14 JKU M-380 "Kilroy"

Mad Max · Jun 28, 2024

cool - my local metal supplier also has large metal-working equipment, and was able to brake a perfect 3/4" lip across the front of my dash cover panel, and it turned out great - just some edge work and it'll basically be done. Now there's tons of storage for any/all small gear, the radio, gloves, etc...and hey like 300 ducks - ha! (...no...)...

SLOWPOKE693 · Jun 28, 2024

That looks killer! :smokin:

Mad Max · Jul 2, 2024

thanks - I'm really diggin' how it's turning out 👍

Couple more with the defroster vents and GMR-25 in place - I'll have a couple dividers to keep items from sliding around, and of course end caps, but this is pretty much it -

...and here's my wheel, along with a simple way to re-center it after some full-hydro 'drift' ;)

Mad Max · Jul 3, 2024

orbital valve and column linkage - tried to get the o.v. as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible -

Mad Max · Jul 8, 2024

Got the glove box lid figured out, made another access port for the t-case linkage, pulled the body back off, and now am going front to back finishing everything I figured out over the last couple months, the first of which is taking the tranny to a local shop to be 're-sealed' - it's leaking many places and I'm going to have my tranny guy make those pesky problems go away once and for all.
Also, just before deciding to ditch the Dakota and build a Jeep, I started noticing a significant engine oil leak at the back of the block, and the good news is...as far as I can tell anyway...the oil leak was actually coming from the intake seal, and not the rear main...I think -

gt1guy · Jul 8, 2024

When I mounted my orbital, I had the same thought to keep it away from the exhaust heat. My OCD kicked in and I didn't go quite as far forward as you did. My reasoning was if the serpentine belt let go, it wouldn't be lined up with the orbital hoses where it could possibly rip one off. Probably doesn't matter but, sometimes my brain works funny.
Keep up the good work, I'm digging what you're doing. That dash is awesome. :beer:

Mad Max · Jul 16, 2024

Ok - time to make stuff purty before final assembly 👍

Manifolds are sandblasted, and coated with POR-15 high-temp grey -

Frame/axle priming in work -

Mad Max · Aug 2, 2024

...got a lot of prep/priming/painting done (using good ole' rustoleum rusty metal primer and satin black paint), including the frame n hardware, gas tank cover, Barnes 3/16 shield, and front axle. Gas tank, front axle & suspension are bolted in -

...think I read there needs to be just a smidge of toe-in, so I measured right at 3/16 -

was able to utilize the 4th (d-side) ram mount by welding half of it to the removable plate for diff cover access - worked great -

Mad Max · Aug 5, 2024

360, 46rh, Atlas, and front shaft are in for good - rear 14b gets sprayed today.

Hoping to take it to Moab in October (at a 'minimum' capacity)...but if it doesn't make it I can still take the wife's big 08 JKU on 37s, and either way I'll just keep jammin' until it's ready.

Mad Max · Sep 13, 2024

alright - after a month of measuring/marking/cutting/grinding/drilling/welding/sanding...I have both sections of the belly armor ready for paint. The main core section 'interfaces' with the Barnes gas tank shield and carries the shield to the other side, and completely protects the t-case, and trans cooler, which I'm mounting behind the t-case. It's all 3/16" steel, including 20 feet of 2" strap to reinforce the long panels against 'caving in'.

The engine/trans shield 'interfaces' with the core shield, all connecting up on the trans crossmember. The entire thing is completely 'smooth' - no bolt heads or edges to catch on stuff - just the drain holes...if those really count.

Next, the exhaust goes right along the d-side along with a corresponding heat shield. I'll be tacking the exhaust together for good once I have some other hardware in place. Ok - pics -

Core Shield -

Engine/Trans shield (about 1" of gap between the shield and oil pan(s)) -

gt1guy · Sep 13, 2024

How far below the bottom of the frame is the bottom of the skid?

Skids look fantastic :beer:

Mad Max · Sep 13, 2024

gt1guy said:
How far below the bottom of the frame is the bottom of the skid?

Skids look fantastic

thanks 👍 - the whole flat bottom is about 2 inches below the bottom of the frame - it matches the Barnes gas tank shield as far as the overall depth, but it couldn't have been any higher as the bottom of the t-case is only about an inch above the shield.

