So my tube couplers I ordered from Barnes showed up Monday evening, but the box looked like it had been tampered with, so I cut it open and there were only 2 of the 6 tube couplers in it. I emailed Barnes that night and called them yesterday and they told me to take pictures of what was in the box and of the box, so I did that and emailed those to them. I received an email back shortly after saying they would get right on replacing the missing couplers, so kudos to Barnes. It seems FEDEX may be having some thievery taking place as my wife said she saw on TIKTOK where boxes are being opened things removed and then resealed and the shipping tags covered or partially covered and then sent on their way and this is exactly what was done to the box I got. Again mega KUDOs to Barnes.
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That certainly sucks. Good on Barns for stepping up. I hope all these thieving bastards get cancer. The companies end up loosing money because they want happy customers and have to make it right.
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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And try to take pictures of the box before you open them. This way there is no question of what it looked like on receipt.
Got about 45 minutes of test driving in yesterday and the tranny shifted and the ORD magnum 205 box did not pop out of gear, but I didn't drive it on the freeway yet, but still had it up to 45mph a few times. But it not popping out of gear and shifting was a huge win for me.
Now I can tinker on smaller things depending on the weather and available time.
Now I can tinker on smaller things depending on the weather and available time.
Oh yea, the replacement BARNES tube couplers came, so again mega thumbs up to Barnes.
Also, I jacked up the front of the truck to see what the driveshaft does and I raised it to where the shocks(16.5' coilovers) extended 6.5" and the driveshaft extended 3/8" so looking at around 3/4" or so of movement on my driveshaft from ride height to full droop and that would leave about 1.75" of engagement at full droop. Still doesn't leave me feeling warm and fuzzy inside, so I will extend it myself at some point. But in the meantime, I will modify my two-piece shaft to work and use that or bite the bullet and buy a better carrier bearing and build a better set-up, so that I feel better about it.
Also, I jacked up the front of the truck to see what the driveshaft does and I raised it to where the shocks(16.5' coilovers) extended 6.5" and the driveshaft extended 3/8" so looking at around 3/4" or so of movement on my driveshaft from ride height to full droop and that would leave about 1.75" of engagement at full droop. Still doesn't leave me feeling warm and fuzzy inside, so I will extend it myself at some point. But in the meantime, I will modify my two-piece shaft to work and use that or bite the bullet and buy a better carrier bearing and build a better set-up, so that I feel better about it.
Drove it to work yesterday and today and no popping out of gear, but the tranny is now hunting when I get to above 60mph on the freeway. Not sure why. The speedometer on the new 7" Holley Digital Dash reads like 900mph when I'm actually around 65mph and I have no idea why it's doing that and if it's the cause. Last night I tried to see if there was some formula I needed to adjust, but to no avail yet. I'll keep digging and maybe I need to reset the TPS again, although I did that and maybe I need to hook the laptop up and dig around. I did figure out out to add, delete and customize(to some extent) the Digital Dash, so I just need more time to fine tune and see if have everything I want to see on the screen. I am happy to be driving it and that's very good thing!!
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
900mph
Easy there Tiger
Easy there TigerDid a TPS reset to see if that would fix the hunting tranny issue, but it didn't so on to the next step, which means hooking up the laptop and see if I can find something. MPH still reads crazy numbers.
Found a coolant leak and I'm not sure why it's showing itself now, but it did, so I tightened down the clamp where I think it's leaking from and checked other clamps. I drove it to work this morning and will check it when I leave.
Found a coolant leak and I'm not sure why it's showing itself now, but it did, so I tightened down the clamp where I think it's leaking from and checked other clamps. I drove it to work this morning and will check it when I leave.
shortbus4x4
Junk collector
The hunting and mph off might be caused by the same sensor. Output speed sensor?
