5.13 gears for sterling 10.5???

[pennsylvaniaboy]

I smoothed the bottom of mine, that's about it.

So it has a like 1" lip on the bottom, seems like cutting that off and plating it would be a win?

 

[holdmypocket]

the pinion on the 11+ 10.50 is different then the older trucks and thats why you cant get 5.13-5.38 gears. as shown above its very easy and common you take the locker out and run in an older housing. know i guy running one in his Toy based buggy with 39-46 tall tires and zero issues with the locker in the last year, and he runs it hard

I came across this today:

Nitro Gear & Axle Premium Differential Gear, Axles and Traction Devices

Premium Differential Gear, Axles and Traction Devices

nitro-gear.com

They also have 5.38’s..

From the “Description” section on that page:

“Ford 10.5" 5.13 Nitro Ring & Pinion

Tech Note:

99 & Newer models can use 10.25" ring & pinion as a replacement. When replacing a 10.5" gear set with a 10.25" you must utilize the 10.25 inner pinion bearing, recommend MKF10.25. May require new yoke.”

Hope this is true. Was going to run 4.88’s but wanted 5.13’s.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So that info is correct. The challenge is 2011+ housings have a bigger pinion than the older 10.5 or even 10.25

 

[Snowracer]

So that info is correct. The challenge is 2011+ housings have a bigger pinion than the older 10.5 or even 10.25

yes the pinion and housing changed in 2011+. carrier is the same from 1984-current so can swap the elocker in. when doing aftermarket gears in a 10.50 (99-2010) housing you use 10.25 bearing set

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

^^^still doesn’t solve my problem 🤣

 

[Snowracer]

^^^still doesn’t solve my problem 🤣

if you already have the 11+ diff and want to use the elocker and want 5.13/5.38 gears then you need to take the locker out and install in a 1984-2010 housing. problem solved

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

if you already have the 11+ diff and want to use the elocker and want 5.13/5.38 gears then you need to take the locker out and install in a 1984-2010 housing. problem solved

I know. For $400-500 I can get another housing and spend a few hours stripping it. It would give me spare shafts, hubs, spindles etc.

Then just drill a hole for my locker wires. That might be the smartest route

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Sooo if I were to go 05-10 housing...That opens up 5.13 and 5.38. When paired with a Dana 60(05+) what is a good pick between the 2? id assume 5.13 is stronger but pure physics

 

[JR4X]

Sooo if I were to go 05-10 housing...That opens up 5.13 and 5.38. When paired with a Dana 60(05+) what is a good pick between the 2? id assume 5.13 is stronger but pure physics

I don’t think there’s a measurable difference in strength between the two. Seems like the pinion is pretty much the same size either way

 

[gozuki]

I chose 5.38s because I wanted Spicer gears in my HP 60 and I got them inexpensively.

 

[415yota]

Platinum Torque
Motive
National has both Motive and Platinum Torque 37 spline pinion 5.13 and 5.38 gears

Literally just made an account to thank you for this post. Picked up a set of 2011 superduty axles to put under my 2000 4runner last weekend not realizing about the gearing situation. You just saved me countless hours/moneys. Sorry for reviving an old thread.

 

[u2slow]

Sooo if I were to go 05-10 housing...

Do note that is a wider housing than 99-04 and a lot wider than 84-97. I reckon you also need 17" wheels minimum for the 05-10 brakes.

 

[Valley Rock]

In around 2010 or so they did away with the vss (speed reader) on the top of the housing, so there is no longer a hole in the top of the housing .

I think that in the auto parts books and the auto wrecker books it shows that it is a different housing because there is no longer a hole in there for the vss .

And they are right, it is obviously different, but I don't believe it has anything to do with the gears that go inside of it .

I believe that this knowledge graduates down to where everyone tells you that it's different but they don't tell you why .

I've thrown together quite a few Sterlings with all kinds of different parts from different years and I've always been able to make them work with little effort, one carrier fits all gears just like the 8.8, I think it's a great rear end .

I would not at all be afraid to buy the gears and see if they'll fit, I bet that they will, but if they don't for some reason, at least then you'll know and you can see why, and would no longer have to speculate or search for missinformation from the intardnet .

Btw, a quarter fits perfectly in the vss hole in the top to plug it for off road applications .

 

['84 Bronco II]

Literally just made an account to thank you for this post. Picked up a set of 2011 superduty axles to put under my 2000 4runner last weekend not realizing about the gearing situation. You just saved me countless hours/moneys. Sorry for reviving an old thread.

I don't think those gears actually exist, but if you're able to order a set, post up when you get them.

In around 2010 or so they did away with the vss (speed reader) on the top of the housing, so there is no longer a hole in the top of the housing .

I think that in the auto parts books and the auto wrecker books it shows that it is a different housing because there is no longer a hole in there for the vss .

