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1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s

I had reached another burn out phase in the build and redirected my time effort and money towards my garage and the race car which overall didn’t exactly make progress but built long term equity. The following pictures are random checklist stuff that spread out over a few month.

Not much to document on the rear bumper. It’s AMD and not knowing any better I’d say it’s a decent bumper. Bumper brackets are hard to come by for these trucks. I said F it and bought the cheapest wrong application brackets I could find on eBay. They’re F250 or something. They’re close but had enough meat I could trim and drill my own holes. It worked well enough.
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Before the engine even had oil I had a leaky pan. Just the assembly goo was finding its way out. How did this happen? I had some air head moment where I uprighted the engine before/during the pan install and I tainted the gasket maker. I also over torqued the bolts and deflected the timing cover. So anyways another perk of building a big ghey truck land truck is you can remove the pan without any interference.
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I refreshed the C6 pan while I was there. Turns out it had warped flanges from some monkey cranking on the bolts.
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The steering rez mount was another procrastinated item. I get all hung up because I want to be creative like Morgan Clarke. So I end up with dimple die poo bracket.
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Bracket was metal shaped 1 piece from the 2 cereal box templates complete with poo tig welds.
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Made a quick and dirty steering wheel puller. This wheel looked like a dog chewed on it because it was stored upright on a floor and pushed around. It’s replaced with a more okayish stock wheel. But my parts/design adhd suddenly wanted a previous gen 3 spoke wheel. I’m still in the parts hoarding phase for that build.
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The next update will be where my motivation began to match the momentum of the seasons leaving winter behind and getting off the porch crossing off so many neglected tasks to finish this build.
 
Yeah, checking the photo dates, April of this year is where the next update comes from and I drove this thing last week! Which it’s now torn apart again on jack stands :confused:
 
I had been sitting on a full cab gasket set. I put the race car and side project distractions aside and tackled the driver door rebuild. The old window guides were completely dried out and mostly missing. It was a pretty easy job and turned out nice. Not much to photograph. The windows are tight and roll freely. Plenty of YouTube vids on this. Gaskets are from graveyard and carpenter. Now I’ve got to tackle the passenger side.

Future plans are to build my own door cards inspired by Vivian
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You should have put sound deadener in while you were at it. As much as possible.
 
Sound deadener is something I’d like to try but since I’m not sure if I’ll keep these doors (or this truck) the thought process was get the thing on the road instead of living perpetually in my garage. I still haven’t made up my mind for carpet or vinyl floor.
 
Here’s present 🎁 day :beer: lol

R code servo arrived. Shift technologies, superior, Fairbanks……
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Presently working on converting the Pertronix dizzy to vacuum advance. One body guy fell through and I have another to call about getting this cab repaired so glass can be installed and it can finally live outside.

Fun updates to come
 
The door was refreshed to operating condition in April. It was one of many item lines left on the list of procrastination.

I tackled the oil cooler plumbing for the steering and transmission next. Didn’t turn out half bad. Coolers are 80 somethin Econoline. The OEM Ford stacked plate coolers are a good value. They measure 7x11x1.5 which is a bit larger than the largest F series coolers I’ve used for steering on my crawler/ultra4.
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Steering cooler utilizes 90* bulkheads to pass through the core support.
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I had visions of building an X pipe system for this truck but instead settled for independent duals. (A box full of bends and X is sitting in my shed)
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Everything is 3” of some stainless flavor. The mufflers are Spintech sportsman 3000….pretty sure. They’re pretty mellow at idle. Between a glass pack and chamber muffler. Over 3k and they sing a real sweet note. I dig em!
 
I’d absolutely forget about those tips until one was lodged in my temple….
Yeah I call that masterpiece a trip to the ER :laughing:

What is the idea behind that exhaust tip?
Art practice more than anything. I’m a fan of fish mouth or tear drop exhaust shapes. A straight cut turn-down just looks boring. While these are a bit excessive and otherwise serve no function, it was an exercise in layout and symmetry. They do hit a couple of visual cues with the leaf pivot bolt. Again exercising symmetry on both sides. Challenging for something so subtle.
 