I'm using the Offroad Design speed sensor machined for the NP205 output and it was working fine until I put the Offroad Design Magnum NP205 doubler on -which shouldn't have an impact-and the Holley 7" Digital Screen. I do believe I remember seeing a pulse per setting somewhere, but I'm not sure what the pulses are to be. I've been lazy to look it up. For the time being I took the MPH off the screen, but I'll put it back on once I find that number, which is going to be shortly.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Have you seen this?
www.havocspeed.com
HolleyEFI – What’s the deal with inputs and outputs? - Havoc Speed
This guide is an attempt to make sense of Holley EFI’s systems input/output functionality in their HP and Dominator ecu’s. If anything was missed, feel free to let us know, leave in a comment below, call or email us. If you have a question that wasn’t answered here, we’re happy to…
www.havocspeed.com
Rained and snowed the last two days and this morning I go to jump in and drive to work and the driver's door is frozen shut!! I'm fairly sure I'm going to have to add back in the roof gutter. And I might as well make it stout, so I got some head scratchin' to do.
I had to go pull my youngest brother out of a snow drift on Saturday, so it was a good test for the ORD Magnum box to see if my change to it vs the NWF ECO Blackbox was smart and I'm happy to say that I had no issues. So it looks like it was a smart switch to do. It was basically the same amount of driving that happened when the NWF ECO Blackbox first popped out of gear.
Hopefully it continues to work out.
It doesn't like to start when it's cold. No chance at -20* and yesterday I had to hook up my 2nd battery to get it to fire off and it was 4* out, so it looks like I need to add some sort of engine heater. Probably go cheap and do the one that goes in the lower radiator hose, but we shall see. Or I may have to buck up and do another month of Terminator x max schooling to look at fueling when cold, but I thought it was set up correctly. If I do that then I can look(refresh my memory) on a couple of other things too.
WaterH
Well-known member
Have you considered a remote start? When I lived in Canada I had one that would start by itself when the temp of the block got so cold. It would run for 15 minutes and then shut off. The block would stay warm for quite awhile in normal cold weather. It probably ran every 2 hours if it was -40. All my neighbors had to plug in their vehicles. Mine was always ready to go. Sometimes if it had just run , it would even be warm inside the cab. I will say this only makes sense if it’s a DD. Otherwise, it would be too much fuel. Of course, you have to park it outside.
Damn driver's side wiper stopped wiping, so I do some investigative work and find the cables have come off one set of the rollers that are on the driver's side up under the dash. I put the cables back on, but to do this I learned(probably cuz the cables are just loose enough, maybe too loose) that to put the top cable on its rollers you first need to turn the wipers on and then turn them off when the passenger side wiper gets to the far right of the windshield, as it creates enough slack to be able to slip it on with a pair of long curved end needle nose pliers. And for the driver's side cable you need to turn the wipers on and off when the wipers get to the center of the windshield, as this creates slack on the driver's side wiper cable. You should hold onto the cables to keep tension on them or the passenger side cable could fall off and back to square one you go. The cables fell off because the driver's side wiper contacts the top of the windshield glass gasket for some reason and it got stuck there and whammo no more worky cuz the cables jumped off the rollers. I'm not sure why the passenger side still worked, but it must be how the cable is routed(I need to look into this). I cut the wiper arm shorter and crimped the metal around the rubber and it works now, but I need to figure out how to adjust the cables, but with snow blowing in the cab while I'm trying to do this I called it quits. The upper left hand corner of the pic shows the rollers and cables.
I just found this diagram, so it looks like maybe part 21 can slide left or right if you loosen its bolt, but I need to look into it further. Also this also explains why the passenger side works as each wiper has it's own cable and pulley system.
I just found this diagram, so it looks like maybe part 21 can slide left or right if you loosen its bolt, but I need to look into it further. Also this also explains why the passenger side works as each wiper has it's own cable and pulley system.
I got the speedometer to work on the Holley 7" Dash. Once I was able to get into the system with the 3.5" screen I went to the tranny setup and found that the speedometer was disabled, so I enabled it and that was that. Now we shall see if it stays in the system. I still have to see if the hunting problem from 3rd to overdrive is fixed or not, but I need to test drive it on the highway or freeway to see. Maybe that will happen tomorrow if i drive it to work.
The engine block heater arrived, so that will need to get installed, but I'm not sure when I'll do that. I may wait until it warms up a bit more and that could be in a couple of months. I still have a myriad of things I want to do, but I also want the weather to be better before I attack those things.
