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2000 Ford F-550 Build

CarterKraft said:
I know nothing about the Spicer box's but in the real engine world (not pickups) the ratings of 300hp or so will be much more power than a pickup rating.
An example is a CAT C7 truck engine with a 225hp rating has torque rating of 520 lb ft and the max rating that engine has is 300 hp and 925 lb ft.
That's a inline 6 cylinder 7.2 liter engine used in Medium Duty truck applications.

So depending your goals I think you will safely be under those ratings even turned up from your stock 275hp/525 rating. IF you stay around 400 hp your Torque should be down there around the 800-900 mark. Obviously you might have the fuel/air to push that up to 500+ but towing HEAVY at that HP will be taxing on that pickup engine/transmission I don't care what anyone says.

It's easy to talk a bunch of shit with a chipped 3/4 ton truck but when you get to the 25K GVW class weak parts will leave you walking and cause catastrophic failures. Not trying to scare you, I think you are making all the right choices.
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Yeah, I would rather be told the truth and get scared as I sit in a chair by my computer instead of finding out the hard way off some 2 lane road in the middle of nowhere lol. I go back and forth on the brownie box or any way to lower my rpm other then a gear ratio change. I think I made decisions somewhat easily during this whole process but the gearing/transmission has been the toughest thing to decide on so far. Find a ZF6 or build the auto, gear ratio changes, brownie boxes etc. I tell myself "I need to shit or get off the pot" with this decision but I will keep that HP rating in mind on the brownie boxes.

Ideally I need to get out and drive the truck more. I wont be running a max tune on this truck when towing that is for sure. At times I ask myself, would I have been better off with a "real" medium duty truck or semi but this is easier to use around town then some of those other options and its probably the smallest I could go for what I want to do and it was cheap enough to take a shot at it. Once its 4x4 swapped I'd like to go be able to use it at some of the remote pits when my buddy races.

I have seen and heard of all the 3/4 ton truck guys talking shit :grinpimp:
 
GGRR 4555 said:
if IT AINT BILLET THEN DONT BOTHER. Billet is the only way to make metal stronger than popsicle sticks. I have a billet dildo and I wouldn't be caugth dead with a forged or cast dildo. Billet is life. :lmao:
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The amount of times I am told my 3/4 ton truck guys to get billet coolant reservoir caps and billet oil fill caps are too damn high. Fuck billet unless its in the drivetrain and necessary.
 
CarterKraft said:
I know nothing about the Spicer box's but in the real engine world (not pickups) the ratings of 300hp or so will be much more power than a pickup rating.
An example is a CAT C7 truck engine with a 225hp rating has torque rating of 520 lb ft and the max rating that engine has is 300 hp and 925 lb ft.
That's a inline 6 cylinder 7.2 liter engine used in Medium Duty truck applications.
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300 hp is 300 hp
it is just work done over time, all the unit means

the heavier engines make it at a lower RPM for longevity and fuel economy reasons but it is the same amount of work being done in the same amount of time

ETA: in terms of something so far down the driveline as an aux trans or a rearend;
the HP rating has everything to do with cooling and nothing to do with parts breakage
the torque rating is there because of parts breakage
 
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[486 said:
;n158253]
300 hp is 300 hp
it is just work done over time, all the unit means

the heavier engines make it at a lower RPM for longevity and fuel economy reasons but it is the same amount of work being done in the same amount of time

ETA: in terms of something so far down the driveline as an aux trans or a rearend;
the HP rating has everything to do with cooling and nothing to do with parts breakage
the torque rating is there because of parts breakage
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This, Torque is what breaks parts not HP. You could put 1000HP through any brownie box if you kept the max RPM limits in check.
 
I got the truck wrapped up and ready to start, when I go to start it the PHP hydra has dashes where the tune number should be. I disconnected it and it goes to normal but I didn’t try to start it since OEM is split shot and I’m single shot now.

I figured if it didn’t have a good connection it wouldn’t have power, which it does. I did realize I have a reman PCM, maybe the pcm code isn’t the same since the reman?
 
what did you disconnect that went to normal?

if you push the buttons on hydra does it do anything?

My understanding is split shots tunes will idle with single shots in place so you can try that too. The pcm code should be on the label on the pcm connector even if its reman?

Are you sure you cleaned all the silicone off both sides or terminals?
 
I unplugged the hydra from the PCM. When I had it plugged in the buttons do nothing, there's just 2 yellow dashes where the tune number should be. Could the PCM code on the PCM be different then what it could be since its a reman?
 
