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6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

SPE cold pipe installed. I was amazed at all the gunk in the upper intake when I had it off installing the disaster kit so I put a CCV reroute also.
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Holy batshit, that's some buildup. I did mine at 19k was able to wipe it mostly clean with just a rag.
 
It was pretty straight forward took me about 8hrs to complete, but half of that was looking for a metal gasket that disappeared into the abyss, what a fkn bitch that was... Fiddling the upper intake out of it's cubby was the most time consuming an extra set of hands would've help here. Getting the new SPE metering valve adapter in place on top the CP4 was a tight fit. Be carful not to scratch off any of the black anodized finish into the top of CP4 as I did wtf:eek:.. The xofilter is easy only takes a few minutes to install, I've had mine on and off several times because it leaks a bit from the bottom. The filter seams loose on the fuel rail I'm thinking the o-rings are to small cause they're sloppy in the housing. Not finding a bit larger o-rings local that would work I ended up putting a third o-ring over fuel rail and sandwiched it between the xofilter housing and the retainer cap. This stopped my leak for the time being and I've been running it this way. I've a call/email to SPE support about my band-aid fix but haven't heard back.

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It was pretty straight forward took me about 8hrs to complete, but half of that was looking for a metal gasket that disappeared into the abyss, what a fkn bitch that was... Fiddling the upper intake out of it's cubby was the most time consuming an extra set of hands would've help here. Getting the new SPE metering valve adapter in place on top the CP4 was a tight fit. Be carful not to scratch off any of the black anodized finish into the top of CP4 as I did wtf:eek:.. The xofilter is easy only takes a few minutes to install, I've had mine on and off several times because it leaks a bit from the bottom. The filter seams loose on the fuel rail I'm thinking the o-rings are to small cause they're sloppy in the housing. Not finding a bit larger o-rings local that would work I ended up putting a third o-ring over fuel rail and sandwiched it between the xofilter housing and the retainer cap. This stopped my leak for the time being and I've been running it this way. I've a call/email to SPE support about my band-aid fix but haven't heard back.

that's what scares me, I've heard SPE's support has seemingly disappeared in the last 6 months.

I aught to stop being lazy and put an exergy metering valve and a disaster kit on though.
 
that's what scares me, I've heard SPE's support has seemingly disappeared in the last 6 months.

I aught to stop being lazy and put an exergy metering valve and a disaster kit on though.

Wish I would have looked into the disaster kit futher before I installed it. I wasn't aware of the exergy valve so looks like I'll be pulling mine apart again.
 
At 105k mi my track bar ball joint and bushing are pretty worn out and it seems to be the cause of my intermittent fits of death wobble.

I'm going back and forth on replacing the bushing with an OEM rubber one (AC3Z-3A116-A) or going with polyurethane from Energy or Icon. While asking around a couple of people have told me the poly bushing is too soft and won't hold up.
 
After a wait for parts on order from Ford I finally have the track bar bushing and ball joint and need to get them in. My steering stabilizer lasted about 3000 mi and is shot again.

I know worn tires can contribute to death wobble but damn did it get bad after I rotated the two most worn tires (4/32") to the front. Rotated the tires and had DW occur 5 times on sunday :homer: I was planning on buying tires at the end of the summer but it seems like the time is now
 
Between the bad bushing and ball joint the front axle was allowed to move about 2" side to side.. no wonder death wobble was striking so badly. After replacing both so the track bar can do its job the front end is MUCH tighter, steering is better, truck doesn't wander nearly as much, and death wobble is gone. I drove the truck for a bit like this to make sure it didn't act up before putting a new stabilizer on.

The 3k mi steering stabilizer was shot. I'm sure it was the track bars fault. I could have warrantied it but decided to upgrade to a Bilstein one.

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I replaced my factory stabilizer with Carli after I got the death wobbles, starting at 15k. By 20k it was frequent enough to be dangerous and Ford was back ordered. Truck just turned 60k
 
I replaced my factory stabilizer with Carli after I got the death wobbles, starting at 15k. By 20k it was frequent enough to be dangerous and Ford was back ordered. Truck just turned 60k
did you do the full kit with the caster bushings?


This truck is wearing me out. The AC is weak and I need to throw some gauges on it and see if it has been leaking down. Don't think the blend door is stuck, I can switch to heat and back
 
did you do the full kit with the caster bushings?


