1980 F350 Farm Truck Re-Build

[Provience]

alright, this is from the 1985 wiring diagram. Not shown on the next page is where the single wire lead #16 R-LG runs to the + side of the coil. sooo....if I can find a splice 216 or a BR-PK wire up near the firewall, I can check there for 12v+. Since i'm not using a throttle actuator, if I can't find power there, then i'll just borrow power from the starter solenoid for the coil.

a couple key differences on the 1985, there is NOT a clutch safety switch on the 1980 as well as no EEC for emissions, the 80 is lots more temp switches and vacuum lines it seems.

 

[Provience]

alright, proof of spark during cranking. had to get the wife to help out so that I could see and hold key to START.



Pocked and prodded with the multimeter with the starter unhooked at first, everything seems to be doing stuff. Went ahead and filled up the fuel bowl and squirted some fuel down into the intake. Had the wife help again by standing up front to see if the pump was pumping into the filter and if things were doing stuff. Took just a little bit of fiddling with the choke and it actually popped off okay



Fuel was bubbling out of the fuel float level adjustment. adjusting seemed to be moving, decided to pop the bowl half off and see if something was stuck or what all was going on. This was running reasonably poorly due to a host of issues and then sat on the shelf for a couple years.

4 bolts that were less than hand tight and the fuel inlet and it popped apart with gentle taps

It was always a slim chance that this gasket would survive, it decided to mostly tear in half.

Overall the bowl was pretty clean and the accelerator pump works and pumps, so that's neat. This is after spraying it down and wiping it out.

and the inside view looks pretty decent

photo evidence it's got # 73 main jet currently. Did pick up weld in O2 bung for the exhaust, going to see about getting that cut this weekend or so to do some wideband tuning

turns out the needle and seat come out the top and there is no reason to pop the bowl off cleaned it up and verified it is operating smooth and easy

plugged it all back together and got it started one more time, ran briefly until the bowl was out of fuel again. Wife's theory is that the fuel line between the filter and the carb is too severely kinked. She's probably correct. Should be much warmer than 30* tomorrow, going to make a new line then and try again.

picked up some clamps to make quick and dirty exhaust hangers as well, then it will be time to see if i can dial in tuning, get fuel into the tanks and see what happens. Might work on some of the accessory wiring

 

[Provience]

Fuel lines was the goal for today, beings the tanks are now out and ready to go back in once the sending unit lock rings show up.
....

wanted to put the cheap replaceable filter somewhere that was both easy to see and easy to replace. Between the holley and the distributor seemed like the thing. Had to make a bit of a wonky bend to resolve the angles, you can see the crimp that went too tight when manipulating by hand near the filter

Found it, might have been funny on January first, but whose laughing now?



me again, i'm also laughing about it now

 

[M92PV4U]

I'm pretty sure that I pointed out that kink as a problem at the time

 

[Provience]

I'm pretty sure that I pointed out that kink as a problem at the time

There's some key elements I'm not going to be real surprised if they turn into issues.

Wife goes "it kind of sounds funny" well yeah, never did fix all the exhaust studs and the exhaust is still just mostly together. That buys me some time for noise

 

[M92PV4U]

I've packed fine sand in lines to help bend them without kinking.

 

[Provience]

I've packed fine sand in lines to help bend them without kinking.

I've tried that a couple times with various sizes and never had much success compared to the hassle. This one was a "eh, just need a little more" so I hand grabbed it and it gave, opened it back up and it came back some.

Current theory is some is not enough, not really anything else in there for it

 

[Levigarrett76]

Just run soft line there
Or reroute to pass side of dizzy

 

[Provience]

Just run soft line there
Or reroute to pass side of dizzy

Trying to avoid a soft line, going to finish this cup of coffee and go look at it for a bit until some number of turns looks right

 

[Provience]

Still a little cold this morning, should warm up once the sun gets overhead. guess this filter needed replaced anyways, had about 30 second of use

made the loop bigger and am still up off the valve cover

this is all i've got left from my roll of 5/16". wasn't enough to go around to the back and put the loop behind the carb.

and all that to have no real change. looked for my timing light, can't find it. not sure if it died or got lost in the move and I can't remember where I saw it last. looked at the carb and this screw is real far back from whatever it lands on, spring is not set to spring anything, might need some hokey-ing with. might just need to be bottle fed for a little bit yet to stay running before it will want to idle

 

[M92PV4U]

looked at the carb and this screw is real far back from whatever it lands on

I'm pretty sure that it lands on this.