No icp like 0 or like 150?

what is ipr % ?

Is ipr assembled with spacer in correct spot?
 
HPOP resi was empty, I pulled the ICP sensor and started making pressure. I then put the sensor back in and it was back to zero. I then unscrewed it and POOF, tons of compressed air. I will crank it open until I see oil.
 
06h3 said:
HPOP resi was empty, I pulled the ICP sensor and started making pressure. I then put the sensor back in and it was back to zero. I then unscrewed it and POOF, tons of compressed air. I will crank it open until I see oil.
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That's usually pretty self bleeding, are the injectors "firing" you should be able to hear the clicks while cranking.
 
I did fill the HPOP resi last night. I will take a closer listen to the injectors firing.
 
She is running! Man, what a smoke show for 20-30 min of idling...I hope to test drive it tonight, I dont have an EGT gauge yet so that does worry me but I hope to just run a light tune and avoid full throttle.
 
We never talked about it but did you have a way to evacuate the cylinders after injector swap?
With your gearing I can't see EGT's being a issue unloaded.
 
CarterKraft said:
We never talked about it but did you have a way to evacuate the cylinders after injector swap?
With your gearing I can't see EGT's being a issue unloaded.
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I turned it over at the crank with a ratchet to eject all the crap out of it.

test drove it tonight and it ran like shit. In park or neutral it will rev but in drive it flat out doesn’t want to move. It will take a few seconds before the rpms slowly come up and start moving. ICP seems fine. Blows black smoke like crazy. I need to check boost and fuel pressure I guess.
 
High egts are only a problem for extended periods of time. You can peg a Guage for a second or 2 and be ok. It's the long hard pulls that do damage.

You could try to drive it a little more, I know my buddy's 96 ran like shit for around 100 miles after doing injector o rings. He didn't think to number the injectors and figured maybe the computer had to relearn them?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
High egts are only a problem for extended periods of time. You can peg a Guage for a second or 2 and be ok. It's the long hard pulls that do damage.

You could try to drive it a little more, I know my buddy's 96 ran like shit for around 100 miles after doing injector o rings. He didn't think to number the injectors and figured maybe the computer had to relearn them?
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how bad? Like horrible throttle lag bad?
 
06h3 said:
how bad? Like horrible throttle lag bad?
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It's been a while, but he said it was pretty bad, he expected some shit for a while, but after ~100 miles into an 800 mile trip it was bad enough that he turned around. Shortly after that, it cleared up. :confused:
 
Did you get the tuning (split vs single) figured out? Do you have Torque Pro yet? That would be my "gauges" suggestion before the Edge and all that other shit. Torque Pro on a Android radio is pretty fucking awesome.

Get some data to determine wtf is going on. There were issues when the dorman vc gaskets came out but I thought they were all resolved now.
 
Mine ran shitty at first after injector replacement. I called and they said to do ten full throttle on ramp pulls to bleed all the air out of the system. Said it could idle all day and not get it out. Don’t worry about egt’s unloaded. Not gonna be a problem. Pulling out of Saint George on the long grade that goes for miles to cedar city. Pulling 25,000 lbs I have to drive by the egt gauge on the plus 25 hp tow tune.
 
CarterKraft said:
Did you get the tuning (split vs single) figured out? Do you have Torque Pro yet? That would be my "gauges" suggestion before the Edge and all that other shit. Torque Pro on a Android radio is pretty fucking awesome.

Get some data to determine wtf is going on. There were issues when the dorman vc gaskets came out but I thought they were all resolved now.
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I have a OBD2 wifi/bluetooth thing on the way from amazon and I am downloading the apps. One of the apps is capable of doing a buzz test. Could that determine if the Dorman gaskets are acting up?

rockdog57 said:
Mine ran shitty at first after injector replacement. I called and they said to do ten full throttle on ramp pulls to bleed all the air out of the system. Said it could idle all day and not get it out. Don’t worry about egt’s unloaded. Not gonna be a problem. Pulling out of Saint George on the long grade that goes for miles to cedar city. Pulling 25,000 lbs I have to drive by the egt gauge on the plus 25 hp tow tune.
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Gothcha. I will try to get a chance to do the 10 WOT pulls, issue is the gas pedal is so non responsive I am a hazard to everyone around. I will get out by some farm land at night and get some pulls in.
 
06h3 said:
I have a OBD2 wifi/bluetooth thing on the way from amazon and I am downloading the apps. One of the apps is capable of doing a buzz test. Could that determine if the Dorman gaskets are acting up?
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Hard to say, I think what was happening with those gaskets was cross talk of the injectors firing two at once etc. a buzz test won't help that much unless you have help and can pin point only the correct injector is firing at the correct time.

