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2006 overland / light duty crawler build

Front and rear bumper are coming together awesomely. For the y link radius arms....has anyone ran them flipped. Not the factory ones but the "jeep style" or clayton style....wouldnt it provide more ground clearance...esp for a crossover rig like this? Basically run them upside down from the normal style.

I’ve thought about that, but I wouldn’t want to be smacking the joint on the smaller link on rocks. I think that’s why everyone runs the longer link on the bottom, plus a long smooth link will slide over rocks easier than something with a joint in the middle
 
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How nice is it having a plasma cutter? I’ve been considering buying one

I bough mine used, Miller 375. Not something I use a lot to be honest. But at times, cutting something out of a hole/corner, priceless.

For bumper work it is faster than cut off wheel, cut are straight as you can use a fence, but need more clean up. I wouldn't get one just for a bumper type job.
 
This looks like an awesome plan for a cheap wheeler. When I first read through it my head immediately thought "WTF the stock IFS will never hold up!" then realized that F250 SD D60s don't have that problem. :laughing:

For that roof rack, you can bandaid it for the time being by running thicker and softer rubber bushings above and below the cap. But once you get a nicer cap definitely mount it as shown earlier to allow for more flex.
 
Sweet, when you get it finished ill drop off my 02 single cab 7.3 6spd for the same treatment. Although i want 42s as low as possible, a spool in the rear, and hydro assist

There was a guy on a forum years ago, Pirate? FTE? Don’t remember which one. He put a 4in lift, 42’s and cut out flares on. It was bad ass for the time. Gray/black, two tone, crew cab, diesel. It looked great from internet...
 
There was a guy on a forum years ago, Pirate? FTE? Don’t remember which one. He put a 4in lift, 42’s and cut out flares on. It was bad ass for the time. Gray/black, two tone, crew cab, diesel. It looked great from internet...

Think he was TANK... On FTE or Powerstroke Nation.
 
Picked up some 37s, and made a bit of progress on the front bumper. I picked up a piece of 2.5x2.5 square tube, cut some holes in it, and ran my shackle mounts all the way through it, then welded them in there from the front and back. When that was done I stuck it where it made sense and called it good. The winch plate will be going back in soon along with some lights, but I’m waiting for the winch to show up so I can get everything mocked up first

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Anyone know of a good over the knuckle steering kit for these trucks? I know these axles are becoming popular, it would be nice if I didn’t have to cobble something together
 
So I’m having a bit of a dilemma with steering options. The tie rod is currently under the knuckle and has shit for ground clearance, so I need to fix this. The wheels I’m running have a backspacing of 4.75, but it’s looking like all the weld to knuckle crossover kits available allow for no more than 4.25 backspacing.

I’m thinking about drilling out the knuckles for the weld in gm style tre adapters and running a y link type setup, this is seeming like the best bang for the buck solution

This truck will be getting a lot of miles on it and it’s gonna get beat on occasion so what ever I do it has to be solid and reliable. Id like to hear what you guys think makes the most sense, as I’m currently somewhat stumped
 
I did my own high steer setup on my brothers JK with heims on his super duty axles. Maybe you can do that? It definitely keeps the tie rod further away from the rim compared to the the kits you buy
 

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I did my own high steer setup on my brothers JK with heims on his super duty axles. Maybe you can do that? It definitely keeps the tie rod further away from the rim compared to the the kits you buy
I like where your going with that, id probably want to fully box it in, but im not sure a setup like that can be boxed in while still allowing for clearance of the heims as well as the 4.75 backspacing. how much room did you have left between the rim and the heims?
 
I like where your going with that, id probably want to fully box it in, but im not sure a setup like that can be boxed in while still allowing for clearance of the heims as well as the 4.75 backspacing. how much room did you have left between the rim and the heims?
I will have to get pics of that, his backspacing is 4.5 not 4.75 but with the weld on kits it had to be 3.5 so this could work.

As for boxing it, it may or may not fit, but there are no cracks after 2k road miles and 1 wheeling trip.
 
Good looking truck\build. If your going to be re-gearing at some point maybe keep eyes open for a junkyard E-locker rear in meantime? That way truck stays together while you re-gear the rear, swap it in and then start on front.
 
Good looking truck\build. If your going to be re-gearing at some point maybe keep eyes open for a junkyard E-locker rear in meantime? That way truck stays together while you re-gear the rear, swap it in and then start on front.
Factory e lockers for these axles are pretty rare from what I understand, and it’s not like a yota where you can just swap 3rd members. I’d rather just save the money until I can fully rebuild both axles and do 5:13s and ox lockers front and rear. Plus I prefer the cable actuated lockers, I like having manual inputs
 
I love the truck, I'm always shopping for the right deal on a gas superduty because I think it would make a really nice and simple trail rig. Ive got the Artec arms on my 07 SD60 under my chevy. I run a 17x9 dirty life beadlock wheel with 4.45" back spacing and the clearence is pretty tight. keep up the good work on this thing.
 
Any updates?

I've started back up on my v10 super duty project and came here for some inspiration :laughing:
 
Any updates?

I've started back up on my v10 super duty project and came here for some inspiration :laughing:
I’m still saving for lockers, and I broke the steering box so I’ve got to fix that now too. Hope to get everything done this spring, got a lot of places I want to take this thing when the snow melt’s
 
Fun build, bumpers turned out awesome!

I would give that factory 10.5 electric locker a hard look if I was in your shoes. while I am sure there not as strong as a ARB/OX I had a hard time finding people talking about breaking them when I last looked for myself recently. there are threads of folks finding them new from ford for ~550-600 and drilling their own pass through for the wiring. very cost effective compared to the other selectable locker options.
 
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