2004 1-ton TJ Build

[67StingrayJ]

Here its is. My first jeep. This will be to track my build for a 1-ton rock crawler. It's a 2004 TJ. It needs a lot of work but it has good bones.

It came with 1-ton axles front and back, but the seller didn't know off of what. Axle BOM reads "4446A 610445 3". This website indicates its off of a 1994 F-350?

1992-1997 Dana 60 Ford F350 Front Axle ID | 1996 Ford F350 Front Axle Identification Online at Torque King

Visit Torque King for 1992-1997 Dana 60 Ford F350 front axle identification. Our website has in-depth details and information on the 1996 Ford F350 Front Axle and much more. Click here to learn more about the Dana 60 Ford F350 Front Axle!

torqueking.com

It's missing axle shafts, u-joints and needs new bearings all around. I need help knowing for surer what to buy. Any recommendations? Any help would be most appreciated.

 

[RunningProblem]

BillaVista.com-Dana 60 Front Axle Bible Tech Article by BillaVista

Start here.

 

[LScout800]

Looks like an early ford balljoint dana 60. Parts are pretty availible. Bearings, shafts, and seals were the same from 89 to 97 I believe. You should just be able to order them off rock auto or Amazon. If you want chromoly shafts you will need to order a set along with some 35 spline lockouts. If the rear is from the same truck it will be a sterling 10.25.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Alright…. Now give us the rest of the details on this Heep!!!!!!

Gonna be watching this… I’ve got an 03…. Mild build!!!!

 

[67StingrayJ]

Alright…. Now give us the rest of the details on this Heep!!!!!!

Gonna be watching this… I’ve got an 03…. Mild build!!!!

I could easily overwhelm you with this project!

Short story is the seller (a kid) bought it from a guy that put a long travel kit, Dana 60s front and rear, some Poison Spider crap and some aftermarket front fenders. The jeep ran, but was not drivable. The kid paid $6,000 for it back in 2019. When the kid got it he decided to put coil over King shocks on it and it sat that way till now.

I'm the 3rd owner and am going to finish the build. Here are some photos of when I went to go look at it.

 

[67StingrayJ]

As I said before, the first owner put aftermarket fenders on it. It has no inner fender and a bunch of parts are hanging loose under the hood.

I hope these can be salvaged.

Notice the rag.

 

[67StingrayJ]

There are a number of issues that need to be fixed. Some I know about, other I have yet to discover. As I'm ready to tackle each, I'll shout out as to what questions I have and hopefully y'all won't let me down.

Immediate action....

• Address the Body lean. Kid said the King Shock did have oil.
• Parts under the hood hanging loose need attachment.
• Needs Inner Fenders.
• Gas Tank need to be fitted and/or leveled.
• Front axle shafts, inner axel shafts and U-joints are missing.
• Shock reservoirs need a home.
• Water pump needs to be replaced.
• Radiator needs a flush. it has leek fix crap in it.
• Radiator fan is electric. I want to go back to stock setup.
• I need to figure out what the brakes are off of.
• Upper and lower control arm bolts.
• Power steering hoses leaking.
• Check engine light is on... duh.
• Needs an exhaust.
• Needs an Emergency brake.
• Fluid checks.

Long term Wishes...

1. Loockers.
2. 40" tires.
3. Bead lock wheels.
4. Better Transfer case, probably from a Rubicon.
5. On board air.
6. Shock Hoops.
7. Boat sides.
8. Custom roll cage and sliders.
9. Winch.
10. Front axle stretch for ~105" wheelbase.
11. Paint.

Inspiration

Yes, I know it's not a jeep!

Stay Tuned! Lots of work!

 

['84 Bronco II]

One thing that jumped out to me as needing attention that you didn't have on your list is reinforcing the shock towers in the front. That is a lot of of leverage to just have butt welded to the top of the frame rail.

Also, the inpiration builds you posted are all longer than 105" WB.

Your front axle is from a 1994 F350 4.10 ratio open differential. (see highlighted part number in the table)

 

[67StingrayJ]

One thing that jumped out to me as needing attention that you didn't have on your list is reinforcing the shock towers in the front. That is a lot of of leverage to just have butt welded to the top of the frame rail.

