivers that say they do a manual regen before leaving every day. Uhm, no you don't that is impossible. LOL

Honestly I wouldn't screw with it. Forcing manual regens will probably destroy the dpf and sensors much faster.

 

[CarterKraft]

I don't intend to do manual regens I only want to prohibit starting a regen a mile from my driveway, destination etc.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Don't trust the percentages.

Both 6.7s start cleaning at 100%

Honestly I wouldn't screw with it. Forcing manual regens will probably destroy the dpf and sensors much faster.

Yesterday was a perfect example of where a manual regen would have been nice. Left the house at like 90% drove for 45 mins, then 45 mins back, it didn't start regen until half way home.

 

[Snowy]

More and more posts about noise and low fuel pressure codes on DCR pumps popping up lately:

 

[CarterKraft]

More and more posts about noise and low fuel pressure codes on DCR pumps popping up lately:

Not condemning the dcr or anything but that ain't good

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Not condemning the dcr or anything but that ain't good

What about the guy that put it all back to stock and still had the same problem? I think there might be something else going on with at least those trucks.

Hope I don't have a $2k paperweight sitting in my garage. But it might be a good thing that I didn't open the box yet in case I need to send it back. Think I'm going to call S&S in the morning and start asking questions.

Edit: These problems only seem to come up on older 6.7s according to some research I did last night. Nobody with a newer 6.7 is complaining about these problems after swapping in a DCR pump.

 

[CarterKraft]

What about the guy that put it all back to stock and still had the same problem? I think there might be something else going on with at least those trucks.

Hope I don't have a $2k paperweight sitting in my garage. But it might be a good thing that I didn't open the box yet in case I need to send it back. Think I'm going to call S&S in the morning and start asking questions.

Edit: These problems only seem to come up on older 6.7s according to some research I did last night. Nobody with a newer 6.7 is complaining about these problems after swapping in a DCR pump.

I'm sure most of the cases are guys that don't professionally work on 6.7s but if S&S wanted the pump back I'd think they agreed there might be a issue with it.

A failure of the pump doesn't actually bother me, everything fails it's just the failure percentage of the current volume.
Has anyone said how many they have sold?

2 out of 15k units or something would not be a concern, 2 out of 500 hundred might.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Well my father in laws cp4 just shit out.

2017 225k miles and he said he normally changes fuel filters every 3rd oil change, but it's been a long time since he changed this one....

I'm curious to see the whole process of swapping parts and cleaning.

 

[CarterKraft]

Well my father in laws cp4 just shit out.

2017 225k miles and he said he normally changes fuel filters every 3rd oil change, but it's been a long time since he changed this one....

I'm curious to see the whole process of swapping parts and cleaning

I've heard some shops won't clean anything, only replace.
Seems like a great way to guarantee their work at the expense of my pocket book.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I've heard some shops won't clean anything, only replace.
Seems like a great way to guarantee their work at the expense of my pocket book.

He's fairly mechanically inclined, has rebuilt quite a few engines, ect. Plans to do it himself in his shop.

Looks like $3-4k ish for parts?

 

[CarterKraft]

He's fairly mechanically inclined, has rebuilt quite a few engines, ect. Plans to do it himself in his shop.

Looks like $3-4k ish for parts?

If you buy contamination kit it's a lot better deal.

Then I guess you can go back with the DCR if you wanted.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

If you buy contamination kit it's a lot better deal.

Then I guess you can go back with the DCR if you wanted.

I haven't done into it much, but I'm curious why one place is $3300 with a pump and another is $3800 without a pump.

I guess it's probably the same shit as anything, Chinese junk, VS oem.

 

[CarterKraft]

I haven't done into it much, but I'm curious why one place is $3300 with a pump and another is $3800 without a pump.

I guess it's probably the same shit as anything, Chinese junk, VS oem.

That's my guess, fomoco parts vs XX

 

[Tiha]

He's fairly mechanically inclined, has rebuilt quite a few engines, ect. Plans to do it himself in his shop.

Looks like $3-4k ish for parts?

Just sharing my experience and what I learned.