The engine block heater arrived, so that will need to get installed, but I'm not sure when I'll do that. I may wait until it warms up a bit more and that could be in a couple of months. I still have a myriad of things I want to do, but I also want the weather to be better before I attack those things.
Concerning the 3.5" monitor you get with the Holley systems, I wouldn't count on it to remain working as a dash and even now it's a wrestling match for me to access things to adjust on it. It worked great for a few months and was nice to use to set up stuff, but for the last 6 months or so it's been a pain. Buy the 7" or 12" digital dash or figure out how to hook up other gauges(I have Intellix digital gauges also) and tune with a laptop or get it tuned by someone else and unplug the 3.5" monitor and use it only when you want to look at something(if it will let you) or change a setting(if it will let you).
I've noticed that when in 4whl drive and shifting from D to N to R or the opposite, that the motor almost dies. The 3.5" monitor finally allowed me to get into the tuning section and I got the idle adjusted, so we shall see if that makes a diff. I still haven't driven it, as I've been fighting something flui-sh like for a week and I just have not been feeling up to doing much after I get home from work.
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Drove it yesterday afternoon and the tranny is still hunting, although it didn't seem as bad, but I only drove on the freeway a little over a mile 2 different times. So I still need to do some figgerin' out to do. I did notice that I have a leak or leaks, so I finally crawled under it and see that I have to tighten down some clamps or redo some of my fill/breather/catchcan plumbing at the t-case, so depending on weather and how much time I have I may attack that this weekend.
You know you shouldn't be playing with batteries in the dark. I'm an idiot. You would think I would've double triple checked the connections of my 2nd battery, but no I didn't and lo and behold I fried my 75amp fuse that powers the ignition/painless fuse block circuits. It took me a while to find the damn fuse because it's a bit hidden and well you know after 3 yrs you kind of forget all the wiring intricacies you pulled!! Anyway, I decided yesterday that it was time to get the 2nd battery isolator wired in because before I just made a cable set up with the welding quick disconnects to plug into the feed I had made for the rear winch. I didn't plug it in until the other day when I thought, let's see if it's getting charged(hadn't wired in the isolator) and that's when the 75 amp fuse blew, and I unplugged it forthwith and it has remained unplugged since today. So I get the 2nd battery isolator side all wired in(except for the power feed that has to go back into the cab and feed the required circuits) and bam the 225 amp breaker between the isolator and 2nd battery trips. Now I'm like what the hell is going on!! First off when it blew the 75 amp fuse I'm thinking, ok why have I been able to plug into the winch power cable and jump-start the truck before I added the 2nd battery with no issues, and so now why did it blow the 75 amp fuse? I couldn't figure out why and left it to I'll figure it out when I wire in the isolator, but it still bugged me, because nothing made sense. So after the 225 amp breaker trips and I unplug the quick disconnect I'm just staring at the battery wondering what the hell is going on!! And then I noticed on my negative battery post clamp there's a + sign stamped into it and I think that's weird why is there a + sign on the negative post? Then I look a the positive battery post clamp and there's a - sign stamped into the clamp. Geesh I think, how the hell didn't I see that before, well it was dark & getting colder and I definitely wasn't paying attention!! But yet still I'm like ok, so the clamps are off, but they're wired to ground and positive correctly(oh no they weren't in reality), so maybe the battery posts are just different on these batteries. Then I take another look and shit right there I had negative wires going to the positive post and the positive wires wired to the negative post. I was like you have to be kidding me. But since I didn't plug the battery cables into anything that night there were no sparks or indicators that I had the cables swapped. Anyway, a stupid move on my part and it just goes to show that you can't double check yourself enough even though you've been working on cars forever!! So in the end I had to rotate the 2nd battery so the cables would connect correctly and luckily I had enough slack to make that work without having to make new ground cables and plugged it in and it charges through the isolator and no fuses blown or breakers tripped. So again I need to get a cable to run back inside the cab to power whatever I can outside the ignition circuits, but to do that I need some more 1/0 cable which I'll order today and I did buy an 80 amp breaker to replace the 75 amp fuse cuz that fuse is a pain to pull out due to its location and well breakers are easy to reset vs digging around for a fuse and you don't need to carry around fuses.
