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08 Tacoma SAS/LS swap

Been lackin, but I am slowly getting back to it with more parts on the way. Exhaust is almost done, front hangers gusseted, made some longer shackles for the front, and got some more motor stuff completed. I'll just shut up and post pics for explanation

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Oh, and made some bed stiffeners :flipoff2:

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I like this build, it's how a Tacoma should be.

On a couple of my builds that no longer have charcoal canisters I would just pull the gas cap apart and drill a tiny hole next to the one way vent then put it back together. That way it breathes both directions but can't get water in it.

As far as the gas going bad from exposure to atmosphere I'm not sold on that theory.

I dig the fact that this is just super simple and clean. No high dollar shit but lots of strength in the right places. It's like my S10 build just way nicer 🤣

What's the plan for the factory dash and electronics like HVAC?
 
Skinny said:
I like this build, it's how a Tacoma should be.

On a couple of my builds that no longer have charcoal canisters I would just pull the gas cap apart and drill a tiny hole next to the one way vent then put it back together. That way it breathes both directions but can't get water in it.

As far as the gas going bad from exposure to atmosphere I'm not sold on that theory.

I dig the fact that this is just super simple and clean. No high dollar shit but lots of strength in the right places. It's like my S10 build just way nicer 🤣

What's the plan for the factory dash and electronics like HVAC?
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Thanks!

I'll consider that about the gas cap hack. My plan so far was to buy a cheap/universal charcoal canister and run the tank vent to it, then just let it vent to the atmosphere. I guess that's all that needs to be done to avoid issues :confused:

This is what I have for the dash. 1/8" aluminum formed and trimmed to fit the contour and shape of the factory cluster. Gauges are as seen, with LED's for the blinkers and for the CEL (not pictured here). For the rest of the engine vitals and speedo, I'm going to run a scangauge 3 in the open spot of my new cluster (covering the two rivets). It will be powdered and then riveted to the factory cluster when complete.

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I don't see why that wouldn't work. Essentially that is how much pre OBDII vehicles are minus the purge valve.

I smell fuel vapor occasionally if I'm working right underneath the filler door buts that's it. I used to run a vent line right off the tank on my Samurai down along the tank. Again rarely would smell it. I wouldn't overthink it.

Nice, can't wait to see more of it. Also looking to see how the brakes work on. I have 99 SuperDuty brakes on all corners and an MC with a 1.25 bore. Wondering if your pedal isn't too hard with the larger setup.
 
Man this is a great build! Your work is top notch. Keep the updates coming please.:bounce::bounce2:
 
Skinny said:
I don't see why that wouldn't work. Essentially that is how much pre OBDII vehicles are minus the purge valve.

I smell fuel vapor occasionally if I'm working right underneath the filler door buts that's it. I used to run a vent line right off the tank on my Samurai down along the tank. Again rarely would smell it. I wouldn't overthink it.

Nice, can't wait to see more of it. Also looking to see how the brakes work on. I have 99 SuperDuty brakes on all corners and an MC with a 1.25 bore. Wondering if your pedal isn't too hard with the larger setup.
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I had this Master cylinder with 05+ super duties and the brakes were incredible. I thought they felt better than my stock 17 f150 brakes. I think the 99-04 front calipers are a tad smaller so we shall see.

Completely forgot to answer the A/C question.... I'm going to get that figured out down the road. The plan is do just get the factory A/C knobs and controls to work seamlessly with the new compressor.... we shall see about that too lol
 
We shall definitely see, I'm hopefully road testing this week.

I don't think a lot of stuff in that truck is networks as much as other brands. Hopefully the HVAC system is simple enough to splice together.
 
Yotacrawlin said:
top notch fab work, definitely a unique build. I was skeptical of leafs up front with the 99-04 being the spring centers are so wide but you made it work. What springs are you using?
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Front springs are Superlift 2.5" springs SLF-01-232-6. They're the 47" front springs from 80's chevy. I kind of already regret not going with a 52" front spring but I think what I have will work fine for my needs.

Ya, getting those springs mounted to the frame was a bitch lol. I see why there are almost no low-height leaf spring 2nd gen tacomas out there
 
It's insane how far the spring perches are and where the diff sits on these axles.

I was watching a YouTube channel where a guy swapped one into a Disco. The pinion was too far out to make a driveshaft work. It hit the frame.

Reason why I narrowed mine. They are definitely funky.

I also couldn't find a single thing on running GM tre's in a Y link configuration. Surprise that there is a ton of info on them and yet absolutely nothing...
 
That’s why most guys are linked with 99 and up we’ll really any Dana 60 front is a wide leaf spring spread unless it’s an old king pin style.

apimpdad said:
Front springs are Superlift 2.5" springs SLF-01-232-6. They're the 47" front springs from 80's chevy. I kind of already regret not going with a 52" front spring but I think what I have will work fine for my needs.

Ya, getting those springs mounted to the frame was a bitch lol. I see why there are almost no low-height leaf spring 2nd gen tacomas out there
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I’ll say yeah 52s probably would have been a better choice especially for flex.
 
Skinny said:
It's insane how far the spring perches are and where the diff sits on these axles.