There is OEM and chinese parts out there. Have to read each kit carefully to know what you are getting. Some have decent pumps and injectors but cheap lines and sensors. (which honestly is probably fine)

I bought a Motorcraft certified reman kit. Reman pump, reman injectors. Just like Ford sells. I had a bad pump out of the box. So you just never know.

When I was shopping like last fall? $4k is the minimum to get a decent kit. For little more money I could have bought a NEW bosch pump and I wish I would have.

The job isn't technically difficult but it is time consuming. Only special tools you need is a wrench/socket for the injector lines.

My EGR cooler was gone so the pass side was a breeze. Otherwise you gotta pull the fender wells.

Mine went well, no busted injector bolts, no copper washers stuck in the injector holes.

Experienced friend of mine says 12-13 hours. I don't know I just worked on it a little here and there.

My friend recommended injector/valve cover seals. He says they will leak after I replace injectors and he was right. I didn't change them. But they are not leaking that bad, just wet all the time making me think it was a fuel return line leak.

Forscan is free, You need that to program IAQ numbers, so keep track of what injector goes in where.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Just sharing my experience and what I learned.

There is OEM and chinese parts out there. Have to read each kit carefully to know what you are getting. Some have decent pumps and injectors but cheap lines and sensors. (which honestly is probably fine)

I bought a Motorcraft certified reman kit. Reman pump, reman injectors. Just like Ford sells. I had a bad pump out of the box. So you just never know.

When I was shopping like last fall? $4k is the minimum to get a decent kit. For little more money I could have bought a NEW bosch pump and I wish I would have.

The job isn't technically difficult but it is time consuming. Only special tools you need is a wrench/socket for the injector lines.

My EGR cooler was gone so the pass side was a breeze. Otherwise you gotta pull the fender wells.

Mine went well, no busted injector bolts, no copper washers stuck in the injector holes.

Experienced friend of mine says 12-13 hours. I don't know I just worked on it a little here and there.

My friend recommended injector/valve cover seals. He says they will leak after I replace injectors and he was right. I didn't change them. But they are not leaking that bad, just wet all the time making me think it was a fuel return line leak.

Forscan is free, You need that to program IAQ numbers, so keep track of what injector goes in where.

How long do you think it would take to just replace the CP4? I don't have to swap injectors, lines ect, just the pump itself.

 

[Tiha]

How long do you think it would take to just replace the CP4? I don't have to swap injectors, lines ect, just the pump itself.

3-4 hours. That really is a pretty simple job. You still have to pull the intake off. Upper and lower.

But after that it is all right there. Pull engine fan, I just used an air hammer to knock it loose.
Pull vacuum pump.
Spin engine over to line up timing marks.
Pull gear nut on CP4.
Pull fuel lines, which is 1 bolt.
Pull 3 mounting bolts.
I used air hammer on the end of the pump shaft and gear game right off with little effort.
That is it. Put it all back together.

 

[noirtier1]

The disaster kits only filter low pressure fuel. They don't stop the metal going from the pump directly into the rail and directly into the injector.

The new CPX from RCD has filtration on both sides..... Beware though, I had a CPX failure which I believe is the cause of the motor locking up in the truck. My CPX literally split in half while I was pulling a trailer at 80 down the interstate. Had truck towed in only to hear from the shop that not only was the motor locked up but the as it did, the crank walked and smacked the heads... 🤬

 

[noirtier1]

I haven't done into it much, but I'm curious why one place is $3300 with a pump and another is $3800 without a pump.

I guess it's probably the same shit as anything, Chinese junk, VS oem.

