Build Vulcan 8 x 8

CarterKraft said:
I bet you screamed in joy when you saw that **** :lmao:
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Weird watching Florida man stuff and noticing familiar Florida man stuff from this site. I was 99% sure it was the one he has based on the quick side glimpse I got of it in the video. It looked just like it did in the first few pictures in this thread so I thought it was a good possibility. And if it wasn't the one WaterH owned, I figured it being in Florida up his way and them naming the company in the video that maybe he could work a deal and get his hands on that one too.

I impressed myself by knowing what it was. :laughing:
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
It’s a 2 stroke Detroit. They all need either to start when it gets cold. I wouldn’t worry about it. :flipoff2:

My dozer that has a 6v71 in it came with an either bottle plumbed into the intake from the factory . :lmao:
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I have a ether bottle holder if WaterH wants it, would need a line to feed the intake (it had 1/8" plastic line on it) and some way to pull the lever on the valve.

Aaron Z
 
So I finally got the pedal throttle hooked up.

IMG_2286.jpeg


I had to put a big spring on it to overcome the drag in the system. It’s a lot heavier to push than a car pedal. I had to make the spring easy to unhook because sometimes I need to “throttle up” when I’m outside the cab. Example, the hydraulic wheel lifts don’t work at idle. Also, the alternator pulley is too big and it doesn’t charge unless I’m off idle.
 
So I worked on the Vulcan today. It was one of those “two steps back” kind of days. Couldn’t start it for nothing. After a lot of checking I figured the fuel pump quit. Most everything on this truck is 30+ years old. The fuel pump is maybe 4 years old and has probably 8 hours of run time.

IMG_2462.jpeg


It’s always fun to go to the parts store and they say “model, make and year”.

Anyways, I got the new pump on and now I have fuel getting to the injection pump. But it still wouldn’t start.
 
I guess I’ll do an update even though I’ve hardly touched the thing.

I was scanning market place when I came across some tires that match the Vulcan. I have two tires on it that just keep going flat. It takes a couple weeks, but still I’m not working on it much so a couple weeks goes by like “snap”. Everytime I want to work on it, the first thing I have to do is pump them up. One of them always seems to go off the bead, so it’s an extra PITA. (I have to use starter fluid to pop it on.

There’s also one tire that I got with a wheel that was a differnt size and it always bugged my OCD.

The tires were $30 apiece and I told the guy I’ll take 3. He said take all 5. Got em home and proceeded to swap the two flat tires and the off size tire. I also changed one of the particularly cracked up tires. (Even though it still held air) I kept one tire to swap in the future if one of the other tires gives out.

Of interest, I had two different kinds of “run flats” in the wheels.

A rubber one.

IMG_2734.jpeg


The other one was aluminum or magnesium.

IMG_2743.jpeg


The metal one looks much easier to install. I left them both out for now. In a SHTF scenario I might want bulletproof tires, so I’ll keep them.

Anyways, now I have eight tires that hold air.

IMG_2739.jpeg


The date codes on these tires were 09’. I’ve heard there’s a recommendation to not use tires after they get old. I’m not sure if 16 years is a problem, but the tires that I took off were 77’. So I guess that’s still an up grade.
 
Its been a LONG time but I thought you almost had to run the beadlocks if you wanted to get anywhere near a decent pressure due to the lack of any safety beads.
 
Sceep said:
Its been a LONG time but I thought you almost had to run the beadlocks if you wanted to get anywhere near a decent pressure due to the lack of any safety beads.
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i seem to remember this as well. i used the PVC inserts from TrailWorthy Fab back in the day
 
The mag insert is a run flat. The rubber one is just an inner beadlock.
That's the style the 5 ton wheels I have use. I had 6 tires (the older sorta Ag "ish" tread) that came with them,
No idea the easy way to install. I used a flatbed bumper and skid steer to pull them out.
 
Sceep said:
Its been a LONG time but I thought you almost had to run the beadlocks if you wanted to get anywhere near a decent pressure due to the lack of any safety beads.
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My Bobcat uses 16.5 wheels (I think they still do). If a tire goes flat, it almost comes off the bead by itself. And is a royal bitch to reseat.
 