 

[Provience]

Indeed it does, they move together as well. the whatever it lands on comment was more a note that i'm not real sure what it actually actuates or why it does anything. moving the choke still moves up the throttle for choke high idle and the curb idle is adjusted much lower.

Holley seems to think the landing pad needs to come up, which means i think i'm going to go pop it off the manifold and see what there is to see. if nothing else, it's in the wrong position

 

[Provience]

 

[M92PV4U]

ran briefly until the bowl was out of fuel again

I missed this before, but do you know how to set the float?

 

[Provience]

Couldn't find the timing light or my analog voltmetet/tach, twisted dist until it was close enough. Best I could get from twisting the knobs on the carb was 18-18.5 inches and 600 rpm idle.

Eventually it will be worth investigating the dash issues, until then it's a decent runner. Wire the exhaust put of the way so I can m9ve it in the yard and finish that up

 

[Provience]

I missed this before, but do you know how to set the float?

I do now first holley in 20 years and the first I've spent any time with. What I thought was the lock was the adjust nut and the screw is the lock.

 

[Provience]

alright, let's see what other pictures i've got

Got the carburetor popped off, this thing does nothing and isn't linked to anything. it can stay floppy, other option would be to remove it, but that seems excessive

kind of neat while looking over the thing, the idle screw wasn't actually touching anything. kind of hard to tell in this picture, but there was some gap there when fully off the choke

Played around and reset that so that it would expose the long slot idle bleeds but not the mains just above the throttle blades. Also pulled out the idle mix screws and foamed some goo through those as well

plopped it back on, used the autogage tach, just kind of twisted the wires and stuffed them into places. Not sure why the dash tach isn't working today, other than a couple of pulses, it didn't register at all. Video a couple posts up in #253, but it is running smooth and idling well. didn't take much twisting beyond the 1-1/2 turns from bottomed for the idle screws. 600 rpm is what the valve cover asked for, 18" of vacuum is what I could get up there. I also went ahead and got fresh gas and dumped it into the rear tank, for some magic reason the tank selector solenoid didn't want to stay energized to pull from the front tank

here is a better picture of the crease I hammered into my straight length. The more I look at it the more i'm tempted to replace it with a real bent piece and getting into a better spot. just a little bit bummed I missed that angle by so much when I did the 2 into 1

Finally cut and hammered this thing off and cleaned up the rest of the factory mounts off the scrap pipe

and used some 5/16" rod with a couple bent ends to make a hood prop, now I don't have to grab a piece of pipe all the time and it staying in whatever clamp was already there

Here is where it sits, once that is together it'll be a cruiser.

front bumper back on, something for the rear bumper and hitch receiver, and figuring out why the radio, dash and all sorts of electrical things don't work.

At this point it feels like a bunch of the major stuff is done though, so that's nice.


proof it goes forward, stopped to make sure it went backwards before pulling into the road to get turned around

 

[Provience]

2-5/16 trailer ball is super handy for reforming 2-1/2" exhaust

and here is the kinked section, i ended up using a couple of 45* to clear the trans crossmember and needed some straight. Put me right about where i'd creased it previously. What it started with on top, what I ended with after hammer, pliers, trailer ball on the bottom and a reference "good" section on the left

7 slices was the appropriate number to make the gentle bend and right all my wrong angles

gave it the old cut where it touches and you don't want it to

and weld where it does touch and you want it to stay. the factory mount remnants off the junk yard tube made contact with the retrofit hanger, pretty sweet

and added a hanger to this clamp. I don't really know why I went at such an angle, but it made sense at the time when i was under there

Just a hint of evidence that my quick shitty welds the other day aren't exactly air tight not really worried about it on this thing, might slap some spray paint on there, but i'm figuring it'll last long enough for what I'm doing to be not a big deal.

and it looks like it belongs

If i can come up with a spot to add another hanger i will, but for now the 2 seem to be working fine

 

[Provience]

I was really hoping for a very quiet stock sort of sound, maybe if i'd used a new muffler instead of a used one. As it is, other than the sound of a couple exhaust leaks and the manifold leak, it sounds too open. However, it cannot be beat for the cost and it gets the vast majority of the fumes behind the rear axle, so all in all, complete success. Drove it around the block a few times to make some loaded pulls. Steering/toe still isn't set, brakes work and it shifts like it should.