Please see my very detailed post on cp4 failure that led to a replacement and then a CPX failure which led to a locked up motor. Find a better option than I did for your own sanity. If cp4 took a shit, make sure of the following as the cp4 is replaced:
1) replace fuel rails
2) replace all the injectors
3) replace all the lines
4) replace fuel filter
5) flush the fuel tank thoroughly
6) replace the lower return lines going back to tank

in the valve on I believe the cp4 you'll be able to see "glitter" indicates that metal particles may have already made it to the injectors. According to the 3 mechanics that I generally speaking can take what they say to the bank... If you see the glitter just replace all fuel system components because it's already been degrading for a while. I have heard a few people say that if you replace cp4 with a CPX from RCD then you can always let the incoming and return side disaster recovery filtration do it's job and it will remove the metal flecks and thus stop injectors from being damaged. If it was my truck I wouldn't rely strictly on that... It's still too new of a disaster prevention setup to have enough people running them and certainly still too new to have enough people that have allowed the disaster prevention filters to remove the metal flecks from their system with inspected/confirmed success and no damage or new glitter in the "remodeled " fuel system..... Just my opinion.

if anyone out there has done the latter in the above --let us all know how it worked for you, how you confirmed success etc.

I could be wrong on the placement of the valve that shows the glitter. I'm not a mechanic but just went through a clear bend over and grab your replacement of the whole fuel system. Maybe someone who chimes on here can clarify the placement and visual checking of it..... For what it's worth man, I'm sorry. Tell him be ready for 10k

 

[noirtier1]

The video I saw s&s even said "we have seen some metal fragments on the control valve in the pump, we aren't sure why that's happening."

One of the many reasons people are seeing rust in the systems is because of the repetitive water in fuel as you burn through tanks of diesel. I will say this about where you select to get your diesel from.... If you are in areas where flooding and high water table levels are present, get your fuel if possible from somewhere that sits at a higher elevation than the road grade level. This in turn means the in ground tanks are less likely to have ground water present directly around them. Why is that important you ask?? As the in ground tanks age, they become in danger of corrosion (especially around weld points, seams, etc and that leads to them leaking in the ground (sometimes it's minimal so one notices... however, If fuels can leak out --water can get into the supply tanks at the gas station. Another thing I have seen happen is, if the access lids for the fuel supplier tanker are sub parking lot level and the parking lot itself looks like a dumpster fire around the lids, go somewhere else for your fuel. The delivery accesses are supposed to be sealed/protected from debris & water getting in or ignitable vapor getting out. But again this comes down to does the gas station have enough incoming allocated funds for repairs and maintenance cost or are they scraping by because they are maybe in school zone and don't & cant sell beer lol?? Where I live we just had 12 inches of snow hit our area in Jan, which lead to a lot, which in turn led to water in fuel from several named offenders that weren't checking their tanks for water intrusion. There is a water indicator gel that goes on the end of the measurement stick that gas stations use to see how many gallons of fuel are in their tanks for inventory--- think about it---- have you ever seen your favorite station inventory their tanks for water???
I own an outdoor construction Company and when we see them pulling out in ground storage tanks and new ones go in, we see degraded ones come out. Larger fuel chains replace and/or maintenance more because the big corporations are making more money. Unfortunately Mom & pop type of fuel stations don't have the bigger incoming capital levels to replace or sometimes even to maintain or treat against their tanks getting water in them.

 

[JunKU]

I have a 2016 F250 with 10K GVWR.

Bought it with 49K in 2021. So far its at 93K. Only "mods" I do are Amsoil fuel treatment when (I remember) i fuel up. When i haul the jeep to RC, AOAA, and Windrock (only once so far) I carried the bottle in the bed. Noticeable difference between treated and untreated fuel. I also do this because of the CP4 stories...

When I first bought it it was throwing a bunch of emission codes. Unsettling, considering I bought it from a Ford Stealership. Long(and angry) story short is i had them replace the NOX sensor under warranty I then replaced a few EGT sensors in my garage. Luckily I have a decent scan tool so I can monitor live data which is extremely helpful to identify which EGT sensor is failing. Once i got that figured out it has been code free since the first two months of ownership.

As far as Maintenance goes I run Amsoil 5w-40 oil and their EAO98 oil filter. I change at 10K intervals, fuel filters I change with Motorcraft FD-4615. I've been doing it every oil change, along with WIX 49902 engine air filter. I replaced the CCV filter last year when i noticed oil leaks stemming from a few fuel injector oil seals. Once replaced no more oil leaks.