And they are right, it is obviously different, but I don't believe it has anything to do with the gears that go inside of it .

I believe that this knowledge graduates down to where everyone tells you that it's different but they don't tell you why .

I've thrown together quite a few Sterlings with all kinds of different parts from different years and I've always been able to make them work with little effort, one carrier fits all gears just like the 8.8, I think it's a great rear end .

I would not at all be afraid to buy the gears and see if they'll fit, I bet that they will, but if they don't for some reason, at least then you'll know and you can see why, and would no longer have to speculate or search for missinformation from the intardnet .

Btw, a quarter fits perfectly in the vss hole in the top to plug it for off road applications .

This is 100% false. The pinion is much bigger on the '11+ Sterlings and the gear sets are not interchangeable with the '10 and earlier Sterlings. If you wanted to machine custom bushings and spacers, you could probably make it work, but at that point, it would be cheaper and easier to just get an earlier housing. See this thread for more info: Sterling 10.5 Questions

 

[Valley Rock]

Yeah, and somehow I've always been able to find a way to make things work, best of luck to ya .

 

['84 Bronco II]

Yeah, and somehow I've always been able to find a way to make things work, best of luck to ya .

Well find a way to make it work then and post up how you did it

Even if you have a lathe and the material already sitting around, what's your time worth? Sterlings are $150-200 all day long around here.

 

[Valley Rock]

Well find a way to make it work then and post up how you did it

Even if you have a lathe and the material already sitting around, what's your time worth? Sterlings are $150-200 all day long around here.

Well then I guess you got it all figured out, and you certainly don't need me to spoon feed you .

If you had a micrometer and a pile of Parts you could do the same instead of this .

 

[415yota]

I don't think those gears actually exist, but if you're able to order a set, post up when you get them.



This is 100% false. The pinion is much bigger on the '11+ Sterlings and the gear sets are not interchangeable with the '10 and earlier Sterlings. If you wanted to machine custom bushings and spacers, you could probably make it work, but at that point, it would be cheaper and easier to just get an earlier housing. See this thread for more info: Sterling 10.5 Questions

I’m going to make a call to them tomorrow, I’ll let you guys know my findings. I found another website that may have them as well (pre order for December).

 

['84 Bronco II]

Well then I guess you got it all figured out, and you certainly don't need me to spoon feed you .

If you had a micrometer and a pile of Parts you could do the same instead of this .

So are you disagreeing with the fact that you will need custom parts to put a 31 spline gear set in a 37 spline housing? I literally gave you a link to a post with pictures and all the measurements of the differences between the 31 spline castings and 37 spline castings.

 

[Valley Rock]

So are you disagreeing with the fact that you will need custom parts to put a 31 spline gear set in a 37 spline housing? I literally gave you a link to a post with pictures and all the measurements of the differences between the 31 spline castings and 37 spline castings.

I didn't bother reading your link, I don't need a link .

It isn't custom parts, it's just different parts, a quick feasibility study will tell you that none of that is worth it (imo)

I can grab an old Dana 70U that has killer clearance and a nice smooth bottom and shove any gears in it I want and not bother with trying to make something work that's uncooperative .

 

['84 Bronco II]

I didn't bother reading your link, I don't need a link .

It isn't custom parts, it's just different parts, a quick feasibility study will tell you that none of that is worth it (imo)

Okay, so you're just talking out your ass and arguing to argue

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Can anyone comment on the speed of the Ford elocker? If he's using it to allow turning, it will be turned off and on a lot. If it is like most elockers and won't engage or disengage with a slight bind, it won't be much use to him. The arb is basically instant in and out.

I think the weak comments on e-lockers including factory units is that they have limited electromagnetic force to engage and equally weak spring force to disengage while loaded or bound. Weak engagement, not weak once engaged.
I believe Yukon made or makes a reverse/ comp air locker which uses air power to disengage the locker which is opposite from most which is air to engage.
Spring release is going to be the weaker of the directions.
With a spinning tire it should be easy to engage. Once bound and trying to disengage is when the spring release or air to release is going to be held up until the bind is low enough that the teeth can slip out.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I think the weak comments on e-lockers including factory units is that they have limited electromagnetic force to engage and equally weak spring force to disengage while loaded or bound. Weak engagement, not weak once engaged.
I believe Yukon made or makes a reverse/ comp air locker which uses air power to disengage the locker which is opposite from most which is air to engage.
Spring release is going to be the weaker of the directions.
With a spinning tire it should be easy to engage. Once bound and trying to disengage is when the spring release or air to release is going to be held up until the bind is low enough that the teeth can slip out.

I get the concept.

But my experience with Toyota elockers vs arb's is night and day on engagement and disengagement. ARB is instant in my experience. Where the elockers can be picky. Was just curious where the 10.5 elockers falls

 

[JR4X]

I get the concept.

