Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Hes running behind, its a 7.3
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2000 Ford F-550 Build
- Thread starter 06h3
- Start date
We're almost halfway through June; updates please....
I got home on April 14th after a 1600 mile road trip, the truck ran great when parked so it hasn’t been started or moved since….just taking up room in my garage. Todays June 14th. So 2 months. Glad I don’t have a nice new truck sitting there collecting dust and depreciatingHes running behind, its a 7.3
Honestly, all my work has been on the Hummer since I got home from that trip and before the trip it was on the DRZ400.
I still have valve springs and pushrods to do. Hummer 6l80 swap is almost done then I’ll jump back to it. Sound deadening, sealing the wood, I have a laundry list. Atleast the money is already spent on the valve springs and pushrods.
Alright CDA 455 II I had to do something to give an update. It isn’t much…I installed a new battery terminal because one was original and all jacked up and then I install a Noco battery tender. I need new batteries. I’m currently running it on “repair mode” we will see if it repairs them. If not, I’ll get some interstates at Costco.
I’m just glad I don’t have to pop open the hood anymore to hook up the alligator clips and this covers both batteries, not just one
I’m just glad I don’t have to pop open the hood anymore to hook up the alligator clips and this covers both batteries, not just one
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That's sweet, I have one of their basic chargers and it seems pretty high quality for how cheap it was.
I'd like to wire one of those into the block heater plug with one of those nice outlet deals in the bumper.
I'd like to wire one of those into the block heater plug with one of those nice outlet deals in the bumper.
I’ve been happy with Noco, my brother has one for about 8 months ago and it’s still working well. What you’re mentioning is what I did on my brothers JK, I think it should work out well for you. I plan to do the same on the truck. I know I don’t have a parasitic loss but figured it would be beneficial when this thing will sit for 2+ months at a time.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Did that on the dual batteries for my K2500 and Yukon...
Plugs in the bumper for the block heater and the charger. Makes a clean install.
The other thing I did at the time was redo the battery cable wiring with welding cable. That alone has really made a difference for starting. I had replaced the battery cables on the K2500 about a decade ago, but they were in sorry shape again - and, honestly, not that great to begin with.
Plugs in the bumper for the block heater and the charger. Makes a clean install.
The other thing I did at the time was redo the battery cable wiring with welding cable. That alone has really made a difference for starting. I had replaced the battery cables on the K2500 about a decade ago, but they were in sorry shape again - and, honestly, not that great to begin with.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
I knew that was going to be asked, but had to spend some time looking it up. It's 2/0. Probably overkill, but I have to say that for each truck the starter doesn't bog down at all, cranks fast, and starts better than it ever has since I owned it.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Fyi noco seems lightning sensitive
Lost a handful last year
The battery tender brand maintainers did not fail
Lost a handful last year
The battery tender brand maintainers did not fail
Lightning sensitive?
Battery tender is the OG from what I remember, I have one that’s probably 12 years old and still works great. It’s more for motorsports though, not the heavy duty one
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
I've got a twenty-plus year old Battery Tender for the motorcycle, but I've had a couple people tell me they've had issues with newer ones.
As for lightning sensitive, I've got surge suppressors on both the house and shop electrical panels and don't seem to have the electrical issues that neighbors have with blown electronics.
As for lightning sensitive, I've got surge suppressors on both the house and shop electrical panels and don't seem to have the electrical issues that neighbors have with blown electronics.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Maybe i should have said surge sensitive.
Just throwing it out there, sucked to lose four of the little bastards
My Shops aint got no surge protection
Just throwing it out there, sucked to lose four of the little bastards
My Shops aint got no surge protection
Thank you for letting me know. My garage has surge protected outlets but previous owner added some that aren’t surge protected outlets. I’ll make sure to use the surge protected ones
I went to the junkyard for 1 thing!!! Then I saw these and had to get them. $100 for both, they are 60x18x18. I have been keeping an eye on marketplace for side mounted tool boxes without much luck and new ones are too expensive. I need to straighten out and fix the one but I think it’s a good deal.
The problem is I have about 8 feet from the cab to the tire. I can put one on the pass side in the spot I have my aux tank mounted but then I’m left with 3ft of dead space. I might be able to mount another behind tire? I’d have to measure it. Worst comes to worst I run one and sell the other. I’m just glad to get all that crap out of the bed.
