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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

Mike Honcho said:
14s? Don't all the cool kids runs 16-18" shocks on buggys:flipoff2:
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Well he can mount them in the middle of the links for double travel :flipoff2:

In reality, 10-12s way underrated for most trail rigs. Most run 14-16s, then have them limited to way less, and most likely running too little up travel for proper spring rate. Although a buggy on air shocks, longer is better to be able to let the winches out when bellied out.


What full hydro kit was it? If it's not set up for Toyota knuckles, they're super easy to space down, or even better, grab some fror keyed arms and drill the holes where you need them.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well he can mount them in the middle of the links for double travel :flipoff2:

In reality, 10-12s way underrated for most trail rigs. Most run 14-16s, then have them limited to way less, and most likely running too little up travel for proper spring rate. Although a buggy on air shocks, longer is better to be able to let the winches out when bellied out.


What full hydro kit was it? If it's not set up for Toyota knuckles, they're super easy to space down, or even better, grab some fror keyed arms and drill the holes where you need them.
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8” “Toyota” kit. Plan is to limit it down to 6”. It has high steer knuckles on it now.

Can’t I just shorten the links from the ram to the knuckles?
 
FleshEater said:
8” “Toyota” kit. Plan is to limit it down to 6”. It has high steer knuckles on it now.
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Typical arms are not 6" throw though, despite everyone saying that.

The nice thing about fror arms is you may be able to actually use 8" of throw, giving more steering power. Plus they're keyed, so you don't just shear steering studs every trip like most Toyota guys :flipoff2:

FleshEater said:
Can’t I just shorten the links from the ram to the knuckles?
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No.... :laughing: the throw has nothing to do with the length of tie rods. :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Typical arms are not 6" throw though, despite everyone saying that.

The nice thing about fror arms is you may be able to actually use 8" of throw, giving more steering power. Plus they're keyed, so you don't just shear steering studs every trip like most Toyota guys :flipoff2:



No.... :laughing: the throw has nothing to do with the length of tie rods. :flipoff2:
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I was going to run a 5th bolt, but those arms are pretty awesome.

I’ve never messed with full hydro before, so it just made sense in my head to shorten the tie rods to limit how far it turns it. Once something is in front of me it makes sense. Until then, I’m just a :homer:.
 
I'm a big fan of the FROR keyed steering arms and upgraded trunnions. Keyed steering arms take all the stress off the knuckle studs. And the upgraded trunnions are much bigger than stock. I've had zero issues with them on my buggy.

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untchabl said:
I'm a big fan of the FROR keyed steering arms and upgraded trunnions. Keyed steering arms take all the stress off the knuckle studs. And the upgraded trunnions are much bigger than stock. I've had zero issues with them on my buggy.

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Those steering arms are massive. They don’t look that big on the site. It’s nice to see a comparison for reference.
 
FleshEater said:
Those steering arms are massive. They don’t look that big on the site. It’s nice to see a comparison for reference.
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Yeah, definitely a major improvement over the stock stuff. I sent my stock knuckles to FROR and had them machine the knuckles since I didn't have a good local machine shop. Think it was $15 per knuckle, plus shipping of course. That was way back in 2018 or 2019 so price may have changed since then.
 
I flexed out the front this past week (that was sketchy) and mounted my front shocks today. I got the shocks out as far on the axle as I could. 12 degrees angled in towards the engine bay, and about 5 degrees back towards the cockpit. No idea how this will fully flex.

Also need to get nitrogen and oil for these air shocks. One came damaged. Needs oil. These also look a little high. Guy who sold them was running a 3RZ so more weight than I have.

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I drooped out the front this weekend. Also keep forgetting that every time I mess with this it throws off my rear end. :homer: But, I got everything squared up for the rear and ordered all my rod end kits for the rear, so it can go from floating in the air on jack stands to a roller. :laughing:

Anyways here’s the drooped pics. I’m super excited to get this out of the shop and flexed out when it’s all linked up. I have to grind off a little more from the driver’s side upper link mount, but other than that it all seems to clear fine.

Ideally, shortening my lower links and clearing a path for the driveshaft would be optimal, but is not possible…or at least I can’t think of way to do it. My upper links are all the way out on the axle truss and any lower is going to make link separation impossible. But, I’m hoping mounting the carrier bearing higher works out running Toyota joints and everything is fine. Anyone see an issue I’m not seeing with that plan?

