Well, that just got expensive..... But it solves a lot of issues and will talk to all my Victron shit. I am slowly ditching all the 12V appliance and shit in the living area. All the lighting is now LED that will run 12/24. Being able to pump twice the current through the existing power cabling to the inverter will be nice.
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1959 GMC 2 ton bus - 4x4 swap
- Thread starter thatbus
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Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Current = amps = flow
Potential = Volts = pressure
Volts x amps = watts
Potential = Volts = pressure
Volts x amps = watts
I take it you mean double the voltage, same amps, which doubles the input wattage, and should help the output power?
thatbus
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Also look at the Balmar alternatives to the Wakespeed. You can find the MC612/MC624 and similar programmable or current-limiting regulators on ebay for $150 USD-ish. New they go for like $250 last I saw.
thatbus
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Got a question for anyone with some air compressor experience...
Was initially thinking of doing a 24V electric air compressor. The CFM seems shitty for these units though, for the price you pay. The pneumatic fuel shutoff solenoid "fails" to an open valve via a spring, so, I can start the bus with 0 air pressure no worries. That got me thinking...
A higher CFM belt-driven option would be nice and I should be able to satisfy my air needs when the engine isn't running with a small tank. York compressors seem interesting as an option but I can't find much locally. No idea what my DT360 originally came with but it has a bracket for a compressor. Neighbour also gave me a nice, American-made "model 34" Sanborn compressor for free. Came from some sort of shop compressor. Good condition and it's just collecting dust...
Is there any reason I couldn't just slap a magnetic clutch on this thing and run with it? I can't find RPM specs for it but I know similar models like to spin between 700 and 1200 RPM.
Or like oplebennet said; if you use the same cables, which will handle the same current regardless of voltage, you double the watts/power you can deliver to loads by doubling the voltage.
Was initially thinking of doing a 24V electric air compressor. The CFM seems shitty for these units though, for the price you pay. The pneumatic fuel shutoff solenoid "fails" to an open valve via a spring, so, I can start the bus with 0 air pressure no worries. That got me thinking...
A higher CFM belt-driven option would be nice and I should be able to satisfy my air needs when the engine isn't running with a small tank. York compressors seem interesting as an option but I can't find much locally. No idea what my DT360 originally came with but it has a bracket for a compressor. Neighbour also gave me a nice, American-made "model 34" Sanborn compressor for free. Came from some sort of shop compressor. Good condition and it's just collecting dust...
Is there any reason I couldn't just slap a magnetic clutch on this thing and run with it? I can't find RPM specs for it but I know similar models like to spin between 700 and 1200 RPM.
IMO, makes things a bit easier to measure things in power aka. watts when you're considering differences in voltage. Volts (V) x current (A or I) = watts (W). A 1200W air con will have the same power running at 12V DC x 100A or 24V DC x 50A or 120V AC x 10A for example... but obviously way smaller cables with the latter.
Or like oplebennet said; if you use the same cables, which will handle the same current regardless of voltage, you double the watts/power you can deliver to loads by doubling the voltage.
thatbus
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Just need to paint, sealant, and rivet 'er in, but I'm liking how that fits...
All that's left to do with the engine is SS hardlines to the tank, install the fuel tank, and install the hydroboost/hydro steering assist components.
thatbus
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Would appreciate some opinions on how to handle the frame painting on this bus...
Given this is on a tight budget, "cheap but effective" is the aim. At the same time, I don't want to waste my time here. Is it worth media blasting the frame, and generally, more cost-effective to rent a unit myself, buy some chinesium from harbor freight/princess auto, or find someone who does mobile blasting? The rust is very light, all surface, no flaking whatsoever.
If I blast it, I intend to go with roll-on coal tar epoxy; ugly, stinky, but damn effective. If not, I'll prep with phosphoric acid and use a moisture-cure-urethane like POR-15.
Thoughts?
