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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

Just ordered up a bunch of 1/4” hole trick tabs from Midnight 4x4. Still hoping to find a good deal on aluminum on Marketplace. Might just grab some 1/16” aluminum diamond plate a guy is selling locally. Probably heavier than I need, but the grip will be nice.

Once I get the floor in I can focus on pedals/steering wheel location. Then I want to get the coolant and fuel mounted and chop up this harness.
 
FleshEater said:
Just ordered up a bunch of 1/4” hole trick tabs from Midnight 4x4. Still hoping to find a good deal on aluminum on Marketplace. Might just grab some 1/16” aluminum diamond plate a guy is selling locally. Probably heavier than I need, but the grip will be nice.

Once I get the floor in I can focus on pedals/steering wheel location. Then I want to get the coolant and fuel mounted and chop up this harness.
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Know anywhere to get old street signs? It's actually decent to work with and about the right thickness for panels.

My work got a bunch from the county when they switched over to reflective signs years ago. Guess they had a few dump trucks worth.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Know anywhere to get old street signs? It's actually decent to work with and about the right thickness for panels.

My work got a bunch from the county when they switched over to reflective signs years ago. Guess they had a few dump trucks worth.
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I’ll keep an eye out and ask around. Heck, maybe I’ll just call the township.
 
Is aluminum expensive up there or what? One sheet should do the whole rig and cost less than 100 bucks.
 
FleshEater said:
What’s your span? Seems a little thin?
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Used for skin panels and yes it is a little too flimsy.
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Order grip tape from Amazon for the floors. It's the stuff they use on skateboards, works great on my aluminum floors.
 
Started supporting the rear shock mounts today. All I got done as the wife made plans for today, which consists of sitting in a pool, drinking beer, and eating cold food later. :smokin:

This will get topped with 1/8” or 3/16” plate. I’m trying to get both sides as close as I can to detract from the out of square rear tubing. :homer:

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So, I’m onto looking into fuel cells. Do you guys think I should just pull all of my factory Suzuki fuel pumps (I think I have 4 of them) measure them out (depth) and buy based on that? Looks like these should fit the 6 bolt lay out of most fuel cells.

Even Chinese made aftermarket OEM fuel pumps are over $200. Anything USA made is reaching into the $500+ territory. I’ve never messed with fuel cells, so digging into reading now with pennsylvaniaboy’s thread in Gen4x4.
 
I've got a 5 gallon Jaz poly tank that gravity feeds to a E2000 inline pump. I order the Airtex brand pumps online, think they're $60 or $80. And I keep a spare pump just in case. But the E2000 pumps are usually in stock at the parts store.

Built a filler neck and remote fill on the driver side to make it easier to refuel. The natural color cell makes it easy to see the fuel level. The 5 gallon vertical cell also doesn't have or need any foam inside, so no issues with the foam coming apart and clogging up the filter or pump.

I have a filter before the pump and another after the pump. First one is a higher micron, just to keep junk from getting in the pump. Second one is finer micron to prevent trash getting in the injectors.

I can ride all day at Harlan and still have a gallon or so left.

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What about those Bosch 044 pumps everyone uses? Aren’t they pretty cheap? Or does it have to be an in-tank pump?
 
untchabl said:
I've got a 5 gallon Jaz poly tank that gravity feeds to a E2000 inline pump. I order the Airtex brand pumps online, think they're $60 or $80. And I keep a spare pump just in case. But the E2000 pumps are usually in stock at the parts store.

Built a filler neck and remote fill on the driver side to make it easier to refuel. The natural color cell makes it easy to see the fuel level. The 5 gallon vertical cell also doesn't have or need any foam inside, so no issues with the foam coming apart and clogging up the filter or pump.

I have a filter before the pump and another after the pump. First one is a higher micron, just to keep junk from getting in the pump. Second one is finer micron to prevent trash getting in the injectors.

I can ride all day at Harlan and still have a gallon or so left.