Mad Max · Sep 17, 2024

...one thing I neglected to fully evaluate was how to drop the belly shield without inducing undue stress to the trans cooler lines, so I decided to mount the cooler and lines to the chassis and have them 'hover' above the shield, making it much easier and less messy when I have to pull the shield. The main bracket is welded to the big rear support bracket, which is removable/bolts to the crossmember, which makes the whole bracket removable, making it possible to pull/service the t-case, etc. Still some finish work to do, but here it all is -

line clamps attached to a plate welded to the trans mount bracket -

Mad Max · Sep 25, 2024

...ahhhh - love the smell of oil-based paint - always takes me back to my early days helping Dad and my bro-in-law paint the Jeep :) . Belly armor is primed and painted - should be ready to bolt it all up tomorrow -

...and if I ever flop on my side this will be the view 😁

ISSPRO fuel level float/sending unit installed - sanded the tank at the seal to smooth it out/help eliminate leaks - put Gasoila E-Seal on the threads and cranked the bolts tight into the collar, and it acts like studs and won't fall out if I ever need to service the float unit -

Just an assembly tip - for those doing full hydro or any other application with a very shiny and perfect rod like shocks, etc., use a piece of leftover radiator or fuel line hose to protect the surface area from dirt, debris, and for sure welding slag -

Lastly, here's an interesting view under the 2bbl throttle body -

gt1guy · Sep 25, 2024

Looking good. I'm glad I'm not the only one planning to brush rustoleum on everything.

rattle_snake · Sep 25, 2024

I typically use a foam roller for that paint, and add hardener to reduce dry time from days to hours.

Mad Max · Sep 25, 2024

...yep when I do the body I'm gonna use the brush/foam roller method for the Rustoleum rusty metal primer and then the USAF spec 'Strata' Blue (from Rapco)...but for the undercarriage it's just brush-on - not a fan of overspray when I can avoid it, even if it takes longer - besides I gots plenty of other things needing done in the meantime :grinpimp:

.

That hardener - can it be used with oil-based paint?, and if I pour some of that in a quart can of paint will it dry it out if resealed or would I have to 'use it all' once poured in?

rattle_snake · Sep 25, 2024

Yes it is for oil based acrylic such as rustolium. Once you mix hardener, you need to use it all. I just dump some into each roller tray worth of paint. It works well out of HVLP gun also.

If you want nice(r) finish without a gun, sand the base primer, and color sand rolled coat, then top with rattle can of the same.

Mad Max · Oct 2, 2024

...high pressure fuel filter is mounted in place on a removable bracket allowing it to hover just above the sending unit while also being neatly under the trap door, which I will raise up just about half inch to give plenty of clearance, both easily accessible from the floor hatch - just remove the right-rear seat and the hatch is right 'there' -

removable bracket to allow for removing the sending unit - works great -

removed a bit more from the floor -

and will clearance this lower part just a bit more -

Then mocked up the fuel lines and set the body on to check things out - pic from under the center console - sure is nice to be able to set the body on for fitment - noticed 'interference' between the projected fuel line route and outboard Atlas shift rod and cut yet another access port to enable me to maintain things that much easier -

Made a couple adjustments, and here's the layout. Both the feed and return are 5/16 EFI fuel hose from the tank to the throttle body, double wrapped first with DEI Vapor Block (pics) and then an outer heat shield from wherethehellever...

...and in the meantime...we have to have a new leach field put in...and they needed fill dirt...and we just happened to have a little project out back we wanted to do...so they helped us out by digging our giant hole...and we saved a bunch of $ on fill dirt - so now we have this to play in next to the rock pile :grinpimp:

look close - there's a JKU on 37s in there...

Mad Max · Oct 3, 2024

so...the factory gas tank sending unit has a smooth (not barbed) output port, which has a connector fitting with an internal o-ring...but when attached it just didn't seem to be very 'tight'...so I deleted the fitting and slipped the 5/16 hose directly over the port, which went on pretty tight, and then an EFI clamp to seal the deal - should work fine

I'm confident this will hold up to 50-60 psi just fine...and simplifies 'everything' -

with that done, attached all the fuel lines for good, and might even fill the tank all the way up and check the seals for the 'add-ons' - the float and return line - make sure they don't leak. Now is the time ...

slow600 · Oct 3, 2024

that fuel fitting would keep me up at night. how bout this?