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the simple solution to me is make the top have more of the triangle by moving the uppers in on the axle and move the mowers out at the frame.

but i am sure there is engine drama if you do that.

i do look forward to updates on this. i love it so far.
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Byro said:
Looks mint bud. Hurry up and get it done and then come finish mine, since you have such zest for after hours fab work. :smokin:
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When it’s done, if you’re not done, I’ll come hangout a few Saturdays and give you hand.
chaplinfj60 said:
the simple solution to me is make the top have more of the triangle by moving the uppers in on the axle and move the mowers out at the frame.

but i am sure there is engine drama if you do that.

i do look forward to updates on this. i love it so far.
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Unfortunately that shortens my lowers and drastically lengthens my uppers. I have all the room in the world, just no way to make the length work.

Ideally a high mounted carrier bearing is best at this point, if it’s doable.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
have you cut the link material yet?
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I did. But I can shorten it. I can also slug and lengthen the uppers. But honestly everything works so unbelievably well right now I almost don’t want to move anything.

I would have to completely re-fabricate my upper link mounts and try to figure out a way to push them out 6” more to shorten them enough to match my lowers.

Pretty sure this is all going to come down to driveshaft magic. :laughing:
 
Wouldn't longer uppers rotate the pinion UP when the axle drops down? Looks like that would help with DS clearance!


It looks great and I look forward to your updates!! keep em coming.
 
can you just rotate the link adjustment on top link about 1/2 inch out on each link bolt. that will get you 1 inch longer and will point the pinion up some.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
can you just rotate the link adjustment on top link about 1/2 inch out on each link bolt. that will get you 1 inch longer and will point the pinion up some.
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Yeah, I’ll spin them out and rotate the pinion up a smidge. I was trying to keep it level.

This will all be more telling when I get driveshaft parts and see how they layout. I did bolt a Tracker driveshaft on and it cleared better than expected. I might just be jumping the gun on this.
 
You're hanging up way to much on equal length links, that's pretty far down the list of priorities. Especially if you can't get a driveshaft to work.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You're hanging up way to much on equal length links, that's pretty far down the list of priorities. Especially if you can't get a driveshaft to work.
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Well I cut the links tight, so I have a lot of room to move the uppers out if needed. It’s always easier to shorten than it is to lengthen anything. Meaning turning them out for adjustment. My first link design had a lot of inches more than the lowers. :laughing:
 
chaplinfj60 said:
can you just rotate the link adjustment on top link about 1/2 inch out on each link bolt. that will get you 1 inch longer and will point the pinion up some.
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Correct but longer upper links would allow the pinion to stay the same at ride height and make it rotate up more when it drops correct chaplinfj60 ?
 
Blase said:
Correct but longer upper links would allow the pinion to stay the same at ride height and make it rotate up more when it drops correct chaplinfj60 ?
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Yes, if I adjust my uppers longer the pinion will rotate up as it droops. I was trying to maintain as level as possible. I might still be able to maintain that. Looking at carrier bearings and I might have a decent amount of options to clear that lower link with zero issues.
 
i am more impressed on how well you keep it clean i can not do that. the more i work on something the more the tools come out to stay. but you are sharing a space too. so get that.
 
FleshEater said:
Yes, if I adjust my uppers longer the pinion will rotate up as it droops. I was trying to maintain as level as possible. I might still be able to maintain that. Looking at carrier bearings and I might have a decent amount of options to clear that lower link with zero issues.
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I think your thought would be good if this were more of a go fast rig to maintain Castor. For a pure crawler, I'd rather have the pinion rotate up to keep the u joints from binding.

As much as it would suck to spend the money, a high pinion diff would really help your driveshaft out.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I think your thought would be good if this were more of a go fast rig to maintain Castor. For a pure crawler, I'd rather have the pinion rotate up to keep the u joints from binding.

As much as it would suck to spend the money, a high pinion diff would really help your driveshaft out.
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Well, I found one, but my Grizzly won’t swap into it, so I would have to buy another locker. I just can’t justify that much money and that much more work to just save a little inconvenience. I have about 12” to play with on my chassis side between the lower belly and the floor bar. So I can elevate my carrier bearing quite a bit.

If this high pinion FJ80 3rd I found came with a locker, I’d be swapping that in. But there is no way I’ll recoup all that cost selling it used.
 
FleshEater said:
Well, I found one, but my Grizzly won’t swap into it, so I would have to buy another locker. I just can’t justify that much money and that much more work to just save a little inconvenience. I have about 12” to play with on my chassis side between the lower belly and the floor bar. So I can elevate my carrier bearing quite a bit.

If this high pinion FJ80 3rd I found came with a locker, I’d be swapping that in. But there is no way I’ll recoup all that cost selling it used.
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Is the Grizzly a 4cyl model?

Iirc there is someone who makes bearings or shims to make it work. Maybe it's the other way around.

Lifting the carrier bearing up may work at ride hight, but when the axle drops out, it's hard to imagine it not binding.
 
I could swear on the old Zuk Gear Installs page that he had fitted 4cyl lockers and/ or gears to V6/hi-pinion thirds.
 
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