IMG_20210701_015041.jpg
IMG_20210701_015044.jpg
IMG_20210701_015046.jpg

IMG_20210923_183606.jpg
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Man, this has me really re-thinking my placement. I like that it’s centered, I would just have to work around my cooling…

SKULLYOTA said:
What about those Bosch 044 pumps everyone uses? Aren’t they pretty cheap? Or does it have to be an in-tank pump?
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From what I’m gathering from the thread I mentioned is everyone likes OEM stuff for readily available parts replacement. Something else about gravity feed being okay, but not the best thing ever.
 
I personally like the oem pump and pick up. On everything but GM vehicles :flipoff2: they go 100s of thousands of miles without issues.

Over the years I've seen so many guys have issues with inline fuel pumps on their rigs, I just don't like them. Although it's probably no different than air lockers where you only know they're running one when they have an issue. :laughing: I'm sure there are plenty that work fine, I just like the oem stuff.

If I did an in line, I'd be tempted to do the dual pumps plumbed in next to each other and be able to switch over if one is acting up. Pretty overkill for a trail rig, but I like overkill
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I personally like the oem pump and pick up. On everything but GM vehicles :flipoff2: they go 100s of thousands of miles without issues.

Over the years I've seen so many guys have issues with inline fuel pumps on their rigs, I just don't like them. Although it's probably no different than air lockers where you only know they're running one when they have an issue. :laughing: I'm sure there are plenty that work fine, I just like the oem stuff.

If I did an in line, I'd be tempted to do the dual pumps plumbed in next to each other and be able to switch over if one is acting up. Pretty overkill for a trail rig, but I like overkill
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Well, I think I’m going to go with the Low Range lock ring and run a 2005ish Suburban 5.3l fuel pump, then regulate it down to 35 psi for the 1.6l.

My Chevy fuel pumps lasted over 100k miles. The tops of the pumps rusted out. Never failed, mechanically.
 
When ever you are laying out the back of your buggy keep visibility in mind. What I mean is fuel cell right in the middle will block your view of the rear diff and the passenger rear tire if you are looking backwards over your right shoulder.
Where as if you put the fuel cell WAY at the back of the chassis or directly behind the drivers seat you can still see both of those and likely a large part of the rear drive shaft. Visibility is HUGE IMO and I normally try to lay out a buggy with that in mind.
Just my thoughts on placement.
 
Blase said:
When ever you are laying out the back of your buggy keep visibility in mind. What I mean is fuel cell right in the middle will block your view of the rear diff and the passenger rear tire if you are looking backwards over your right shoulder.
Where as if you put the fuel cell WAY at the back of the chassis or directly behind the drivers seat you can still see both of those and likely a large part of the rear drive shaft. Visibility is HUGE IMO and I normally try to lay out a buggy with that in mind.
Just my thoughts on placement.
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I keep visibility in mind through the whole build. It’s the whole benefit of a buggy.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Is aluminum expensive up there or what? One sheet should do the whole rig and cost less than 100 bucks.
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Okay, buy me aluminum and ship it up here. :flipoff2:

Just called my metal supplier.

4’x4’ .120” for the roof is $160.00.
4’x8’ .090” for the side/floor is $195.00.
 
FleshEater said:
Okay, buy me aluminum and ship it up here. :flipoff2:

Just called my metal supplier.

4’x4’ .120” for the roof is $160.00.
4’x8’ .090” for the side/floor is $195.00.
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also. if you can wait on aluminum it maybe worth checking into a someone who makes some sort of enclosed trailer in your area. i get all my aluminum from a buddy who works at one. if they bend a piece they toss to scrap and he buys it for scrap piece and crazy cheap. for instance i got what started out as full 4x8 sheets but they had a bend in the wrong edge so now tehy are 3'7" by 8 foot. but they cant use it. its just an idea.
 
How are you going to fill it? :laughing:

Also, a big benefit to the oem pump is running the right one for the engine, adding a regulator to the mix may just make it unreliable.

The depth looks way off too.

If you want that style tank, just go for the e1000 or whatever pump that was mentioned and use the tank like it was intended.
 
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