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6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

fl0w3n said:
:frown:

Yeah... but I'll mainly be cursing myself if something happens. I'm consistent on filter changes, properly prime when I do, and stick to my best chances at decent fuel and don't need to worry about gelling. Except today I used Chevron :emb4:
I still have a warranty till 100k but that's no guarantee they don't find a BS reason to try and deny it.

How do they do nothing

Why is that filter better? With known water content being common in diesel fuel, wouldn't a metal housing be more likely to introduce rust than the factory plastic housing?
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The report I hear is internal fittings of the fuel rail pump have signs of rust, they say because bad fuel.
I have my doubts that the OEM water separator is effective at entrained water (tiny).
The CAT filter will have proven, best in the business, water seperation media. Metal isn't a issue, a handful of rust in that filter should not make it past the secondary filter if it is up to the job, it's so small who knows.

These rusty fittings in the fuel rail are a problem regardless of cp4 shittyness.
 
Tiha said:
The disaster kits only filter low pressure fuel. They don't stop the metal going from the pump directly into the rail and directly into the injector.
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That's not how I understand some of the DPK's work...
 
CarterKraft said:
I guess Arse is re-thinking his position.
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No I stand by it. Just didn't seem relevant.

I don't see a fuel rail rusting from a little bit of water. It's not like the bottom of a tank where it accumulates. Fuel, and any water, should be through and gone before any rust could happen.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Are you positive? That's not how I understood it.
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Look at how it is installed.

Common sense alone says, it is all plastic. Plastic cannot handle 30k psi rail pressure.

There is no way currently to filter fuel between the piston in the cp4 and the injector.

Only return fuel or supply to cp4.

My son kept telling me to put a disaster kit in. I read up on them. at that time it seems like guys were 50/50 on the disaster kit saving them.
It all came down to how it failed, or what failed. In fact I found quite often that guys were getting low fuel pressure codes after installing the kit. So it was creating a problem.
The CP4 internal failure, it will not save you.
 
arse_sidewards said:
No I stand by it. Just didn't seem relevant.

I don't see a fuel rail rusting from a little bit of water. It's not like the bottom of a tank where it accumulates. Fuel, and any water, should be through and gone before any rust could happen.
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I will let you provide your supporting documentation. The various components of the fuel system absolutely show "rust" when exposed to water.
 
CarterKraft said:
I will let you provide your supporting documentation. The various components of the fuel system absolutely show "rust" when exposed to water.
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What I'm saying is that if you run fuel that's a little watery but fine once nothing will rust.

If you run fuel that's watery enough to cause problems quickly nothing will have time to rust.

So the only time shit would rust is from regularly running fuel that's got water in it but not enough water to cause problems immediately.

Therefore if the separator is in fact passing enough water to damage things there's probably a lot of CP4 systems that shit the bed, but didn't have any rust in them at the time they did so.

Like I said, it seemed kinda tangential to the discussion and I deleted it because I didn't want to derail this thread when the usual idiots show up trying to nitpick the minutia of what I said.
 
arse_sidewards said:
What I'm saying is that if you run fuel that's a little watery but fine once nothing will rust.

If you run fuel that's watery enough to cause problems quickly nothing will have time to rust.

So the only time shit would rust is from regularly running fuel that's got water in it but not enough water to cause problems immediately.

Therefore if the separator is in fact passing enough water to damage things there's probably a lot of CP4 systems that shit the bed, but didn't have any rust in them at the time they did so.

Like I said, it seemed kinda tangential to the discussion and I deleted it because I didn't want to derail this thread when the usual idiots show up trying to nitpick the minutia of what I said.
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And why I said if the WS is passing enough water through it to rust said fittings I question its effectiveness.
You don't get any extra points for winning a theoretical discussion...
 
