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1.75 or 2" 120 wall for cage on this IH Scout II.

Winchested said:
Okay bringing this junk back from the dead.

I finally got my 2" die for my Ez Bend 90. Earlier measurements are 75-80 ft of tube for a basic cage.

Heres my idea, is it good?

Plan on a lower windshield bar, a knee bar under the dash to tie the plate legs together. 1 or 2 bars vertical on the windshield.

Ill likely just buy 100 ft of 2" Hrew as DOM is retarded up here in canaduh.

I'm thinking about a seat belt bar for the front seats and also a bar behind the rear seat. Its a regular bench. I want the bar removable behind the front seats. I have a set of 2 2" tmr inserts.

I was thinking the inserts under for the under dash bar too.

Scout side.jpg
Scout top.jpg
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I approve, but only if you leave it red.
:flipoff2:
Looks like a good plan:beer:
 
What's your plan on tube runs?

A to C pillar(1 bend)
Slug and join there
Hoop for top of D pillar from there connecting left and right sides(2 bends)
B, C, and D pillars single tubes ran down making sure C is directly under the slug joint and D is at slight angle like in pic

That'd be my plan
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
What's your plan on tube runs?

A to C pillar(1 bend)
Slug and join there
Hoop for top of D pillar from there connecting left and right sides(2 bends)
B, C, and D pillars single tubes ran down making sure C is directly under the slug joint and D is at slight angle like in pic

That'd be my plan
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No slugs single run from front to back B an C posts with gussets. Literally 2 bends on each single run. one 45 on 80 seems doable. roughly 12-13' of tube,
 
Don't like what you have over the front seats. It's just a couple squares and a rectangle. I'd run two bars from the center of the B to the outsides of the A's. Maybe one running from the center of the B to the center of the C.


Scout top.jpg




If you want the harness bar on the B removable, I assume you have no plans to put a X in the B either? That's leaving a lot of the strength of the cage off the table.

Would something like this work for the B-pillar? The red would be none removable/welded in place. Green is your harness bar, you could make that removable in two pieces. It also requires a bar to be ran between the bottom of B's.


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subybaja said:
Why? Sounds weak.

Screenshot 2023-02-20 at 18-38-01 1.75 or 2 120 wall for cage on this IH Scout II.png

Why? Looks weak.
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gt1guy said:
Don't like what you have over the front seats. It's just a couple squares and a rectangle. I'd run two bars from the center of the B to the outsides of the A's. Maybe one running from the center of the B to the center of the C.


Scout top.jpg




If you want the harness bar on the B removable, I assume you have no plans to put a X in the B either? That's leaving a lot of the strength of the cage off the table.

Would something like this work for the B-pillar? The red would be none removable/welded in place. Green is your harness bar, you could make that removable in two pieces. It also requires a bar to be ran between the bottom of B's.


Untitled.jpg
Click to expand...


I will change the design over the front seats that's good thanks for pointing that out. I just figured something was better than nothing. How should I tie in the vertical windshield bars. I'm thinking of just using 1.75" for the bar across top of dash and the vertical bars just to have more view.


Street driven vehicle with an actual back seat that gets used. Soft top is on 75% of the time so no way to climb in and out of rear seat with and X or any B pillar brace other than just a straight harness bar.

It still gets loaded up with camping gear etc for "rock camping" trips and still need to be able to put a 7 ft gazelle tent bag in it.

Basically looking to be safe in a slow speed roll over induced from bouncing up a vertical climb. Or off camber flop.

I've witnessed a stock jeep JK roll over and other than removing the windshield, wheel the next day. Guy was absolutely fine.

None of this is for racing, no rock bouncing, no high speed other than driving to the trails. Won't be going faster than 75 mph.
 
I used 1.5" tube for my windshield bars in a "V". All you're trying to do is to tie the dash bar to the windshield bar.

So any kind of "X" is out. That's not the end of the world, but it sucks:flipoff2:

When you run your B, C and D vertical bars, tie them into the the tub as high as you can. All the way to the top of the tub would be best. That could almost cut the free span of unsupported tube in half. Plus, it only fills in empty space you can't use anyway.

If you do that, do it like the blue lines. DO NOT do it like the green line. Green bad, blue good:smokin:

Untitled.jpg
 
More triangles in the vertical plane and less in the horizontal. All those tubes in the roof wont do much when it pancakes sideways and crushes you.
 
2big bronco said:
More triangles in the vertical plane and less in the horizontal. All those tubes in the roof wont do much when it pancakes sideways and crushes you.
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I'm not on my computer but here's my shit cell phone interpretation.

The rear D pillars would also have corner bars on the rear side.

I'm also thinking a bar about 6" off the floor level at the B pillar to tie the two together. (not sure if this would add any strength or not.)