Had some fun beadrolling today:
Made a few plates to sandwich the firewall insulation against and use for bulkhead passthroughs. Real happy with how the electrical/air line panel turned out:
Fab'd a new clutch linkage too:
Also got lucky with this find:
Surplus, straight from the Corpus Christi Army Depot; a several thousand dollar 1/4 rivet gun for $82 lol. Someone decided that unjamming it and replacing the jaws wasn't worth it I guess...
Given this is on a tight budget, "cheap but effective" is the aim. At the same time, I don't want to waste my time here. Is it worth media blasting the frame, and generally, more cost-effective to rent a unit myself, buy some chinesium from harbor freight/princess auto, or find someone who does mobile blasting? The rust is very light, all surface, no flaking whatsoever.
If I blast it, I intend to go with roll-on coal tar epoxy; ugly, stinky, but damn effective. If not, I'll prep with phosphoric acid and use a moisture-cure-urethane like POR-15.
Thoughts?
Had some fun beadrolling today:
Made a few plates to sandwich the firewall insulation against and use for bulkhead passthroughs. Real happy with how the electrical/air line panel turned out:
Fab'd a new clutch linkage too:
Also got lucky with this find:
Surplus, straight from the Corpus Christi Army Depot; a several thousand dollar 1/4 rivet gun for $82 lol. Someone decided that unjamming it and replacing the jaws wasn't worth it I guess...
arse_sidewards
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If you do sandblast it go straight to a pressure pot. Don’t waste your time with siphon feed stuff.
thatbus
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Well, seems that sandblasting would be prohibitively expensive in having someone come out to do it, and the rental places are the same story, or, they rent out a good pressure pot but don't rent the compressor required to run it... go figure. 
I'll need to buy epoxy paint anyways for this bus and can get a great price on Benjamin Moore V155 epoxy primer which seems to be pretty forgiving far as surface prep goes; designed to work over phosphoric acid surface treatments. Something I do a lot of, and have always had good results with. I would then coat with their V400/410 polyamide epoxy, and do a final coat of something with high UV resistance for the bodywork... probably not necessary for the frame. Eventually I'd fluid film or cosmoline the chassis with RP342. Sound like a good plan?
I'll need to buy epoxy paint anyways for this bus and can get a great price on Benjamin Moore V155 epoxy primer which seems to be pretty forgiving far as surface prep goes; designed to work over phosphoric acid surface treatments. Something I do a lot of, and have always had good results with. I would then coat with their V400/410 polyamide epoxy, and do a final coat of something with high UV resistance for the bodywork... probably not necessary for the frame. Eventually I'd fluid film or cosmoline the chassis with RP342. Sound like a good plan?
arse_sidewards
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For "imperfect" projects like this I use Rustoleum "rusty metal primer" (which I think is just red oxide primer but with something other than lead) for shit like that and it's never let me down. I can't say that about epoxy primers.
I'd treat it and then pressure wash it off if chemical compatibility is a concern.
But if you've used that primer before on a job like this and had good results then it's probably fine.
I'd treat it and then pressure wash it off if chemical compatibility is a concern.
But if you've used that primer before on a job like this and had good results then it's probably fine.
thatbus
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That is actually what I've used on several parts. The transfer case (goes over CARC paint nicely), rear axle, firewall, doghouse, etc.
Either Rustoleum rusty metal primer or POR15 as a base + Rustoleum Tractor Paint + their tractor paint hardener.
So far it's been great for parts that have sat outside for over a year exposed to the elements, but granted it's not like I've actually driven the vehicle yet... Always hear people touting how great epoxy paints are... while shitting on POR15... while then recommending a virtually identical moisture-cure-urethane. So IDK what to believe.
thatbus
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Figured out my paint situation...
Ended up with Benjamin Moore V155 epoxy primer. It seems extremely forgiving far as prep goes. A good application of phosphoric acid, degreasing, and you'll get a solid coat. I will be topcoating it with a urethane from the same paint system.
Also made a fan shroud for the DT360:
Ended up with Benjamin Moore V155 epoxy primer. It seems extremely forgiving far as prep goes. A good application of phosphoric acid, degreasing, and you'll get a solid coat. I will be topcoating it with a urethane from the same paint system.
Also made a fan shroud for the DT360: