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“Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

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1Sinner said:
Looks killer. We need drift videos from the next event. When you coming to willow?
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Not until it’s below 85*!! lol probably Apple valley speedway in late September will be the next time I’ll be in SoCal to actually drift. I’m taking the car to Hesperia for Josh west to tune it with the new motor.
 
Almost ready. Waiting on some fittings and a wrenches. Apparently my ECU is too smart I moved the fuel pressure sensor and the wiring won’t reach and if it sees zero pressure it won’t even attempt to run. Need to bleed clutch too. There is a lot of one off custom things on this car. My buddy who’s shop I originally built this was nice enough to loan me a lift for a week to finish a bunch of stuff up and get it ready for tuning
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Ok guys I got a small update from Derek today!! Rear bumps are located and pads built. There was no way to get them over the top of the axle with out drenching them in the frame. If it starts really beating the shit out of the upper link hiems I’ll relocate later. But for now this is where they live. Also talked about how to add top truss to reinforce the upper link mounts as I don’t trust the 6- 3/8” grade 8 Allen bolts that are currently the only thing holding them on.
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Ordered the Heater/defrost for the Jeep. This is the smallest lightest and probably more durable one I could find. They make an electric version I bought for the drift car to try since I don’t want hot fluids in the cockpit of that car.
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Ranch Hand said:
I know nothing about this, but is there a significant pressure drop between the first injector and the last on the fuel rails?
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There is a pressure drop but the size of the fuel
Lines and flow of the pump 340LPH. Make it negligible. The file pressure should stay at a constant 58psi. This is a return setup with regulator. It would be more of a concern if I were running a returnless/deadhead setup like OEM. As to how much of a drop I could not tell you.

Currently I am running stock LS3 injectors that have been cleaned flowed and balanced. They are 42lb per hour. I will be at 85% duty cycle at 650hp crank. Which is right where you want to be. If I go to E85 I need to increase the injector size to 60lb.
 
Ranch Hand said:
I know nothing about this, but is there a significant pressure drop between the first injector and the last on the fuel rails?
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You'd have to be doing something crazy for this to be a concern on a N/A engine built from a stocker (I'm not talking about a tall deck / aftermarket block big cubes deal).
 
Bebop said:
You'd have to be doing something crazy for this to be a concern on a N/A engine built from a stocker (I'm not talking about a tall deck / aftermarket block big cubes deal).
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This particular engine is 416” stroked LS3. With them cam and stock heads and intake it should make 630 hp at the crank and I’m hoping for 550Whp through my straight cut gear 4spd dog box. I am running -8 feed to the regulator and -6 from regulator back to the tank. Even boosted on E85 with ID1700 injectors I don’t think it would be noticeable.
 
Rockchump said:
This particular engine is 416” stroked LS3. With them cam and stock heads and intake it should make 630 hp at the crank and I’m hoping for 550Whp through my straight cut gear 4spd dog box. I am running -8 feed to the regulator and -6 from regulator back to the tank. Even boosted on E85 with ID1700 injectors I don’t think it would be noticeable.
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You got though flow rails. I was talking about dead headed ones.
I'm helping an Ultra4 team and they're running a 700hp LSX with factory rail without any issues.

IMO Boost makes the DeltaP a lot more critical than N/A thus leading to low pressure zones in dead head rails.
 
I really liked these pedals for a few reasons. The way it pivots allows heel pressure and stability while actuating the throttle. It has a built in return spring so I am not relying on the DBW pedals! It has a toe hook incase all those fail and the dual DBW pedals will mount on the toe hook too.
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Buddy just happened to be sell a dual DBW throttle pedal setup with spacers and link bar ready to go. We will have to make some modifications but it was a screaming good deal. Basically one is always plugged in the other has a dummy plug to keep dirt and debris out and if there is a pedal failure you just swap plugs and keep rolling. I don’t wan to hear it about how much you like cable and reliability blah blah blah. lol. I love the DBW in my drift car and these pedals came out a 3x KOH kings car when he changed motor package from LS to big block Ford ! :flipoff2:
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