I was watching a YouTube channel where a guy swapped one into a Disco. The pinion was too far out to make a driveshaft work. It hit the frame.

Reason why I narrowed mine. They are definitely funky.

I also couldn't find a single thing on running GM tre's in a Y link configuration. Surprise that there is a ton of info on them and yet absolutely nothing...
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Are you talking about a GM Y-link off the factory tie rod location? Cause ya, neither could I :laughing:

I had to drill out the factory taper to 1", TIG weld in some GM tapered inserts from TMR, and then run the GM offset TRE's so the tie rod wouldn't hit the diff. But then, no one makes the Y-link TRE with the offset like I needed. So crossover I went
 
I didn't do crossover out of the gate because I didn't know if it would clear the frame with how my ride height is and $$$. I'm sure if it has a ton of bumpsteer it's my next purchase.

Yes absolutely no info on GM steering parts which is amazing. So I'm running a Y setup with all of the standard GM builder parts. It clears the diff cover by a hair. Aftermarket cover will most likely hit.

I am running stock steel rims and fairly narrow tires so I get some serious steering angle out of it. Any larger tire that cuts down on turning radius by hitting the springs first will minimize that diff cover interference.

It was definitely a gamble because I didn't know if it would work. As of now all of my geometry works tit. Just don't know how it goes down the road.
 
apimpdad said:
Front springs are Superlift 2.5" springs SLF-01-232-6. They're the 47" front springs from 80's chevy. I kind of already regret not going with a 52" front spring but I think what I have will work fine for my needs.

Ya, getting those springs mounted to the frame was a bitch lol. I see why there are almost no low-height leaf spring 2nd gen tacomas out there
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Is that a centered or offset pin on those leafs?
 
apimpdad said:
Thanks!

I'll consider that about the gas cap hack. My plan so far was to buy a cheap/universal charcoal canister and run the tank vent to it, then just let it vent to the atmosphere. I guess that's all that needs to be done to avoid issues :confused:

This is what I have for the dash. 1/8" aluminum formed and trimmed to fit the contour and shape

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Paracord? Nice.

Still one of my favorite builds around here.
 
A snug fitting Internal cage would top this build off nicely... Just sayin'..
 
Been quietly working on this thing lately, mostly just boring stuff. I only have Sundays to work on it at the moment. I have been working a job in Miami on weekdays for the last 6 weeks, and looking like it's going to go another 6 weeks.... but it pays well so this thing may actually get done sooner than later. Fingers crossed

-transmission cooler installed
-roof sound deadener installed
-center console and gauge cluster pulled for powder coat
-steering cooler and lines made
-radiator fan shroud completed with nutserts and reinstalled
-transmission pulled for rebuild
-o2 sensor bung welded into drive side collector

Starter, flexplate, Scangauge 3, most brake lines, and charcoal canister are here and awaiting install. The next three big purchases are going to be the Harness (still :D:flipoff2:), torque converter, and rear driveshaft. After that, I can get this thing cranked and then, I will move on to the rear axle rebuild

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BP swap kit is here and 60% installed. VERY happy so far with the kit. Forgot (didn't realize) that I needed a separate fan relay control kit so I got that ordered. I also need a different oil pressure sensor but other than that, everything is there. I still need to run a few more wires for the oil pressure/trans temp/coolant temp sensors so I will loom those and run along the BP harness for a factory look. GM pedal trimmed down and installed, firewall plate riveted in place, and most shit is routed to just about where it needs to be.

I am going to build a nice aluminum air intake box so keep it as sealed off from the engine bay as possible. I even have some Lexan laying around for a clear top....


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Vinyl flooring, center console, cluster, gauges, scangauge, and new radio are in. BP harness is 95% installed, just need to hook up the fuel pump wire and bolt down the ecm and tcm. I decided to upgrade the fuel regulator and filter before I even try to crank it so I went with an Aeromotive adjustable regulator and filter. Running new lines for that currently. Transmission is off getting looked at as well....

New steering wheel is on the list... tried to clean off the bullshit that is on there and now it shows up more lol

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New fuel regulator, filter, and lines front to back installed. Modified the battery box hold down to fit over the Interstate battery as the box is designed for an Odyssey. I also began building the air filter box with some 1/8" aluminum that was laying around. It's getting powdered black like the other stuff and I am going to do a lexan top with my business logo lasered into it... boujee I know, especially for a leaf spring truck :laughing:


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vegask said:
This is so badass. What oil pan are you running?
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Honestly, I have no idea. The guy I had build the engine picked this one for my specific build, but not sure of a brand. I am pretty sure though that its a cheap/knockoff pan
 
Nicely done.

Dumb question… where’s the tcase shifter?
 
rockota said:
Nicely done.

Dumb question… where’s the tcase shifter?
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I haven't ordered it yet. I am going with a JB custom fab cable shifter and installing it in the OEM cupholder spot next to the trans shifter. It's been a backburner item but it's almost time to order that thing
 
apimpdad said:
I haven't ordered it yet. I am going with a JB custom fab cable shifter and installing it in the OEM cupholder spot next to the trans shifter. It's been a backburner item but it's almost time to order that thing
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Cool. This question has been bugging me for a few weeks... :homer::laughing:
 
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