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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

So, if anyone wants to know all of this, here’s what I’ve found.

On my used Trail Gear full hydro kit it came with a 4 7/8” V belt pulley on the pump for a Toyota set up. The Geo Tracker 8V crank pulley is a 4 rib serpentine, The Trail Gear pump, Power Flow, or whatever they call it, has a shaft diameter of .665”.

Trail Gear wants like $75 for their 5 rib serpentine pulleys, but I figured there had to be a cheaper factory option. Summit Racing really helped find this information.

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Just grabbed the first model and jumped over to Rock Auto.

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So, this is a way cheaper option to run my current crank pulley for the 8V 1.6l. :smokin:
 
Fuckin told you so again :flipoff2:

Really though, it's crazy how universal a lot of the saginaw stuff is.

I was surprised I couldn't find the pulley application (ie 96 jeep Cherokee) to put a tc pump on an 8v. Seems like it is a pretty common swap.

You have a simple pulley puller for that type of pulley?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fuckin told you so again :flipoff2:

Really though, it's crazy how universal a lot of the saginaw stuff is.

I was surprised I couldn't find the pulley application (ie 96 jeep Cherokee) to put a tc pump on an 8v. Seems like it is a pretty common swap.

You have a simple pulley puller for that type of pulley?
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You told me look for a Jeep. :flipoff2: Finding the 4 7/8” pulley with 4 rib was the challenge. There’s 29 applications for that pulley alone and like 18 different TC pulleys.

I do have a pulley puller and installer. My dad works for a local parts store so got it dirt cheap.

As for the thread:

Got my wiring harness all pulled and the motor is almost ready to come out. The white Tracker is officially dead. When I had that wiring issue I had to wire up a bunch of random shit, which is going to make this a wee bit more difficult using Myron’s YouTube video.

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FleshEater said:
You told me look for a Jeep. :flipoff2: Finding the 4 7/8” pulley with 4 rib was the challenge. There’s 29 applications for that pulley alone and like 18 different TC pulleys.
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Sebring is basically a jeep :flipoff2:

Glad you found a cheap alternative though.

FleshEater said:
I do have a pulley puller and installer. My dad works for a local parts store so got it dirt cheap.
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Well, heads up, you might have to play with installation depth. My tc pump on my 22re is way more shallow than I'd like.

FleshEater said:
As for the thread:

Got my wiring harness all pulled and the motor is almost ready to come out. The white Tracker is officially dead. When I had that wiring issue I had to wire up a bunch of random shit, which is going to make this a wee bit more difficult using Myron’s YouTube video.
Click to expand...

Fwiw, ammo cans make for a good ecu compartment.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Sebring is basically a jeep :flipoff2:

Glad you found a cheap alternative though.



Well, heads up, you might have to play with installation depth. My tc pump on my 22re is way more shallow than I'd like.



Fwiw, ammo cans make for a good ecu compartment.
Click to expand...

I’m honestly kicking around hiding most of the wiring in my ceiling. It fits, it’s out of the way, and it’s weatherproof.
 
2big bronco said:
Yep, theres the computer, ignition, and a couple dangly relay things. No reason to lengthen any wires to put anything further away then necessary
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When I ripped the wiring out of the donor, I cut the whole harness in half because I didn't want to pull the dash(I was 19, who knows:laughing:) , so since I had to splice everything back together, I shortened the main harness to the ecu so I could just mount it in the glove box area.
 
2big bronco said:
Yep, theres the computer, ignition, and a couple dangly relay things. No reason to lengthen any wires to put anything further away then necessary
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The computer not being water proof is an issue. Plus, no dash in this buggy. So every wire will be getting lengthened.

Not sure if you’ve ever taken a wheeling trip out east, but I have spent whole days in pouring down rain. It sucks, but when you haul something 8-9 hours you want to wheel. Not wait for the rain to stop.
 
FleshEater said:
It’s going above the passenger seat in the roof.
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That's an interesting idea, never seen that even once. I'd think an ammo can in the glove box area would be just fine.

We may not get as much rain during wheeling here, but we have popular trails with deep creek crossings.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's an interesting idea, never seen that even once. I'd think an ammo can in the glove box area would be just fine.

We may not get as much rain during wheeling here, but we have popular trails with deep creek crossings.
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I mean, nothing else goes between the bars and roof…so why not?

I might be able to slip something waterproof under a seat. But the “glove box” area is right on the drip edge of the roof. So it would need waterproofed and placed in a way that it doesn’t just splash water all over the inside.
 