06h3 said:
Gothcha. I will try to get a chance to do the 10 WOT pulls, issue is the gas pedal is so non responsive I am a hazard to everyone around. I will get out by some farm land at night and get some pulls in.
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If its that bad it really sounds like something besides air, data will tell you a lot.
 
I did talk to 1023 diesel today and they said pull the chip and see how it drives
 
So I pulled the chip and sure enough the chip was the issue, I did get the throttle pedal back which was nice! Since it was on a factory split shot tune and I have single shot injectors it did run bad. Things were ok until I hit a small hill. I pull up to a stop sign and go up a steep but very short (less then 100 ft) hill and as I slowly get to the top POOF. truck turns off, white smoke from under the hood. The CCV was puffing white smoke, it was tough to pinpoint but the valley area had white smoke and I think by the junction of the turbo and downpipe. :mad3::mad3::mad3:

It did start back up but ran down on power (even more so then normal) it will idle then die. Frustrating, maybe I do want a new truck payment now :rolleyes:

Off topic from the main point but I did do a buzz test and Cyl. 2 is coming back negative. It does buzz all 8 times, after doing the test like 4 times I think it may be buzzing ever so slightly less than the others.

I used FORScan Lite on my iphone when driving at idle the MAP sensor is reading 13 psi (seems off) when I was at the top of the hill it was 40ish) I do have a boost fooler so I didnt think the MAP sensor would even see anything over 22 psi but then again it shows 13 psi at idle.
 
You sure it's not showing atmospheric pressure at idle? That would net you 27 under boost which sounds a little more reasonable than 40.
 
bdkw1 said:
You sure it's not showing atmospheric pressure at idle? That would net you 27 under boost which sounds a little more reasonable than 40.
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Yeah, that is correct. I can’t imagine hurting anything at that level.
 
Why are you running a boost fooler? Take that shit off. Those are obsolete with the current state of tuning, and a good tuner should be using actual MAP for their fueling in their tunes. I am running PHP tunes and can get above 25PSI (GTP38 still, and measured T'ed off the MAP line with an analog ISS Pro gauge) and have never set off the boost over pressure Check engine light or had it go into limp mode. You need to get it on a single shot tune before you can do any real diagnosis though, driving a single shot truck with split shot tuning will fuck shit up (timing way too advanced). It should drive fine with stock '94-'96 tuning. I think your reman PCM might be causing your headache though for reasons you've mentioned. It would be nice to get a PCM that is a known quantity just to eliminate that concern.

All a buzz test will tell you is whether you have a dead injector, a cylinder contribution test and Perdels test is much more relevant, although it is common to have cylinders 3&8 be out of range without there being a problem due to the quirks of the factory CPS. Forscan will run any test you need and be able to pull any sensor data you are interested in and log data. There is no better program to use on a Ford.

As for your gearing concerns, a 7.3L is perfectly happy running at higher RPM, and hopefully you sized your turbo appropriately. With your current gearing, I probably would have stepped it up to an SXE366 with ~1.15 A/R turbine housing, but any SXE is a huge upgrade to the shitty factory GTP38. Personally, I would bite the bullet and re-gear the axles to 4.10 or 4.30 as mentioned previously if you find that you can't tolerate your current cruising RPM. Putting bigger tires on helps, but at the expense of more rotating mass which hurts power and fuel economy. I think auxiliary gearboxes are more hassle than they are worth, and a married NV271 is the way to go for a transfer case. Personally, I don't think you are going to want to be any lower than 2,200RPM while cruising at ~70MPH while loaded.

I would also run the '05+ axle if for nothing else, the better turning radius. All the other parts that go with it will literally bolt on to the '99-'04 frame after drilling a few holes (all the brackets have at least 1 existing hole on the '99-'04 frame to locate them). If you do decide to grab a front end out of a '99-'04 F250/F350, be aware that the SRW front ends are only rated at 4,800LBS GAWR, and pretty much all of the F250 axles (and many F350 axles) from '99 through '01 will be Dana 50s. They started phasing Dana 60s in across the lineup in '02, and by '03 pretty much everything had a Dana 60. I am not sure what the GAWR was for '99-'04 DRW F350 front axles, but I am pretty sure the F450s and F550s had thicker/bigger tubes at a minimum for higher GAWRs.

I know it is frustrating as hell now, but I think once you get your current issues sorted out, this is going to be a killer tow/camping rig.
 
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