Also, the inspiration builds you posted are all longer than 105" WB.

Your front axle is from a 1994 F350 4.10 ratio open differential. (see highlighted part number in the table)

• Yeah, I agree on the shock towers. I'd like to do shock hoops later on but till then, they 100% need to be addressed.
• And yes, I know their Wheel Base (WB) is much greater than what I have planned. I'm just using the above builds as inspiration, not necessarily a template.

Thanks for posting the info for the 1994 Ford F-350. Below is a photo of the front wheel. If you notice, you can see straight through it. I need parts. I'm hoping I don't need hubs as well. How will I know?

I'm hoping these will still be salvageable. Right now there's just a rag stuck in the axle tube. I need to get Axle shafts and U-joints. And I assume I'll need some bearing and seals too? Would that depend on the axle shafts I purchase?

This is my first solid front axle vehicle. I'm learning as I go. I'm not sure what this part of the axle is called, but I found some markings. Do I need to identify this before I can order bearings, seals, etc?

While I was down there, I pulled the front cover. Turns out I have OX lockers up front.

Inside is an OXD60 410F. I wasn't sure what that told me. I assumed it meant I have 4.10 gears but it takes between 5.25 - 5.5 drive shaft rotations to complete one rotation of the ring gear. So that tells me I have 5.38 gearing in the front.

I looked up the numbers on the OX website and I was quickly confused.

The OX website says OXD60 410F is a Dana 60 OX Locking Differential (4.10-) (35 Spline Ct.) is for 4.10 (or numerically lower) gear ratio. I emailed the guys over at OX to find out how I could have 5.38 gear ratio on their product when it clears says 4.10 or numerically lower gear.

Chip at OX replied saying:
"Because you are running a thick cut gear is my guess. That is normal for the Super Duty from D60.
The 4:10 carrier allows for the extra material on the thick cut gear to clear the pinion on the install.
But if you counted 43 teeth on the ring gear and 8 teeth on the pinion it will come out to be a 5.375 gear or in other words a 5:38 gear set."


The kid I bought the jeep from told me there was nothing in the front diff.
I was just happy to find gears in there.
Finding lockers was a bonus.
Finding out it had 5.38 gears was cherry!



To be honest, I'm not exactly sure what Chip over at OX means when he says I have "thick cut gears" . If someone can comment on the thick cut gears as well as the markings I mention above to get bearings and seals that would be greatly appreciated!

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Brakes look like the common 1/2t gm caliper, 3/4t rotor kit.

Those plate towers are just as good or better than "hoops"

Thick gears are just that, thicker to work with the 4.10 and down carrier. I believe all HP60s use that carrier and thick gears with 4.56-5.38s.

Stub shafts will clean up fine.

 

[RunningProblem]

The red part you’re circling is the Inner C.


Those look like grade 5 bolts. Upgrade those. if you have a Caterpillar dealer/parts warehouse you can buy bolts from them. They’re grade 8 or stronger. It’s what I started using just because finding fine thread grade 8 was annoying on weekends, and Cat bolts are inexpensive.

Those outer axles shafts should work fine. They’re probably 30 spline. Since you appear to need locking hubs you have two options.
1) buy my stock ford Hubs. Everything is there except ONE Allen bolt. They’re 30 spline and will work.

2) upgrade the stub shafts (outers) and locking hubs. I went 35 spline outers with Stage 8 lock nuts.

You can buy new shock towers with tabs that will brace it against the frame. Ruffstuff makes some (it’s the brand I used) and I’m sure someone like TMR also makes some. Put those in before making inner genders or you’ll be cutting you inner fenders to make them fit more.


I don’t know much, and I’m not an expert, but at least I’ve built a front 3 link and have ONE experience doing it so I can offer a little advice/help/idea.

 

[RunningProblem]

It also looks like the stop nuts on your sliders are stupid high. With the Jeep at ride height adjust those down until 1-2” above the slider. Otherwise you’re just running a really long single rate spring.

 

[LScout800]

As I said before, the first owner put aftermarket fenders on it. It has no inner fender and a bunch of parts are hanging loose under the hood.

I hope these can be salvaged.

Notice the rag.