The problem is I have about 8 feet from the cab to the tire. I can put one on the pass side in the spot I have my aux tank mounted but then I’m left with 3ft of dead space. I might be able to mount another behind tire? I’d have to measure it. Worst comes to worst I run one and sell the other. I’m just glad to get all that crap out of the bed.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Could cut one down also, when you look at them, they aren't very complex.
If the bent part stops at 3ft I’ll say it’s meant to be
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Funny because I had bad service when I posted that and the pic wasn't loaded.
I'd say thay would be perfect.
Logged another 1100 miles on the truck getting me just short of 395k.
Since I can’t leave anything alone and always have to strive for more I’ll leave some comments, I have the SXE364.5 with a 73mm turbine wheel. I may consider going to a 68mm turbine wheel to get boost to come on sooner. It’s like a $200 change. It seems the guys who have done this mod are very happy with the results and gives it a more useable power band. While I live at 2500 rpm on the highway the negatives don’t seem outweigh the positives at 2500 rpm plus.
I also am considering a manual lock up switch, usually it’s not a big deal, I’m on the highway in 4th gear locked TC but going to the rubicon off of highway 50 it’s a lot of winding roads. The trans seems to randomly pick I’m going to unlock here, lock at this speed/throttle input but it’s very random, if I have control I think I can make it work much better, the concern is of course locking it or unlocking it during inopportune times and fucking things up so I’m leery.
Lastly, a guy is looking for someone to swap out his compound kit from UDP for a T4 kit. He wants 3k plus trade which I think is steep but compounds are badass! I just worry I take reliability away and over stress the motor.
My t4 kit is now 3k (didn’t pay that but thanks inflation)
He has a KC63 over a billet S475. Kit is like 5k including the big turbo.
On one hand, I should just leave the damn thing be, the point of the truck is cheap, it’s successfully gotten me to and from quite a few 1-2k mile trips and I should be happy with it, but you know how that goes.
Anyways, the truck is probably done for the year, our first baby is due in December so it’s just making sure all vehicles are worked on and done before the baby comes.
I still have those damn pushrods and springs sitting in the truck and the toolboxes to mount.
Since I can’t leave anything alone and always have to strive for more I’ll leave some comments, I have the SXE364.5 with a 73mm turbine wheel. I may consider going to a 68mm turbine wheel to get boost to come on sooner. It’s like a $200 change. It seems the guys who have done this mod are very happy with the results and gives it a more useable power band. While I live at 2500 rpm on the highway the negatives don’t seem outweigh the positives at 2500 rpm plus.
I also am considering a manual lock up switch, usually it’s not a big deal, I’m on the highway in 4th gear locked TC but going to the rubicon off of highway 50 it’s a lot of winding roads. The trans seems to randomly pick I’m going to unlock here, lock at this speed/throttle input but it’s very random, if I have control I think I can make it work much better, the concern is of course locking it or unlocking it during inopportune times and fucking things up so I’m leery.
Lastly, a guy is looking for someone to swap out his compound kit from UDP for a T4 kit. He wants 3k plus trade which I think is steep but compounds are badass! I just worry I take reliability away and over stress the motor.
My t4 kit is now 3k (didn’t pay that but thanks inflation)
He has a KC63 over a billet S475. Kit is like 5k including the big turbo.
On one hand, I should just leave the damn thing be, the point of the truck is cheap, it’s successfully gotten me to and from quite a few 1-2k mile trips and I should be happy with it, but you know how that goes.
Anyways, the truck is probably done for the year, our first baby is due in December so it’s just making sure all vehicles are worked on and done before the baby comes.
I still have those damn pushrods and springs sitting in the truck and the toolboxes to mount.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Best wishes on the Baby, your spot on getting your shit in order, time becomes scarce.
EDIT : I agree, leave it alone and put the time into kid shit your wife gonna want, putting together nursery shit etc, and the H3.
EDIT : I agree, leave it alone and put the time into kid shit your wife gonna want, putting together nursery shit etc, and the H3.
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Thanks, it was advice many having given. I had a 6l80e sitting in the garage for a couple years and did the 6l80 swap in the H3. I plan to link the rear of the H3 before the baby comes as well.
Very true.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Leave it alone
Only thing I'd be looking at is lower highway rpm one way or another.
Only thing I'd be looking at is lower highway rpm one way or another.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
I'm looking to add power to my motor too, but the compound turbo config is real messy on powerstrokes. What specific 7.3l compounds turbos kit is it?
Without a doubt, compounds will perform better for towing than a large single. Set up correctly, they should be the same reliability as a single setup, and the motor will run cooler throughout the range.
