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1.75 or 2" 120 wall for cage on this IH Scout II.

Okay got another quote from local supply. Way better pricing so I'll be going with them and I might just do it all in 2" as they have 2" in stock and its cheaper than the 1.75 for standard tube.

Even their DOM 2" price is great $195 a stick.

So I'm going to measure it out today and put my order in and pick up morrow if they have it all.
20230302_104803.jpg
 
My math comes out to around 7 sticks.

4 DOM is plenty and I'm going to get 3 standard tube. All 2".

Might get 1 stick of 1.75" for any gussets or the windshield bars.
 
I ran across a vid that was stating specs for sizing... it reminded me I had the U4 rulebook freshly printed out so I went to check their specs for cages.

Found it very interesting that they do not differ between CREW, DOM, WHR, or CHR. Only differences is OD/wall for weights.

Under 3200 = 1.5x.120 or 1.75x.095
3201 - 4400 = 1.75x.120
Over 4400 = 2x.120

So they're basically saying CREW is good enough.

What exactly is the WHR and WCR?
Welded hot/cold rolled?
 
So here's what I've got done so far. 2 days in. Still need to do the rear most cross bar.

I plan on doing an X at the C pillar. I'll likely just do 10" gussets on the B pillar at the top like I did on the outside. I'll likely do a bar accross the bottom of B pillar up about 10" and do 10" gussets there too.

Not sure how I want to do the X on the B to D pillars. If I do the same 15 degree bend at the outside it's going to be a pain in the Dick to notch.

I think on the A to B pillar I'll do like a Y from the center of A pillar corners of B pillar (where the vertical windshield bars come up.)

Having fun with it but fitting notches is a ton of work.
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20230325_193451.jpg
 
Okay so I'm to the point I need to join the windshield bars vertically and then follow that out to connect the top all the way back.

I Like the Simpleness of no X in the main, Remember not a RACE CAR.

Should I tie the B to C to D pillar together horizontally?

And should I tie the B pillars together with a Bar about 10" up?

See my photos for my Ideas.
20230326_124646.jpg

20230326_124700.jpg
20230326_124733.jpg
20230326_124609.jpg
 
I would tie those in yes. Better than nothing and if there was an impact centered on one mount specifically then those all being tied together would at least spread it out a small percentage to all others. That would worry me less for future body deformation at mounts in an impact.

Also for the upper spreaders what about something like this in yellow?

I know it ain't a race rig but not triangulating up there really does hinder a good bit of rigidity.

20230326_124609.jpg

To keep time and effort down you could just make them straight runs without the bend.
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
I would tie those in yes. Better than nothing and if there was an impact centered on one mount specifically then those all being tied together would at least spread it out a small percentage to all others. That would worry me less for future body deformation at mounts in an impact.

Also for the upper spreaders what about something like this in yellow?

I know it ain't a race rig but not triangulating up there really does hinder a good bit of rigidity.


To keep time and effort down you could just make them straight runs without the bend.
Click to expand...
Only problem with that is I can't open my fridge between the c to D pillar. I mean I can open it 45 degrees but I like beer...

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Maybe I'll just need to make a low profile fridge slide like the over landers haha.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
You need triangulation.....
Click to expand...

Okay you guys win! But quite a few of the buggies I watched today in wrecked gears vids had no triangulation above head. Their bars all run like how I showed.

Got this brace in for the plate style legs.

Do I need that B pillar lower bar? Will it do anything?

And what about the B to C, C to D horizontal bars? Will it add much?

20230326_145609.jpg
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
I would tie those in yes. Better than nothing and if there was an impact centered on one mount specifically then those all being tied together would at least spread it out a small percentage to all others.
Click to expand...

Guess I'm retarded and missed that :idea:
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
I would tie those in yes. Better than nothing and if there was an impact centered on one mount specifically then those all being tied together would at least spread it out a small percentage to all others. That would worry me less for future body deformation at mounts in an impact.

Also for the upper spreaders what about something like this in yellow?

I know it ain't a race rig but not triangulating up there really does hinder a good bit of rigidity.

20230326_124609.jpg

To keep time and effort down you could just make them straight runs without the bend.
Click to expand...
its really splitting hairs i know. and i maybe late to the party.
but the blue lines may give you a few more inches of head clearance. maybe

1680096788390.png
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
I would do the blue version above, and then some x or v bars from the top to the bottom.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

I may end up doing an X at the B pillar yet, I have to measure it out and if the bars cross just above my console I'll do it cause that's how my kids usually climb back there any how.

I am going to go with an X behind the rear seat.

Do the straight bars in your line o gram do much or is the triangulation from corner to corner enough?
 
in my simple mind it creates another triangle. or creates two smaller ones. makes a nice strong node able to resist force side to side and front to back. it would be awesome to see it in a model on solid works or something that could actually measure how much stronger or weaker it is
 
chaplinfj60 said:
in my simple mind it creates another triangle. or creates two smaller ones. makes a nice strong node able to resist force side to side and front to back. it would be awesome to see it in a model on solid works or something that could actually measure how much stronger or weaker it is
Click to expand...

That does make sense from an engineering standpoint.

I need to make a notching transfer tool today.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
do post a pic of what you come up with always interested in what works :beer:
Click to expand...


I'm just making one of these. Already got a bunch of old 1/16" rod at home.

There are a few places I've got the 3D scans to make 3d printed ones for certain sizes. But I don't have access to one (well I do but my bro lives too far away lol)

And this costs me less than $10 to make.
 
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