Are those high steer knuckles? Look like someone machined a little keyway into them with some bolt holes. If they are see about getting high steer arms to get away from those steep steering and panhard angles.

 

[67StingrayJ]

It also looks like the stop nuts on your sliders are stupid high. With the Jeep at ride height adjust those down until 1-2” above the slider. Otherwise you’re just running a really long single rate spring.

Stop nut on my sliders? What's a stop nut? what's a slider? Could you please explain? I'm learning... :)

 

[67StingrayJ]

The red part you’re circling is the Inner C.


Those look like grade 5 bolts. Upgrade those. if you have a Caterpillar dealer/parts warehouse you can buy bolts from them. They’re grade 8 or stronger. It’s what I started using just because finding fine thread grade 8 was annoying on weekends, and Cat bolts are inexpensive.

Those outer axles shafts should work fine. They’re probably 30 spline. Since you appear to need locking hubs you have two options.
1) buy my stock ford Hubs. Everything is there except ONE Allen bolt. They’re 30 spline and will work.

2) upgrade the stub shafts (outers) and locking hubs. I went 35 spline outers with Stage 8 lock nuts.

You can buy new shock towers with tabs that will brace it against the frame. Ruffstuff makes some (it’s the brand I used) and I’m sure someone like TMR also makes some. Put those in before making inner genders or you’ll be cutting you inner fenders to make them fit more.


I don’t know much, and I’m not an expert, but at least I’ve built a front 3 link and have ONE experience doing it so I can offer a little advice/help/idea.

• Inner C. Got it.
• OK. I'll get some grade 8 stuff.
  • Man hardware is expensive!
  • Any idea on bolt size? I think they're all 18mm?
  • Is there a reason people go with fine threads?
• Well, you got my attention on buying your hubs. I'll DM you.
  • Why would I need locking hubs?
  • Isn't that what a locking diff is for?
• I'm undecided on the shock towers. Suggestion noted.
  • It will be a while before I do some serious wheeling.
  • Do I really NEED inner fenders? LOL
• You know more than me, and have been very informative. Much appreciated.

 

[67StingrayJ]

Are those high steer knuckles? Look like someone machined a little keyway into them with some bolt holes. If they are see about getting high steer arms to get away from those steep steering and panhard angles.

I would be looking to the community (you people) to help me determine what knuckles I have. The slots do look machined. I'm planning on 40s and want the jeep to be as street worth as possible without breaking the bank. I'm thinking an honest 75/25 between dedicated rocker and road rasher.

When I get to the steering, I'll revisit the issue. But seriously, thanks for pointing these things out to me. I for sure have some geometry issues that need to be addressed. That panhard bar is WAY steep! Just look at it! Yikes!

 

[67StingrayJ]

Brakes look like the common 1/2t gm caliper, 3/4t rotor kit.

Those plate towers are just as good or better than "hoops"

Thick gears are just that, thicker to work with the 4.10 and down carrier. I believe all HP60s use that carrier and thick gears with 4.56-5.38s.

Stub shafts will clean up fine.

It looks like if I adjust the preload on the springs the nut will hit the shock towers. Maybe not. It could be just the angle of the photo. I'll have to check it out.

These are more pics of my brakes.

What is "HP60s"?

 

[RunningProblem]

It looks like if I adjust the preload on the springs the nut will hit the shock towers. Maybe not. It could be just the angle of the photo. I'll have to check it out.

What is "HP60s"?

HP60 = High Pinion 60. It refers to the location of the pinion gear.
LP60 = low pinion (Chevy Dana 60 is low pinion.

Slider = the black thing that says KING SHOCKS. It slides up and down the shocks.

Stop Nuts = those two silver nuts at the top of your coilspring underneath the blue "retainer thingy" (coil adjustment nut)

Your bottom spring is a heavier spring rate than the top. It's a "dual rate" spring setup (two springs, different rates) and the stop nuts adjust when the (I think) top spring stops working by itself and BOTH springs start working together.

part names

Shop - Parts

Shop - Parts

www.kingshocks.com

EDIT: your bolts are going to be SAE, or at least I THINK they are.

 

[LScout800]

It looks like if I adjust the preload on the springs the nut will hit the shock towers. Maybe not. It could be just the angle of the photo. I'll have to check it out.

