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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

Fawk it, just running the same set up untuchable posted. I can’t keep the cell small enough for an in tank pump.
 
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untchabl said:
I've got a 5 gallon Jaz poly tank that gravity feeds to a E2000 inline pump. I order the Airtex brand pumps online, think they're $60 or $80. And I keep a spare pump just in case. But the E2000 pumps are usually in stock at the parts store.

Built a filler neck and remote fill on the driver side to make it easier to refuel. The natural color cell makes it easy to see the fuel level. The 5 gallon vertical cell also doesn't have or need any foam inside, so no issues with the foam coming apart and clogging up the filter or pump.

I have a filter before the pump and another after the pump. First one is a higher micron, just to keep junk from getting in the pump. Second one is finer micron to prevent trash getting in the injectors.

I can ride all day at Harlan and still have a gallon or so left.

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How did Marsfab run the vent line on this?

I just read a Billavista article and it mentioned the FATS method of venting, which is a lot of line to run.

Also, I assume the return line off the engine just runs to one of the bottom ports?

I am way out of my league with this whole build. Never built anything with a fuel cell and never designed my own line runs.
 
I have the same tank. The return line runs to the top of the tank so there is no restriction. Run the vent up above the tank and then all the way below the tank. Gravity feed to a filter (I use clear low pressure) then to a e2000 pump. Some run a filter after the pump. I do not on either of my cars. Both of my airtech e2000 pumps are over 10 years
 
Tydes said:
I have the same tank. The return line runs to the top of the tank so there is no restriction. Run the vent up above the tank and then all the way below the tank. Gravity feed to a filter (I use clear low pressure) then to a e2000 pump. Some run a filter after the pump. I do not on either of my cars. Both of my airtech e2000 pumps are over 10 years
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You have the same tank as the Marsfab build or the black one I posted?

So your return and your vent are “T” at the top of the tank?

EDIT: I deleted the previous post of mine as it’s just going to create confusion in this.
 
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I do need to change my vents, I bought roll over vents that are supposed to act as a check valve, but when they're on a slight side hill they will just leak. You can hear them clicking trying to stop the fuel. Maybe I shouldn't have 2?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I do need to change my vents, I bought roll over vents that are supposed to act as a check valve, but when they're on a slight side hill they will just leak. You can hear them clicking trying to stop the fuel. Maybe I shouldn't have 2?
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roll over valve plus do a square around the tank. FATS busted knuckle did a great vid on this.
 
matter of fact i just went around my tank on the top and vented it down to the ground and not up and i dont get any gas leaking out. i can get a vid or what ever tonight if you like too.
 
FleshEater said:
How did Marsfab run the vent line on this?

I just read a Billavista article and it mentioned the FATS method of venting, which is a lot of line to run.

Also, I assume the return line off the engine just runs to one of the bottom ports?

I am way out of my league with this whole build. Never built anything with a fuel cell and never designed my own line runs.
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He added a second port on the top of the cell. One is for the fuel return and the other is the vent. Just left a cap on the unused fitting on the bottom of the cell.

The vent is a barb fitting on the cell that has a short section of soft fuel hose that connects to a piece of aluminum tubing. The aluminum tubing runs up the passenger B pillar, across the roof tube and down the driver B pillar down to a breather filter.

I never have any fuel run out of the vent line. Haven't rolled over yet but I'm sure it will work fine in that situation too.

This is the best picture I have right now that shows it. I'll try to remember to take a better picture this afternoon when I get back to the shop.

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Adding fitting to that tank would be very easy, it's just a bulkhead and the fill hole is big enough to get you hand in.

I like that hard line breather, may have to steal that.
 
Friday after work I ran to the metal supplier and grabbed a total of 4’x11’ (4’x3’ was a drop piece) .063” aluminum. Also grabbed some flat bar and round bar for the pedals. $222 and change, not terrible.

Started last night on a door panel. Then finished both door panels, the floor, and the roof today. I couldn’t keep that much aluminum safe in my shop or shed, so had to knock it out.

