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1.75 or 2" 120 wall for cage on this IH Scout II.

Added the windshield bars today and the hand grabs. 1 5/8 window bars and 1 5/16 grabs (my bender bent the 1 5/16 in my 1 1/4 die no prob.)

(used this as it was cheap as hell drops from the metal store this morn)
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So got a couple more hours out there and got the top started and measured for B pillar x and no go so x is going at C pillar for sure.

Tied B to C to D horizontally and a bar between B pillars at bottom.

So this is my plan 100% dictated by rear seat head room.
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You can see gaps on the pass side tighter than the drive side... I did not build the tub it is janky on the pass side, leans in too much. Nothing I can do bout it.
 
During a rollover while driving forward, the top corner of the A-pillar to windshield bar sees most of the force. Right now you're designing the overhead tubes to protect against something hitting the top middle of the windshield bar, which isn't gonna happen.

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Still needs at least some X-bracing on the "main hoop" or rear hoop behind the back seat to keep it from turning into a parallelogram. When designing a cage, keep this in mind: any bent tubing will smoosh until it comes across a piece of straight tubing. Support the bends as much as you can.

Don't forget padding once you're done. Would suck to have your own cage kill you from a minor bump.
 
Rockwood said:
During a rollover while driving forward, the top corner of the A-pillar to windshield bar sees most of the force. Right now you're designing the overhead tubes to protect against something hitting the top middle of the windshield bar, which isn't gonna happen.

1680289286720.png


Still needs at least some X-bracing on the "main hoop" or rear hoop behind the back seat to keep it from turning into a parallelogram. When designing a cage, keep this in mind: any bent tubing will smoosh until it comes across a piece of straight tubing. Support the bends as much as you can.

Don't forget padding once you're done. Would suck to have your own cage kill you from a minor bump.
Click to expand...

This is why I was going the other way to have more head clearance. I was going to gusset the front corners of the windshield frame.

Plan on wearing helmets when it gets rowdy. (plenty of head room in the front seats but since the tub is higher in the rear seats L, me at 5'10" only have 1.5" of head clearance under the bars. My kids are far shorter (5'4 and 5'7- this ones is still growing though she's only turning 13.))

No plans for high speed crash. Haha.

B pillar will be gusseted from top to sides.

The C pillar bars are getting an X so it shouldn't Fold.


Thanks I do appreciate the input, makes me think more. Haven't cut any of the tubes for here yet.
 
Those braces don't have to be 2". I think if you add the braces you have depicted, it'll help, but not much. Any street rollover will put a lot of stress on that upper corner, the more support you give it, the better.

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Rockwood said:
Those braces don't have to be 2". I think if you add the braces you have depicted, it'll help, but not much. Any street rollover will put a lot of stress on that upper corner, the more support you give it, the better.

NIP3WQZR2RH5RCJCHKWDEQAAV4.jpg
Click to expand...

What if I did smaller X over each front seat and leave the B to C pillar bars the way I planned.?

That would support that front corner.
 
Lots of metal, and the inner corner wouldn't be supported well. Your cage, and no clue how much head room there is, just giving you ideas.

Also:

Roll Bar Padding - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

We offer SCCA-legal racecar roll bar padding as well as SFI-rated roll bar padding and headrest padding foam. SFI-rated padding should be used where the helmet could contact the roll cage.
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com

Can't recommend this stuff enough. Brain swelling isn't fun. :flipoff2:
 
Rockwood said:
Lots of metal, and the inner corner wouldn't be supported well. Your cage, and no clue how much head room there is, just giving you ideas.

Also:

Roll Bar Padding - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

We offer SCCA-legal racecar roll bar padding as well as SFI-rated roll bar padding and headrest padding foam. SFI-rated padding should be used where the helmet could contact the roll cage.
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com

Can't recommend this stuff enough. Brain swelling isn't fun. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Roll Bar Padding - 3 ft. Length | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

That's all I'd do. Not race car speeds.

Ya now that I see this padding I think I'll do what you suggested and go with this.

Thanks. Appreciate the thinking you have forced me to do.
 
Got those top X crosses in yesterday, notching those was fun. I did end up putting a 10 degree bend in them at the outside end which matched up well.

The notch at the center node is near impossible to get done well, the bottom sides had about a 1/4" gap for the bottom 1/3rd. I don't understand how you could get them in with a full notch. Even this way I had to tap em in with the dead blow. Just ended up building up with weld bead.

Ordered a 12 pack of non SFI rated roll bar padding from Summit racing. (36 feet total)


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Should I put plate gussets in the corners of the windshield bars? I'm not putting tube gussets in there, takes too much visible space.

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Looks good. I'd say only need plate in corners if you'll use them eventually to mount something to. Idk what you may need, mirror or visor mount, devise mount, some doodads down the road... they won't help much with strength, your triangulation is doing all that now.
 
Winchested said:
The notch at the center node is near impossible to get done well, the bottom sides had about a 1/4" gap for the bottom 1/3rd. I don't understand how you could get them in with a full notch. Even this way I had to tap em in with the dead blow. Just ended up building up with weld bead.
Click to expand...
Cut the bar in half, sleeve it in the middle.
Or cut the notch in half, plate it and weld it back together.
 
Bebop said:
Cut the bar in half, sleeve it in the middle.
Or cut the notch in half, plate it and weld it back together.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I was thinking of plating the bottom of the main node in the center. Maybe one day.
 
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