If the preload adjuster hits the shock towers they were poorly designed and should be replaced with something else, or at least reworked to fit properly. Is there any numbers on the steering knuckles? You might be able to find a part number and find parts for them online. You have a good list, but that front suspension definitely needs a rework. I don't see any bumps or limit straps to protect the shocks/suspension, that pan hard angle will cause the axle to move side to side a lot, and the steering is downright sketchy.

 

[DannyK]

Jeep looks too tall. I don't see those coilover mounts working because of that. I would be trying to lower the whole Jeep at least 6".

 

[67StingrayJ]

Jeep looks to tall. I don't see those coilover mounts working because of that. I would be trying to lower the whole Jeep at least 6".

I agree. I want to take the body off the frame and re-do the entire suspension and drivetrain. I don't like how tall it is. 'm considering a custom frame to get the ride height exactly how I want it.

EDIT: your bolts are going to be SAE, or at least I THINK they are.

I would love to know for sure if I need Metric or SAE. The only way I know to find out is to take a caliper to them, but even still I assume there would be some tolerance. The kid had a bolt that was way to short (see below). It was 18mm with fine threads, but I wasn't sure if the kid just arbitrarily picked a size or what.

If the preload adjuster hits the shock towers they were poorly designed and should be replaced with something else, or at least reworked to fit properly. Is there any numbers on the steering knuckles? You might be able to find a part number and find parts for them online. You have a good list, but that front suspension definitely needs a rework. I don't see any bumps or limit straps to protect the shocks/suspension, that pan hard angle will cause the axle to move side to side a lot, and the steering is downright sketchy.

What's "down right sketchy" about my steering? I can't do anything if I don't understand what you mean. Don't get me wrong, I agree, it needs work. But I'm here for help and to learn, and share my lessons learned. saying it's sketchy isn't much help. Attached is another photo for comment.

Your correct about the panhard bar. The jeep darts and shoots left and/or right when i hit the drainage culvert in my neighborhood. I know the front suspension needs to be reworked. The shock mounts may be too short, and the preload may be off. Most likely, it's both. I want to take the body off the frame and do a complete revamp. I'm considering a custom frame to get the ride height exactly how I want it.

What steering knuckle parts would I be needing, assuming everything other than the knuckle was missing? Here is a better pic. Do i have king pins or ball joints? Do I need parts based on the knuckle, or the hub, or the axle, or all the above?

The shock tower does work with the preload adjuster. It's just a funny camera angle. And yes, I know i need bump stops. I'll add it to my list. Do all coilers need limiting straps? I don't recall there jeeps having them.

As always, thanks for the insights. Stay tuned!

 

[67StingrayJ]

updated action list:

Immediate action (in no particular order):

1. Address the Body lean. Kid said the King Shock did have oil.
2. Parts under the hood hanging loose need attachment.
3. Needs Inner Fenders.
4. Shock towers are questionable and need attention.
5. Gas Tank need to be fitted and/or leveled.
6. Front axle shafts, inner axel shafts and U-joints are missing.
7. Shock reservoirs need a home.
8. Water pump needs to be replaced.
9. Radiator needs a flush. it has leek fix crap in it.
10. Radiator fan is electric. I want to go back to stock setup.
11. I need to figure out what the brakes are off of.
12. Upper and lower control arm bolts.
13. Power steering hoses leaking.
14. Check engine light is on... duh.
15. Needs an exhaust.
16. Needs an Emergency brake.
17. Fluid checks.
18. Steering is "sketchy looking" LScout800
19. possible battery relocation.

Long term Wishes in no particular order.

• Loockers.
• 40" tires.
• Bead lock wheels.
• Better Transfer case, probably from a Rubicon.
• On board air.
• Bump Stops.
• Boat sides.
• Custom roll cage and sliders.
• Winch.
• Front axle stretch for ~105" wheelbase.
• Paint.
• cab enclosure of some kind.

On a lighter note, I found a home for the shock mounts. Best of all, no tools were required.

Look at all that crap just hanging under the hood!

Stay tuned! I plan to tackle more tomorrow!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Your list should read…….