CarterKraft said:
And why I said if the WS is passing enough water through it to rust said fittings I question its effectiveness.
You don't get any extra points for winning a theoretical discussion...
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Your theory would imply that every manufacturer running a CP4 has an inadequate water separator. We both know that its pretty impossible for all of them to have gotten it wrong so that leads us back to the CP4 being a piece of shit.....
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Your theory would imply that every manufacturer running a CP4 has an inadequate water separator. We both know that its pretty impossible for all of them to have gotten it wrong so that leads us back to the CP4 being a piece of shit.....
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yet... if the MFG is claiming water in fuel is the (or related to the) cause... then the MFG is admitting their WFS doesn't work....
 
rockota said:
yet... if the MFG is claiming water in fuel is the (or related to the) cause... then the MFG is admitting their WFS doesn't work....
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My CP4 took a giant shit. Got it towed back to my shop and drained the tank. Zero water in there but plenty of glitter came out. Ford blames "water in fuel" but that wasn't the case at all. I'm sticking with the CP4 being a piece of shit that nobody wants to point fingers at because "relations".
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
My CP4 took a giant shit. Got it towed back to my shop and drained the tank. Zero water in there but plenty of glitter came out. Ford blames "water in fuel" but that wasn't the case at all. I'm sticking with the CP4 being a piece of shit that nobody wants to point fingers at because "relations".
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I'm not defending the CP4... I sold the 6.7 because of that issue...

I'm just saying that if Ford is blaming water in the fuel, they are essentially admitting their water separator doesn't work...
 
I only care about water/rust/etc. because it is used as a scapegoat for warranty denial.

If my CP4 fucks off I am not overly concerned (I know the risks) unless they try to hang me with the repair bill when under the 5 year/100k mile warranty.

If I was out of warranty (5 year/100k) then I think the DCR pump would be much better money spent than a ESP.
 
rockota said:
I'm not defending the CP4... I sold the 6.7 because of that issue...

I'm just saying that if Ford is blaming water in the fuel, they are essentially admitting their water separator doesn't work...
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That's my opinion, if the water separator can't block a dangerous level of water AND not illuminate the water in fuel warning lamp then the fuel system design is in adequate for service in the vehicle the engine is installed in. Handing the customer the bill for a failure of said system is pretty foolish, not saying it's not happening just that it's really shitty on the part of the dealer/manufacturer.
 
I might take my own advice on this.
This is a proven (my experience with CAT) additive for shitty fuel lubricity and should help drop water out of the fuel helping the water separator.
If my math is right I should get 16 doses from it for $2.81 per dose, sounds like anything to help the CP4 would be a benefit, this is cheap enough.


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I used Everyday Diesel on my 6.7... one bottle lasts about 10k miles (for me)...
 
So I've been dd'ing mine for a few weeks since my 4runner is making a weird noise in the front end. I was weary of it since my commute is only 2 1/2 miles :homer: it's mostly up a 6% hill so I thought maybe I'd be OK.

Yesterday it said cleaning exhaust right when I pulled in, but then went away? Today it said it again, so I left it running for about 40 mins while we did our meeting. The idle kicked up a bit when I got out, so I thought it was good. Got back in and it says "exhaust overloaded, drive to clean" after work I drove about 30 miles or so and it still says it.

I figured I'd just do a parked regen as I don't feel like driving around for hours. Apparently my model doesn't have the option to do it or even see the % of the dpf.

So I got the forscan downloaded and hooked up for the first time and it says dpf is 3% full?

I did it anyway, hopefully that clears the overloaded message.... No cel yet?

Edit: Well it finished, dpf is 0% now.

I'm guessing it threw the "overloaded" message, I drove it enough to clean it to 3% but message wouldn't go away until 0%?
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
So I've been dd'ing mine for a few weeks since my 4runner is making a weird noise in the front end. I was weary of it since my commute is only 2 1/2 miles :homer: it's mostly up a 6% hill so I thought maybe I'd be OK.

Yesterday it said cleaning exhaust right when I pulled in, but then went away? Today it said it again, so I left it running for about 40 mins while we did our meeting. The idle kicked up a bit when I got out, so I thought it was good. Got back in and it says "exhaust overloaded, drive to clean" after work I drove about 30 miles or so and it still says it.

I figured I'd just do a parked regen as I don't feel like driving around for hours. Apparently my model doesn't have the option to do it or even see the % of the dpf.

So I got the forscan downloaded and hooked up for the first time and it says dpf is 3% full?

