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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

YotaAtieToo said:
Is the Grizzly a 4cyl model?

Iirc there is someone who makes bearings or shims to make it work. Maybe it's the other way around.

Lifting the carrier bearing up may work at ride hight, but when the axle drops out, it's hard to imagine it not binding.
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It’s a 4cyl. model.

If it could retro fit the HP 3rd would be sweet. Just not cost effective to change gears (literally) now.
 
Byro said:
Probably should make a driveshaft and quit speculating. I’ve seen Yota joints run at a pretty gnarly angle. I’d also have no problem running a 1.75” or even 1.5” drive shaft for the needed clearance.
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Fair enough, but to me these pics seem pretty telling

Screenshot_20240416_154746_Chrome.jpg


Not saying it's impossible, just don't see why you wouldn't want to make a few tweeks to make it much easier.
 
Byro said:
Probably should make a driveshaft and quit speculating. I’ve seen Yota joints run at a pretty gnarly angle. I’d also have no problem running a 1.75” or even 1.5” drive shaft for the needed clearance.
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This is what I need to do. Wuz-A-zuk told me he has a pile of driveshafts, so working on a deal to buy a buncha stuff off him again. At least I can get something mounted to this pinion and make sure before I do anything drastic at this point.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fair enough, but to me these pics seem pretty telling

Screenshot_20240416_154746_Chrome.jpg


Not saying it's impossible, just don't see why you wouldn't want to make a few tweeks to make it much easier.
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He was 7” longer on the uppers before outboarding them and the lowers were in the same spot. Me personally I don’t like that much difference in links, that’s just going to cause all kinds of wonky geometry. If that’s full droop, or close to it I don’t see an issue lifting the carrier at the chassis just enough to clear the link. Taking triangulation out of the lowers without reworking the belly, crossmember is going to make them even shorter. Probably be in the 10” different range after moving the uppers back in to get the total triangulation.
 
Byro said:
He was 7” longer on the uppers before outboarding them and the lowers were in the same spot. Me personally I don’t like that much difference in links, that’s just going to cause all kinds of wonky geometry. If that’s full droop, or close to it I don’t see an issue lifting the carrier at the chassis just enough to clear the link. Taking triangulation out of the lowers without reworking the belly, crossmember is going to make them even shorter. Probably be in the 10” different range after moving the uppers back in to get the total triangulation.
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I will agree that 7" longer uppers is odd, but what issue will that actually cause? I know it will cause the pinion to rotate up on droop, which could mean fucked caster, but for this application, I'm not sure it will matter, may even be beneficial.

If it really is just lifting the carrier up a little, sure. But in the pics it looks like the driveshaft is wanting to occupy the same place as the link.

If it were me, I'd notch or remove a section of chassis crossmember to make the lowers longer.

Like you said though, just need to get a driveshaft in there, or at least something to mockup and see what fits.

(no idea why it just changed to italics, can't get it to go away :homer:)
 
Random question for any engine guys here: If I did rings, all bearings in a 1.6l 8V can I break that in running propane? Something on a site said not to break in an engine on propane, but I can’t imagine why.

Something YotaAtieToo said about my white Tracker stuck, and I’ve decided to just rob all thenparts from it for the buggy (engine) and red Tracker.
 
If you're robbing everything from the white tracker, ID really consider just using the efi. It's so much easier to deal with on the trail if you run low on fuel or whatever and that 8v is super simple wiring wise, like 8 wires total.

The propane is cool and simple, but I've seen plenty of guys have issues with it as well.

It would also save you a decent amount of money over buying a propane kit.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
If you're robbing everything from the white tracker, ID really consider just using the efi. It's so much easier to deal with on the trail if you run low on fuel or whatever and that 8v is super simple wiring wise, like 8 wires total.

The propane is cool and simple, but I've seen plenty of guys have issues with it as well.

It would also save you a decent amount of money over buying a propane kit.
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I don’t know how much it would save me. A good fuel pump and fuel cell will probably run almost as much as the propane kit.