But my experience with Toyota elockers vs arb's is night and day on engagement and disengagement. ARB is instant in my experience. Where the elockers can be picky. Was just curious where the 10.5 elockers falls

Fast engage, only disengage once out of a bind. If you wait till you are already in a turn to disengage it, it stays engaged until you straighten out again. Edit, they seem to be completely immune to crash locking. Like they don’t have the energy to partially lock. They either lock correctly or don’t go in at all.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Fast engage, only disengage once out of a bind. If you wait till you are already in a turn to disengage it, it stays engaged until you straighten out again. Edit, they seem to be completely immune to crash locking. Like they don’t have the energy to partially lock. They either lock correctly or don’t go in at all.

Guessing you're talking the factory truck?

I wonder if there is a computer stopping engagement when there is any kind of wheelspeed difference.

 

[415yota]

I didn't bother reading your link, I don't need a link .

It isn't custom parts, it's just different parts, a quick feasibility study will tell you that none of that is worth it (imo)

I can grab an old Dana 70U that has killer clearance and a nice smooth bottom and shove any gears in it I want and not bother with trying to make something work that's uncooperative .

If you look at part catalogs they don’t make the 10.25 master install kit for the 2011+ 10.5’s (the date ends at 2010 for compatibility). The pinion bearing/race OD is slightly larger on the 37 spline 2011+ 10.5 axle. This is why the 10.25 gear sets are not compatible with the 2011+ axles. So you would need a custom sleeve or something to fit the 10.25 pinion bearing/race on the 2011+ housing.

 

[JR4X]

Guessing you're talking the factory truck?

I wonder if there is a computer stopping engagement when there is any kind of wheelspeed difference.

Yes and no. Torque management won’t let it try to engage it under WOT but that’s it. I drive around with the locker on most every day. It turns off and on based on vehicle speed. I watch that light come on and off all day. It turns off at 25 mph and turns back on at 20, it will re engage whether I’m turning or not. Or whether or not I’m doing some jack ass stuff with tire chains on in the mud. I can feel it crash engage because remember, these things will do 30 mph in 1st gear. So hit the rev limiter all locked in because you’re stuck in a mud hole. It’s unlocked on its way to the moon at 25 so now one wheel is stopped and the other is free wheeling. When the speedometer gets back down to 20 on the decel it still engages and clunks/shakes the whole truck when it goes in, and it goes in. I just got home from work working that thing.

Oh, and I didn’t lift this one when I had it built. Thought I didn’t want to climb up into it like my last one. Turns out 285/70/17’s on the factory wheels don’t leave tire chain room on the passenger side. The tire chain hits the exhaust bad. So if I sling chains I do both fronts and just the drivers side rear. So that locker is driving a mismatched traction situation back there and having to modulate it between the over/under speed limit like that. I’m not worried about it and I have no immediate intention of rectifying that situation. I’m only carrying 3 tire chains on it. I’ve put over 450k oil field miles on ford E locker rears like the description above and have never hurt one yet. I cannot believe GM has the audacity to not have that at least as an option in their trucks when ford has had it as standard equipment for 14 years now.

 

[Sean]

I cannot believe GM has the audacity to not have that at least as an option in their trucks when ford has had it as standard equipment for 14 years now.

Amen. The fact that they got away with their hunk-o-shit gov-lok for decades is testament to how stupid they are when it comes to traction devices over at GM.

 

[[486]]

Yes and no. Torque management won’t let it try to engage it under WOT but that’s it. I drive around with the locker on most every day. It turns off and on based on vehicle speed. I watch that light come on and off all day. It turns off at 25 mph and turns back on at 20, it will re engage whether I’m turning or not. Or whether or not I’m doing some jack ass stuff with tire chains on in the mud. I can feel it crash engage because remember, these things will do 30 mph in 1st gear. So hit the rev limiter all locked in because you’re stuck in a mud hole. It’s unlocked on its way to the moon at 25 so now one wheel is stopped and the other is free wheeling. When the speedometer gets back down to 20 on the decel it still engages and clunks/shakes the whole truck when it goes in, and it goes in. I just got home from work working that thing.

wonder if ou could just feed it power without computer control, keep it locked no matter the speed

 

[JR4X]

wonder if ou could just feed it power without computer control, keep it locked no matter the speed

You can. That’s what I did in my 21 Bronco. The front locker is on a toggle switch. Full 12 volts to lock and it stays locked when I tell it to. I have two superduty e-locked rear axles for projects. I’m just going to put them on a toggle switch just like the Bronco no matter what those go in. One is slated for my OBS F350 and I don’t want any fancy crap.

I wouldn’t be brave enough to do that on my work truck until the warranty was nearing its end which comes fast. They only do us 40 or 50k on these because of what we put them through.