Without a doubt, compounds will perform better for towing than a large single. Set up correctly, they should be the same reliability as a single setup, and the motor will run cooler throughout the range.
The ultra add a series. He doesn’t have the SD version on the site yet, just the obs but it’s a stage 2 Kc drop in 63 turbo with a s475.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
I'd be inclined to go with compounds myself. Failing that, a stock or mild upgraded single to keep it simple under the hood. Don't want a big honking turbo when you're trying to get a heavy load going from a stop.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
For mostly highway, I'd think a larger turbo would be best and quick spool wouldn't be as big of a deal.
Then on the low side, you have 4.88s that help you get moving, so I don't really see why you'd want a smaller turbine housing. Compounds would be cool, but just add complexity and I'm not sure would be a huge benefit for something that only gets used a hand full of times per year.
Also maybe there is a reason he wants to get rid of them
Then on the low side, you have 4.88s that help you get moving, so I don't really see why you'd want a smaller turbine housing. Compounds would be cool, but just add complexity and I'm not sure would be a huge benefit for something that only gets used a hand full of times per year.
Also maybe there is a reason he wants to get rid of them
Coming in to update this thread. Since that 1,100 mile trip in September I have probably logged 60 miles on the truck, averaging a solid 13 miles a month. I used it to help move my grandma and that's about it. I think this thing has helped people move about as many times I have used it for wheeling trips.
I had no KOH trip this year due to a 6 week old baby but I have a Moab trip in April and then 2 rubicon trips this summer so I should be logging another 3400 miles on it before the end of summer.
I was in a mad dash to get the Hummer done with linking the rear and it took more work then expected when I had to setup another 3rd member, change up the exhaust, etc. so I didnt get to mount the boxes.
One thing I really I want to look into is an exhaust brake, you will understand why at the end of the post. I do not need all the integration and expense of a BD system where it opens when you touch the gas pedal and crap.
The bundy exhaust brake is cheaper but it literally could be pieced together for like $300
bundyexhaustbrake.com
If you look at his videos it looks like he is literally using a summit racing exhaust cut out valve.
You can’t close it shut entirely without blowing the motor up so he’s either drilling holes in the valve to allow some air through when it closes or only closing it partially.I know there’s no fail safes, if you hit your gas pedal on accident, while engaged, you can do damage where as other units have fail safes built in to prevent that but I was curious if anyone has any actual experience with them.
With that, I need to install my valve springs and chromoly push rods that have been sitting in the truck for 1.5 years now. I would add a backpressure gauge to make sure I do not float a valve.
I have the 910's and will probably follow this reasoning. The exhaust valve and intake valve have the same size.
BUTTT, the truck works, and its easy and simple to just leave the fucker alone but this is a nice safety feature to add.
Lastly, now that we have a child, my wife wants to sell her E350 camper bus because it isnt suited well for sleeping more than 2 people so she wants to list it for sale in April and then I will FINALLY live out the goal of this truck from day 1 which is to pull a camper behind the f550. I have proof of concept from 2020 when we rented a giant camper and hauled the JK. Both those setups were 28-30k gross and the camper we buy will be quite a bit less then that weight so I am confident it will work. I would imagine we would be around 24-25k gross.
I had no KOH trip this year due to a 6 week old baby but I have a Moab trip in April and then 2 rubicon trips this summer so I should be logging another 3400 miles on it before the end of summer.
I was in a mad dash to get the Hummer done with linking the rear and it took more work then expected when I had to setup another 3rd member, change up the exhaust, etc. so I didnt get to mount the boxes.
One thing I really I want to look into is an exhaust brake, you will understand why at the end of the post. I do not need all the integration and expense of a BD system where it opens when you touch the gas pedal and crap.
The bundy exhaust brake is cheaper but it literally could be pieced together for like $300
4" inch Electric Exhaust Brake - Exhaust Brake
No matter the make or model of your diesel truck, our exhaust brake is designed to fit seamlessly and enhance your braking capabilities. Whether you have a heavy-duty pickup, a commercial truck, or any other diesel-powered vehicle, our exhaust brake is ready to deliver unparalleled braking power...
bundyexhaustbrake.com
If you look at his videos it looks like he is literally using a summit racing exhaust cut out valve.
You can’t close it shut entirely without blowing the motor up so he’s either drilling holes in the valve to allow some air through when it closes or only closing it partially.I know there’s no fail safes, if you hit your gas pedal on accident, while engaged, you can do damage where as other units have fail safes built in to prevent that but I was curious if anyone has any actual experience with them.
