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6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods
- Thread starter zxkevinxz
- Start date
Wulf
Well-known member
Wulf
Well-known member
how was the disaster kit install?
It was pretty straight forward took me about 8hrs to complete, but half of that was looking for a metal gasket that disappeared into the abyss, what a fkn bitch that was... Fiddling the upper intake out of it's cubby was the most time consuming an extra set of hands would've help here. Getting the new SPE metering valve adapter in place on top the CP4 was a tight fit. Be carful not to scratch off any of the black anodized finish into the top of CP4 as I did wtf
.. The xofilter is easy only takes a few minutes to install, I've had mine on and off several times because it leaks a bit from the bottom. The filter seams loose on the fuel rail I'm thinking the o-rings are to small cause they're sloppy in the housing. Not finding a bit larger o-rings local that would work I ended up putting a third o-ring over fuel rail and sandwiched it between the xofilter housing and the retainer cap. This stopped my leak for the time being and I've been running it this way. I've a call/email to SPE support about my band-aid fix but haven't heard back.
.. The xofilter is easy only takes a few minutes to install, I've had mine on and off several times because it leaks a bit from the bottom. The filter seams loose on the fuel rail I'm thinking the o-rings are to small cause they're sloppy in the housing. Not finding a bit larger o-rings local that would work I ended up putting a third o-ring over fuel rail and sandwiched it between the xofilter housing and the retainer cap. This stopped my leak for the time being and I've been running it this way. I've a call/email to SPE support about my band-aid fix but haven't heard back.Wulf
Well-known member
It was pretty straight forward took me about 8hrs to complete, but half of that was looking for a metal gasket that disappeared into the abyss, what a fkn bitch that was... Fiddling the upper intake out of it's cubby was the most time consuming an extra set of hands would've help here. Getting the new SPE metering valve adapter in place on top the CP4 was a tight fit. Be carful not to scratch off any of the black anodized finish into the top of CP4 as I did wtf
that's what scares me, I've heard SPE's support has seemingly disappeared in the last 6 months.
I aught to stop being lazy and put an exergy metering valve and a disaster kit on though.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
That's what happens when you make an engine suck it's own farts.
Wish I would have looked into the disaster kit futher before I installed it. I wasn't aware of the exergy valve so looks like I'll be pulling mine apart again.
Wulf
Well-known member
At 105k mi my track bar ball joint and bushing are pretty worn out and it seems to be the cause of my intermittent fits of death wobble.
I'm going back and forth on replacing the bushing with an OEM rubber one (AC3Z-3A116-A) or going with polyurethane from Energy or Icon. While asking around a couple of people have told me the poly bushing is too soft and won't hold up.
I'm going back and forth on replacing the bushing with an OEM rubber one (AC3Z-3A116-A) or going with polyurethane from Energy or Icon. While asking around a couple of people have told me the poly bushing is too soft and won't hold up.
Wulf
Well-known member
After a wait for parts on order from Ford I finally have the track bar bushing and ball joint and need to get them in. My steering stabilizer lasted about 3000 mi and is shot again.
I know worn tires can contribute to death wobble but damn did it get bad after I rotated the two most worn tires (4/32") to the front. Rotated the tires and had DW occur 5 times on sunday
I was planning on buying tires at the end of the summer but it seems like the time is now
I know worn tires can contribute to death wobble but damn did it get bad after I rotated the two most worn tires (4/32") to the front. Rotated the tires and had DW occur 5 times on sunday
I was planning on buying tires at the end of the summer but it seems like the time is nowWulf
Well-known member
Between the bad bushing and ball joint the front axle was allowed to move about 2" side to side.. no wonder death wobble was striking so badly. After replacing both so the track bar can do its job the front end is MUCH tighter, steering is better, truck doesn't wander nearly as much, and death wobble is gone. I drove the truck for a bit like this to make sure it didn't act up before putting a new stabilizer on.
The 3k mi steering stabilizer was shot. I'm sure it was the track bars fault. I could have warrantied it but decided to upgrade to a Bilstein one.
The 3k mi steering stabilizer was shot. I'm sure it was the track bars fault. I could have warrantied it but decided to upgrade to a Bilstein one.
Wulf
Well-known member
did you do the full kit with the caster bushings?
This truck is wearing me out. The AC is weak and I need to throw some gauges on it and see if it has been leaking down. Don't think the blend door is stuck, I can switch to heat and back
Wilson
Newb
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2020
- Member Number
- 3068
- Messages
- 678
just the stabilizer
Provience
Kill!
going off the general lack of 6.7 threads, is this motor from the mid-teens all that much better than the 6.0 or whatever the fabled ford diesel that loves to shit the bed?
back to considering stupid expensive motorhomes, F550 chassis stuff with 6.7 advertised at 300hp claims 10k rated towing, for basically the same price as V10 stuff a couple years newer rated at 5500 or 7500lbs.