This truck is wearing me out. The AC is weak and I need to throw some gauges on it and see if it has been leaking down. Don't think the blend door is stuck, I can switch to heat and back

just the stabilizer
 
going off the general lack of 6.7 threads, is this motor from the mid-teens all that much better than the 6.0 or whatever the fabled ford diesel that loves to shit the bed?

back to considering stupid expensive motorhomes, F550 chassis stuff with 6.7 advertised at 300hp claims 10k rated towing, for basically the same price as V10 stuff a couple years newer rated at 5500 or 7500lbs.

I don't know much about diesel stuff, not real interested in the 'tune' stuff, but it seems like basic maint. and they hold up pretty good? not really surprise $5k repairs often?

do they haul ~15-25k lbs better than the V10 6 speed combos?
 
The 6.7 is a beast, when I bought my ‘19 it embarrassed the other two and from what a friend told me recently, it still does (he claims to be a dodge guy). The v10 won’t even be in the same league or discussion
 
The 6.7 is a beast, when I bought my ‘19 it embarrassed the other two and from what a friend told me recently, it still does (he claims to be a dodge guy). The v10 won’t even be in the same league or discussion
alright, i'm hopefully going to look at one tomorrow.

just to look, i swear :rasta:
 
going off the general lack of 6.7 threads, is this motor from the mid-teens all that much better than the 6.0 or whatever the fabled ford diesel that loves to shit the bed?

back to considering stupid expensive motorhomes, F550 chassis stuff with 6.7 advertised at 300hp claims 10k rated towing, for basically the same price as V10 stuff a couple years newer rated at 5500 or 7500lbs.

I don't know much about diesel stuff, not real interested in the 'tune' stuff, but it seems like basic maint. and they hold up pretty good? not really surprise $5k repairs often?

do they haul ~15-25k lbs better than the V10 6 speed combos?

The 6.7 is a beast, when I bought my ‘19 it embarrassed the other two and from what a friend told me recently, it still does (he claims to be a dodge guy). The v10 won’t even be in the same league or discussion

alright, i'm hopefully going to look at one tomorrow.

just to look, i swear :rasta:

The 6.7l is wildly more reliable than the 6.0 and 6.4. The power is impressive, for sure. I never felt like my 6.0L PSD was lacking power but the 6.7l can pull that same weight faster and keep the temps down better as well.


The big issue is that the early trucks (11-13 or so) used ceramic bearings in the turbo and are more prone to turbo failure, especially when tuned to build more boost.

The CP4 fuel pump is a high cost failure point on these trucks and Duramaxes BUT they rarely fail unless you get water/gas/DEF in the fuel. Fill up at high-volume stations and add a decent fuel additive and you should have nothing to worry about


FWIW I'm at 110k mi on my 2016 (2015 build) and no major work has been done. I have had to do some front end parts and shocks recently but at 110k mi on torn up highways with towing/hauling I think it's a reasonable change.
 
The 6.7 is a beast, when I bought my ‘19 it embarrassed the other two and from what a friend told me recently, it still does (he claims to be a dodge guy). The v10 won’t even be in the same league or discussion
have you drove a 2020 yet?

the horse power went up a noticeable amount. but our trucks have a 4.10 gear IIRC

To add to the thread. Looks like im deleting my truck next month. I work off the back bumper, vice hydraulic crimper working platform is all right by the exhaust and it regens every fucking time i use my PTO..which is my compressor and my crane
 
going off the general lack of 6.7 threads, is this motor from the mid-teens all that much better than the 6.0 or whatever the fabled ford diesel that loves to shit the bed?

back to considering stupid expensive motorhomes, F550 chassis stuff with 6.7 advertised at 300hp claims 10k rated towing, for basically the same price as V10 stuff a couple years newer rated at 5500 or 7500lbs.

I don't know much about diesel stuff, not real interested in the 'tune' stuff, but it seems like basic maint. and they hold up pretty good? not really surprise $5k repairs often?

do they haul ~15-25k lbs better than the V10 6 speed combos?

Ford has kept the 6.7 longer than any other diesel engine previously. They use them in F250-F750s. They are super solid imo, despite the people on here saying the are not. I've driven probably every size and they're always impressive. Even in the c&c 300 hp tune and grossing 20-30k lbs. I drive 1 F650 IIRC with the V10, and it seemed fine for what it was being used for. (5 yard dump) But that was flat land stuff. A 6.7 would absolutely embarrass a V10 at altitude in the mountains imo.

