Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Half-Burnt Swiss 404.
- Thread starter Muckin_Slusher
- Start date
Czechsix
Polluting Alaska in a 1963 Haflinger 700AP.
Well, that sucks. Wiring issue?
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #3
House/carport fire at a cottage. This one had just been rebuilt by mercedes in Gaganeau then was surplused. It was at a retired guy's cottage.
The rear canvas was in the detached garage (so not burnt). Unfortunately, the complete set of spare tires/wheels were in the box and burnt as well.
Note: These pics are from 2004. I'm in competition with Sceep.
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Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #4
Fast forward to 2007:
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- #5
Damn that looks like it's in decent shape for being in a fire.House/carport fire at a cottage. This one had just been rebuilt by mercedes in Gaganeau then was surplused. It was at a retired guy's cottage.
The rear canvas was in the detached garage (so not burnt). Unfortunately, the complete set of spare tires/wheels were in the box and burnt as well.
Note: These pics are from 2004. I'm in competition with Sceep.
.... and all this time I thought you just had a Burnt Orange 404 .... but like ... painted ... not burnt
We should get a progress competition going with you and Sceep ....
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #6
25 year old me taking it out for it's first test drive to prove it was worth fixing properly.
Gotta love having the steering column, brake and clutch mounted directly to the frame. I drove it a bunch of times that summer, including in town on roads. Cops only pulled me over once. Red triangle on the back of my "prospecting buggy" so I was good to go.
Gotta love having the steering column, brake and clutch mounted directly to the frame. I drove it a bunch of times that summer, including in town on roads. Cops only pulled me over once. Red triangle on the back of my "prospecting buggy" so I was good to go.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #7
Sandblasted body, painted, fabbed aluminum checkerplate roof.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #8
The children approve.
I couldn't get any thing done working out of a shed and with two little ones.
I couldn't get any thing done working out of a shed and with two little ones.
2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
Cute kids!
Nice truck too.
Nice truck too.
- Moderator
- #10
I am 100% in this situation :singletear:
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #11
This is part of my pile of junk that I'm building from.
Some of it is 404 specific, lots of it is what I had laying around, or bought for this ****show.
Some of it is 404 specific, lots of it is what I had laying around, or bought for this ****show.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #12
Replacing the frame mounted positive junction post with a blue sea part. Of course the bolt patterns are different.
No problem, I've got this piece of wear plastic I found on the road.
No problem, I've got this piece of wear plastic I found on the road.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #13
milled it flat on a tablesaw then drilled two bolt patterns, recessed two of the bolt heads, one on either side.
Then I realized I ****ed it up so I had to make a second one.
Then I realized I ****ed it up so I had to make a second one.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #14
Didn't want to use the cole hersee switch I had since it had a stupid UL sticker that said it was only good for 20 amps at 12 volts (see thread:Electrical Switch Ratings) , so I blasted the stock master disconnect hole out for a blue sea systems one.
I've since learned about failures of this switch, so I contacted them about it. There's a reinforcement ring available. Waiting to hear back.
I also have to make a mounting plate so I can use all four mounting holes.
I've since learned about failures of this switch, so I contacted them about it. There's a reinforcement ring available. Waiting to hear back.
I also have to make a mounting plate so I can use all four mounting holes.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #15
Steering wheel was flopping around, missing a bushing or something near the top of the column. Couldn't find a part online, or a picture so I made what I guess used to be there before the fire.
Spun out the column and dropped a bunch of burnt junk into the steering box bearing.
Seems like there should be a seal or something here to prevent steering column junk from ending up in the box...but I don't see it in the exploded view parts diagrams.
Cleaned the junk out as best I could, don't think it will hurt anything as it's mostly burnt rubber and ash, should come out with oil changes.
Last pic is the bushing holder.
Spun out the column and dropped a bunch of burnt junk into the steering box bearing.
Seems like there should be a seal or something here to prevent steering column junk from ending up in the box...but I don't see it in the exploded view parts diagrams.
Cleaned the junk out as best I could, don't think it will hurt anything as it's mostly burnt rubber and ash, should come out with oil changes.