I've been looking at a few "up grades"

SPE Motorsport 2011+ 6.7L Powerstroke Recirculating CCV Kit

SPE 2011+ 6.7L Powerstroke Recirculating CCV Kit SPE Motorsport's advanced Recirculating Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system for the 2011 to current 6.7L Powerstroke. Designed with precision and a understanding of our customers needs. The recirculating CCV kit is a testament to innovation and...

www.spemotorsport.com

I like the idea of the internal baffle and screen to separate the oil from the vapor. Much easier to clean/service. Replacing the factory CCV filter was kind of a bitch. They also list an internal "Catch Can" that fits within the valve cover, which also interests me.

SPE Motorsport 2011-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Disaster Prevention Kit

SPE 2011-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Disaster Prevention Kit & Exofilter The “Disaster Prevention Kit,” it does exactly what it implies; it prevents the disasters of a CP4 pump failure from destroying the rest of a very expensive high-pressure fuel system. While this is a very simple concept up until...

www.spemotorsport.com

I know this is more fuel on the fire, but i like the idea of a serviceable screen type filter coming from the pumps crankcase and the return to the tank line.

Its starting to death wobble on these shitty New England highways, I just bought new Falcon RubiTrek A/Ts hope that helps as the BJs wheel bearings and radius arm bushing look good. I'm planning on running Synergy stuff if the tires don't help. Currently it has smoked OEM BFG ats.

 

[back woods]

I have a 2016 F250 with 10K GVWR.

Bought it with 49K in 2021. So far its at 93K. Only "mods" I do are Amsoil fuel treatment when (I remember) i fuel up. When i haul the jeep to RC, AOAA, and Windrock (only once so far) I carried the bottle in the bed. Noticeable difference between treated and untreated fuel. I also do this because of the CP4 stories...

When I first bought it it was throwing a bunch of emission codes. Unsettling, considering I bought it from a Ford Stealership. Long(and angry) story short is i had them replace the NOX sensor under warranty I then replaced a few EGT sensors in my garage. Luckily I have a decent scan tool so I can monitor live data which is extremely helpful to identify which EGT sensor is failing. Once i got that figured out it has been code free since the first two months of ownership.

As far as Maintenance goes I run Amsoil 5w-40 oil and their EAO98 oil filter. I change at 10K intervals, fuel filters I change with Motorcraft FD-4615. I've been doing it every oil change, along with WIX 49902 engine air filter. I replaced the CCV filter last year when i noticed oil leaks stemming from a few fuel injector oil seals. Once replaced no more oil leaks.

I've been looking at a few "up grades"

SPE Motorsport 2011+ 6.7L Powerstroke Recirculating CCV Kit

SPE 2011+ 6.7L Powerstroke Recirculating CCV Kit SPE Motorsport's advanced Recirculating Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system for the 2011 to current 6.7L Powerstroke. Designed with precision and a understanding of our customers needs. The recirculating CCV kit is a testament to innovation and...

www.spemotorsport.com

I like the idea of the internal baffle and screen to separate the oil from the vapor. Much easier to clean/service. Replacing the factory CCV filter was kind of a bitch. They also list an internal "Catch Can" that fits within the valve cover, which also interests me.

SPE Motorsport 2011-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Disaster Prevention Kit

SPE 2011-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Disaster Prevention Kit & Exofilter The “Disaster Prevention Kit,” it does exactly what it implies; it prevents the disasters of a CP4 pump failure from destroying the rest of a very expensive high-pressure fuel system. While this is a very simple concept up until...

www.spemotorsport.com

I know this is more fuel on the fire, but i like the idea of a serviceable screen type filter coming from the pumps crankcase and the return to the tank line.

Its starting to death wobble on these shitty New England highways, I just bought new Falcon RubiTrek A/Ts hope that helps as the BJs wheel bearings and radius arm bushing look good. I'm planning on

Have been looking at that CCV myself. Looks like a very nice unit. Currently running the CCV into the tailpipe on a 2016. It hazes a lot at idle and is a bit of an oil eater. When towing heavy it will draw a noticeable amount of oil out of the crankcase.

Personally I would only use an S&S disaster kit, they are the industry standard.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Everything I read led me back to the s&s as well.