This update brings the build into May

Mirrors were next. Stock mirrors were chosen and refreshed. They had these cool stainless extensions that someone home brewed in its past life. (They’re for sale 😉) The mirrors themselves are roached - full of sand and rust scale and sound like a maraca and of course the pivot stud is a rusty pos. I replaced them with some “FIT” mirrors off the website our wives order from. I tried soaking the folding mechanisms but there’s no chance of them being free.
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Squirrel! My attention span jumped to replacing the pinion seals, tcase outputs/gaskets. Soaked the seal housings in simple green for a few days and they look like “new”
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I’m not even that old yet but this practice is essential. I keep and label the seal boxes etc so it makes dealing with parts counter dipshits easier.
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Oh right, I was working on the mirrors. A lower bracket was missing so I figured wth I can make one. Inspired by Skipped_Link when he built his mirror brackets with the smashed tube ends on midnight panic. Apples to oranges but I made my own dues to recreate this tab
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Exhaust hanger brackets. I purchased these blue silicone bushings and tabs from Summit but it turns out they can’t stand the heat. Gotta replace them with aluminum bushings.
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Rear axle was ready for final welding and I wanted to clean the sludge from the hubs. Overall the drums were okayish and was evident of fairly new parts all around. Good enough to pass over for now and not waste any more time on disc brakes just so I could drive the truck before losing another summer.
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It was a nice feeling seeing brake lines secured and installing the driveshaft
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Beginning of the double shear pitman arm
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Final pitman fab. I got into dychem and chisel sharpies for layout. It really stepped up my game.
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Learned this trick from Shannon Campbell when he built his rzr from scratch. He did things the “hard” way to show old school tech in that build.
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Lookin good, right?
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Nah, this ain’t the Morgan Clarke show
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It turned out many pounds lighter than my race car pitman
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Safety cap/lathe exercise
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Never be able to stuff like this but it’s built for it anyways!
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June update

Rear wheel splash guards installed
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Minnesota doesn’t even know the word messican
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This is tierod wobble stopper plan B
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Purchased some aluminum barrels from an eBay machinist before I had a lathe but they were still a hair too long so I chucked them up and brought the pump belt closer to alignment
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The list was getting really short for test drive time. Everything was plumbed. Rear axle was a fresh roller. T-case was re-sealed and topped off with slippery stuff. Now it was time to final weld the front axle.
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Plan A wobble stopper/panhard/hydro assist tab stuff. Wish I could’ve plated or added more gusset
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Plan B wobble stopper on driver side
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Work was on hold for a couple of weeks until I got back from Florida in July.
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Finished welding the axle wedges and related brackets etc. Instead of using a jam nut on the steering stops, I made spacers from a scrapped 7/8 bolt.
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The following photos are of the “final” axle assembly and showcase the clearance or serviceability of fasteners etc that were carefully planned out
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On my KP60 I thought it was clever practice to drill the caliper slide retaining bolt for 3/8-16 and put an Allen bolt in place. It was luck in the past. Now that I live in the rust belt I polished up these slides and tried caliper lube, I learned how important the flange on the inadequate OEM bolt is. A slight nudge and the caliper popped out and smashed my arm to the floor. Youch. Lesson learned and I had some hardened flange bolts. Now it’s a win win
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The hydro assist tabs act as a wrench flat for the panhard bolt and the cylinder bolt is the redundant safety
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Had these 14” limit straps leftover from the racecar and they work perfectly for this application.
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Some of the ideas you come up with are iust damn cool, like the 7\8 bolt spacer
 
Front axle was in. List was very short. Like look at my work schedule, count on my fingers while talking to myself and determine next Tuesday test drive short but then issues started rearing their head.