I don't know much about diesel stuff, not real interested in the 'tune' stuff, but it seems like basic maint. and they hold up pretty good? not really surprise $5k repairs often?
do they haul ~15-25k lbs better than the V10 6 speed combos?
back to considering stupid expensive motorhomes, F550 chassis stuff with 6.7 advertised at 300hp claims 10k rated towing, for basically the same price as V10 stuff a couple years newer rated at 5500 or 7500lbs.
I don't know much about diesel stuff, not real interested in the 'tune' stuff, but it seems like basic maint. and they hold up pretty good? not really surprise $5k repairs often?
do they haul ~15-25k lbs better than the V10 6 speed combos?
Provience
Kill!
Wulf
Well-known member
alright, i'm hopefully going to look at one tomorrow.
just to look, i swear
The 6.7l is wildly more reliable than the 6.0 and 6.4. The power is impressive, for sure. I never felt like my 6.0L PSD was lacking power but the 6.7l can pull that same weight faster and keep the temps down better as well.
The big issue is that the early trucks (11-13 or so) used ceramic bearings in the turbo and are more prone to turbo failure, especially when tuned to build more boost.
The CP4 fuel pump is a high cost failure point on these trucks and Duramaxes BUT they rarely fail unless you get water/gas/DEF in the fuel. Fill up at high-volume stations and add a decent fuel additive and you should have nothing to worry about
FWIW I'm at 110k mi on my 2016 (2015 build) and no major work has been done. I have had to do some front end parts and shocks recently but at 110k mi on torn up highways with towing/hauling I think it's a reasonable change.
A_G
Semi-Controlled rage
have you drove a 2020 yet?
the horse power went up a noticeable amount. but our trucks have a 4.10 gear IIRC
To add to the thread. Looks like im deleting my truck next month. I work off the back bumper, vice hydraulic crimper working platform is all right by the exhaust and it regens every fucking time i use my PTO..which is my compressor and my crane
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Ford has kept the 6.7 longer than any other diesel engine previously. They use them in F250-F750s. They are super solid imo, despite the people on here saying the are not. I've driven probably every size and they're always impressive. Even in the c&c 300 hp tune and grossing 20-30k lbs. I drive 1 F650 IIRC with the V10, and it seemed fine for what it was being used for. (5 yard dump) But that was flat land stuff. A 6.7 would absolutely embarrass a V10 at altitude in the mountains imo.
To add to that, now that it's been put over 10 years, what's the best year when looking used? The first few years had the crazy turbo with 2 compressor housings on one shaft? Was that only 11-12? I've heard to avoid 13-14, but that was from a Cummins yanker.
Wulf
Well-known member
Yeah, the early years had a funky dual inlet turbo.
I'm not sure if Cab and Chassis are the same but 15+ F240/350 got an updated CP4 and better turbo.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I also read the exhaust brake is much better on the 15+. The 2 different 11s I've towed with were great, but the exhaust brake was not noticeable at all. The 16 I used once, was much better.
Wilson
Newb
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2020
- Member Number
- 3068
- Messages
- 678
I would consider mine “ok.” Probably the only thing that I’ll give a nod to dodge on.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Ya, the dodge exhaust brake is very aggressive. Some say it's too aggressive... 🤷 I only have a handful of miles in a late model 4500. The biggest thing I noticed with that truck was the trans shifting was terrible. It just wanted to up shift at the worst times, like pulling up a hill at 2400 perfect.... Upshift and bog until it would down shift again
Wulf
Well-known member
FWIW the Ford exhaust brakes with the VGT, which is why the better 15+ turbo will give better exhaust braking than the 11-14 trucks. I'm not sure if Dodge uses the turbo or has a proper exhaust brake. I haven't driven a Dodge to compare with performance wise. That said the exhaust brake on the 15+ is pretty damn good for my uses.
With manual shift mode and 8K hooked up I have never been worried about controlling my speed even over Vail pass. I towed flat land this weekend and exiting the interstate I am comfortable slowing down without touching the brakes til I get inside of 2nd gear.
With manual shift mode and 8K hooked up I have never been worried about controlling my speed even over Vail pass. I towed flat land this weekend and exiting the interstate I am comfortable slowing down without touching the brakes til I get inside of 2nd gear.
ironman_gq
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 191
- Messages
- 111
I think Bosch pulled the plug on the CP4 and replaced it with the CP4.2 which corrected the main issue of the pump pistons deciding to turn sideways in their bores. Most failures now are from poor filters or contaminated fuel.
Wulf
Well-known member
Yes, the 15+ trucks have the updated CP4 revision which are less failure prone
I don't imagine running the 22,500 mi fuel filter interval is a good idea. I do 5-10k depending on how noisy the pump at lower filter is getting.