I did it anyway, hopefully that clears the overloaded message.... No cel yet?
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There’s a setting in Forscan to add the DPF soot load to the center screen and command a parked regen if the soot load is over 80% and at operating temp while you’re parked. I can’t remember what it is but it was easy to add for me with some Google foo.

If you don’t have a CEL and soot load shows 3%, you’re good. Unfortunately all modern diesels don’t do well with unloaded short commutes or idle time at all. I’m 10 miles from work and had to keep an eye on things
 
Snowy said:
There’s a setting in Forscan to add the DPF soot load to the center screen and command a parked regen if the soot load is over 80% and at operating temp while you’re parked. I can’t remember what it is but it was easy to add for me with some Google foo.
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Didn't even think about adding it. Mine is poverty package, so very limited "screen"

Snowy said:
If you don’t have a CEL and soot load shows 3%, you’re good. Unfortunately all modern diesels don’t do well with unloaded short commutes or idle time at all. I’m 10 miles from work and had to keep an eye on things
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Yes, I'm totally aware. Just kinda stuck with it as my samurai is torn apart, 4runner is making a bad noise and it been too cold to ride my dirt bike :laughing:

Last time I drove it before this was 36k lbs gross, so it's usually getting a work out.
 
I enabled the disable auto Regen feature so it wouldn't try to Regen pulling into the drive way. I think I did something wrong cause there isn't a manual Regen option but I just don't turn the Auto back on until I know I have 30 minutes or more to drive.

I have read in many places that the on screen DPF % is not actual load, it's just a calculated %, many have said it's easy to double the 100% of the onscreen, that confuses me cause the shit I'm used to working on has very precise DPF load parameters, if a CAT says 100% you better getting it oriented to do a Regen cause at 105% you're going to have to call the CAT tech to do a forced Regen.
 
CarterKraft said:
I enabled the disable auto Regen feature so it wouldn't try to Regen pulling into the drive way. I think I did something wrong cause there isn't a manual Regen option but I just don't turn the Auto back on until I know I have 30 minutes or more to drive.

I have read in many places that the on screen DPF % is not actual load, it's just a calculated %, many have said it's easy to double the 100% of the onscreen, that confuses me cause the shit I'm used to working on has very precise DPF load parameters, if a CAT says 100% you better getting it oriented to do a Regen cause at 105% you're going to have to call the CAT tech to do a forced Regen.
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After some computer fuckery (man the forscan is primitive in a lot of ways) I was able to get the soot load percentage to pop up.

Oddly enough, the screen shows 30%? I did idle it for a few minutes after the forced regen, but I can't imagine that went from 0 to 30%?
 
I need to add the commanded regen option to mine in Forscan. I have the gauge on, but didn’t do the commanded regen.

I get that they need to design these things to the lowest common denominator and most people don’t want to be bothered…

But, for example, I am barely on the threshold of diesel inappropriateness because I mainly commute. I’ll do ~40k miles a year and a 30-80 mile one way to work depending if it’s office or job and load up a trailer probably 10 times a year.
What’s stupid is I’ll get to 100% load and it’ll start a regen when I’m at like mile 65 of my 70 mile commute… which means when I get there it only drops to 80%. Then when I drive to the next spot it’ll do the same thing where it goes from 80-100 and starts a regen right as I’m arriving.

I’ve got caught in that cycle just a few times, which is dumb. Maybe I’ll finally add the forscan command this weekend.
 
So after reading here I found the soot load percentage in my 19 F550 work truck. Today it went from 70% to full and never gave the option to manually regen?

Is that something that needs to be enabled on the 17-19 trucks?


Fwiw, my 16 didn't even have the option to see the soot load and since I enabled it, I haven't reached 80%+
 
So I'm at 85% and have not seen a prompt to allow manual regen. 16 XLT fwiw

Did I miss an option in forscan?

Also, I've been watching my 19 XL at work, and it never gave me an option either?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So I'm at 85% and have not seen a prompt to allow manual regen. 16 XLT fwiw

Did I miss an option in forscan?

Also, I've been watching my 19 XL at work, and it never gave me an option either?
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On my 22 it doesn't say Regen required until 100%

I did a '19 550 at work and you can't prevent the idle regens due to PTO strategy. If yours doesn't have PTO it might be different, the c&c are definitely not the same as pickups though
 
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