With that, I need to install my valve springs and chromoly push rods that have been sitting in the truck for 1.5 years now. I would add a backpressure gauge to make sure I do not float a valve.
I have the 910's and will probably follow this reasoning. The exhaust valve and intake valve have the same size.
BUTTT, the truck works, and its easy and simple to just leave the fucker alone but this is a nice safety feature to add.
Lastly, now that we have a child, my wife wants to sell her E350 camper bus because it isnt suited well for sleeping more than 2 people so she wants to list it for sale in April and then I will FINALLY live out the goal of this truck from day 1 which is to pull a camper behind the f550. I have proof of concept from 2020 when we rented a giant camper and hauled the JK. Both those setups were 28-30k gross and the camper we buy will be quite a bit less then that weight so I am confident it will work. I would imagine we would be around 24-25k gross.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
No help on the brake specifically but it will be really easy to integrate into the idle validation switch on the throttle pedal just using some relays.Coming in to update this thread. Since that 1,100 mile trip in September I have probably logged 60 miles on the truck, averaging a solid 13 miles a month. I used it to help move my grandma and that's about it. I think this thing has helped people move about as many times I have used it for wheeling trips.
I had no KOH trip this year due to a 6 week old baby but I have a Moab trip in April and then 2 rubicon trips this summer so I should be logging another 3400 miles on it before the end of summer.
I was in a mad dash to get the Hummer done with linking the rear and it took more work then expected when I had to setup another 3rd member, change up the exhaust, etc. so I didnt get to mount the boxes.
One thing I really I want to look into is an exhaust brake, you will understand why at the end of the post. I do not need all the integration and expense of a BD system where it opens when you touch the gas pedal and crap.
The bundy exhaust brake is cheaper but it literally could be pieced together for like $300
4" inch Electric Exhaust Brake - Exhaust Brake
No matter the make or model of your diesel truck, our exhaust brake is designed to fit seamlessly and enhance your braking capabilities. Whether you have a heavy-duty pickup, a commercial truck, or any other diesel-powered vehicle, our exhaust brake is ready to deliver unparalleled braking power...
If you look at his videos it looks like he is literally using a summit racing exhaust cut out valve.
You can’t close it shut entirely without blowing the motor up so he’s either drilling holes in the valve to allow some air through when it closes or only closing it partially.I know there’s no fail safes, if you hit your gas pedal on accident, while engaged, you can do damage where as other units have fail safes built in to prevent that but I was curious if anyone has any actual experience with them.
With that, I need to install my valve springs and chromoly push rods that have been sitting in the truck for 1.5 years now. I would add a backpressure gauge to make sure I do not float a valve.
I have the 910's and will probably follow this reasoning. The exhaust valve and intake valve have the same size.
BUTTT, the truck works, and its easy and simple to just leave the fucker alone but this is a nice safety feature to add.
Lastly, now that we have a child, my wife wants to sell her E350 camper bus because it isnt suited well for sleeping more than 2 people so she wants to list it for sale in April and then I will FINALLY live out the goal of this truck from day 1 which is to pull a camper behind the f550. I have proof of concept from 2020 when we rented a giant camper and hauled the JK. Both those setups were 28-30k gross and the camper we buy will be quite a bit less then that weight so I am confident it will work. I would imagine we would be around 24-25k gross.
We used to do that with the 10k mods to keep them idling smooth.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
How quick is that to open or shut? Seems like it would be slow, which would make me want to Chuck it in the trash.
I also question that valves ability to open and shut 1000s of times after being packed with soot.
The actual exhaust brakes use something to keep the back pressure at an ideal amount. This not only saves your engine, but gives you better braking at lower rpm.
I don't think the pac brake is that bad of a price for the kit. That's my plan for the 12v at some point.
Edit: You want diy, puy their valve and diy the rest
www.cspracing.com
I also question that valves ability to open and shut 1000s of times after being packed with soot.
The actual exhaust brakes use something to keep the back pressure at an ideal amount. This not only saves your engine, but gives you better braking at lower rpm.
I don't think the pac brake is that bad of a price for the kit. That's my plan for the 12v at some point.
Edit: You want diy, puy their valve and diy the rest
Pacbrake C10216
CSPRacing. The leader in late model GM Performance. We offer tuning, installs, and performance auto parts.
www.cspracing.com
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