4340/4140 Chromoly TTB Slip Yoke

['84 Bronco II]

If you've got a custom inner shaft, why can't you use a driveshaft slip yoke?

SONNAX T3-3-4281HP Forged Chromoly Transmission Slip yoke for GM 700R, 4L60, 4L65, 4L70 1350 Series 27 spline | FREE SHIPPING

I am pretty sure you can use a driveshaft slip yoke with a Dana 50 inner shaft since the Dana 35/44/50 intermediate axle is 31 spline slip like a 2wd Ford transmission as I mentioned earlier in the thread, but Arse never verified for us However, no one makes replacement Dana 50 passenger inner axles, and no one makes custom shafts with Dana 50 style 1350 yokes as I explaned as well, so you have to find one in a junkyard as I did.

The only slip yoke application for a 1310WJ (5-760X) is a Dana 35/44 TTB, so no one currently makes an upgraded material yoke. What it boils down to, is currently, there is no way yo get a full chromoly axle set in a TTB without shelling out stupid money for a set of RCVs. RCV only has an off the shelf design for the 1/2 ton Dana 44, so Dana 35, Dana 44HD, and Dana 50 axle sets would be custom and even more expensive.

 

[TTMotorsports]

I know a few people switched the RCV axles when they did there custom extended D44 TTB. Are you needing to keep u joints or already invested money into he shafts you have now and just want to fix that last week link.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I've been cancelling my daily reminder to measure that shit for weeks now. Since I'm working from home today I might get to it.

 

[arse_sidewards]

It fits nicely.

And the reverse (D44 yoke onto trans mainshaft) works great too.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I'm still not sure how being able to use an off the shelf chromo slip yoke helps you unless you're consistantly breaking just the shaft side yoke at the middle. The diff side yoke is just gonna blow up on you instead. Though I suppose a super short D44 stub is easy enough to make or cheap enough to have made.

 

['84 Bronco II]

It fits nicely.

And the reverse (D44 yoke onto trans mainshaft) works great too.

I'm still not sure how being able to use an off the shelf chromo slip yoke helps you unless you're consistantly breaking just the shaft side yoke at the middle. The diff side yoke is just gonna blow up on you instead. Though I suppose a super short D44 stub is easy enough to make or cheap enough to have made.

Because there are cheap, off-the-shelf 4340 options for for all the shafts in a 1/2 ton Dana 44 and all but the driver side inner for a Dana 35. I could have bought a brand new 4340 Dana 35 Passenger side inner for less than I paid for the junkyard Dana 50 shaft and avoided having to upgrade to a 30 spline carrier if there were a 31 spline 4340 slip yoke for a 5-760X joint available. Not to mention, I wouldn't have to deal with clearancing the Dana 35 beam for the 5-1350X Dana 50 joint.

I am waiting on the shafts and U-joints from Bronco Graveyard, but the driver side inner I ordered from Dutchman and the Dana 50 Passenger side inner and slip joint I bought off eBay just showed up today.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Because there are cheap, off-the-shelf 4340 options for for all the shafts in a 1/2 ton Dana 44

Including the stub that would be on the pass side of the 3rd member of the TTB?


I assume you'd have to cut the clip ring yourself or spring the slip joint but I would still consider that to be "off the shelf" for anybody doing this kind of stuff

and all but the driver side inner for a Dana 35.

I could have bought a brand new 4340 Dana 35 Passenger side inner for less than I paid for the junkyard Dana 50 shaft and avoided having to upgrade to a 30 spline carrier if there were a 31 spline 4340 slip yoke for a 5-760X joint available. Not to mention, I wouldn't have to deal with clearancing the Dana 35 beam for the 5-1350X Dana 50 joint.

Two things:

1) Links to parts?

2) but then you'd still have a tiny weak 1310 joint, no?

 

[arse_sidewards]

I'm too many beers in to think about this shit right now but when you get it all sorted you need to do a small build thread laying the exact details out.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I'm too many beers in to think about this shit right now but when you get it all sorted you need to do a small build thread laying the exact details out.

It's called polishing a turd. Same thing Jeep guys do to their stock axles, this one is just bendy and requires more polishing.

Just fucking with you OP, I like your Bronco.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Two things:

1) Links to parts?

2) but then you'd still have a tiny weak 1310 joint, no?