The other thing is the massive amount of sensors, hoses, and other crap I have to mount to run that motor on EFI. There’s a lot of 90’s vacuum and emission attempts on that engine.
 
FleshEater said:
I don’t know how much it would save me. A good fuel pump and fuel cell will probably run almost as much as the propane kit.

The other thing is the massive amount of sensors, hoses, and other crap I have to mount to run that motor on EFI. There’s a lot of 90’s vacuum and emission attempts on that engine.
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They are actually pretty simple to strip down. Id have myron at zukes offroad do the harness and then not feel bad about leaning on him for knowledge of what all you can eliminate.

I have both, a lp and fuel injected samurai. If using a zuk engine id stick with the zuk efi
 
2big bronco said:
They are actually pretty simple to strip down. Id have myron at zukes offroad do the harness and then not feel bad about leaning on him for knowledge of what all you can eliminate.

I have both, a lp and fuel injected samurai. If using a zuk engine id stick with the zuk efi
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Any chance you have an old thread showing what you could eliminate off the factory EFI set up? I’m talking about the stuff on the firewall and fender wells.
 
Fuel pump is cheap, shit you can still get E2000s at the local parts store for less than $80. I ran one on my celled Cherokee for years.

Greggys buggy runs a pretty basic harness. Once you ditch interior lights, door triggers, turn signals, radio, heat, etc the harness gets pretty thin pretty quick.
 
FleshEater said:
Any chance you have an old thread showing what you could eliminate off the factory EFI set up? I’m talking about the stuff on the firewall and fender wells.
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I dont but I could get some pictures. I took everything off that looked remotely unessisary and plugged all exposed vacuum lines minus the booster. Paid myron for a "buggy harness" with everything extra stripped ou5 except a couple ignition hot wires. I have a 90s ford fuel pump and thats about it.

I have always been scared of fuel injection and thats why my "big samurai" is on lpg. The little one was pretty simple and idiot proof to hook up with the harness all done and labled and there is never any of the fuss associated with lpg. Random hard starts, fucking with and filling tanks, ect.

Its also easier to package a small square 8 gallon fuel cell then an akward tank that needs to be removed every 6-12 hours of wheeling.

Id you were carb id advocate for lpg but to discard a questionably better system seems like going backwards or at least paying a premium for something not necessary and with its own unique issues
 
2big bronco said:
I dont but I could get some pictures. I took everything off that looked remotely unessisary and plugged all exposed vacuum lines minus the booster. Paid myron for a "buggy harness" with everything extra stripped ou5 except a couple ignition hot wires. I have a 90s ford fuel pump and thats about it.

I have always been scared of fuel injection and thats why my "big samurai" is on lpg. The little one was pretty simple and idiot proof to hook up with the harness all done and labled and there is never any of the fuss associated with lpg. Random hard starts, fucking with and filling tanks, ect.

Its also easier to package a small square 8 gallon fuel cell then an akward tank that needs to be removed every 6-12 hours of wheeling.

Id you were carb id advocate for lpg but to discard a questionably better system seems like going backwards or at least paying a premium for something not necessary and with its own unique issues
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I feel like each has it’s benefits and shortcomings.

A few pics would be awesome. Ideally eliminating as much vacuum and crap would be prime. Pretty sure I’ll have to re-work my engine mounts for this, but it will save me from buying 3-4 propane tanks.

Also sent Myron an email. I’ll see what he charges to hack up a harness for me. The more I think about this the more I can find places to hide any of the fuses or small sensors, too. Probably tuck them under the floor pans or something.
 
FleshEater said:
I feel like each has it’s benefits and shortcomings.

A few pics would be awesome. Ideally eliminating as much vacuum and crap would be prime. Pretty sure I’ll have to re-work my engine mounts for this, but it will save me from buying 3-4 propane tanks.

Also sent Myron an email. I’ll see what he charges to hack up a harness for me. The more I think about this the more I can find places to hide any of the fuses or small sensors, too. Probably tuck them under the floor pans or something.
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Ill try to find some pics... or take some tommorow.
 
FleshEater said:
I don’t know how much it would save me. A good fuel pump and fuel cell will probably run almost as much as the propane kit.
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Not even close unless you're trying to spend as much as possible.