1. READ EVERY TJ ONE TON SWAP THREAD ON THIS SITE and as much as I hate to say it, the old site, pirate4x4!!!!!!
The old place is dead, so bring any questions you have from there, to here!!!!
Some here can suggest which threads would be best for your application!!!!!
You have a lot of good parts here…. But also a lot of work to be done!!!!!

 

[67StingrayJ]

Your list should read…….

1. READ EVERY TJ ONE TON SWAP THREAD ON THIS SITE and as much as I hate to say it, the old site, pirate4x4!!!!!!
The old place is dead, so bring any questions you have from there, to here!!!!
Some here can suggest which threads would be best for your application!!!!!
You have a lot of good parts here…. But also a lot of work to be done!!!!!

100% agree. I've been reading for days now!

 

[67StingrayJ]

I'm looking to push my front axle as far forward as possible but still retain a mechanical connection/steering. I DO NOT WANT TO GO FULL HYDRO! I don't even know what to search. I searched for Front axle stretch, front axle push but didn't find anything specific. I'm sure the info is out there, I'm just not searching correctly. Any suggestions?

From what I can tell, I'm sure I'm going to have to sacrifice the OEM Steering box for something else. I was looking at my jeep and I wonder if anyone is running their steering box behind their draglink, behind the Pahnard bar (trackbar)?

Because people appreciate pictures...

As I ask about a backwards steering box, I realize that's not really realistic. Or is it?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Just stretch the front frame rails. EZPZ hahaha

Also subbd for a cool project!

 

[Treefrog]

As I ask about a backwards steering box, I realize that's not really realistic. Or is it?

Forward swing. Newer Jeeps use them, as well as some trucks.

 

[fl0w3n]

Props to you for diving right in. Also helpful to just read through the discussion.

I have never thought about Cat dealer for bolts like RunningProblem said, that's a good idea. Another option is to order from NutsandBolts.com - I've ordered some stuff through them. it makes it easy to get exactly the length and size you want.

Also, as kind of general advice I would suggest maybe getting it going as-is as safely as possible. Before you go down the rabitt hole of stretching the front axle, rebuilding the frame, and tearing into it with big projects. It looks like you're probably already on that track with your first list.

 

[wagfabulous]

updated action list:

Immediate action (in no particular order):

1. Address the Body lean. Kid said the King Shock did have oil.
2. Parts under the hood hanging loose need attachment.
3. Needs Inner Fenders.
4. Shock towers are questionable and need attention.
5. Gas Tank need to be fitted and/or leveled.
6. Front axle shafts, inner axel shafts and U-joints are missing.
7. Shock reservoirs need a home.
8. Water pump needs to be replaced.
9. Radiator needs a flush. it has leek fix crap in it.
10. Radiator fan is electric. I want to go back to stock setup.
11. I need to figure out what the brakes are off of.
12. Upper and lower control arm bolts.
13. Power steering hoses leaking.
14. Check engine light is on... duh.
15. Needs an exhaust.
16. Needs an Emergency brake.
17. Fluid checks.
18. Steering is "sketchy looking" LScout800
19. possible battery relocation.

Long term Wishes in no particular order.

• Loockers.
• 40" tires.
• Bead lock wheels.
• Better Transfer case, probably from a Rubicon.
• On board air.
• Bump Stops.
• Boat sides.
• Custom roll cage and sliders.
• Winch.
• Front axle stretch for ~105" wheelbase.
• Paint.
• cab enclosure of some kind.

On a lighter note, I found a home for the shock mounts. Best of all, no tools were required.

Look at all that crap just hanging under the hood!

Stay tuned! I plan to tackle more tomorrow!

I hate to be negative, but are you sure the fix a leak stuff is for the radiator ? Or did somebody do a craigslist rebuild on a head gasket?

 

[67StingrayJ]

I hate to be negative, but are you sure the fix a leak stuff is for the radiator ? Or did somebody do a craigslist rebuild on a head gasket?

No negative vibes felt. And to be honest, I have no real idea of knowing either way. Did I mention the seller said it needed a water pump? I drained and pulled the radiator. Lets take a look.

New pump installed. (Free, came with the jeep)
Definitely going to clean all that out.

Yeah, I'm 100% not reinstalling this... Heading to Autozone.

NASTY!