Sceep said:
I had the beadlock only rubber ones on my buggy.

If you look closely, his appears to be the runflat version though.

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My apologies. I was visualizing like the ones I have, but I see that now in the pic.
 
So the Vulcan is on hold right now, but something else similar followed me home.

IMG_3154.jpeg


My wife’s trucks tailgate didn’t work with my trailer Jack. So I clearanced it.

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Anyways, I didn’t feel like making a separate build thread for this baby Vulcan, so I will show my trials and tribulations here. First problem was over an hour cleaning out leaves.


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So this was supposed to be “ran when parked”. It appeared to be ran until chain broke and locked up front wheel.

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Was a PITA to get the chain out. Broke in two places. (It’s lying on the right fender.

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I got an extra motor. Both are supposed to run. Just the starters are screwed.

IMG_3161.jpeg


That’s as far as I got. More to come.
 
WaterH said:
Actually, it’s a “Max II”. They are the bastard stepchild of the Argo.
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Same ride quality. I rode in an Argo when I was about 10. I thought it was rough then. Now I just look at them and my back starts to hurt.
 
Sceep said:
this'll make the rest of ya hurt... :laughing:

Synched to the good stuff so you dont have to suffer through WD.
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting what I wnt to do has already been done?


Anyways, the motor on the machine had the teeth stripped off the starter. The pull starter would not engage at all. The extra motor didn’t have a pull starter. To my surprise, it did have an electric starter. I put 12 volts to it and it spun the motor. The key switch was forked, but with a little extra wires and a can of either, I got it to fire up.

IMG_3167.jpeg


it never ran on its own gas, but I figure some carb cleaning is in order for that. In any case, I know I have a motor if I need it.

Next, I pulled the starter off the extra motor. This was ridiculous hard because there’s a bolt you can’t get to with the starter in place. (The left bolt in the pic)

IMG_3168.jpeg


The teeth that were stripped were made of plastic. The only good thing I can say about that is the ring gear teeth were OK. I’m not putting the left bolt back in, so I’m going to figure out something else. I think an Allen head or a Philips might work, but of course, I don’t have a 5/16 fine thread Allen or Phillips bolt. I’ll make a trip to the hardware store.
 
I got some Allen head bolts and mounted the starter. Then I did some wiring to get it ready to start. While I was doing this, some magic smoke came out of the engine. A lot of smoke. I knew I forked something, but I figured I would spin the starter anyways. It wouldn’t throw out the gear.

It worked on the other engine, so I did some more investigating. Here the lower shroud was not attached and was blocking the starter. Since I knew I burnt something, I took apart the whole shroud. It mostly fell apart. So I had to take apart the other engine shroud just to see how it went. Got it mounted and I changed one of the coils from that engine also. (It was what got burnt)

After all this, I spun the engine and squirted some gas and it started for a few seconds. Another hour of cleaning the fuel tank and lines and carb. It fired up and ran for a few minutes. It didn’t run perticulerly good, but ran. I reved it up and it ran better, but when I let off, it quit. After I get the shroud back on I will try again tomorrow. I need to get an air cleaner.

So, the question now is I don’t see anything that charges the battery. Would they not have something for that. I actually have this same engine on a couple lawn mowers. One I always use the pull starter. The zero turn appears to charge, but I havnt really looked in to it.
 
I got the motor running good. I held the brake and shifted in to forward. The cart didn’t move. I tapped the throttle and the cart jumped. Ran into my tool box and the HEMTT. Brakes need adjusting. Anyways, it did move on its own power.


There is a wire that comes off each coil. If I touch the two wires to ground, the motor quits. If I touch the two wires to each other, the motor quits. Does that make sense? Is there some way to charge the battery with those wires?
 
Not super familiar with the Briggs Vanguard, but this class of engine usually have a way of charging a battery. Often it's an alternator coil behind the flywheel. A quick google for a service manual showed there are several different alternator versions, so I think you need find a service manual for your engine (might be https://mudbuddy.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/vanguard-repair-manual.pdf) and figure out what the wires are.

Stop randomly hooking them up to each other or ground or you may fry something.
 
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