To add to that, now that it's been put over 10 years, what's the best year when looking used? The first few years had the crazy turbo with 2 compressor housings on one shaft? Was that only 11-12? I've heard to avoid 13-14, but that was from a Cummins yanker.
 
Ford has kept the 6.7 longer than any other diesel engine previously. They use them in F250-F750s. They are super solid imo, despite the people on here saying the are not. I've driven probably every size and they're always impressive. Even in the c&c 300 hp tune and grossing 20-30k lbs. I drive 1 F650 IIRC with the V10, and it seemed fine for what it was being used for. (5 yard dump) But that was flat land stuff. A 6.7 would absolutely embarrass a V10 at altitude in the mountains imo.

To add to that, now that it's been put over 10 years, what's the best year when looking used? The first few years had the crazy turbo with 2 compressor housings on one shaft? Was that only 11-12? I've heard to avoid 13-14, but that was from a Cummins yanker.
Yeah, the early years had a funky dual inlet turbo.

I'm not sure if Cab and Chassis are the same but 15+ F240/350 got an updated CP4 and better turbo.
 
Yeah, the early years had a funky dual inlet turbo.

I'm not sure if Cab and Chassis are the same but 15+ F240/350 got an updated CP4 and better turbo.

I also read the exhaust brake is much better on the 15+. The 2 different 11s I've towed with were great, but the exhaust brake was not noticeable at all. The 16 I used once, was much better.
 
I also read the exhaust brake is much better on the 15+. The 2 different 11s I've towed with were great, but the exhaust brake was not noticeable at all. The 16 I used once, was much better.
I would consider mine “ok.” Probably the only thing that I’ll give a nod to dodge on.
 
I would consider mine “ok.” Probably the only thing that I’ll give a nod to dodge on.

Ya, the dodge exhaust brake is very aggressive. Some say it's too aggressive... 🤷 I only have a handful of miles in a late model 4500. The biggest thing I noticed with that truck was the trans shifting was terrible. It just wanted to up shift at the worst times, like pulling up a hill at 2400 perfect.... Upshift and bog until it would down shift again :homer:
 
FWIW the Ford exhaust brakes with the VGT, which is why the better 15+ turbo will give better exhaust braking than the 11-14 trucks. I'm not sure if Dodge uses the turbo or has a proper exhaust brake. I haven't driven a Dodge to compare with performance wise. That said the exhaust brake on the 15+ is pretty damn good for my uses.

With manual shift mode and 8K hooked up I have never been worried about controlling my speed even over Vail pass. I towed flat land this weekend and exiting the interstate I am comfortable slowing down without touching the brakes til I get inside of 2nd gear.
 
Exhaust brake is amazing on my 19. Just came down 5+ miles of 7-8% grade and never touched the brakes. Did the Banks Derringer to it as well, 443 hp, 892 torques @ the wheels.

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The 6.7l is wildly more reliable than the 6.0 and 6.4. The power is impressive, for sure. I never felt like my 6.0L PSD was lacking power but the 6.7l can pull that same weight faster and keep the temps down better as well.


The big issue is that the early trucks (11-13 or so) used ceramic bearings in the turbo and are more prone to turbo failure, especially when tuned to build more boost.

The CP4 fuel pump is a high cost failure point on these trucks and Duramaxes BUT they rarely fail unless you get water/gas/DEF in the fuel. Fill up at high-volume stations and add a decent fuel additive and you should have nothing to worry about


FWIW I'm at 110k mi on my 2016 (2015 build) and no major work has been done. I have had to do some front end parts and shocks recently but at 110k mi on torn up highways with towing/hauling I think it's a reasonable change.
I think Bosch pulled the plug on the CP4 and replaced it with the CP4.2 which corrected the main issue of the pump pistons deciding to turn sideways in their bores. Most failures now are from poor filters or contaminated fuel.
 
I think Bosch pulled the plug on the CP4 and replaced it with the CP4.2 which corrected the main issue of the pump pistons deciding to turn sideways in their bores. Most failures now are from poor filters or contaminated fuel.
Yes, the 15+ trucks have the updated CP4 revision which are less failure prone

I don't imagine running the 22,500 mi fuel filter interval is a good idea. I do 5-10k depending on how noisy the pump at lower filter is getting.
 
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