Next I’m working on the pedals, and steering wheel/orbital location. Those are things that kind of have to go in without any work around. Trying to get everything done that has a dedicated home before plumbing anything.

Luckily the rear has plenty of space for everything. These pedals and orbital are going to be tight.

It definitely feels good to be sitting in this again. :smokin:

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It has occurred to me this morning that my factory Tracker pedal assembly and power brake set up is not going to work.

Which really sucks…because I have no idea how I’m going to maintain my cable operated clutch with a manual brake set up. There just isn’t enough room to package it all. I called Wilwood a while ago and asked about their pedal assemblies, but it’s all for hydraulic clutches.

I might have to get that hydraulic bell housing off you YotaAtieToo
 
Covecrawler said:
You should be able to get a universal style pull type hydraulic slave cylinder to work.

www.summitracing.com

Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-1333 Wilwood Slave Cylinders | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Wilwood Slave Cylinders with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Clutch Slave Cylinders at Summit Racing.
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That's all it really is anyway. I searched it out because it was "the best" and once I had in my hands I realized it wasn't all that different from a normal cable clutch set up.
 
I called Wilwood yesterday and asked a lot of questions about their pedals and masters. Erik at Wilwood got me set up with part numbers and was extremely helpful. Also going to fabricate a mount up to run the above slave cylinder and turn this into a hydraulic clutch over cable.

Since I’m not building out the front of the buggy the hydraulic clutch will be much easier to route lines for. There is nothing to mount a clutch cable to out front and was going to be in the way of my steering lines anyways.

So, pretty sure brakes are planned out and interior steering components are as well. This went from free to $1,000 real quick. :laughing:
 
More small bits of headway tonight. Have to fabricate a bolt on system for the top rubber mount.

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YotaAtieToo said:
I mean, where ever you want really.

You plan to put a winch on the front?

I guess you could run a 3 way switch to reverse the fan when it's cold :laughing:
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Winch on front and rear mounted to the axles.

Also going to try and mount two small fans in the roof to blow down on us while wheeling. Speaker in the rear above the radiator should drown out the fan.

My Wolverine fan was so loud I could hear it from the cab every time it ran. No way to get away from noise in an open buggy.
 
FleshEater said:
Winch on front and rear mounted to the axles.

Also going to try and mount two small fans in the roof to blow down on us while wheeling. Speaker in the rear above the radiator should drown out the fan.

My Wolverine fan was so loud I could hear it from the cab every time it ran. No way to get away from noise in an open buggy.
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Maybe, but having the fan more like 2" away helps.

Either way, none of that helps with 190* right behind your elbow
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Maybe, but having the fan more like 2" away helps.

Either way, none of that helps with 190* right behind your elbow
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Plenty of guys running rear mounted rads…so it must be livable. I don’t want to build out the front of this, so I don’t have a whole lot of options.
 
FleshEater said:
Plenty of guys running rear mounted rads…so it must be livable. I don’t want to build out the front of this, so I don’t have a whole lot of options.
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No shit, but you don't have to put it 1" away from your seat.

Just saying you might want to think about it a little bit before you spend a ton of time mounting, plumbing and wiring it.
 
Byro offered up an idea of moving it to the side. Now I’m thinking of a way to keep the center clear and run a rearview mirror to see the diff.

But I’m also thinking an aluminum heat shield might help deflect heat, lightweight, and it keeps it tight to keep it safe from sticks, rocks, anything.
 
FleshEater said:
Byro offered up an idea of moving it to the side. Now I’m thinking of a way to keep the center clear and run a rearview mirror to see the diff.

But I’m also thinking an aluminum heat shield might help deflect heat, lightweight, and it keeps it tight to keep it safe from sticks, rocks, anything.
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Hard to tell by just pics, but you could try mounting it to facing sideways. Or at an angle.

Just also be weary of the heat blowing towards the fuel cell also.
 
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