Last pic is the bushing holder.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #16
Finally a use for some genuine Teflon™ I brought home from work.
I had to thin it out some so I used a new flapwheel on a grinder. The wheel barely touched this stuff.
Finished product works great!
I had to thin it out some so I used a new flapwheel on a grinder. The wheel barely touched this stuff.
Finished product works great!
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #17
Got some third row seats from an expedition I think.
They seem to fit real nice and it's a plus that they can fold flat to make access behind them easier.
Welded some mounts and powdercoated.
Unfortunately I will lose access to the glove box under the passenger seat. It also sucks that I won't be able to yank the seats out for camping.
They seem to fit real nice and it's a plus that they can fold flat to make access behind them easier.
Welded some mounts and powdercoated.
Unfortunately I will lose access to the glove box under the passenger seat. It also sucks that I won't be able to yank the seats out for camping.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #18
Had the stock oil-bath filter assembly powdercoated.
Today I yanked both rubber seals and washed out all the stainless-steel wool in old gasoline. Seems cleaner than it was.
Today I yanked both rubber seals and washed out all the stainless-steel wool in old gasoline. Seems cleaner than it was.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #19
Stock oil pressure gauge fitting on the filter housing is some super-oddball pipe fitting that uses straight metric threads.
I took a JIC male-male fitting and lathed off the taper, then tapped inside the matching metric threads.
Sealed with an annealed copper washer made from plumbing pipe.
I took a JIC male-male fitting and lathed off the taper, then tapped inside the matching metric threads.
Sealed with an annealed copper washer made from plumbing pipe.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #20
Original Swiss Wiring diagram, not that it really matters.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #21
Fuse panel mounted and thomas&betts ty-rap bolt on thingies.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #22
Doing battery cables the ****ing hard way (vise doesn't have enough jam to squeeze the die).
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #23
Today I picked up engine oil, coolant, distilled water and two batteries.
Yanked the spark plugs and added penetrating oil to the pistons. Dumped a liter of engine oil on the valve train and cranked it over some.
I have amazing spark without a ballast resistor, but the ignitor won't live long at full voltage. I think I need about 18 volts.
Don't have a stock ballast resistor, but I have two from Pinzgauers and one from a dodge car. The dodge car is 6 ohms and only gives me about 6 volts at the coil (not enough).
The Pinz resistor gives me a bit more voltage, but not enough to have spark.
I paralleled up the two Pinz resistors (making 2.1 ohms) and I'm getting 15 volts at the coil. This is only with the batteries connected (no alternator) so when the alternator is on I should have a few more volts and be right around the target 18 volts.
So, my question is should I leave the two resistors in parallel, or snip the resistor wire on one in half?
I'm thinking I should snip the wire as it will leave me with a resistor for my spare parts. I'm not sure if this will make the wire heat up too much and burn out.
Yanked the spark plugs and added penetrating oil to the pistons. Dumped a liter of engine oil on the valve train and cranked it over some.
I have amazing spark without a ballast resistor, but the ignitor won't live long at full voltage. I think I need about 18 volts.
Don't have a stock ballast resistor, but I have two from Pinzgauers and one from a dodge car. The dodge car is 6 ohms and only gives me about 6 volts at the coil (not enough).
The Pinz resistor gives me a bit more voltage, but not enough to have spark.
I paralleled up the two Pinz resistors (making 2.1 ohms) and I'm getting 15 volts at the coil. This is only with the batteries connected (no alternator) so when the alternator is on I should have a few more volts and be right around the target 18 volts.
So, my question is should I leave the two resistors in parallel, or snip the resistor wire on one in half?
I'm thinking I should snip the wire as it will leave me with a resistor for my spare parts. I'm not sure if this will make the wire heat up too much and burn out.
- Moderator
- #24
Are you leaving it 24v or going 12?
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #25
24. I've got a 24 volt warn MOSSFET controller and two 24v HMMWV M12 winches and a plan to operate them both from same controller.
Also have a 90 amp one wire 24v alternator from a EJC scoop.
I still have to make a plan for 12 volt stuff (probably a 24-to-12 volt power supply).