https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Quick-Disconnect-Fitting-Aluminum/dp/B07GB2R77C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2L7YK8HRAOXGD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BttI2zO0AfLEWpjyuarLZGk9OgHZ5sWW3HIURoUGN6Amf6drXfcyB8_HIENNgI3VX-t6KRIEM_w335NznblHlgtz9y5n8QIBdF_hEbWTCF3bqPXvKDJMfPL3RnJi4Wmj5ab_5eyD8Ye7Ohwba2uOzq6hqFKCPeEr-vB4MhFldOoJtVZCzZhyXDdEG6CaTU1P-PNHH2jRnfcwdaBQnwA1nwCNRFe3w4s8nOCBf_1BaWKqEUc2Ol9mw_c3nBX50IpRxAA5wFViC_YQ0JNKWEX3lritGGuE-MDVsOvTn0yPdw8.RB2ZB6mUHDsGwNIGQkC-1MGELccC_RLVxNUfssuKh4w&dib_tag=se&keywords=efi%2B6an%2Bfitting&qid=1727985511&s=automotive&sprefix=efi%2B6an%2Bfitting%2Cautomotive%2C181&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Mad Max · Oct 3, 2024

...and that's why I post up my ideas to the congregation - there's always other ways. Ordered the fittings and I'll see how they work. Thanks for the link 👍

slow600 · Oct 3, 2024

welcome! gives you an excuse to make some new bling fuel lines lol. your attention to detail is impressive

Mad Max · Oct 3, 2024

well thanks again - I try hard to have my junk look like decent fabrication and not fabricobble :flipoff2:

Mad Max · Oct 7, 2024

...one of the main reasons I post up the many steps of what I'm doing is to enable the opportunity for others to provide feedback on better ways to do a thing, a perfect example being the really slick aluminum fuel fitting that replaces (in this case) the OE plastic wrangler gas tank sending unit fitting the gas tank sending unit. Thanks again to slow600 for the link - I already have it installed. This is an aluminum, internal double o-ring fuel fitting which appears to be a specific replacement for the weak OE plastic fittings...and in this case appears to perfectly fit a '12 wrangler sending unit (which is 3/8) -

Evil Energy 3/8 - 6an EFI fuel fitting - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB2R77C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Evil Energy 6an - 5/16 hose fitting - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09494FV4N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

As far as I can tell this fitting attaches to the plastic output tube perfectly - secures nice and tight to the stop lip -

and with these upgraded fittings in place the fuel system is 'done'. I did slightly 'scar' the plastic output tube with my exacto knife trying to get the 5/16 rubber hose off (that didn't make me happy) so I had to lightly sand the edge down for the o-ring to seal up clean; I was planning to fill the tank completely to make sure the float and return line seals don't leak, and while I'm at it I'll energize the pump and pressurize the lines and check for leaks.

rattle_snake · Oct 7, 2024

I assume the braid on the fuel lines is a heat insulator. Not sure you deal with extreme heat, but having the lines on top of the motor/trans will additionally heat the fuel. I don't see a way for it to cool (plastic tank, rubber lines all insulators). The return style system will always circulate fuel and pick up heat.

I would move lines as far away from any heat source as possible, but that is just me living in AZ.

Mad Max · Oct 7, 2024

...the only other way was to run the lines along the frame which would bring the lines very close to the manifold, and that was no good, so I went this route and put them as far away from the manifolds as possible. The system does circulate so there shouldn't be too much problem, and there's a lot of room for the heat to get out - should be ok.

Mad Max · Oct 8, 2024

I finally got the coils mounted. It took forever because I wanted upper and lower isolators for both the front and rear coils to the axles...but to my continued disbelief I could not find a source for a rear coil spring lower isolator...at least not for the Iron rock coils in my kit that rest flat on the 14b perch. The coils have a 2" i.d. at the base, and I needed a polyurethane bushing that would both fit the 2" hole just a bit tight and have an i.d. that would allow for a decently thick post to center on. After several rounds on Amazon of buy/return I finally found bushings that fit the bill perfectly...in the form of Kenworth motor mounts :) .

Get the mounts, pound out the sleeves, shave off the dome (that rests on the axle perch), cut about 1/2" off the length. Then a friend machined me a set of 1" x 1.5" steel posts with 1/2-13 internal thread, welded the posts to the perches...and the bushings fits my rear coils perfectly -

I used a wood rasp on my drill press to make a perfect chamfer to clear the welds -

Fits the coil base perfectly -

steel alignment posts -

After I bolted them in place I noticed the coils have a bit of 'bend' to them - due to the angle I have my 14b at to center the pinion joint - not really awesome, so I'm likely going to modify the coil base to zero out the bend...