When I did my efi swap on my Toyota, I used the stock efi pump and pickup tube in a cell I got for free. There are 8g fuel cells for $80-200 all over the place. I think the guy Or just mount the stock tank back there under a cover if you really want to be cheap.

I like in tank pumps personally.

FleshEater said:
The other thing is the massive amount of sensors, hoses, and other crap I have to mount to run that motor on EFI. There’s a lot of 90’s vacuum and emission attempts on that engine.
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Dude, no, it's almost nothing once you're done stripping it down. I 8v swapped a samurai when I was 19, and stripped the harned myself. It's easy, there is about 8 wires going to the throttle body, mounted an ignitor on the firewall, mounted ecu and ran wires to fuel pump. That's about it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not even close unless you're trying to spend as much as possible.

When I did my efi swap on my Toyota, I used the stock efi pump and pickup tube in a cell I got for free. There are 8g fuel cells for $80-200 all over the place. I think the guy Or just mount the stock tank back there under a cover if you really want to be cheap.

I like in tank pumps personally.



Dude, no, it's almost nothing once you're done stripping it down. I 8v swapped a samurai when I was 19, and stripped the harned myself. It's easy, there is about 8 wires going to the throttle body, mounted an ignitor on the firewall, mounted ecu and ran wires to fuel pump. That's about it.
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I just remembered I bought all the FSM electrical books to this 91’ when I had the burnt fuse block. That should help with the harness.

Definitely going to have to rework the engine mounts. I think there’s like a 1/4” difference in how they bolt up, but not terrible.

Working on the rear links now. Currently a mess.

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FleshEater said:
I just remembered I bought all the FSM electrical books to this 91’ when I had the burnt fuse block. That should help with the harness.
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Wiring is intimidating when you just look at an entire harness or schematic. Once you just look at each wire at a time, it's pretty easy if you are patient. You seem more patient than me, so you should be fine.

Basically look at the harness going to the throttle body and ignition then trace the wires back, pretty my h everything else can go away.

FleshEater said:
Definitely going to have to rework the engine mounts. I think there’s like a 1/4” difference in how they bolt up, but not terrible.

Working on the rear links now. Currently a mess.
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Does that chassis have a longer belly than most or is every just running that much longer wb? The link just seem so short.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Wiring is intimidating when you just look at an entire harness or schematic. Once you just look at each wire at a time, it's pretty easy if you are patient. You seem more patient than me, so you should be fine.

Basically look at the harness going to the throttle body and ignition then trace the wires back, pretty my h everything else can go away.



Does that chassis have a longer belly than most or is every just running that much longer wb? The link just seem so short.
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That’s my front link on there. I can’t remember the belly measurement, but my bolt to bolt on the rear is 34”. So short. 105” wheelbase is short nowadays. Everyone is running 42” tires and probably 110”-115” wheelbase.
 
I'm running a 5 gallon Jaz poly cell and an Airtex E2000 pump on my buggy. Couldn't get an 8-10 gallon cell to fit how we wanted in the chassis.

Think the E2000 was around $75 off the jungle site. I keep a spare in the toolbox just in case it ever goes bad.
 
So, I suck at building, and totally missed that my shocks were hitting the storage bar on the rear. Somehow I also had the rear way higher than the front, so when I dropped it I had 8” of bump. :homer:

Anyways, cut the storage bar out (saving weight :flipoff2:), and re-did my shocks. I badly need 1.5” wheel spacers. :laughing: Should have just found an IFS rear to build. Oh well.

6” of uptravel on all four corners, and I think the rear looks cleaner now.

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2big bronco said:
They are actually pretty simple to strip down. Id have myron at zukes offroad do the harness and then not feel bad about leaning on him for knowledge of what all you can eliminate.

I have both, a lp and fuel injected samurai. If using a zuk engine id stick with the zuk efi
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you will also loose some power going to propane. i have had for 5 years in a 22r. worked fine but really did not come alive until i turbo ed it. pre turbo it was down on power.


not alot down but down.
 
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