There will be one horizontal at the C pillar too behind the top of the rear seat. I can add corner bars there too tied to the c pillar. Either above or below the seat level. I dont want my kids smashin their heads on bars bouncing around so no triangles in the B to C pillar.

I will be tying the B and D pillars into the frame. The A pillar plate legs are already tied into the body mount/ frame.
20230221_191508.jpg
 
Bottom line is that there's only so much you can do to add strength without a vertical X somewhere in the mix. You can make the sides solid, it not going to replace the strength an X gives.

How about the C? Could you stick an X in it?
 
gt1guy said:
Bottom line is that there's only so much you can do to add strength without a vertical X somewhere in the mix. You can make the sides solid, it not going to replace the strength an X gives.

How about the C? Could you stick an X in it?
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I could potentially. But like I said I'm not building it for a high speed rollover. And having watched a stock JK manage a rollover pretty much just fine with the only loss being the windshield, and doors/ tweaked tub.

I can't see the X helping in a high speed forceful roll.

Heck even most track cars only have one brace across the b pillar, not an X.

What I plan on building is 75% more than what that stock JK had.
 
Winchested said:
I could potentially. But like I said I'm not building it for a high speed rollover. And having watched a stock JK manage a rollover pretty much just fine with the only loss being the windshield, and doors/ tweaked tub.

I can't see the X helping in a high speed forceful roll.

Heck even most track cars only have one brace across the b pillar, not an X.

What I plan on building is 75% more than what that stock JK had.
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That'll work too. Build what works for you and your needs. That's all any of us can do.
 
still think a X is needed from drivers side to passenger side at the B pillar. right down to the frame. but just my 2 cents. i can kinda understand but i also cant because i am an over builder. so i am stuck in the way i think sometimes. yikes... :lmao:
 
I originally wanted to model it after the Genright TJ/LJ cage. Thoughts no X's or angles up top just straight tubes. From the V in the windshield all the way back?

Pictures graciously stolen from genright via screenshot.
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I also think you need an x in the b pillar or at the very least 1 daigonal in whichever direction causes you to loose the least sleep. Anything to keep the pancaking to a minimum should you meed it.

Im sure The genrite cage above is decent quality but im also sure they designed a cage that would apeal to the largest market.... and the mall cralwer grocery crowd cant be bothered climbing around a jungle gym.
 
2big bronco said:
I also think you need an x in the b pillar or at the very least 1 daigonal in whichever direction causes you to loose the least sleep. Anything to keep the pancaking to a minimum should you meed it.

Im sure The genrite cage above is decent quality but im also sure they designed a cage that would apeal to the largest market.... and the mall cralwer grocery crowd cant be bothered climbing around a jungle gym.
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They do offer the X for the B pillar.

Ill see what kind of room I have after the initial frame is in to see if a teenager could climb in the back with the top on.
 
What about not angling the upper X bars as much to create more room between seats.

Instead of center of harness bar to top corner B pillar, go from center of harness bar to say 3/4 way up the B pillar.

Not perfect but that would widen the space between bars to climb through and still get some triangulation
 
Winchested said:
I could potentially. But like I said I'm not building it for a high speed rollover.
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If you drive it on the street, the likelihood of a high speed crash is still a lot more than a purpose built crawler.
 
Bebop said:
If you drive it on the street, the likelihood of a high speed crash is still a lot more than a purpose built crawler.
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If that was the case I'd have a full cage in every car I drove... Not the case and if I crash at 80 mph in a Scout. Prob deserve it
 
I'm thinking DOM for the two main A to D pillar bars then the rest the standard tube. This place can only get CREW in 125 wall in 2" said its special order. I'd assume the cold rolled is better than the hot rolled for strength.

Do I do it all in 2" or all the main bars in 2" and gusset everything in 1 3/4?

2 sticks of DOM is over $600 with tax.
 
2" for the A-D bars AND the B, C. D pillars themselves. 1.75" for all the shorter gussets.

If you're just going to tie the C into the tub, make the foot print for it as big as you can. Foot prints should be 3/16".
 
gt1guy said:
2" for the A-D bars AND the B, C. D pillars themselves. 1.75" for all the shorter gussets.

If you're just going to tie the C into the tub, make the foot print for it as big as you can. Foot prints should be 3/16".
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The A, B and D pillars will be tied into the frame. The C currently is bolted through with 4 grade 8 bolts plated above a d below the wheel well.
 
I've always thought the same hrew vs crew, i have no idea on truth of it tho, but my supply is opposite yours. They wouldn't even quote me anything but hrew or DOM. DOM is always a special order for me so I like to do at least 10 sticks total but my 1.75 x .120 price is under 10 per ft.
 
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