Starting with the front driveline. No surprise there but it was a wait until everything is finished and I’ll deal with it then situation. The truck has a 5” lift, married T-case with short adapter so I knew all along I was gonna have trouble. Stock yokes were basically completely locked up.

1330
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1310
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Retail prices are now to the point where I can’t even justify the cost. So I rooted through my limited junk pile and came up with a hens tooth 1330 NP205 rear output yoke. Cleaned it up along with salvaging the slip and also borrowed a slinger for the sake of just doing things right.

1330 CV 1310 ubolt 1330 ubolt
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Shaft on right was the donor
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Not much I could profile on the pinion side but I did it anyways.
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It’s my preference to run the slip away from the pinion but this was the only way I could get the most yoke clearance. It spins freely at ride height but I’ve not been able to test it in the field yet. I’m fairly certain that it won’t be very practical under a wide range of operation outside of street use under severe snow fall driving to work.
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Future plan is long output C6 so that I can run a CV joint at the case. Long story is that I’ve got a long output core that I want to build in a ribbed case utilizing the wide ratio kit. Then I started dreaming about an E4OD or 4R100 swap. Hmmmm haven’t done much research regarding case lengths or what I’d need to hang a 205 off the rear yet.
 
Driveshaft sorted out late July, time to fill diff with oil. I had just a few simple tasks left. Hack a temporary gauge setup to the dash, bleed brakes and steering and final weld all the steering links etc. A matter days remaining. Welp, I found a puddle of gear oil below the driver knuckle a couple days. F me!

Alright. It’s been 3yrs what’s another couple week delay?

Time to rip it apart. Once the F-250 brakes are off, you realize how tiny a D44 is
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Figured while it was apart, might as well add some sort of traction device. Ordered a new cross pin while I was searching for parts so that I wouldn’t have any surprises. Good thing I did.
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I chose a Torq-locker. Honestly after being so familiar with the 60/70 in the KOH rig and my 1ton diesels, I’m skeptical that I should even “wheel” this truck at all.
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In another post I’ll go over wheel studs. For some reason this axle had 1/2” on driver 9/16” on pass knuckle. Not sure why but it was nice to address this now.
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The whole reason this came to be. Inner axle seals. Bought a cheap tool on eBay. Worth every penny. As a note, every press seal I’ve installed on this truck, I wipe a small film of right stuff. Leave nothing to chance.
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D44 vs Solid D60. This knuckle is for KOH
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Both these axles had plenty of farmer fab. Sorry if you’re a farmer and take offense. Maybe I should say lots of square peg in a round hole level of craftsmanship. The axle bearings were both at different install heights. This one completely seated.
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Both spindle bearing were removed and set to the correct depth. I found the info on different corn binder forums. The depth was set at .127” leaving the seal to sit .037” proud
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Everyone has a 2-3/4” socket, right? Right?
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The entire axle left to right needed various states of refurbish work due to hack repair work. During the tear down it was amazing how many things L to R were missing in various orders. Everything is “restored” as it should be with all seals, bearings, slingers etc as it should be. I was going to send the rotors as is with their rusty film but I took the time with a wire cup, flap disc and DA sander to bring the finish in. The brakes bedded in nicely on the test drive.
 
Axle slingers traveling snail mail delayed the front axle by a week of progress so I got after welding the steering links. My little invention consisted of welding the casters of a busted cherry picker to my junk/dirty fab table and utilizing my bead roller, old flex hose and a 1.5” diameter step die as a weld positioner. Worked tits. It’s just barely slow enough/enough torque

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Drag link double shear. Excuse to use my dimple dies and press brake
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Last minute I second guessed myself and changed the otherwise fixed tie rod geometry. I was pretty close to 1/8” toe-in but wound up on the heavy side of 1/4”. Might not be an issue but it’s the problem of having a steering design like this for a street rig. It’ll be updated in the future.
 
Oh yea, I think my last rig i wound up with 1350 cv up front at t-case and one of those goofy 1350 offset tom woods joints at pinion. Only because i got a smokin deal on that shaft from high angle used...
 
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