Speedometer works, that's a plus

Real slight fuel leak from this fitting, i'm going to have to try out my old flare set instead of the newer one

also looks like a really small leak here.

power steering feed line was very loose, but that stopped leaking after tightening it down. Hosed it off to see if the leaks are done leaking.

 

[Levigarrett76]

Add a glasspack in front of the muffler.

Impressed you pushed thru and got this thing on the road

 

[Provience]

Add a glasspack in front of the muffler.

Impressed you pushed thru and got this thing on the road

Thanks! Glasspack would help a bunch, probably even one of those resonator tips would be enough to quiet it down. It's not too bad overall. Certainly could be worse and it's better than the other day when it was pretty well just straight pipe.

I'm happy I ended up pretty close to my original $3k price guess, sure did go way longer on time than I figured

 

[Levigarrett76]

What is the first job for truck?

 

[Provience]

What is the first job for truck?

Build a garage for itself

Cheap bastard TinyHome design, need some direction

Looking for some thoughts and feedback on a TinyHouse for the pickup to live in. Garage sort of thing, carport that attempts to keep the mice out. Pickup is about 8' wide and 19' long, so i'm thinking 16' wide and 24' long is a reasonable size. Is that too short for 20' of pickup? Trying to be...

irate4x4.com

 

[Levigarrett76]

Is that a 30 spline dana 60 rear? I dont have much experience with the pre sterling 10.25 85ish 3/4 & 1 ton bullnose trucks

 

[Provience]

Is that a 30 spline dana 60 rear? I dont have much experience with the pre sterling 10.25 85ish 3/4 & 1 ton bullnose trucks

Should be, d61 rear and d50 ttb front...only the best for this I've got no interest in changing either fwiw.

 

[Levigarrett76]

Interesting, thx for sharing.

The 80-85 f350's were special

 

[cemeyer]

An old trick when using paper holley gaskets, is coat them with chapstick and you will usually get to reuse them.

 

[cemeyer]

Got the carburetor popped off, this thing does nothing and isn't linked to anything. it can stay floppy, other option would be to remove it, but that seems excessive

That floppy lever would be for an auto trans kickdown lever.
By the way, just read the whole thread. Good job keeping with it and getting old iron on the road again!

 

[Provience]

An old trick when using paper holley gaskets, is coat them with chapstick and you will usually get to reuse them.

Thanks, these came like that amd split I'm half. Conveniently, they still hold fuel. I did pick up the blue reusable gaskets and those will live in their packaging in the glove box for the inevitable next time it comes apart. I am still on the likely side for getting the oxygen sensor hooked up for some more tuning and such

That floppy lever would be for an auto trans kickdown lever.
By the way, just read the whole thread. Good job keeping with it and getting old iron on the road again!

Thanks

 

[Provience]

I'm probably up to a post for this thread

Here is the old inner tie rod for the drivers side, gentle pressure on the front/back of the tire and it flops side to side, despite being freshly greased. New tie rod end holds up much better.




This also took care of the excess camber I had going on with that side. Set the front end on jack stands and took the drag link off at the steering box. Recentered the steering wheel, 2-1/8 turns from locked, and played around until the wheel was about centered, the tires looked mostly straight and the toe was about 1 to 2 eighths of an inch inward

Set it on the ground and it looks to be significantly improved from where it was before. Yay!

Since I was already on the ground, wiped off the crank a bunch and gave it a shot of paint to see if it would be easier to read

Better than the miserable that it was before, still not legible under the light. kinda-sorta can see it pretty well sticking with the 10* as recommended by the sticker.

popped open the hood....stupid old plastic, being all brittle and stuff

new 3/8" return line for the power steering pump

and my puller decided today was the end of it's life. Last time i used it, had to use vice grips and pipe wrenches to keep it together. Borrowed the Loaner kit from the parts store, went much faster

and a bad picture that i'm not sure why i took, but there it is

and beings this was the absolute worst master cylinder i'd ever seen, and I tried to just use some sand paper and a finger instead of a hone to "rebuild it", I ended up going with a full replacement unit. This one doesn't seem to leak out of the fittings or the rear, which is pretty neat

and crossover from the useless things about your ford from the other weekend, got my hitch receiver installed. Didn't get around to making a rear bumper or a brace for the receiver today.