Off the shelf 4340 Dana 35 TTB shafts:
Outers
Passenger intermediate (31 spline for slip yoke)
Passenger Inner with C-clip groove

Off the shelf 4340 Dana 44 TTB shafts:
Full set minus the passenger inner
Passenger Inner with C-clip groove
Off the shelf RCV setup for the ballers

Yes, these axle sets would still use the 5-760X center joint (Larger trunions than a 1310 driveshaft joint), but you can't get away from the 5-760X joints at the wheels anyway unless you fab up some custom knuckles/Cs like vetteboy79 did on his Dana 35. I have yet to break a 5-760X joint though, so I am not sure that would be the weak point. I'd bet 4340 Dana 35 outers will break first assuming the ears can stay together on the 4340 shafts. I know a 5-760X joint is stronger than a stock 19 spline Dana 44 outer which is a good bit bigger than a Dana 35 outer.

I'm too many beers in to think about this shit right now but when you get it all sorted you need to do a small build thread laying the exact details out.

I will update my Bronco II build thread when I finish, I just got all the parts in I need this week.

It's called polishing a turd. Same thing Jeep guys do to their stock axles, this one is just bendy and requires more polishing.

Just fucking with you OP, I like your Bronco.

Well, you're not wrong

 

[vetteboy79]

To be fair: I built mine because I wanted to ditch the hub/spindle arrangement, I know you can put D44 knuckles on without too much trouble, but for our racing here (lots of woods/trees) I wanted the larger SD60 unit bearings and ball joints. I didn't do it for the torque requirement. And because I had the larger knuckles I certainly wasn't going to put the little RCVs there. The center one I kept as the small joint because it fit (larger RCV bell would not have cleared the TTB pivot bolt) and the angle on my rig is pretty straight, only time it gets bad is at full droop and if the front is drooped out there's not a whole lot of torque going there anyway.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Off the shelf 4340 Dana 35 TTB shafts:
Outers
Passenger intermediate (31 spline for slip yoke)
Passenger Inner with C-clip groove

Off the shelf 4340 Dana 44 TTB shafts:
Full set minus the passenger inner
Passenger Inner with C-clip groove

So it's as simple as buy either of those depending on 44 vs 35 and add a chromo 31spl Ford trans yoke?

Yes, these axle sets would still use the 5-760X center joint (Larger trunions than a 1310 driveshaft joint), but you can't get away from the 5-760X joints at the wheels anyway unless you fab up some custom knuckles/Cs like vetteboy79 did on his Dana 35. I have yet to break a 5-760X joint though, so I am not sure that would be the weak point. I'd bet 4340 Dana 35 outers will break first assuming the ears can stay together on the 4340 shafts. I know a 5-760X joint is stronger than a stock 19 spline Dana 44 outer which is a good bit bigger than a Dana 35 outer.

Stock shafts are way, way stronger than mid and low range aftermarket joints.

 

['84 Bronco II]

So it's as simple as buy either of those depending on 44 vs 35 and add a chromo 31spl Ford trans yoke?

No, because transmission slip yokes for a 5-760X joint do not exist, however, that is an option with Dana 50 shafts.

Stock shafts are way, way stronger than mid and low range aftermarket joints.

Which is why I am specifically typing the Spicer part number.

 

[arse_sidewards]

No, because transmission slip yokes for a 5-760X joint do not exist

And the cross diameter doesn't match anything you can slip a different cap (that you can get a trans yoke for) on?

 

[bdkw1]

Yoke is from a C6 application, mated to a D50 stub with a custom secondary bearing carrier.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Yoke is from a C6 application, mated to a D50 stub with a custom secondary bearing carrier.

I might have to look into going to a transmission slip yoke. I was grinding on the dana 50 yoke a bit and was only able to get ˜27º out of it without breaking into the splines. I forgot, what it started at, but I think it was right at or just under 20º It would also be nice if it were an inch or two longer because the spline engagement is kind of shallow in the Dana 35 beam, but I think it will be okay considering I was bottoming out the slip joint before.

 

[Thatg9659]

To be fair: I built mine because I wanted to ditch the hub/spindle arrangement, I know you can put D44 knuckles on without too much trouble, but for our racing here (lots of woods/trees) I wanted the larger SD60 unit bearings and ball joints. I didn't do it for the torque requirement. And because I had the larger knuckles I certainly wasn't going to put the little RCVs there. The center one I kept as the small joint because it fit (larger RCV bell would not have cleared the TTB pivot bolt) and the angle on my rig is pretty straight, only time it gets bad is at full droop and if the front is drooped out there's not a whole lot of torque going there anyway.

Your build thread was awesome. I have yet to see one video clip of it rippin through the woods.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Here's what I ended up doing: '84 Bronco II Build Thread