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1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

Got the toolbox liner in and the door on. Tied it shut for now until I can find a latch. Next step is to modify the lower trim.
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Although I am a cheap fuck I bought a toolbox door with a latch on ebay for $150, just for the latch. The bed was free. I can sell the door and some trim pieces for about the same I imagine. Need to replace the lock, and want both toolbox doors to be keyed alike, so will do both. Hopefully all the shit in the in-bed toolbox will fit into the new left side below-bed one, so I can get rid of it (move it to a trailer). This will allow a Jerry can in it's place.

Emptied out an old USMC 5 G can I had and cleaned it up. Hit it with the last of the green paint, but ran short. Still came out looking cool, more metallic olive drab. The 2.5 G water jug is same footprint so can use that mount also.
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The toolbox door/latch showed up so I went right to work painting the latch. I also shot the front valance and put more paint on the Jerry can.
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Hacked up the trim into three pieces and formed the ends.
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New gaskets and door stop wire. For the catch, I had to make a mirror image of the old. I flattened in the press and re-bent it the other direction. Took some fine tuning to get it to slam shut properly.
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Need a larger power steering fluid cooler, or at least one that mounts in the cooler stack so it has airflow across it. Stumbled across an application specific plate style cooler that was about the right size, with mounting provisions and a hardline to bring both connections to one side.
Dorman 918-287 Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler. From Expedition/Navigator with heavy duty cooling package so should be enough for a steering pump. I though about a fan with temp sensor on the existing cooler but this is more simple. Even when engine is cold, idle in park the fan pulls air through.
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Simple brackets to mount to A/C condenser.
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Has 10mm barbs. I can get 3/8" TOC hose on but tight. Need to flush the system of the Dex/Merc and refill with Mercon LV same as transmission.
 
Can you measure that?

I think it'd be a good aux transmission cooler on my shitboxes. :laughing:
 
I got the cooler install wrapped up. I added a third fastener in the extra tab to prevent wobbling on the rubber mounts. Local Autozone was out of TOC hose. I had some and made it work by extending the hardline from the box. The long line puts more leverage on the flare nut though, so I should probably redo it. I was able to flush and refill with Merc LV. The hoses run through the same hole as the A/C, so the core support can be removed with out cracking in to the lines.

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hit the fasteners with black paint, and it all disappears.
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Used Oetiker clamps. 1/2 pex clamps work good for 3/8 hoses.
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ya ya,:flipoff2:

Core is 22" x 3.5" x 1" and overall is 30" x 5" x 1.5". Barbs are 10mm. HW is 8mm / 5/16

The mounting brackets are riveted on so would be pretty easy to mod or replace.
 
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Hit another Autozone for some J1532 TOC hose and swapped out the long hardline. Made a huge mess of fluid so cleaned the engine bay, drove it around and parked to find flare leaking and fluid on the floor. Snugged and seems good. Topped the fluid, still moaning so hoping just some residual air.
The core is 2x the old and with engine fan airflow it should keep fluid temps in check.

Of the three issues from last trail run, 2 are fixed, next is toolbox damage and sliders. Looks like I did need a new toolbox door for right side.:shaking:
 
Repaired the damage to the drinker's side toolbox. Pulled the door off, it is fairly fucked up. Could fix with filler but now I have a spare. I just bent/smashed existing one back into shape with largest adjustable wrench I had and a large hammer. Hammered the dents out of the trim piece. Put if back on and adjusted. Can't hardly tell, good enough.
 
Stuck in indecision with rock sliders. Really looks best without anything but I'm going to continue to enjoy it on the trails and rocker protection is needed. I've mocked up a few different materials and sizes and went back and forth on placement. Considered cutting and welding custom shapes but feeling too lazy to do that many feet of tubing. Maybe simple is best here.
 
I say you build something overly complex and cool, because reasons :laughing:
Seriously though, they're gonna be a mile long, id at least take the time to build something good looking.
 
You already have that chrome trim, would painting them the same color look too out of place?
 
I say you build something overly complex and cool, because reasons :laughing:
Seriously though, they're gonna be a mile long, id at least take the time to build something good looking.
Damn you Rep. Damn you....
You already have that chrome trim, would painting them the same color look too out of place?
Body Color or silver like the bumpers? Was thinking black to draw least attention.
 
it is paint. Do one silver, one black and then when you decide which one you like less, hit that one with green, then figure out which one you like less and paint it to match.

they will get scratched up soon enough.
 
Black for the sliders, do then out of 3/16" and find a shop with a large break, give them 3 bends to look similar to a rear bumper/roll pan and have them just up to the bottom of the rocker, and down just enough to stick in bracing to the frame
 
Black for the sliders, do then out of 3/16" and find a shop with a large break, give them 3 bends to look similar to a rear bumper/roll pan and have them just up to the bottom of the rocker, and down just enough to stick in bracing to the frame
Oh man you are not helping either. Had those thoughts as well. I had a local shop do my 8' workbench top on a 400 ton press, so they can easily do any shape I want 3/16. trade some $ for time here.
 
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