FleshEater said:
I mean, nothing else goes between the bars and roof…so why not?

I might be able to slip something waterproof under a seat. But the “glove box” area is right on the drip edge of the roof. So it would need waterproofed and placed in a way that it doesn’t just splash water all over the inside.
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You are gonna skin both sides of the roof??
 
Byro said:
You are gonna skin both sides of the roof??
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I was only going to do the top and run a slightly thicker material…just in case of a roll over. All my switches and electrical are going above and in front if me so I can reach it strapped in.

I’m also trying to keep all of this as easy to work on as possible. :laughing:
 
FleshEater said:
I mean, nothing else goes between the bars and roof…so why not?
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Just not sure I like the idea of extending and running all those (most important) wires up to the roof. Could get hooked by a branch or? You could make some sort of tube to use as a conduit, but then you run the risk of wire chaffing where you can't see it?

Then you're mounting it directly to the roof, so if, when you end up on the lid, you have a good chance of smacking the panel the ecu is mounted to on a rock, which will kill the ecu. Even just a decent flop might not be good. Rubber mounting may help, but you're only working with 1.5" space.

How you going to water proof it in that small of a space? It will be getting blasted with water on the trailer. Actually, any rain storm on the trailer at 65 will be 10x's worse than any down pour on the trail anyway.

FleshEater said:
I might be able to slip something waterproof under a seat. But the “glove box” area is right on the drip edge of the roof. So it would need waterproofed and placed in a way that it doesn’t just splash water all over the inside.
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For one, build a gutter into the leading edge of your roof, most guys just bend a ~120* or so lip on the front. You'll appreciate it the next time you're sitting there waiting for the guy in front of you and you're not getting a mini waterfall in your lap :laughing:

Also, an ammo can is sealed, that's the point.... The only issue would obviously be sealing the hole for the harness to come in, I always figured just go in on the bottom and use a rubber grommit, should work for everything but being submerged for a long time. I had my ARB compressor mounted inside one that was in the bed of my last rig.

There is obviously other waterproof containers to choose from. Maybe one of the HF pelican wannabes?
 
I actually might like these more than the ammo can, just cut the foam to shape and boom, shock resistance and waterproof.

Not sure if a small would work or bump to a medium, but they're super cheap.

www.harborfreight.com

2800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Medium, Black

Amazing deals on this 2800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Medium at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
I’m just slit balling here. All if this could change depending on space and what I need/want. The ECU wasn’t going to be mounted directly to the roof. There’s enough room to gap it.

But you make a solid point about towing that I didn’t think about.

I’ll figure something out, somewhere on the buggy. Just pretty certain I’ll be extending wires. They’re also all getting wrapped in abrasion resistant Painless tape, so no worry of chaffing. :smokin:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The stock harness is pretty long, I'd avoid lengthening.
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If I’m confident I can weather proof everything enough and package it small enough I’ll mount it all above the transmission. Like so. Plan would be a couple gauges, ECU, and marine grade fuse block there. Relays could go inside a can or something with the ECU.

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So, tonight I set the front shocks at 15 degrees in and the rear around 17.5 degrees in. I think the front needs to go in a little more? I don’t know. Lost a bit of travel with that, and I don’t know if I have too much oil in these or what, but I can’t get the shocks to fully hit bump. About 1.5” showing.

But this better overall.

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Looks a lot better, but your upper tabs are getting pretty long. Looks like on the front, you could just mount off that front horizontal tube.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Looks a lot better, but your upper tabs are getting pretty long. Looks like on the front, you could just mount off that front horizontal tube.
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Can I turn the top of the shock to mount it? If so that would definitely work and give me more options. I just didn’t know if the top would be fine like that.
 
FleshEater said:
Can I turn the top of the shock to mount it? If so that would definitely work and give me more options. I just didn’t know if the top would be fine like that.
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Sure if your shock joints don't bind, but I was thinking something more along the lines of this:
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With the volume displacement on air shocks, it's going to be tough to get 100% of the travel with no wieght in there. Even once it's fully assembled with pressure, youay not use the last 1/2-3/4" of shaft unless you sky it off a jump.




FleshEater said:
Can I turn the top of the shock to mount it? If so that would definitely work and give me more options. I just didn’t know if the top would be fine like that.
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Not sure I follow

Just plan to somehow brace them better before finalizing anything. Long tabs like that are good at ripping off on a hard hit.

On the front maybe you could get some 1/2" ID tube and run it through or under the cross member tube.

On the rear, either something bracing up to the C pillar or a cross member that the mount under.
 
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