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #27
Finished swearing and soldering the coolant reservoir back together.
Test, bubbles, dry, solder, cool, test, bubbles somewhere else, dry, solder, cool, test, bubbles at the first place, dry, solder, cool, test, more bubbles, dry, solder, cool, test, still bubbles,.........................................................****. Life's hard.
Testing involved being an octopus and wrestling this ****ing thing into a 5 gallon pail while trying to cap the big tube with one hand and pressurizing with a blowgun in the other hand.
Then try and see where all the bubbles are coming from.
Then once it passed the leak test, I did a proper coolant system test with a rubber dingus and hand pump to test the cap. It would bleed pressure down to almost nothing.
This style cap seals at two places (inner and outer) It didn't seem to be touching the inner one at all so I made a rubber washer to bridge the gap. Then it tested perfectly at 0.4 BAR (6 psi).
Now that I think about it, I'm going to check if I can use a thinner upper gasket which might allow better lower contact.
Test, bubbles, dry, solder, cool, test, bubbles somewhere else, dry, solder, cool, test, bubbles at the first place, dry, solder, cool, test, more bubbles, dry, solder, cool, test, still bubbles,.........................................................****. Life's hard.
Testing involved being an octopus and wrestling this ****ing thing into a 5 gallon pail while trying to cap the big tube with one hand and pressurizing with a blowgun in the other hand.
Then try and see where all the bubbles are coming from.
Then once it passed the leak test, I did a proper coolant system test with a rubber dingus and hand pump to test the cap. It would bleed pressure down to almost nothing.
This style cap seals at two places (inner and outer) It didn't seem to be touching the inner one at all so I made a rubber washer to bridge the gap. Then it tested perfectly at 0.4 BAR (6 psi).
Now that I think about it, I'm going to check if I can use a thinner upper gasket which might allow better lower contact.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #28
Back into the ignition stuff.
I'm trying to make my pertronix coil (flamethrower 3.0 ohms) and ignitor happy with 17-21 volts.
The ballast resistors I have on hand are a 6 ohm from a dodge car I think, as well as two 4 ohm resistors that I got on ebay, stating they were original unimog/pinz resistors.
Starting with 25 volts from the batteries, and using the 6 ohm resistor, I'm getting about 9 volts out---------too low.
Again, 25 volts and using one 4 ohm resistor I'm getting 11 volts---------still too low.
I paralleled the two 4 ohms to get 2 ohms, and with that I have 15 volts--------still too low, but will make a weak spark.
By my math, I need about a 1.1 ohm ballast resistor to get about 19 volts and make everything happy.
That resistor would have to be about a 200 watt. I'm finding resistors in that range for dodge cars, but no wattage listed, and since they were 12 volt cars, I doubt they'd last (double the wattage).
Can someone disconnect one lead off their ballast resistor and check it's resistance? I'd like to see what it should be.
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I'm trying to make my pertronix coil (flamethrower 3.0 ohms) and ignitor happy with 17-21 volts.
The ballast resistors I have on hand are a 6 ohm from a dodge car I think, as well as two 4 ohm resistors that I got on ebay, stating they were original unimog/pinz resistors.
Starting with 25 volts from the batteries, and using the 6 ohm resistor, I'm getting about 9 volts out---------too low.
Again, 25 volts and using one 4 ohm resistor I'm getting 11 volts---------still too low.
I paralleled the two 4 ohms to get 2 ohms, and with that I have 15 volts--------still too low, but will make a weak spark.
By my math, I need about a 1.1 ohm ballast resistor to get about 19 volts and make everything happy.
That resistor would have to be about a 200 watt. I'm finding resistors in that range for dodge cars, but no wattage listed, and since they were 12 volt cars, I doubt they'd last (double the wattage).
Can someone disconnect one lead off their ballast resistor and check it's resistance? I'd like to see what it should be.
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Projectjunkie
Whatever
Why not run 12v ignition and 24v starter? There's gotta be a doohickey to do that
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, I'm sure there is, but I'm pretty deep into the 24 volt stuff now to let a little resistor change my path.