The other thing I did yesterday was replace my header gaskets because I noticed the drivers side was leaking. So out with the old and in with the new. We shall see how these perform. They’re thicker and compress so as for now they seem to seal better than the Felpro ones. This isn’t to down talk Felpro cuz it could be the header flanges aren’t the flattest.
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I shortened my 2 pc driveshaft, but I don't like it for two reasons. One it uses the stock f250 carrier bearing and it's under some stress due to where I have to mount it and #2 the u-joint is real close to the main plug of the 4L80e, so if the u-joint or either the carrier bearing let loose the plug will be disintegrated!! So now I'm going to have to get a short piece of 1 1/2" DOM to insert into my one-piece driveshaft and lengthen it 2" or so or I budk up and buy a $400 -$500 carrier bearing kit and re-do the 2 piece drive shaft. Right now the one piece is leading in my mind on how to get a front driveshaft that I'm content with.
I installed the block heater. It took a 17mm allen to get the plug out and then I lubbed up the block heater with a little extra teflon paste and put it in. I just loosened the plug and drained the water out with a funnel and bucket vs undoing the lower radiator hose.
Now the next move was to drill and tap the water pump for the steam port line fitting. I'm just not super happy with the temp it runs at which is 205-208* with the current steam port line running to the upper radiator hose, so I am going to see what happens with it running right into the water pump. Of course I either don't own a 1/8 pipe tap or I've put it somewhere where I can find it and now I can't find it, so I ordered one and it will be here today. Hopefully, I can get that conquered later today.
Now my fan belt has slowly been getting whittled down becoming narrower and narrower and now it's becoming a concern, well it's been a concern, but it wasn't an immediate issue, but now I needed to figure out what was causing it once and for all. I've been looking off and on, but never saw an issue, but yesterday when seeing if I could use a long drill bit to drill the hole into the water pump for the steam line fitting I finally saw what the problem was. The belt rubs on one of the bolts that holds the Goat Built alternator/power steering pump bracket on, so now I need to take that bolt out and see if I can countersink an allen head bolt in its place. I'm sure I'll be swearing to get this accomplished.
I installed the block heater. It took a 17mm allen to get the plug out and then I lubbed up the block heater with a little extra teflon paste and put it in. I just loosened the plug and drained the water out with a funnel and bucket vs undoing the lower radiator hose.
Now the next move was to drill and tap the water pump for the steam port line fitting. I'm just not super happy with the temp it runs at which is 205-208* with the current steam port line running to the upper radiator hose, so I am going to see what happens with it running right into the water pump. Of course I either don't own a 1/8 pipe tap or I've put it somewhere where I can find it and now I can't find it, so I ordered one and it will be here today. Hopefully, I can get that conquered later today.
Now my fan belt has slowly been getting whittled down becoming narrower and narrower and now it's becoming a concern, well it's been a concern, but it wasn't an immediate issue, but now I needed to figure out what was causing it once and for all. I've been looking off and on, but never saw an issue, but yesterday when seeing if I could use a long drill bit to drill the hole into the water pump for the steam line fitting I finally saw what the problem was. The belt rubs on one of the bolts that holds the Goat Built alternator/power steering pump bracket on, so now I need to take that bolt out and see if I can countersink an allen head bolt in its place. I'm sure I'll be swearing to get this accomplished.
WaterH
Well-known member
No chance of smoothing the bolt head out a little? On my motor there’s a bolt that just barely touches the belt, but it’s kind of rounded off there and doesn’t seem to wreck the belt.
Maybe, but since the belt has been whittled down at least 2-3 grooves I'm not sure if just grinding down the bolt will work, but to be honest I need to look at it more. It started raining on me yesterday so I had to stop and right now when I was about to pop the hood it started raining again. I'll take a pic of it when I can get out there to work on it. What gets me is I'm pretty sure I checked to make sure the belt wasn't hitting anything, but it must move enough to catch the edge of that bolt head when the motor is running or when the supercharger starts kicking in when the skinny pedal is seeing some love!!